5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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So I want to do a BBK swap on my 5 gen Maxima and I wanted to know what are some good performance rotors and pads something that will hold up pretty well but not to expensive. I'm using a 6-6.5 gen setup. Any suggestions.
I was more looking for slotted or drilled rotors to give the car I really nice look. By the way which one's better slotted or drilled. Thxs for the info mtrai760
I'm looking for some good pads and rotors to get for my car not for track use just for everyday driving. I'm definitly going with some Hawk pads and now all I need is the rotors. I'm really looking for some performance rotors not blank rotors. I'm going to look into EBC and Rotor Pros. Thxs for da info everyone.
Last edited by jerseyboy83; 09-05-2009 at 11:30 PM.
Use blanks. Drilled rotors WILL crack. It's just a matter of time. Slotted rotors will add extra vibration and act like cheese graters on your brake pads. I run 4 piston willwood calipers up front with 12.6" rotors, blank rotors. I stop on a dime every time, be it from 25mph or from 100, and I can do it over and over and over again.
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98 SE - VQ35
2k SE - Stock... pretty much
Boost, juice, conversions, been there, done that.
^^I agree, I ran slotted and hated them, not only that...when they get warped, you cant turn them (at least I couldnt find anyone to do it). I got my 12.6 coated blanks from rotorpros.
Use blanks. Drilled rotors WILL crack. It's just a matter of time. Slotted rotors will add extra vibration and act like cheese graters on your brake pads. I run 4 piston willwood calipers up front with 12.6" rotors, blank rotors. I stop on a dime every time, be it from 25mph or from 100, and I can do it over and over and over again.
Wow!! So when are mine expected to crack? I got Stillen X-drilled 12.6" Oems on the front and X-drilled Oems on the rear of my 03 A/T Maxima...
the fronts have been installed for 6 yrs, on it's 2nd set of Hawk Pads(HPS)! The rears are 9 yrs old (off my 00) and still on there 1st set of HPS pads...So I'm curious when they're suppose to crack? Most ppl cracks due to the holes not being raduis'd/chamfered or just cheap a$$ aftermarket crap! You've been listening to ppl running thier mouths and not running that setup yourself, so please speak from your personal experience. If you did have some crack on your ride, think about where you bought them from next! For street spirited driving X-drilled will win hands down, it handles wet condtions better than slotted...Slotted is more durable in track racing conditions...So if you've had some x-drilled crack you were really abusing the hell out of them on a track. To prevent cracking radii the holes and cryo treat them...
Wow!! So when are mine expected to crack? I got Stillen X-drilled 12.6" Oems on the front and X-drilled Oems on the rear of my 03 A/T Maxima...
the fronts have been installed for 6 yrs, on it's 2nd set of Hawk Pads(HPS)! The rears are 9 yrs old (off my 00) and still on there 1st set of HPS pads...So I'm curious when they're suppose to crack? Most ppl cracks due to the holes not being raduis'd/chamfered or just cheap a$$ aftermarket crap! You've been listening to ppl running thier mouths and not running that setup yourself, so please speak from your personal experience. If you did have some crack on your ride, think about where you bought them from next! For street spirited driving X-drilled will win hands down, it handles wet condtions better than slotted...Slotted is more durable in track racing conditions...So if you've had some x-drilled crack you were really abusing the hell out of them on a track. To prevent cracking radii the holes and cryo treat them...
Go back and read the original post. He want's rotors and pads that are NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. Stealin charges quite a lot for their rotors. The average cross drilled rotor that you will find is not chamfered, made from a Chinese brand, and crack without warning. I don't go by what I hear, I have seen it several times MYSELF. Even on supposed Brembo cross drilled rotors (Brembo doesn't drill rotors BTW, the only rotors they offer of this style have the holes cast into them when they are originally poured).
You say that cross drilled rotors win hands down? Why? The original purpose of cross drilling was to provide venting for built up gasses produced by the brake pads. Guess what? That is not a problem anymore, modern pads do not outgas. So what is the point of running them? Purely astetics.
If your original rear pads are 9 years old, you either A: Don't drive your car very hard, or B: Don't put any miles on your car. Either one would explain why YOU have not had any problems with cracking rotors. That does not mean that it is not a common problem.
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98 SE - VQ35
2k SE - Stock... pretty much
Boost, juice, conversions, been there, done that.
Go back and read the original post. He want's rotors and pads that are NOT TOO EXPENSIVE. Stealin charges quite a lot for their rotors. The average cross drilled rotor that you will find is not chamfered, made from a Chinese brand, and crack without warning. I don't go by what I hear, I have seen it several times MYSELF. Even on supposed Brembo cross drilled rotors (Brembo doesn't drill rotors BTW, the only rotors they offer of this style have the holes cast into them when they are originally poured).
You say that cross drilled rotors win hands down? Why? The original purpose of cross drilling was to provide venting for built up gasses produced by the brake pads. Guess what? That is not a problem anymore, modern pads do not outgas. So what is the point of running them? Purely astetics.
If your original rear pads are 9 years old, you either A: Don't drive your car very hard, or B: Don't put any miles on your car. Either one would explain why YOU have not had any problems with cracking rotors. That does not mean that it is not a common problem.
I drive the car quite alot! 100K and i'm the original freakin owner! You read half ***...everything I stated, you repeat only half of what I stated! First of all I never said x-drilled never crack....I never said the rear pads were 9 yrs old the x-drilled rotors are! The Hawk Hps rears are 6 yrs to be exact ( they didn't make the rears in 00) which I originally never specified!
You assumed! Yes crossdrilled do provide a path for the gas that produced even in new pads to exit and not form a wedge between the rotor and pad ( like hydroplaning except with hot gases). Never said X-drilled
wins hands down...I said x-drilled rotors win hands down in spirited street driving especially in wet conditions, but on the track slotted was more durable in racing conditions! Again if you get what you pay for and that picture you just posted isn't a front rotor, it's a rear nonvented (IF FROM A MAXIMA!!!) So thoruoghly next time and tell your buddy about my high mileage uncracked front and rear rotors. As far as beating the crap out of my car it gets it's share now and then but I'm into driving it like a law obiding citizen should! Even though my original test afer installing the 12.6" stillen front rotors was to performs (3) 130mph-0 runs and if they did warp to upgrade to Brembo Gran Turismo's brakes...well it turned out great and they're still in service 6 yrs later on my 100K mile plus 03!
Obviously your convinced your rotors are the greatest thing since slice bread, good for you. That still does not change the fact that drilled rotors can and do crack, quite a bit more frequently than a blank rotor ever will.
You paid extra money to have holes in your rotors for visual aesthetics only. They ARE NOT providing you any increased stopping power. Helps in the rain? By what, giving that water that cannot stay on your rotors anyway someplace to go? How long does water last on a 500 degree surface anyway?
I've read plenty of technical articles on the subject and upgraded many car's brake systems....you've got your opinion, I've got mine.... No my Stillen X-drilled 6th Gen rotors are practical and reliable for spirited street performance, they're not the best brakes in the world, but they've worked for 6 years and 100,000 miles, no need for AP's nor Brembo Gran Turismo's unless I'm gonna do time attack on a road coarse. So grow up and get some knowledge between those ears and behind those empty eyes and you'll one day convince someone of your B.S. and that micronic thought machine
of yours!
So why don't you read that article cause this is a street car not a track car for the 4th time!!!!!!
I'm using RTP zinc coated blanks and Hawk HPS pads and like the set up so far.
Btw, to the OP, just because rotors are blanks doesn't mean they aren't performance oriented, besides, you said it was street driving anyway, so most blanks are more than enough for that purpose.
Thxs everyone for the info. I decided to go with some Rotor Pros and Hawks pads can't wait until I get them and put them on. Once again thxs a lot everyone for da info.
A friend of mine had someone change his front disc brake pads. After the change there was a scraping noise from both sides. I looked at the manual and it looks like the person may have flip flopped the inner and outer pads. I swapped the pads and the noise is 90% better but the front right still has a slight scrapping noise. Should the wear sensor be on the inside pad or the outer pad? I put the pad with the wear sensor on the inside because the shim retainer clip fit on that side and that is how it appears to me looking at the diagram in the manual.
Let me know your thoughts on this, thanks, Rich
Does anyone know the part number to the brembo blanks? I am interested in them, but so far I haven't had any solid answer on which is the one 5th gen uses? are they any bigger? Because I found some blanks from tirerack but they seem to be a direct replacement. Is that the one that everyone is talking about?
I was more looking for slotted or drilled rotors to give the car I really nice look. By the way which one's better slotted or drilled. Thxs for the info mtrai760
you are going to spend more money on something that looks good...even if it doesnt perform as well
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