5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Ok, so my front brake pads started making that scraping noise while driving and the squeaking while backing up a few days ago. I ordered some new Akebono Street Performance pads today and they should be here by Monday or Tuesday. My question is: How long do I have before the pads start cutting into the rotors? I'm trying to drive the car as little as possible, but I got stuff to do. Since it only started making noise a few days ago, you think I'll be safe driving normally until Tuesday of next week?
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2003 6 speed TE
Looks: Superwhite LEDs Inside Smoked Side Markers
Performance: Stillen Intake with Custom MAF-TB Pipe, NWP Phenolic Intake Spacers, NWP Block Off Plate, Cattman Gen 3 Headers, Custom 3" Magnaflow Cat-back Exhaust
Suspension: Tokico Illumina Struts, Ebay FSTB, Progress RSB
you usually have about 10% of the pad left so i would say you have 3-5k miles before you are cutting it close.
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00' SE 5 Speed/ Cattman Muffler/ Warpspeed Y/ 17º advance/ 5% tint all around/ 6000K HID's all around/ Hawk HPS's all around/ FSTB/ Alpine HU/ Alpine Type R speakers
If you're hearing them now, the odds are your rotors aren't exactly glass-smooth anyway. Relax. You'll be fine waiting a few days.
Now, if it looks like this (above)... well, then you're got problems
I had a friend who wouldn't go get her front brakes changed and so i told her i would change them because i could tell they were making a terrible metal on metal sound and the rotor was being worn away. As i pulled her car into my driveway the rotor was down to the veins and tore the backing to the pad away and then tore the cylinder out of the caliper destroying the caliper causing they system to lose all pressure. I was able to stop it with the e-brake but it could have been a major disaster if it happened out on the road
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00' SE 5 Speed/ Cattman Muffler/ Warpspeed Y/ 17º advance/ 5% tint all around/ 6000K HID's all around/ Hawk HPS's all around/ FSTB/ Alpine HU/ Alpine Type R speakers
If you're hearing them now, the odds are your rotors aren't exactly glass-smooth anyway. Relax. You'll be fine waiting a few days... weeks, even.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feldman
you usually have about 10% of the pad left so i would say you have 3-5k miles before you are cutting it close.
ok cool, so i still got a little time.. just wanted to make sure.. i would like to get some drilled rotors anyway, but now my money needs to go other places.. thanx fellas!
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2003 6 speed TE
Looks: Superwhite LEDs Inside Smoked Side Markers
Performance: Stillen Intake with Custom MAF-TB Pipe, NWP Phenolic Intake Spacers, NWP Block Off Plate, Cattman Gen 3 Headers, Custom 3" Magnaflow Cat-back Exhaust
Suspension: Tokico Illumina Struts, Ebay FSTB, Progress RSB
ok cool, so i still got a little time.. just wanted to make sure.. i would like to get some drilled rotors anyway, but now my money needs to go other places.. thanx fellas!
I would steer clear of cross drilled rotors, they are prone to cracking. slotted rotors achieve the same effect and are much more reliable
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00' SE 5 Speed/ Cattman Muffler/ Warpspeed Y/ 17º advance/ 5% tint all around/ 6000K HID's all around/ Hawk HPS's all around/ FSTB/ Alpine HU/ Alpine Type R speakers
my breakes squeak/rub slightly on the driver's front left side. When I tap the breaks the noise goes away then few seconds later they'll make noise, even when driving at 60+ mph (they make worse sound when I drive at low speed) the noise comes back everyonce in a while enough to be annoying.... any tips as to what could be wrong.?
my breakes squeak/rub slightly on the driver's front left side. When I tap the breaks the noise goes away then few seconds later they'll make noise, even when driving at 60+ mph (they make worse sound when I drive at low speed) the noise comes back everyonce in a while enough to be annoying.... any tips as to what could be wrong.?
Seriously... you really have to ask? Obviously your brakes aren't failing, because you can stop the car. But they're telling you something with that noise. There's likely nothing "wrong" per se, one or more of your 4 corners are wearing out is all. Simple.
Go get your brakes serviced. Stay away from the chain-stores (i.e. Midas). Network your area to find a reputable mechanic. Make some calls to your favorite Street-Pro shops and ask for their recommendations on a good mechanic.
Do not purchase Nissan brake parts from your dealership. OEM rotors/pads are not designed well for the 5th gen Maxima. It got vastly better with the 6th gen.
If you don't want to do the research, just by the parts from Tirerack, bring them to your new-best-friend Mechanic, and be done with it.
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NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
Seriously... you really have to ask? Obviously your brakes aren't failing, because you can stop the car. But they're telling you something with that noise. There's likely nothing "wrong" per se, one or more of your 4 corners are wearing out is all. Simple.
Go get your brakes serviced. Stay away from the chain-stores (i.e. Midas). Network your area to find a reputable mechanic. Make some calls to your favorite Street-Pro shops and ask for their recommendations on a good mechanic.
Do not purchase Nissan brake parts from your dealership. OEM rotors/pads are not designed well for the 5th gen Maxima. It got vastly better with the 6th gen.
If you don't want to do the research, just by the parts from Tirerack, bring them to your new-best-friend Mechanic, and be done with it.
funny you mentioned Midas I made an appointment there for tomorrow morning to have my muffler/exhaust pipe checked since its rattles... the guy said that maximas have issues since the pipes are covered with aluminum *don't know the proper term* and he'll take a look at it. Also I told him about my breaks... I'll have him take a look if its free Any reason why to stay away from chains??? I'm a noob when it come to fixing cars, but I know how to change oil.
Its hard to find a good mechanic ... I guess I'll have to ask around at auto part stores... I got ripped off a once before on my 1st car and don't have a good machanic. I do my synthetic oil changes at the Nissan Stealership since they do the 20 point inspection with an oil change. I can't afford the stealership prices for maintainence.
BTW I know this guy, friend of friends... but I don't trust him enough. He's was a mechanic at a Honda dealership for few yrs got fired after he told one of his customers that the breaks were still good so she left and later that day/week her breaks failed so he got fired since she filed a complaint to the dealership. I beleive he replaced 2 of my friends breaks but I'm still iffy to go ask him and if I do ask and he offers to help me install them should I pay him or what...
When I bought the car 3 yrs ago on Oct 30th 2006 with 59,500 miles the dealer replaced the front rotors and pads not sure about the back ones but last yar when I went to nissan for an oil change the technician checked my breaks and he said they were 1/3 used so I prolly had 75K on odo, rite now I have 87,500 and like you said the top of the rotors are getting kinda scraped off more so on the drivers front side... if I do service them what kind of a job are we looking here ?
Thanks for your input Rochester +1
Last edited by MillionBlades; 08-27-2009 at 08:44 AM.
MillionBlades - just replace the rotors and pads together. I would go for hawk brake pads.
I would suggest you change them yourself. There are alot of information on how to change your brake and rotor in the forum. It is easy and you will save yourself at least $100 for labor.
MillionBlades - just replace the rotors and pads together. I would go for hawk brake pads.
I would suggest you change them yourself. There are alot of information on how to change your brake and rotor in the forum. It is easy and you will save yourself at least $100 for labor.
I would but I'm currently unemployed and going to school for training till Oct... then job hunting... after I pass my certifications that is lol... so money is an issue.
But I've been saving money for this for a while and I would love to get higher performance rotors, pads and the whole set up but right now that's out of the question... If I can fix the breaks issue and drive for another year I can easily save up money but I would like to fix it on the cheap atm....
Not only that my suspension is going to hell and if I can have this guy I know help me figure out whats wrong... I posted my questions HERE since I can't start a new threads.
Ok, so my front brake pads started making that scraping noise while driving and the squeaking while backing up a few days ago. I ordered some new Akebono Street Performance pads today and they should be here by Monday or Tuesday. My question is: How long do I have before the pads start cutting into the rotors? I'm trying to drive the car as little as possible, but I got stuff to do. Since it only started making noise a few days ago, you think I'll be safe driving normally until Tuesday of next week?
as long as you dont hear metal to metal then you should be ok ooo and if you dont hear the scraping noise dont think that it got fix lol, what that means is that your censor broke and next time you hear the noise is going to be metal to metal
I would but I'm currently unemployed and going to school for training till Oct... then job hunting... after I pass my certifications that is lol... so money is an issue.
Money is always an issue... (unless you keep "spare calipers" in your trunk as back-ups. Yeah, I'm still trying to wrap my head around that one.)
Anyway, advice... you will save money and get better brakes if you go aftermarket with a trusted mechanic vs. the chain rip-offs vs. the dealership.
Also, don't be so quick with that "stealership" term. Some are, some aren't. Just like any other business.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MillionBlades
I posted my questions here since I can't start a new threads.
I get that, but that's what the "I am new here, but I have a question" thread is for. The mods who post answers there can be rudely rough sometimes, but they're also very experienced and insightful.
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NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
Went to Midas to get my heat shield removed + weld on new hanger ... which cost me $25
I asked about my brakes and got an estimate for replacing all 4 rotors + 4 pads which they checked and showed me what's wrong with them...and the total came up to *drum roll* $660 with tax
so I went to auto zone and got a quote on their best parts for 4 rotors + 4 pads which came up to $255 plus they offer warranty for 2 yrs no questions asked...
called this kid I know (friend of friends) and he told me he would do all the labor for $80
what pads + rotors combo do you guys reccomend? don't want to spend more than $350 & please provide links
called this kid I know (friend of friends) and he told me he would do all the labor for $80
Good for you!
I hope this "kid you know" knows his stuff. If you're happy with the work, give him an extra $50 and a sincere handshake. You'll both walk away richer for the experience.
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NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
what pads + rotors combo do you guys reccomend? don't want to spend more than $350 & please provide links
Last time I did brakes, I went with Brembo blanks, a set of Hawk pads in the front, and Akebono in the rear. The Brembo's rust like a Tin Man, and the Akebono's aren't wearing well against the rotors. I'm a little unhappy.
Next Spring, I'm replacing them all with a full set of Hawk HPS Pads (tirerack.com, $140 for both sets), and a full set of RTP Rotors ($176). Add in shipping, and there's your $350 cap.
Last time I did brakes, I went with Brembo blanks, a set of Hawk pads in the front, and Akebono in the rear. The Brembo's rust like a Tin Man, and the Akebono's aren't wearing well against the rotors. I'm a little unhappy.
Next Spring, I'm replacing them all with a full set of Hawk HPS Pads (tirerack.com, $140 for both sets), and a full set of RTP Rotors ($176). Add in shipping, and there's your $350 cap.
At least, that's the plan du jour. By all means, do this now and let me know how happy you are. Be my guinea pig, please.
I plan to go with the HAWK HPS Pads. As for rotors, peeps stated that some rotors started rusting on sides unless they were zinc coded (some zinc eventully started rusting too) I PMed LA02MAX for his set up... since he claims that for 4 yrs his setup still runs like new. I'll let you know if I go through with those rotors...
Last edited by MillionBlades; 08-28-2009 at 12:58 PM.
I plan to go with the HAWK HPS Pads. As for rotors, peeps stated that some rotors started rusting on sides unless they were zinc coded (some zinc eventully started rusting too) I PMed LA02MAX for his set up... since he claims that for 4 yrs his setup still runs like new. I'll let you know if I go through with those rotors...
Last I heard, you went with RTP and Hawk HPS... what's the verdict?
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NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
Stock rotors lasted 7 yrs in california, moved out to N.H. and a year later they were warped/ not worn out just warped... so to get them turned would be 15-20 buck a pop.. Yeah right, bought the 38.00 a piece front speacials at VIP and a year later again warped... they replaced that set and again a year and 2.5 months later one is shot warped... DONT by CHINA made rotors.. Even if you see they a name brand make sure you check if you see the MADE in CHINA on them.. well now I have to go get to more front rotors and this time they will have MADE in USA and hopefully US steel in them. Autozone has them with a two year warenty but again I looked and I see made in china... Not gonna do it.
I made an appointment there for tomorrow morning to have my muffler/exhaust pipe checked since its rattles... the guy said that maximas have issues since the pipes are covered with aluminum *don't know the proper term* and he'll take a look at it. Also I told him about my breaks... I'll have him take a look if its free
Any reason why to stay away from chains??? I'm a noob when it come to fixing cars, but I know how to change oil.
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