5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
im gonna ask n try to get em to do the z33 maps with the L-spec
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
Wish they could reflash the TCM for more consistent shifts and higher line pressure at full throttle...
Scott
yea I know what you mean.... but thats a whole diff ball game, you can always do the drop resistor mod for when you want the extra kick in shift pressure.
__________________
Whered that VQ go??
1. 2003 titanium edit blacked out,Hks Exhaust, Jim wolf Pop Charger, 17Deg advance, Nex Coilovers, staggered 20" (yaya i know)
2. 2000 pearl white 5 spd all basic bolt ons g35 whls, it was good while it lasted.
3 87 stang Project 306ci built motor full susp. (in garage) its sloow .....
hmm... not to nut swang on the guy, but IIRC Jaypee has the L-spec and is running some of the best bumbers on here N/A... lemme ask, if i say i want the custom tune will they automatically give me the z33 maps???... on paper i see the difference... on the track i dont
Nut swing all you want, I dyno'd a bunch of 5.5 gens at maxus before his, and I could just tell that thing was singing crazy.
__________________
Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
ya do a drop resistor mod and get a transmission control computer and problem solved.
Well...I do have a code reader to turn the damn SES light off when I need to!
Probably end up doing the Trans Go shift kit one of these days. With 162,025 miles on my car as of today, if I'm going to put some money into my car, I probably should be willing to put an engine and transmission into it when needed or find a lower mileage Maxima.
wait... so what is the ssim again? i understand the block off plate, i understand the spacers.. i read both and how to do it on the NWP site.. but what is the SSIM?
i plan on buy the spacers, block off plate, i guess do the ssim, intake, headers, ypipe, test pipe and exhaust and just swap all at once...
i do have an auto and i'll have the valve body built with the transgo.
another thing.. i know TS does the reflash... is it really worth it? i've read some of the things they can do, but i guess its beneficial with all those mods.. especially the intake manifold mods.
its funny.. i grew up with muscle cars... went to turbo's forgot about about NA stuff hahaha... gotta relearn crap..
__________________ My Babie with my Baby. Turbocharged S2000
with all that your going to need a way to tune your a/f ratio.. just sayin...
ssim=secreat sauce intake manifold .. lol...basically you cut the shelf out that is in the middle of the manifold, which opens up the runners more,.. some say its worth it some say its not.. there is a dyno compare around that shows the block off plate puts down more then the block off with shelf cut,.. but its all subjective,..
oh ok... so basically its best to just do the block off plate and spacers...
i'm assuming since one of the mods the TechnoSquare does keep the butterfly open all the way to redline, the ssim would be beneficial?
i thought about doing the greddy emanage ultimate but its just simpler to do the TS...plus its oem just reflashed..
is there a write up? because when i click on the HOW TO's it always has a different thread connected to it and never is the same thread to the actual HOW to
__________________ My Babie with my Baby. Turbocharged S2000
unlike adding boost to an NA car... *which is fun*, i really just wanna do all bolt ons and reflash.. i wanna do all the bolt on's mods that i can for NA without cracking the head open with cams n stuff...
maybe one day i can buy a good used motor and do the cams then before swapping into the car... but...
for now.. this would be nice daily
i just gotta make sure i do the transgo kit.
__________________ My Babie with my Baby. Turbocharged S2000
i'm assuming since one of the mods the TechnoSquare does keep the butterfly open all the way to redline...
I don't believe the TS flash has anything to do with the VIAS valve.
My understanding of the VIAS issue is that a modded engine can create an air-flow turbulence which compromises the pull from the vacuum actuator at WOT, causing the value to flutter. Hence the VIAS-delete mod, sacrificing a little low-end torque for improved high-rev air-flow. I haven't done it yet myself... saving that bit of fun for next Spring.
MidN1te, please don't take this the wrong way, but it reads like you're going after everything all at once. Slow down man, and force yourself to do one thing at a time.
Be the ball. Na-na-na-na-na...
__________________
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
its how i operate... If i already have the car down for doing the headers and ypipe and exhaust... its not much more to take off the intake and put the spacers on and the block off plate... i was freaked out about doing my spark plugs... one day i just went at it... i was SO surprised how easy it was it took me roughly 30 min... so unbolting the rest to add the spacers *and doing the proper procedure according the instructions* all at once, is definately alot better imo...
__________________ My Babie with my Baby. Turbocharged S2000
when i build cars... ofcourse there are times where you take steps.. but other times its beneficial do do things all at once..
for exampe.. if i do the headers and ypipe... i might as well add the Test Pipe and exhaust because its all new and easy to just bolt right on...
after i get all those...i'll just drop the car off at the house, send the ecu to TS. then get it back, drive it to the shop to have the Valve body modded with the transgo..
technically i should do the valve body to prepare for the extra power..
but what i'm doing is gathering parts...
__________________ My Babie with my Baby. Turbocharged S2000
I have the nwp spacers sitting in my garage as we speak!!
__________________
Whered that VQ go??
1. 2003 titanium edit blacked out,Hks Exhaust, Jim wolf Pop Charger, 17Deg advance, Nex Coilovers, staggered 20" (yaya i know)
2. 2000 pearl white 5 spd all basic bolt ons g35 whls, it was good while it lasted.
3 87 stang Project 306ci built motor full susp. (in garage) its sloow .....
so i can safely say just do the spacers and block off plate? full bolt ons and reflash?
Yeah for sure you can. I already did headers intake and block plate. Next will be 3" catback spacers and AFR tuning... then we'll see about the reflash. The main reason I would do the flash is to move up the rev limiter
I have the nwp spacers sitting in my garage as we speak!!
I've got the NWP block-off plate sitting on the floor of my car, waiting for the engine to cool down. Even without installing it, I felt a huge difference just driving from the mailbox to my parking spot.
I've got the NWP block-off plate sitting on the floor of my car, waiting for the engine to cool down. Even without installing it, I felt a huge difference just driving from the mailbox to my parking spot.
C'mon, funny man. Get that VIAS valve off your ride and let us know what you think!
This would be a VIAS-delete, but no Intake Spacers, right?
Had to get in a 23 mile ride on my road bike, supposed to rain tomorrow and I've got a ton of cars to detail over the weekend. Tonight was my last night to ride this week. Going to head down to my car in a bit. My bike light is 180 lumens (pretty much like having HIDs on my bike) so I'll have ample light.
I just got the block-off plate, going to get the spacers when I change the plugs.
Nut swing all you want, I dyno'd a bunch of 5.5 gens at maxus before his, and I could just tell that thing was singing crazy.
so you are saying???
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
Here is a comparison for yall on this block plate thing...
i raised 3mph with doing the SSIM on top of the block plate (no spacers) at the track, also lowered my PB by .2...
vids
Block plate No SSIM http://www.youtube.com/burrtvdotcom1#p/u/1/45N0MWPRtg0
Forget dyno paperwork... Performance and video is proof... now i cant really say it is because of the SSIM why i ran .2 seconds faster cause i had smaller wheels on... but i can say for a fact its because of the SSIM why i went from 97.08mph to 100.22mph... a very pleasing 3.14mph
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
Your absolutely right! i just remembered reading the instructions.
well then... shoot... i guess the ssim isnt worth it to me then... i only say this because i know it shifts the power from low end to the top end..
and i'm in the city more than anything and i would need the more down low power but willing to sacrefice some of it for the highway runs...
so i can safely say just do the spacers and block off plate? full bolt ons and reflash?
SSIM is worth it... trust... the minor loss in bottom end is worth it... think of it like this, for the most part u only see 3k and lower rpms when u leave the line, so bottom end really doesnt mean too much ur always 4K and climbing when your actually using the SSIM
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
SSIM is worth it... trust... the minor loss in bottom end is worth it... think of it like this, for the most part u only see 3k and lower rpms when u leave the line, so bottom end really doesnt mean too much ur always 4K and climbing when your actually using the SSIM
...at the drag strip! Most of my driving, I am under 3500 rpm so I don't want to kill low end torque. Plus to really take advantage of the SSIM, you need to raise the rev limiter to 7200 rpm. Definitely seems to be worthwhile if you run at the strip a lot but still not so sure with a street car. Maybe with the intake spacers you don't lose as much bottom end?
A few things for those who haven't yet done this mod:
1. The wiring bundle has a third bolt under it that is hard to access. If I'd had a 12 mm wrench, that might not have mattered but for some reason I couldn't find mine and had to access the 3 bolts on the VIAS set-up with a socket wrench and you can't access the lower rear bolt without removing the 3rd wiring bundle bolt. Make sure you have the tools you need (which are listed in the directions). I also had to unplug the light blue, dark blue and green wiring connectors to have enough clearance to get that bolt with a socket.
2. If you have a upper strut bar, unbolt it on the passenger side, gives you more clearance.
3. Read the directions! You cannot remove the VIAS assembly if you don't partially close the butterfly valve. It closes towards the radiator, NOT THE FIREWALL! I would have realized what the problem was if I'd turned to page 2 of the directions.
My impressions of the mod:
1. Very nice looking, well machined plate. Fits perfectly.
2. I did notice some "softness" between 2800 to around 4000 rpm but after that there is a noticable surge and the tach seems to fly towards redline. Plus I noticed that left in drive, my car was now shifting at 6400 rpm instead of 6200 rpm.
3. If you launch hard, you really don't notice the bottom end loss, especially if you allow a *little* wheelspin.
4. From a roll, even if the engine is under 4000 rpms after the downshift, the pull is more consistent. A constant irritation with my car is how at lets say, a 50 mph roll, when I get all the way on it, sometimes it pulls real hard, other times it is soft until the rpms build a bit. My guess is that the VIAS system doesn't always work exactly as it is supposed to and the valve doesn't open and close properly all the time.
5. The surge above 4000 rpms is oddly more pronounced at part throttle. Not sure why but it was a nice surprise.
Since everyone likes pictures:
I can see why this big 'ol thing is a restriction on top end! And yes, my car does use a quart of oil every 1500-1800 miles on average. However, there was no pooling of oil in the intake but it did have a yellowish cast to the interior.
I think the powervalve would work better if the vacuum tube was larger than what is on there right now. It's just way too small to compensate for the rubulence of the air blasting past it at WOT.
I have a blockoff plate sitting here right now, but I'm not sure if it will mess up my tune.
__________________
6MT | 06HLSD | I/H/E & FC | Stillen FSTB & RSB | Eibach Pro Kit | Illuminas | Watkins STS | UDP | NWP Spacers | Greddy Blue | ES Bushings
253.50 fwhp
249.75 lb/ft tq
14.3 @ 101mph (street tires, bad wheel bearing and a few spun tranny bearings)
I think the powervalve would work better if the vacuum tube was larger than what is on there right now. It's just way too small to compensate for the rubulence of the air blasting past it at WOT.