1/4 rust repair
07-15-2009, 08:07 PM
#4
Filled all the gap with the seam sealer.Being carefull not to leave any gaps for moisture to get in.
Scuffed the inside of the wheelwell with 3M red suff pad for adhesion of rubber undercoating.Thought I took a picture of the can but didnt.So 2 coats of that.
Thats pretty much it.Just needed some paint afterwards.Didnt even mess up the sheetmetal on the outside.
Scuffed the inside of the wheelwell with 3M red suff pad for adhesion of rubber undercoating.Thought I took a picture of the can but didnt.So 2 coats of that.
Thats pretty much it.Just needed some paint afterwards.Didnt even mess up the sheetmetal on the outside.
07-15-2009, 08:12 PM
#5
Questions and comments are welcome.Now all I need to do is get inside the trunk and spray a "wax" to seal off moisture from the inside.Before anyone asks,Im not doing this to your car.Just posted to show a permanent repair can be done.
07-16-2009, 11:24 AM
#14
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
You definately took it to the step I wanted to, but have been unable to due to lacking tools.
So you can pry those two "pieces" of metal apart so you can get at all that crappy rust? I was worried that because they were welded/rivited and I would cause body panel damage beyond the rust (bend marks, wrinkles in the metal). I dont have access to body shop tools/materials.
How bad is it to "pop" those welds and rivits? I am assuming you used a body hammer to mate the two pieces of metal back together? What tool/how did you peel the two pieces apart without damaging/warping the metal?
So you:
Is that seam sealer like latex caulk? Or a much harder substrate? Reason I ask is why didnt you seam sealer then press the two panels together and then seam seal again?
So you can pry those two "pieces" of metal apart so you can get at all that crappy rust? I was worried that because they were welded/rivited and I would cause body panel damage beyond the rust (bend marks, wrinkles in the metal). I dont have access to body shop tools/materials.
How bad is it to "pop" those welds and rivits? I am assuming you used a body hammer to mate the two pieces of metal back together? What tool/how did you peel the two pieces apart without damaging/warping the metal?
So you:
- ground the rivits
- peeled the metal
- ground the rust off in the now open gap.
- applied zinc
- beat the two pieces back together
- Applied seam sealer
- Applied 3M Rubberized Spray
Is that seam sealer like latex caulk? Or a much harder substrate? Reason I ask is why didnt you seam sealer then press the two panels together and then seam seal again?
Last edited by Colonel; 07-16-2009 at 11:27 AM.
yeah deff good work man like that plate idea too
07-17-2009, 07:24 PM
#17
Yea all the quarter lip is two pieces of metal welded together.What I did was grind away at the lip till the welds were no more.If you wanted to separate them without doing all that you can drill the just dimples out .Wasnt worried about the metal distorting onthe inside since it isnt seen anyways.Seam sealer and undercoating covers all the flaws.
To separate the metal I used a small screwdriver to get the gap started and then some small needle nose pliers to tug at the inside layer.The outer layer I was careful not to mess with because I didnt want to respray the whole outside quarter.The picture shows the outside wheelwell wasnt distorted at all.
Any semi pointy hammer will work.Wasnt going for perfection.Yea Colonel,That list pretty much describes all the steps.The only thing that should have been done different is keep the grinder moving while getting the rust out.I let it get too hot and the paint started bubbling on the outside.Luckily it was still inside the lip so all it took was a little sanding and paint.
The seam sealer used dries to what I would equal to a tennis shoe sole.Cant squeeze it once its dry.Which it does quickly.It should be fine though.Just gotta get some "cavity wax" sprayed from inside the trunk.
Im not a bodyman ,just a painter with access to tools and some free time everyone once in a while.
To separate the metal I used a small screwdriver to get the gap started and then some small needle nose pliers to tug at the inside layer.The outer layer I was careful not to mess with because I didnt want to respray the whole outside quarter.The picture shows the outside wheelwell wasnt distorted at all.
Any semi pointy hammer will work.Wasnt going for perfection.Yea Colonel,That list pretty much describes all the steps.The only thing that should have been done different is keep the grinder moving while getting the rust out.I let it get too hot and the paint started bubbling on the outside.Luckily it was still inside the lip so all it took was a little sanding and paint.
The seam sealer used dries to what I would equal to a tennis shoe sole.Cant squeeze it once its dry.Which it does quickly.It should be fine though.Just gotta get some "cavity wax" sprayed from inside the trunk.
Im not a bodyman ,just a painter with access to tools and some free time everyone once in a while.
07-30-2009, 07:50 PM
#22
Rust FTL my 01 is just starting in the exact same spot.
Hose clamps FTW!!! Instead of having my B-Pipe hanger re-welded every 4months, finally clamped the SOB down to a metal cross bar.
Hose clamps FTW!!! Instead of having my B-Pipe hanger re-welded every 4months, finally clamped the SOB down to a metal cross bar.
08-30-2011, 04:05 AM
#29
Excellent write up op, I like learning about body work products , its the one automotive trades I can't seem to master. Body work isn't easy for those who never tried it.
As far as rust preventive paint, por 15 is great, and I just recently tried master series silver which is a product from a small company that the vintage vw guys swear by cost much less then por too. I love toyota trucks so I'm always battling with rust and etc.
As far as rust preventive paint, por 15 is great, and I just recently tried master series silver which is a product from a small company that the vintage vw guys swear by cost much less then por too. I love toyota trucks so I'm always battling with rust and etc.
08-30-2011, 09:37 AM
#31
08-30-2011, 05:48 PM
#33
Excellent write up op, I like learning about body work products , its the one automotive trades I can't seem to master. Body work isn't easy for those who never tried it.
As far as rust preventive paint, por 15 is great, and I just recently tried master series silver which is a product from a small company that the vintage vw guys swear by cost much less then por too. I love toyota trucks so I'm always battling with rust and etc.
As far as rust preventive paint, por 15 is great, and I just recently tried master series silver which is a product from a small company that the vintage vw guys swear by cost much less then por too. I love toyota trucks so I'm always battling with rust and etc.
08-30-2011, 05:49 PM
#34
Excellent write up op, I like learning about body work products , its the one automotive trades I can't seem to master. Body work isn't easy for those who never tried it.
As far as rust preventive paint, por 15 is great, and I just recently tried master series silver which is a product from a small company that the vintage vw guys swear by cost much less then por too. I love toyota trucks so I'm always battling with rust and etc.
As far as rust preventive paint, por 15 is great, and I just recently tried master series silver which is a product from a small company that the vintage vw guys swear by cost much less then por too. I love toyota trucks so I'm always battling with rust and etc.
08-30-2011, 05:52 PM
#35
08-30-2011, 06:25 PM
#36
Took a grinder to the lip edge shaving it down little by little till the spot welds that hold the metal together were gone.Then jammed a screwdriver in the crack to start spreading the metal.Finished pulling with pliers tugging the inner lip.So no ,no special tools besides the grinder.
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