str8max

iTrader: (3)

Well after noticing this leak I decided to pull the lower pan and reseal it with new RTV.

Well after getting all of the old RTV off and cleaning I put the new RTV on and started to bolt up and noticed one of the bolts would not tighten . This is where the leak was!

So now I have to helicoil.... gotta get this done before vacation next week!

Just wanted to vent!

Czerkas

iTrader: (1)

that blows.

noob question, what is RTV?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

str8max

iTrader: (3)

Well to start it had to be the one by the exhaust..... Well after taking everything apart and cleaning I started to work on the bolt hole.

I must say it wasn't that bad it did not need a helicoil the hole was full of silicone and was just a little stripped.

So I got the compressor and blew it out and cleaned up the hole with a new bolt....... all done!

Lubed up the new pan and all was good...WHEW!!!!!

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

you wouldnt happen to have the part # for the oil pan ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

For the lower oil pan itself?

11110-2Y000, $78.92 each at Courtesy

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Did you have some work on your engine before that someone stripped that bolt hole? I'm sure it didn't come from the factory like that! Heli-coil time baby!

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

I have a lower oil pan leak as well. Some of the bolts are super rusted. I was wiping down the pan to see if I could isolate the leak better and it was if the pan was crumbling when I wiped that spot...all that rust and stuff. I just know when I try to take the bolts off, they're gonna break.

str8max

iTrader: (3)

Ok after doing the lower pan I still have a leak in the back of the pan! Its not as bad as it was before but a PITA.... Is there a write up on this anywhere?

Do you think its time to replace the pan?

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

str8max, were any of your bolts rusted? Did any one them break? If so what did you do or what you would do if that occurred? I'm about to replace my oil pan but feel like rust is gonna end up making my life miserable. Also, did you end up replacing the pan or no?

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

I had this prob a few months ago when I bought my max. You should replace the oil pan and use a gasket and silicone. It takes 1-2 hrs depending on how bad the bolts are.
there is one bolt that is tucked in behind part of the exhaust, you need a small ratchet set to get at it and it is a real pita

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Dang, and I thought this job was gonna be easy.

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

its pretty easy exept that one bolt set me back like 40 mins...
Also, I have a hanes manual with the tightening sequence for the oil pan bolts if u want pm me

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

In my case, it'd probably set me back 2 hours. Thanks but I'm all good with the tightening sequence, just found it in the FSM.

diverdown3

iTrader: (9)

40 minutes? There must be something causing your exhaust to obstruct that one bolt. My stock exhaust is only slightly in the way and consumes no more time than the others to tighten or loosen. No problems when using the tourque wrench either.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It should only take what, 5 or 10 minutes to drop the pan at most. It's only 10 10mm head bolts.

FWIW so far as I've seen, the torque sequence and values are largely irrelevant for the VQ lower oil pan, you don't need to do anything special. I would recommend not using any sort of gasket, just RTV.

Actually now that I think about it, the only things I actually use a torque wrench on are rod/main/head bolts, and most of the time lugnuts. Everything else can be done by feel.