5.5 Gen dyno FAIL!
04-25-2009, 04:44 PM
#1
5.5 Gen dyno FAIL!
UPDATE please read page 3.....
Ok so they had a dyno day today at a local shop. I knew I wasn't going to run great numbers because I knew something is wrong with my car.
This is the other thread that someone started about how it feels and what could possibly be wrong.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...03-maxima.html
Anyway here is the dyno..flaming may happen, but I would rather get some constructive input in this matter. My mods are listed in my Sig.. It looks like I'm running pretty lean. However how would this give me 30-50 HP and TQ less than other Maximas with the same mods.....?
OBTW...I kept getting it called the Maxi-Pad (before the run) and "Hey the car is backwards, and the engine is sideways".....fun stuff...mustangers
Ok so they had a dyno day today at a local shop. I knew I wasn't going to run great numbers because I knew something is wrong with my car.
This is the other thread that someone started about how it feels and what could possibly be wrong.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...03-maxima.html
Anyway here is the dyno..flaming may happen, but I would rather get some constructive input in this matter. My mods are listed in my Sig.. It looks like I'm running pretty lean. However how would this give me 30-50 HP and TQ less than other Maximas with the same mods.....?
OBTW...I kept getting it called the Maxi-Pad (before the run) and "Hey the car is backwards, and the engine is sideways".....fun stuff...mustangers
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 05-10-2009 at 04:22 PM.
04-25-2009, 05:18 PM
#4
I'm sure you would! I don't recall what stock dyno runs are, but I'm sure its equal to or more then....
The shop said I'm running really lean, a piggyback system should help....
The shop said I'm running really lean, a piggyback system should help....
04-25-2009, 05:19 PM
#5
04-25-2009, 05:30 PM
#7
04-25-2009, 06:44 PM
#9
Test coilpacks, change spark plugs, check all fluids, compression test, check the MAF
Your AFR is high IMO, but nothing out of the range of 12-14.7.
Your AFR is high IMO, but nothing out of the range of 12-14.7.
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 04-25-2009 at 06:57 PM.
04-25-2009, 06:57 PM
#10
I was thinking about replacing all my injectors because when the spacers were put in the shop that did it carelessly and used too much rtv during the instal, which cause a bogging in my start up but ran fine during normal op.....they reinstalled the spacers for free and used anarobic sealant instead and now no more start up bog..but would that cause a 30-50hp drop?? plugs are brand new, oil change will be done this weekend, was done 2500 miles ago and synthetic, coolant could stand to be flushed...and i havent done a compression test, checked coilpacks or maf check..ill up search for more info on those soon (DIY ETC) and post back results...any more ideas?
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 04-25-2009 at 07:00 PM.
04-25-2009, 07:06 PM
#12
I don't know but an AFR approaching 15 at WOT is waaaaay too lean. This is most likely why your max has better performance while cold, because it is less prone to detonation. With this lean AFR your engine is probably retarding ignition timing A LOT to avoid knock/detonation.
You mentioned you deleted your VIAS and have a block off plate? Any vacuum leaks around this? Your engine could be sucking in unmetered air, thus causing it to be so lean.
You mentioned you deleted your VIAS and have a block off plate? Any vacuum leaks around this? Your engine could be sucking in unmetered air, thus causing it to be so lean.
04-25-2009, 07:15 PM
#13
The only code I have is pending P1800 but thats for VIAS system fail
When I got my timing advanced the dude that did it said my timing was retarded by 1. So it was 14. On the dyno sheet you can see the up and down quite a bit, thats the ECU retarding the timing I believe.
I do have the block off plate yes, and the vacuum line is capped off, I can check the cap to make sure its on there tight. I just checked all air/vacuum lines and they are tight and clamped correctly.
I don't know but an AFR approaching 15 at WOT is waaaaay too lean. This is most likely why your max has better performance while cold, because it is less prone to detonation. With this lean AFR your engine is probably retarding ignition timing A LOT to avoid knock/detonation.
You mentioned you deleted your VIAS and have a block off plate? Any vacuum leaks around this? Your engine could be sucking in unmetered air, thus causing it to be so lean.
You mentioned you deleted your VIAS and have a block off plate? Any vacuum leaks around this? Your engine could be sucking in unmetered air, thus causing it to be so lean.
I do have the block off plate yes, and the vacuum line is capped off, I can check the cap to make sure its on there tight. I just checked all air/vacuum lines and they are tight and clamped correctly.
04-25-2009, 07:24 PM
#14
The only code I have is pending P1800 but thats for VIAS system fail
When I got my timing advanced the dude that did it said my timing was retarded by 1. So it was 14. On the dyno sheet you can see the up and down quite a bit, thats the ECU retarding the timing I believe.
I do have the block off plate yes, and the vacuum line is capped off, I can check the cap to make sure its on there tight. I just checked all air/vacuum lines and they are tight and clamped correctly.
When I got my timing advanced the dude that did it said my timing was retarded by 1. So it was 14. On the dyno sheet you can see the up and down quite a bit, thats the ECU retarding the timing I believe.
I do have the block off plate yes, and the vacuum line is capped off, I can check the cap to make sure its on there tight. I just checked all air/vacuum lines and they are tight and clamped correctly.
Yes, it definitely looks like that from the ups and downs on the sheet. I am almost certain it is retarding timing. It would have to with an AF that lean.
There may be a crack or something isn't seated properly. Could be the spacers too.
Apparently a good check for vacuum leaks is to take a propane torch, don't light it, but turn it on so it spews propane gas out and wave it around your intake manifold area. If there there is a vacuum leak and it sucks propane in, you will hear a change in your idle speed.
At this point I would say this probably has to be either:
1.) Vacuum leak or unmetered air getting in from somewhere. (too much air)
2.) plugged up/blocked injector or faulty injector harness/connections. (not enough fuel)
04-25-2009, 07:32 PM
#17
Also what about altitude correction? Without SAE compensation I wouldn't be shocked if my car puts down about 130-140hp at the wheels just because of my altitude and thin air. That can make a huge difference too.
04-25-2009, 07:33 PM
#18
Yes, it definitely looks like that from the ups and downs on the sheet. I am almost certain it is retarding timing. It would have to with an AF that lean.
There may be a crack or something isn't seated properly. Could be the spacers too.
Apparently a good check for vacuum leaks is to take a propane torch, don't light it, but turn it on so it spews propane gas out and wave it around your intake manifold area. If there there is a vacuum leak and it sucks propane in, you will hear a change in your idle speed.
At this point I would say this probably has to be either:
1.) Vacuum leak or unmetered air getting in from somewhere. (too much air)
2.) plugged up/blocked injector or faulty injector harness/connections. (not enough fuel)
There may be a crack or something isn't seated properly. Could be the spacers too.
Apparently a good check for vacuum leaks is to take a propane torch, don't light it, but turn it on so it spews propane gas out and wave it around your intake manifold area. If there there is a vacuum leak and it sucks propane in, you will hear a change in your idle speed.
At this point I would say this probably has to be either:
1.) Vacuum leak or unmetered air getting in from somewhere. (too much air)
2.) plugged up/blocked injector or faulty injector harness/connections. (not enough fuel)
LULZ i would hope not! and yeah its lame
04-25-2009, 07:36 PM
#19
Was your graph all jaggedy like his? Do you know your AF ratio through the dyno run?
Also what about altitude correction? Without SAE compensation I wouldn't be shocked if my car puts down about 130-140hp at the wheels just because of my altitude and thin air. That can make a huge difference too.
Also what about altitude correction? Without SAE compensation I wouldn't be shocked if my car puts down about 130-140hp at the wheels just because of my altitude and thin air. That can make a huge difference too.
04-25-2009, 08:52 PM
#21
There is four things this might be.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
Last edited by Revs2Hard; 04-25-2009 at 09:08 PM.
04-25-2009, 09:43 PM
#22
Nope not right lol....i will have to check the maf...
I'm an auto.....the dynos were from 55-80 in second gear....I did replace one coil....should replace all of them and injectors maybe.....and the timing stuck, because i had it checked again and its 17, but it looks like the ecu retards it while driving....
I had a "certified" nissan tech do this for 10 bucks....i dont think he was in it to make money.....10 bucks...lol
There is four things this might be.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
I had a "certified" nissan tech do this for 10 bucks....i dont think he was in it to make money.....10 bucks...lol
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 04-26-2009 at 02:13 AM.
04-25-2009, 11:01 PM
#23
There is four things this might be.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
No it won't.
Once one bumps up base timing using Consult 2, the only way to retard it is to use Consult 2. My base timing is at 712 (exactly where it was set 2 months ago).
Also keep in mind this is only for base timing. Nothing is changed at WOT.
04-25-2009, 11:48 PM
#24
I would be more incline to say something is up with vacuum just because you've had changes done with the IM (spacers and VIAS block plate). That likely is what is causing the lean issue. I wouldn't be surprised if there was some knocking going on and the car is pulling timing on you. A good test is to take some carb cleaner, and spray the mating surfaces as any components on the intake after the MAF. If you get a change in idle, you found the leak.
revs2hard: What is this 'sertified' tech you speak of?
S
revs2hard: What is this 'sertified' tech you speak of?
S
Last edited by maximase86; 04-26-2009 at 12:01 AM.
04-26-2009, 12:25 AM
#25
There is four things this might be.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
Coilpacks
MAF
Clutch
Raising the timing up with out upping the fuel pressure. That cant be it though because the timing advance isnt a mod its BS. LMAO I laugh so hard everytime I read it. Talk to any sertified nissan tech and they will tell you its a good way to take your money. The car auto adjusts its timing when you drive it. If you change the timing it will readjust itself about 5-10 miles down te road back to stock specs. The only way to change it for good is by getting a new ecu that you program yourself. You all can arguee me if you want but your wrong. Please dont be butt hurt over this its just not possible, go ask a professional.
By the earthquake meter of a dyno sheet your throwing there I would say the clutch. Mine looks the same because the nitrous ate my exedy alive. When was the last time you replaced your clutch and have you ever replaced the coilpacks or MAF? Also I would check the nissan service bulletins for anything related to your issue.
I agree with maximase86, I have had some lean issues just like yours that were caused by vacuum leaks. I was in the 14-15 AFR range as well.
Last edited by mastercater7; 04-26-2009 at 01:57 AM.
04-26-2009, 12:32 AM
#26
I would be more incline to say something is up with vacuum just because you've had changes done with the IM (spacers and VIAS block plate). That likely is what is causing the lean issue. I wouldn't be surprised if there was some knocking going on and the car is pulling timing on you. A good test is to take some carb cleaner, and spray the mating surfaces as any components on the intake after the MAF. If you get a change in idle, you found the leak.
revs2hard: What is this 'sertified' tech you speak of?
S
revs2hard: What is this 'sertified' tech you speak of?
S
Again thanks for everyones replies keep em coming...I should be able to do a couple things in the morning.
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 04-26-2009 at 12:35 AM.
04-26-2009, 01:09 AM
#28
S
04-26-2009, 01:34 AM
#29
Any place that has a gasket and is involved with the IM essentially. So look at the gasket around UIM and LIM, the VIAS blank plate, the elbow of the IM, and the TB. Also check around the intake mid-pipe between the TB and the MAF, as well as any tubes that run off the mid-pipe. Lots of places to have a leak.
S
S
Yes, it definitely looks like that from the ups and downs on the sheet. I am almost certain it is retarding timing. It would have to with an AF that lean.
There may be a crack or something isn't seated properly. Could be the spacers too.
Apparently a good check for vacuum leaks is to take a propane torch, don't light it, but turn it on so it spews propane gas out and wave it around your intake manifold area. If there there is a vacuum leak and it sucks propane in, you will hear a change in your idle speed.
At this point I would say this probably has to be either:
1.) Vacuum leak or unmetered air getting in from somewhere. (too much air)
2.) plugged up/blocked injector or faulty injector harness/connections. (not enough fuel)
There may be a crack or something isn't seated properly. Could be the spacers too.
Apparently a good check for vacuum leaks is to take a propane torch, don't light it, but turn it on so it spews propane gas out and wave it around your intake manifold area. If there there is a vacuum leak and it sucks propane in, you will hear a change in your idle speed.
At this point I would say this probably has to be either:
1.) Vacuum leak or unmetered air getting in from somewhere. (too much air)
2.) plugged up/blocked injector or faulty injector harness/connections. (not enough fuel)
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 04-26-2009 at 02:15 AM.
04-26-2009, 05:28 AM
#30
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Well I geuss we've ruled out the rear brakes 
First thing I did after seeing this graph was glanced in the top right corner, once I saw that smoothing was indeed on and set to 5 I said "Oh yeah, there's definitly a problem".
Are your fuel-rails bolted down? lol.
**** all the propane-smoke-carb cleaner bs, me personally I've never had good results with any of those methods. Do a boost leak test! (You don't need to be boosted for this) Get a 3" expandable plug from home depot, they are made for testing plumbing drains. Use it to plug your throttle body. Than route some compressed sjop air into a vacuum line, you will probably need a blowgun with a fine tip (that's what I use anyways) Because you need a way to meter the air. Then put a boost gauge somewhere in line or in the system. Pressurise the intake with 10lb's, have some soapy water on hand, or better yet- tech-foam, a product sold at RV places for detecting leaks in propane systems, it foams up like crazy in the presence of a leak.
I realize this can get semi expensive if you don't have some of the supplies, but it's my .02c's, it works way better than any other method out there.
I wouldn't be suprised if it is something else though, just doesn't seem like a vacuum problem to me, those tend to cause some idle issues and p0300's. I would first suspect plugs, compression, maf, coils. But remember to keep it simple. Insect that places work real close, check the fuel supply line carefully, and di you have a rear valve cover done at the same time? If you had the rear valve cover done- follow the wire for the bank 1 cam sensor (firewall side, cam sensor = on cylinder head = neon green plug) And make sure it didn't get pinched under the valve cover way at the back where you can't see. If you have to, pull **** apart, it's not that hard! Visual inspection is one of the ways most problems are found, and that doesn't always mean just looking at things, you've got to poke, prod, and listen, and sometimes pull **** apart to investigate further.
First thing I did after seeing this graph was glanced in the top right corner, once I saw that smoothing was indeed on and set to 5 I said "Oh yeah, there's definitly a problem". Are your fuel-rails bolted down? lol.
**** all the propane-smoke-carb cleaner bs, me personally I've never had good results with any of those methods. Do a boost leak test! (You don't need to be boosted for this) Get a 3" expandable plug from home depot, they are made for testing plumbing drains. Use it to plug your throttle body. Than route some compressed sjop air into a vacuum line, you will probably need a blowgun with a fine tip (that's what I use anyways) Because you need a way to meter the air. Then put a boost gauge somewhere in line or in the system. Pressurise the intake with 10lb's, have some soapy water on hand, or better yet- tech-foam, a product sold at RV places for detecting leaks in propane systems, it foams up like crazy in the presence of a leak.
I realize this can get semi expensive if you don't have some of the supplies, but it's my .02c's, it works way better than any other method out there.
I wouldn't be suprised if it is something else though, just doesn't seem like a vacuum problem to me, those tend to cause some idle issues and p0300's. I would first suspect plugs, compression, maf, coils. But remember to keep it simple. Insect that places work real close, check the fuel supply line carefully, and di you have a rear valve cover done at the same time? If you had the rear valve cover done- follow the wire for the bank 1 cam sensor (firewall side, cam sensor = on cylinder head = neon green plug) And make sure it didn't get pinched under the valve cover way at the back where you can't see. If you have to, pull **** apart, it's not that hard! Visual inspection is one of the ways most problems are found, and that doesn't always mean just looking at things, you've got to poke, prod, and listen, and sometimes pull **** apart to investigate further.
04-26-2009, 05:36 AM
#31
Lol sure did....I knew something was up....for a while there though I thought it was in my head....ol' Maxima is staying in the garage now until i can figure out whats wrong....gotta drive the escape 24/7 now lol....
anyway....before I try all that stuff you just listed I will give the quick and easy methods a shot....I do seriously think though there may be something wrong with my injectors because I had to get my spacers redone by the shop that did them....
anyway....before I try all that stuff you just listed I will give the quick and easy methods a shot....I do seriously think though there may be something wrong with my injectors because I had to get my spacers redone by the shop that did them....
04-26-2009, 05:47 AM
#32
Why did you dyno is 2nd gear? 3rd gear would have been more appropriate for an auto.
http://www.nissanhelp.com/Models/200...ifications.htm
http://www.nissanhelp.com/Models/200...ifications.htm
04-26-2009, 05:50 AM
#34
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Lol sure did....I knew something was up....for a while there though I thought it was in my head....ol' Maxima is staying in the garage now until i can figure out whats wrong....gotta drive the escape 24/7 now lol....
anyway....before I try all that stuff you just listed I will give the quick and easy methods a shot....I do seriously think though there may be something wrong with my injectors because I had to get my spacers redone by the shop that did them....
anyway....before I try all that stuff you just listed I will give the quick and easy methods a shot....I do seriously think though there may be something wrong with my injectors because I had to get my spacers redone by the shop that did them....
I should have mentioned the much easier method that I always use first: Take the end off of an automotive stethescope, or any stethescope really, and run it around all of the surfaces, it works really good, better then the propane crap.
As for the injectors, you can take the upper off, invert the rail, (You have to unplug the injectors and re-plug them in differently (ie front connectors into back injectors) and then crank the car over while whatching the spray pattern. This works bomb! But use common sense here, you are spraying highly atomized fuel everywhere.
04-26-2009, 05:57 AM
#35
I should have mentioned the much easier method that I always use first: Take the end off of an automotive stethescope, or any stethescope really, and run it around all of the surfaces, it works really good, better then the propane crap.
As for the injectors, you can take the upper off, invert the rail, (You have to unplug the injectors and re-plug them in differently (ie front connectors into back injectors) and then crank the car over while whatching the spray pattern. This works bomb! But use common sense here, you are spraying highly atomized fuel everywhere.
As for the injectors, you can take the upper off, invert the rail, (You have to unplug the injectors and re-plug them in differently (ie front connectors into back injectors) and then crank the car over while whatching the spray pattern. This works bomb! But use common sense here, you are spraying highly atomized fuel everywhere.
I may have a shop replace the injectors or at least look at them to see...I'm more of an electrical guru lol
04-26-2009, 06:37 AM
#36
nah all i have is a greddy evo2 exhaust but when I got the car dynoed that was before I had the exhaust and was completely stock, im pretty much at sealevel so altitude shouldnt be a problem here.
my dyno was all jaggity like yours but I tossed the sheet out cuz I was so dissapointed lol. they didnt show or tell me what my A/F is though.....i blame it on the dyno that thing was 3 years younger than god looking! lol
04-26-2009, 09:53 AM
#37
But wouldn't bad injector(s) cause a MIL, i.e. cylinder misfire? I think we may be overlooking something.
To the OP, when did your Max start lagging? Was it after the spacers were installed? If it was, then your problem is with the install.
If not, then check the obvious 1st. You have an 02 with possibly the old style air flow meter. There is a TSB on this problem.
Also, according to your sig, you have "custom exhaust" What exactly do you mean by that? Any restriction in flow? Any cats present?
Again, ask yourself, "When did this problem start?"
To the OP, when did your Max start lagging? Was it after the spacers were installed? If it was, then your problem is with the install.
If not, then check the obvious 1st. You have an 02 with possibly the old style air flow meter. There is a TSB on this problem.
Also, according to your sig, you have "custom exhaust" What exactly do you mean by that? Any restriction in flow? Any cats present?
Again, ask yourself, "When did this problem start?"
04-26-2009, 10:30 AM
#38
Have you put a vacuum gauge on the engine yet to see what it is reading? Low reading at idle (under 20 pounds or so) would indicate a vacuum leak. If you slowly rev the engine and the vacuum starts to drop, that would suggest an exhaust restriction.
04-26-2009, 02:01 PM
#40
But wouldn't bad injector(s) cause a MIL, i.e. cylinder misfire? I think we may be overlooking something.
To the OP, when did your Max start lagging? Was it after the spacers were installed? If it was, then your problem is with the install.
If not, then check the obvious 1st. You have an 02 with possibly the old style air flow meter. There is a TSB on this problem.
Also, according to your sig, you have "custom exhaust" What exactly do you mean by that? Any restriction in flow? Any cats present?
Again, ask yourself, "When did this problem start?"
To the OP, when did your Max start lagging? Was it after the spacers were installed? If it was, then your problem is with the install.
If not, then check the obvious 1st. You have an 02 with possibly the old style air flow meter. There is a TSB on this problem.
Also, according to your sig, you have "custom exhaust" What exactly do you mean by that? Any restriction in flow? Any cats present?
Again, ask yourself, "When did this problem start?"
To be honest I can't really remember when I started to question the lag in the car (which doesnt help I know
). My exhaust is simply custom 2.5 in stainless mandrel bent from the catalytic to the rear w/ a high flow resonator and muffler delete....I noticed a power increase after I got it, however again I don't remember when it started to lag, because I wasn't as in tune with the way my car performed or acted until I started to read a lot more.
Werd son I will yo