OBX Headers and NWP Spacers....
04-03-2009, 06:38 AM
#1
OBX Headers and NWP Spacers....
Hey guys it's been a while...I am getting my '02 Maxima back and I just had a couple questions since I've been out of the Maxima game for a while. I was looking on the 'ol Ebay and came across these headers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-H...Q5fAccessories
Now from what I have been reading these are decently made nowadays and look like they are almost equal length on both runners and have good fitment. Now my question is if I bought those headers for $350 and an NWP Spacer kit for $225 which would bring me up to $575, do you think that would probably give me an overall better gain then spending another $850 for another set of Cattman's (I orignally had the Gen III Cattman's on and they were awesome I just don't want to spend that much again) I would think the Cattman's would only make like 5 or so hp over the OBX ones. But glad to be back
Now from what I have been reading these are decently made nowadays and look like they are almost equal length on both runners and have good fitment. Now my question is if I bought those headers for $350 and an NWP Spacer kit for $225 which would bring me up to $575, do you think that would probably give me an overall better gain then spending another $850 for another set of Cattman's (I orignally had the Gen III Cattman's on and they were awesome I just don't want to spend that much again) I would think the Cattman's would only make like 5 or so hp over the OBX ones. But glad to be back
04-04-2009, 09:59 PM
#5
Not bad...that sounds like some Cattman #'s so maybe the new OBX's aren't so bad. How was the fitment on these...did you have to notch anything out???
04-05-2009, 07:23 AM
#6
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The only advantage I would see with the cattmans would be fitment and long-term durability since the obx's don't fit 100%. I installed a set of obx's yesterday on a motor that was out of the car (Now in) and I imagine it would be a little tricky in the car. I had to grind the engine crossmember & the rear motor mount bracket, it was minor, not a big deal. I also had to leave everything loose (manifold bolts/studs) AND use some force to get the front header flange to line up.
Also, this is a "lift only" job imho, with impact swivels and skills helping greatly, and don't forget to use the original nissan gaskets (preferabbly with some permetex ultra copper SPRAY, stuff is bomb)
Anyways, me and Allblackmax fired the car up around 1am and proceeded to take turns driving/listening. From both veiw it sounds REALLY REALLY nice. Like a really nice honda actually, weird.
You keeping that thing polished for me?
Also, this is a "lift only" job imho, with impact swivels and skills helping greatly, and don't forget to use the original nissan gaskets (preferabbly with some permetex ultra copper SPRAY, stuff is bomb)
Anyways, me and Allblackmax fired the car up around 1am and proceeded to take turns driving/listening. From both veiw it sounds REALLY REALLY nice. Like a really nice honda actually, weird.
You keeping that thing polished for me?
04-05-2009, 07:38 AM
#7
The only advantage I would see with the cattmans would be fitment and long-term durability since the obx's don't fit 100%. I installed a set of obx's yesterday on a motor that was out of the car (Now in) and I imagine it would be a little tricky in the car. I had to grind the engine crossmember & the rear motor mount bracket, it was minor, not a big deal. I also had to leave everything loose (manifold bolts/studs) AND use some force to get the front header flange to line up.
Also, this is a "lift only" job imho, with impact swivels and skills helping greatly, and don't forget to use the original nissan gaskets (preferabbly with some permetex ultra copper SPRAY, stuff is bomb)
Anyways, me and Allblackmax fired the car up around 1am and proceeded to take turns driving/listening. From both veiw it sounds REALLY REALLY nice. Like a really nice honda actually, weird.
You keeping that thing polished for me?
Also, this is a "lift only" job imho, with impact swivels and skills helping greatly, and don't forget to use the original nissan gaskets (preferabbly with some permetex ultra copper SPRAY, stuff is bomb)
Anyways, me and Allblackmax fired the car up around 1am and proceeded to take turns driving/listening. From both veiw it sounds REALLY REALLY nice. Like a really nice honda actually, weird.
You keeping that thing polished for me?
Am I keeping what polished????
04-05-2009, 09:55 AM
#8
The headers bolt right up if you shave a little of the crossmember and for some shave the motor mount a bit. I agree that this may not be a jack stands install and a lift would be greatly benificial.
04-05-2009, 02:38 PM
#9
I wouldn't think that these would be much harder than the Cattman's to install and I installed my Cattman's with the car on jackstand's...their really not as hard as people make them out to be if you know what your doing.
04-05-2009, 02:59 PM
#10
I just had this done and I also have Spacers, OBX Headers, 2.5" exhaust, test pipe and GAB mod tuned with a VAFC and I put down 242whp. Car feels alot better, but the test pipe causes alot of rasp in the exhaust note and it's very honda fart-can at the moment. I'm gonna get a high flow one soon, but they said the headers were a little of a pain. They had to extend the rear O2 sensor.
04-05-2009, 03:41 PM
#11
I don't know if I would go as far as to say it's a lift only job...I put my Cattman's on in my garage with only some jackstands under the front. The only thing I could see a problem with the OBX's is that the rear header is welded to the y-pipe instead of being able to be unbolted. I remember putting mine in seemed hard to get to the bolts and what not but after putting the stock ones back one without even loosening the crossmember or anything like that, I don't think the headers are that bad.
Am I keeping what polished????
Am I keeping what polished????
What kev is telling you is a good bit of info and I would take it into consideration...
OBX's are mass produced and never qualilty checked so everyone's purchase could be a little different. So that is why one may find it easy to install and others find it to be a *****.
04-06-2009, 01:00 AM
#12
Yeah, I installed some on a 02 auto and the cross member was shaved about 1/4" along the edge! The rear motor mount bracket was also shaved about 1/2" to clear primary tube, the header can be turned sideways and installed on a garage floor with jack stands, the most important thing to do is lenghten your O2 sensor harness in the rear as well as drill the rear manifold for a new O2 bung location, 90 degrees to the right, of the (stupid *** location) rear facing bung which fits your sensor between the swaybar and the rack & pinion. ready to be broke off under your first hard acceleration!
04-06-2009, 01:31 PM
#13
So what's the general concencus here??? Is it worth saving the $500 to buy the OBX and have some fitment issues? And where you guys grinded on the crossmember, did you have to take it out to grind it or was it on the bottom? Also, has anybody else besides CMax03 had problems with the rear O2 bung? If the fitment is horrible I will say screw it and buy another set of Cattman Gen III's and save up for a tune and go without spacers for a while.
Last edited by pimpin02max; 04-06-2009 at 01:33 PM.
04-06-2009, 03:42 PM
#14
So what's the general concencus here??? Is it worth saving the $500 to buy the OBX and have some fitment issues? And where you guys grinded on the crossmember, did you have to take it out to grind it or was it on the bottom? Also, has anybody else besides CMax03 had problems with the rear O2 bung? If the fitment is horrible I will say screw it and buy another set of Cattman Gen III's and save up for a tune and go without spacers for a while.
they also said thay had to legnthen the rear O2 sensor. I think the OBX headers are just fine, you'll like how the car feels. Especially when I got them for $400 shipped priority, I can't complain about price.
04-06-2009, 06:12 PM
#15
If I could do it again I would do exactly what I did. The cattmans are good and they make high quality products but when you look at some of the gains the new obx design puts out it seems like a good choice. I cant say how they will hold up though over time. They are not bad quality so I would think they would last.
04-06-2009, 07:47 PM
#16
these seem quite interesting. now im thinkin bout getting a set. so my question is. where and what needs to be extended/relocated as far as the o2 sensors go. i think i would rather extend my sensors than to get o2 sim. i know we have 4 sensors, which needs to be extended and where should new bungs be welded? am i better off gettin a high flow cart and welding the bungs on that?
04-06-2009, 07:53 PM
#17
these seem quite interesting. now im thinkin bout getting a set. so my question is. where and what needs to be extended/relocated as far as the o2 sensors go. i think i would rather extend my sensors than to get o2 sim. i know we have 4 sensors, which needs to be extended and where should new bungs be welded? am i better off gettin a high flow cart and welding the bungs on that?
1. I know on the Cattman's, just the front ones had to be extended but on the OBX's they have the secondary O2's plugged in so I would imagine you would have to extend all 4.
2. The O2 sim is very easy and cheap to install...took me about 5 minutes when I had my cattman's, don't know if you need it with these since the secondaries have bungs and will be plugged in but I'm sure the reading will be off so I'm sure they would be needed.
3. Also the only bung that needs to be changed is on the rear manifold, instead of it being on the very back of the header it needs to be on the side toward the passenger side like the Cattman's. (CMax03 said that)
Let me know if you need help with any other header questions...trust me I did tons and tons of research last winter before I installed my Gen III's so I know all the little tidbits of info.
04-06-2009, 08:37 PM
#18
So what's the general concencus here??? Is it worth saving the $500 to buy the OBX and have some fitment issues? And where you guys grinded on the crossmember, did you have to take it out to grind it or was it on the bottom? Also, has anybody else besides CMax03 had problems with the rear O2 bung? If the fitment is horrible I will say screw it and buy another set of Cattman Gen III's and save up for a tune and go without spacers for a while.
I personally thought the finish was attractive, but all those O2 sensor bungs all on the same secondary (3???). That rear header manifold O2 bung placement between the swaybar and rack & pinion!!! What were they smoking? The grinding to make sure the part fit without rubbing a hole in it....or through samething else. The flex section seemed to be too short so I had to tighten it gradually little by little to prevent from warping the collector flange but stretching that flex section like that could possible retire it prematurely.
As for Dizmax96 wanting to install the O2 sensors in all the bungs instead of installing an O2 simulator, you're gonna get what everyone gets who deletes their precats and doesn't install the magnificent Hi-tech gadget for the modern hod rodder, A NICE BIG CEL!!! Don't try to make a new path just take the one that's been paved, tested and proven to work....the O2 Simulator! Buy some bung plugs or install some 18mm spark plugs.... in those useless bungs!
Last edited by CMax03; 04-06-2009 at 08:39 PM.
04-07-2009, 05:55 AM
#19
I Have Cattman header's, WSP MS and Cattman exhaust thru out, due to the fitment and high quality that Cattman always has been know for... I believe that you get what you pay for....It's your money so you spend it on what's good for you and your needs. Hell if you wanted to solder some tubes together to make a header assembly that's you!
I personally thought the finish was attractive, but all those O2 sensor bungs all on the same secondary (3???). That rear header manifold O2 bung placement between the swaybar and rack & pinion!!! What were they smoking? The grinding to make sure the part fit without rubbing a hole in it....or through samething else. The flex section seemed to be too short so I had to tighten it gradually little by little to prevent from warping the collector flange but stretching that flex section like that could possible retire it prematurely.
As for Dizmax96 wanting to install the O2 sensors in all the bungs instead of installing an O2 simulator, you're gonna get what everyone gets who deletes their precats and doesn't install the magnificent Hi-tech gadget for the modern hod rodder, A NICE BIG CEL!!! Don't try to make a new path just take the one that's been paved, tested and proven to work....the O2 Simulator! Buy some bung plugs or install some 18mm spark plugs.... in those useless bungs!
I personally thought the finish was attractive, but all those O2 sensor bungs all on the same secondary (3???). That rear header manifold O2 bung placement between the swaybar and rack & pinion!!! What were they smoking? The grinding to make sure the part fit without rubbing a hole in it....or through samething else. The flex section seemed to be too short so I had to tighten it gradually little by little to prevent from warping the collector flange but stretching that flex section like that could possible retire it prematurely.
As for Dizmax96 wanting to install the O2 sensors in all the bungs instead of installing an O2 simulator, you're gonna get what everyone gets who deletes their precats and doesn't install the magnificent Hi-tech gadget for the modern hod rodder, A NICE BIG CEL!!! Don't try to make a new path just take the one that's been paved, tested and proven to work....the O2 Simulator! Buy some bung plugs or install some 18mm spark plugs.... in those useless bungs!
04-07-2009, 12:17 PM
#21
www.o2sim.com
Make sure you get just 1 universal dual resister, that's all you'll need. It's very very easy to wire up and if you do it right you can make it look like they are still in tact buy tucking the O2's under you engine cover.
Make sure you get just 1 universal dual resister, that's all you'll need. It's very very easy to wire up and if you do it right you can make it look like they are still in tact buy tucking the O2's under you engine cover.
04-07-2009, 01:07 PM
#23
I'm bringing my 2k2 in next month to have the OBX put on and I'm wanting to give the mechanic everything needed to 1. not have a CEL 2. Just have everything running nice with no major install hang-ups.
Can you guys give me a list of recommended parts, etc to bring in when I have them installed.
For instance:
1. O2 sim (seems to be recommended)
2. ?
3. ?
Thanks in advance...
Can you guys give me a list of recommended parts, etc to bring in when I have them installed.
For instance:
1. O2 sim (seems to be recommended)
2. ?
3. ?
Thanks in advance...
04-07-2009, 01:19 PM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Kershaw SC
Posts: 4
Thanks pimpin02max & Oolatec
04-07-2009, 01:44 PM
#25
I'm bringing my 2k2 in next month to have the OBX put on and I'm wanting to give the mechanic everything needed to 1. not have a CEL 2. Just have everything running nice with no major install hang-ups.
Can you guys give me a list of recommended parts, etc to bring in when I have them installed.
For instance:
1. O2 sim (seems to be recommended)
2. ?
3. ?
Thanks in advance...
Can you guys give me a list of recommended parts, etc to bring in when I have them installed.
For instance:
1. O2 sim (seems to be recommended)
2. ?
3. ?
Thanks in advance...
04-07-2009, 03:08 PM
#26
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1
Out of curioustiy. After looking at a coulpe of turbo kits available for the 5th gen maxima 00-01, do aftermarket headers really need to be bought if you anticipate installing a turbo kit because a majority of kits come with header that can withstand the heat.
04-07-2009, 03:17 PM
#27
okay.. so wat i was tryin to say.. and after i read the faqs again on headers.. my thoughts were to extend the rear o2 behind the main cat. that would work wouldnt it? instead of having the rear connected and hangin around or have resistors made and all that.. jus saying.. i would be alright with extending the rears .. correct?
04-07-2009, 06:05 PM
#28
Last edited by diverdown3; 04-08-2009 at 06:11 AM.
04-08-2009, 12:29 AM
#29
True that! Plug them in and use a dual O2 simulator would be my option as well! This OBX header install was on a follow Orger's 02 Maxima not mine!
04-08-2009, 12:48 AM
#30
I'm bringing my 2k2 in next month to have the OBX put on and I'm wanting to give the mechanic everything needed to 1. not have a CEL 2. Just have everything running nice with no major install hang-ups.
Can you guys give me a list of recommended parts, etc to bring in when I have them installed.
For instance:
1. O2 sim (seems to be recommended)
2. ?
3. ?
Thanks in advance...
Can you guys give me a list of recommended parts, etc to bring in when I have them installed.
For instance:
1. O2 sim (seems to be recommended)
2. ?
3. ?
Thanks in advance...
just get OEM gaskets and you should be set. Your headers should come with all the hardware. You MAY want to get anti seizing grease so if and when the nuts get rusted on the studs, nothing gets crossthreaded. I do that...it's cheap and takes no time really. But that's up to you. DEFINITELY get new gaskets though
1. Dual O2 Simulator
2. 18mm O2 sensor bung/plug (relocate to pass side of manifold)
3. Tap to clean nuts threads
4. Anti-seize
5. Nissan Oem exhaust gasket are reuseable (laminate stainless steel), replace if crack or burn thru exist!
6. 24 gauge wire to extend the rear O2 sensor further down to the rear exhaust header manifold...Extend on the chassis harness side it's easier!
7. Tiewraps
Do you have your OBX headers on hand already?
04-08-2009, 06:17 AM
#31
just get OEM gaskets and you should be set. Your headers should come with all the hardware. You MAY want to get anti seizing grease so if and when the nuts get rusted on the studs, nothing gets crossthreaded. I do that...it's cheap and takes no time really. But that's up to you. DEFINITELY get new gaskets though
04-08-2009, 08:38 AM
#32
I'll like to add my $.02... regarding things you will need...
1. Dual O2 Simulator
2. 18mm O2 sensor bung/plug (relocate to pass side of manifold)
3. Tap to clean nuts threads
4. Anti-seize
5. Nissan Oem exhaust gasket are reuseable (laminate stainless steel), replace if crack or burn thru exist!
6. 24 gauge wire to extend the rear O2 sensor further down to the rear exhaust header manifold...Extend on the chassis harness side it's easier!
7. Tiewraps
Do you have your OBX headers on hand already?
1. Dual O2 Simulator
2. 18mm O2 sensor bung/plug (relocate to pass side of manifold)
3. Tap to clean nuts threads
4. Anti-seize
5. Nissan Oem exhaust gasket are reuseable (laminate stainless steel), replace if crack or burn thru exist!
6. 24 gauge wire to extend the rear O2 sensor further down to the rear exhaust header manifold...Extend on the chassis harness side it's easier!
7. Tiewraps
Do you have your OBX headers on hand already?
If you want to see them, here you go:
04-08-2009, 09:42 AM
#33
Yeah, those are the same I installed on that other 02. If you notice the rear manifold O2 bung is facing rearward this will be fitted in between the swaybar and the rack and pinion assy. m drill a new hole 90 degrees to the right on the passenger side of the header.
04-08-2009, 10:07 AM
#34
Maybe I need a brief description on what all the bungs in this header are for...
Can you help me out?
04-08-2009, 10:57 AM
#35
Ok... Im a little confused as what to do with all the bungs. Do I not just buy some 18mm bung plugs to plug all of the holes and run a universal dual output o2 sim to make up for not having the regular o2s?
Maybe I need a brief description on what all the bungs in this header are for...
Can you help me out?
Maybe I need a brief description on what all the bungs in this header are for...
Can you help me out?
04-08-2009, 04:11 PM
#36
Ok... Im a little confused as what to do with all the bungs. Do I not just buy some 18mm bung plugs to plug all of the holes and run a universal dual output o2 sim to make up for not having the regular o2s?
Maybe I need a brief description on what all the bungs in this header are for...
Can you help me out?
Maybe I need a brief description on what all the bungs in this header are for...
Can you help me out?
04-09-2009, 09:49 AM
#37
You only need to buy one bung female fitting and one bung plug! The plug will fit in the rear header manifold fitting you can locktite it in or weld it into the original OBX fitting on the rear header manifold. DRILL A NEW HOLE IN THE REAR HEADER COLLECTOR 90 DEGREES TO THE RIGHT (PASSENGER SIDE) OF THE ORIGINAL WHICH WILL NOW BE PLUGGED, AND WELD IN THE NEW BUNG FITTING!!!!!!! . As for the other bungs install the secondary O2 sensor they will fit/reach, and you install the O2 simulator for them! EASY!!! PM ME if you have further questions!
Now... I was wondering if you are running an Apexi SAFC2 or something of that nature as well. I see a lot of folks saying that after the header install you'll actually lose power from your engine running too rich.
What's your take on this?
Is it absolutely necessary to have one of these for your car to run right?
Does anyone have headers without the SAFC2?
How does yours run without it?
04-09-2009, 10:54 AM
#38
Thanks bro... I think I have my head wrapped around this o2 sim deal.
Now... I was wondering if you are running an Apexi SAFC2 or something of that nature as well. I see a lot of folks saying that after the header install you'll actually lose power from your engine running too rich.
What's your take .this?
Is it absolutely necessary to have one of these for your car to run right?
Does anyone have headers without the SAFC2?
How does yours run without it?
Now... I was wondering if you are running an Apexi SAFC2 or something of that nature as well. I see a lot of folks saying that after the header install you'll actually lose power from your engine running too rich.
What's your take .this?
Is it absolutely necessary to have one of these for your car to run right?
Does anyone have headers without the SAFC2?
How does yours run without it?
04-09-2009, 01:20 PM
#39
I'm running Cattman entire exhaust, Headers and all except ( WSP MS Cat)! I'm not sure what my AFR is at WOT (exactly), but I can guarantee you while in closed loop operation it's running 14.7 or leaner as per the ECU. Unless you run around 100% with your foot to the floor and in open loop you're not gonna hurt your cat! I'm running only a 14.6 best in the 1/4 mi., with a 2.171 60ft, 93.35 mph trap in my 03 auto. But I'm gonna do a TS reprogram, chg my plugs/coil packs and install NWP spacers while in there b4 I even think about an Apexi safc! It's just for some extra power to fine tune your parameters but during normal driving and in the closed loop you'll be just fine. I'll be checking my AFR friday with my wideband...I'll kep you updated ok...
So you installed yours without a tune. Did you notice much gain after? Much difference in sound?
I'm just trying to figure all this out before I take it in next month. I need to be happy after dropping all this loot.
Thanks for bearing with me here...
Hopefully some of this info will be useful to others looking to upgrade their performance as well.
