5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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So i just bought a 2000 maxima se and life was good. Until 2 days ago i go to drop my friend off and i am coming home and whamm.. service engine light comes on. I was hoping it was either the gas cap or my cold air intake became lose again. Check them both and nothing. So i try disconnecting the battery and still came back. So i went to get it checked out and it came back with code p0139, which is a bad o2 sensor in bank 1 sensor 2. The guy there said he didnt know if it was after catalytic front or after catalytic converter back, and there is a huge price difference and honestly i cant afford to buy both. So does anybody know if it is front or back for code p0139. My car is a 5sp manual the mechanic said that made a difference.
It's the one after the rear pre-cat (if cali spec) or main cat (if federal spec). If replacing with OEM sensor (not universal) it's the one with the white wire.
Diagram below is for California spec vehicles.
I got a 2000 Maxima with CEL for about a month now and can not figure it out. I stopped by autozone and the code read, Po171 Bank 1 and Po174 Bank 2. Which o2 sensors are these? Thanks for any help! Could it be a bad MAF? Car seem to run fine.
I got a 2000 Maxima with CEL for about a month now and can not figure it out. I stopped by autozone and the code read, Po171 Bank 1 and Po174 Bank 2. Which o2 sensors are these? Thanks for any help! Could it be a bad MAF? Car seem to run fine.
For a lot of org members, replacing the MAF seemed to have cleared those codes and solved the problem.
I didn't go too deep while searching for those 2 codes and possible solutions. I did find out that it's fuel injector related. I would try one of those injector cleaners before starting replacing parts. Also, I would monitor the fuel efficiency very closely to see if there's any decrease in the mpg's, provided you have something to compare it to.
Last time I cleaned my MAF it did not have a "U shaped wire" on it too (2000), check the "clearn MAF for under $10" thread and there's more info on that.
How do i figure out if my car is federal spec or california specs?
Under the hood, there is an emission related label. Towards the buttom it reads "this vehicle conforms to US EPA NLEV regulations applicable....." . If that label has the word "california" in it, it's a California spec. Also, if the numbers of connectors right between the front of the engine and the radiator is 4, then it is a Cali Spec. Otherwise it is Federal.
Under the hood, there is an emission related label. Towards the buttom it reads "this vehicle conforms to US EPA NLEV regulations applicable....." . If that label has the word "california" in it, it's a California spec. Also, if the numbers of connectors right between the front of the engine and the radiator is 4, then it is a Cali Spec. Otherwise it is Federal.
Damn my CEL came back on.
Freaking same codes as before - Po171 Bank 1 and Po174 Bank 2
Dont know if it the o2 sensors, the MAF or fuel injectors? I ran some fuel injection cleaner, could not find any leaks and cleaned MAF.
What should I do?
Do I start with the MAF then the o2 sensors..........
It is not too hard to replace, it is right in the middle so I jacked up the front end and crawled in from the driver's side. Mine was in tight and the exhaust system had too much flexibility to get a good torque on it so I had someone hold a long 2x2 against the bracket to provide some resistance while I reefed on it.
It helps to have an O2 socket so you can put an end wrench on the socket and get some extra leverage. I couldn't get a good bite with just an end wrench on the sensor.
The code has not come back so far. Hope that helps.
Damn my CEL came back on.
Freaking same codes as before - Po171 Bank 1 and Po174 Bank 2
Dont know if it the o2 sensors, the MAF or fuel injectors? I ran some fuel injection cleaner, could not find any leaks and cleaned MAF.
What should I do?
Do I start with the MAF then the o2 sensors..........
Since both are reading too lean I would expect it to be something that relates to both, like the MAF. They both came on at the same time it is unlikely that both failed at the same time. Unless it was your very first time driving at highway speeds after you bought the car.
To test the MAF get on the highway at about 50 MPH. Floor it and if the engine revs up (~4,000 RPM) but there is no power and/or it doesn't shift then it is probably the MAF. If it pulls fine then your MAF is probably okay.
Caveat - from what I have read MAFs fail in a myriad of ways and what I described above is just how mine failed and how I determined it failed. You can also just check the voltage at various RPMs, but that is a little more intrusive.
I have 2002 6-speed. Got the check engine soon warning, changed the sensor at the gas tank and light went out. Now 3 weeks later the light is on again. Do ya think it is the O2 sensor?? Thanks Gary
I have 2002 6-speed. Got the check engine soon warning, changed the sensor at the gas tank and light went out. Now 3 weeks later the light is on again. Do ya think it is the O2 sensor?? Thanks Gary
Sorry but a dumb question. How do I get the codes?? I have had 2 of these cars (Maximas) and not like my old 76 honda civic which i serviced myself. Time to join the 21 century. Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks G
The same way you got them (codes) in your first post LOL, just go to any auto zone in your area they check it for free,also if you just got the car I would change all fluids with the best brand in my opinion and dont beat on it everyday if you dont want more problems
does anyone have the issue where the SES light comes on, then a few days later, it goes off..then a month or so later, it comes back on...few days later its off...anyone? I took it to Autozone and it's the O2 sensor bank 2 i think they said. But if its bad why does the SES light go on and off??
does anyone have the issue where the SES light comes on, then a few days later, it goes off..then a month or so later, it comes back on...few days later its off...anyone? I took it to Autozone and it's the O2 sensor bank 2 i think they said. But if its bad why does the SES light go on and off??
The O2 sensor can come back in range. There are several codes associated with the O2 sensor (see here) and if they come back in range the code can reset. I don't know the exact mileage or duration for it to reset and if it is only for specific codes, but that could have been what happened.
For example, I had P0138 and P0139 for the rear O2 sensor. After about a week the SES light went off, presumably because there was nothing wrong in the first place (my MAF was on the fritz).
Best thing you can do is when the SES light comes back on pull the code. It is not bad if it goes on and off (caveat, it is bad if you reset it without diagnosing and fixing the problem). How many miles are on your max?
Just bought a 1999 Maxima SE. The wife put about 10 gallons of 87 octane when the low fuel light came on. I filled the tank with 93 octane and checked the fuel cap, but the SES light stays on. Had the OBD scanned and came up with O2 sensor and Knock Sensor codes. I authorized the shop to clean the fuel system--they did not say this would clear the SES light--but I went ahead and had it done. There are no drivabilty issues. Could the lower octane trigger the SES light?
Just bought a 1999 Maxima SE. The wife put about 10 gallons of 87 octane when the low fuel light came on. I filled the tank with 93 octane and checked the fuel cap, but the SES light stays on. Had the OBD scanned and came up with O2 sensor and Knock Sensor codes. I authorized the shop to clean the fuel system--they did not say this would clear the SES light--but I went ahead and had it done. There are no drivabilty issues. Could the lower octane trigger the SES light?
The low octane gas caused your engine to knock. Your engine detected the knocking and set the SES light. I am surprised it would happen with only one tank of gas, but these engines (at least mine) knocks badly with anything less than premium.
I am not sure why the O2 sensor was on, but my guess is that it didn't have anything to do with using regular gas. Do you know what the code was for the O2 sensor?
Cleaning the fuel system has no affect on the knocking. Unfortunately that was probably a waste of money. Or should I say an investment in your local auto shop
Either get the actual codes, or run through a couple tankfuls of premium.
Yes, you can drive the car with the SES light on if you have no other issues, but at some point you may have to deal with it. Give it some time with a different (premium) gas and see if the SES light goes out. The O2 sensor code and the SES light may have been triggered by a higher amount of ethanol (puts more O2 into the exhaust) in that particular gasoline that your wife bought, particularly if you have a marginal O2 sensor or cat. BUT, the pinging by itself will not set a code, or put on the SES light. A "failed" knock sensor will also NOT put on the SES light, but as you do supposedly have the code for the knock sensor it may actually have failed. But run for a bit with the premium gas and see if that stops the pinging no.1, and see how the performance is (lots of "snap", and reasonable fuel mileage), and also see if the SES light goes out. Some members on this forum in the past have reported poor performance (probably from retarded timing) and then later on discovered the failed knock sensor.
The O2 sensor can come back in range. There are several codes associated with the O2 sensor (see here) and if they come back in range the code can reset. I don't know the exact mileage or duration for it to reset and if it is only for specific codes, but that could have been what happened.
For example, I had P0138 and P0139 for the rear O2 sensor. After about a week the SES light went off, presumably because there was nothing wrong in the first place (my MAF was on the fritz).
Best thing you can do is when the SES light comes back on pull the code. It is not bad if it goes on and off (caveat, it is bad if you reset it without diagnosing and fixing the problem). How many miles are on your max?
Ive sneaking up on 118,000... I changed out the O2 sensor with a Bosch one I got @ autozone, but it came back on last night... DAMNIT
Thanks for the info. I will run a few tanks of premium and go from there.
its acutally not very good to be switching up gas like that. Once you start with one, stick with it. I would recommend trying a fuel additive before changing fuel types. I've personally stuck with mid grade and every 4 months use the BG 44K fuel additive.. Works great! Look into that...
Berto210.......I don't know where you got that idea from, but it's incorrect. The Maxi's recommended fuel is a minimum rating (US/Canada) of 91 octane to start with and changing immediately to the recommended fuel is an advantage and not what you suggested (and don't get me going on additives!!). Limiting the use of fuel with ethanol (I know that's difficult in the states) if you can, may be helpful if you encounter what happened to eutecticpt.
Ive sneaking up on 118,000... I changed out the O2 sensor with a Bosch one I got @ autozone, but it came back on last night... DAMNIT
When did you change the O2 sensor? If it is less than 20K miles (assuming you changed it around 100K) it is probably not the O2 sensor. Has your MAF been replaced?
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