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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

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Old 11-24-2008, 12:10 AM   #1
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CV boot kit or new drive axle?

Hey guys. My CV boots are shot (which is a nasty mess under the car) and I was wondering what the expert opinion would be in regard to repairing them. My friend says I should put new drive axle's on both sides ($100 each) since dirt, grime and moisture can get in the joint.

Are there better (cheaper and effective) options?

Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2008, 12:44 AM   #2
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That's a fast, CLEAN way to do it. You'll probably getting reman axle's for that price.

I just replaced both of mine. Just be sure to replace both of your seals when you do.
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Old 11-24-2008, 01:35 AM   #3
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www.autohausaz.com. the parts are brand new and fairly cheap too.
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:33 AM   #4
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I haven't used them, but i've heard www.raxles.com has great replacement axles for our cars.
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:18 AM   #5
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I just did what felt like my whole front end a week ago... I had been wanting to change the shot wheel bearing upfront (both, because I didn't know which was bad) and started that process and when jacking the car up.... noticed CV boot blown out on passenger side. BOOOO! So I was going to do the $15.00 fix from AutoZone with a boot repair kit, but then started to think that "I have a 2000 Max SE with 101,000 miles on it, the other side will go soon too." Ok now what get two boot kits? I called Nissan to check on the hub bearings, get ordered, how much to press in new ones etc. etc. and tech. told me that I could get new axles for a little bit more so, "Why not he said." So I started checking on them. O'Rielly had passenger side for ~$69.00 plus core and driver for ~$59.00 plus core. I'm here taking everything else a part, and I do plan on driving it for another 100,000 miles so the new axles where a must to me. The tech also menioned that all they do when they swap axles, at the dealership, is get them from the local parts store and they are refurb's too, so no problem. FUNNY thing was is when I got down to the work and pulled the axle out you can see on the boot a "100K" marking on the boot... which told me they were 100,000 mile boots and what luck mine blows at 101,000. So I knew then changing both side was inevitable.

All and all: I changed both axles, both hub assembly's, both hub bearings. Original knuckles/spindles were still ok. Had to replace about 2 1/2 quarts of transaxle fluid... about what dripped out when axles were pulled.

A few tips I would give before someone else changed there front end... Get a slide hammer, makes pulling hub assembly out of bearing easier (I didn't know this and had to run and get one, annoying) and leave spindle on car, before removing with slide hammer (I disassembled and had spindle off thinking dealership would do what they needed to get old stuff off and new in) You need to bring them the spindle with the hub assembly out before they will press old stuff out and replace new. The transaxle oil WILL come out when you pull the axles, I read on here in a post that they won't leak anything out... they do (that poster must have been low) Get some new tie rod ends, if you have as many miles as I do, why not replace while you are there. Plus when I was removing mine the boots burst anyways, even though I was being careful. ***The bottom nut (the one that connects spindle to the lower control arm) is a doosie... I rounded one of mine and getting a replacement meant ordering one so that delayed the job 3 days. Its not a 18 mil or 19 mil, both wanted to act like they were the one thats why I stripped it... rather is a 3/4.

And to the post about getting new seals... both mine looked good no leak and not any now either... I should probably changed that while I was there, but will have fun taking it apart to do it at a needed time now.

Transaxle Fluid used was Royal Purple 15-90W full syn. (good for G4 and G5) was pricey at $15.99 a quart though.

To close I was going to do new brakes and rotor while I was there, but a week it took to do the rest so will have to get later.

I wish now I had took pictures the whole way through to post up an informative here, but I'm sure I'll have a free Sunday down the road to tear apart again...
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:29 PM   #6
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I just changed my passenger boot

If you don't mind getting dirty and if your boot hasnt been ripped too long (then the bearings are still good) you could change the boot

check out the thread here:

Is axle all the way in?
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Old 08-24-2009, 08:46 PM   #7
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Drive axle replacement 2000 Nissan Maxima

Hey man, I just did the passenger side on my 2000 Max. Let me tell you a few things. 1) you don't leak any fluid - you must be way overfilled. 2) That nut where the LCA meets the spindle is an 18mil not a 3/4 (it's an import!) 3) You don't need a slide hammer at all. That axle slides right on out once you get it clear of the spindle & take those 3 bolts off.

What I learned on this job as a home mechanic is it's a real p.i.t.a! On my '00 I've done the radiator (easy), belts (fairly easy), alternator (p.i.t.a.) and now the passenger side drive axle - what a biotch! It all started @ 140K. I now have 144K. I don't think I've ever had to do a repair except an 02 sensor before. Amazin! I love the Max.

Here is how I fixed mine:
If all goes well - 2.5 hour job + cleanup for passenger side.

CHECKLIST (for passenger side) I haven't done the driver side yet.
1) get 32 mil socket and rent a breaker bar
2) get 19 mil deep socket which you'll also need in conjunction w/ the breaker bar.
3) get lots of rags, b/c you're going to get nasty.
4) you'll need 10 mil, 12 mil, 18 mil sockets. Both large and small socket wrenches too. A small ratchet with a pivot would be best ideal for these 3 nasty bolts - see axle mounting bolts.
5) you'll need 12 mil box wrench for sure (to take the 3 axle mounting bolts off)
6 you'll need a good friend. The girlfriend is no good unless she is hard core and loves you a lot! That axle is heavy and someone's got to get on their *** and guide that thing into place.
7) Headlamps! You'll never see the mounting bolts w/out 'em.
8) curved needle nose. Straight will work, but curved are better. Those damn cotter pins respond better to the curved pliers.
9) WD 40 & lots of it.
10) atleast a 2 lb hammer
11) heavy duty long flat head screwdriver

Here's how to do it:
1) loosen tire and jack up car.
2) take tire off & remove cotter pin from axle shaft
3) remove your little nissan cap from within your rim
4) put that tire back on and lower the car
5) use 32 mil w/ breaker bar to loosen axle nut
6) jack that car back up & take off tire
7) pull out cotter pin from steering knuckle nut
8) remove steering bolt (18 mil)
9) remove the brake hose locking pin (or fork) using long flat head by prying it somehow. It's not that hard.
10) take off brake hose bracket. (10 mil)
11) take off wheel well splash guard (10 mil) & phillips head maybe? I just yanked those stupid plastic pins right out of mine.
12) loosen axle lug nut until it extends just beyond the axle.
13) hose off that axle and spindle with WD 40.
14) rap away on the nut at the end of the axle w/ that 2 lb hammer. Be careful not to damage the axle threads b/c your auto store will be mad about giving you your core money for those busted axle threads.
15) keep rapping on that nut and spray some more WD 40 in there.
16) remove the 2 bolts on the strut. The nut is a deep socket 19 mil. The bolt is an 18 mil. You'll need the breaker bar.
17) Your spindle should want to slide right on out. If it doesn't, keep rapping on that axle nut and applying more WD 40.
18) It'll finally bust loose and slide very nicely out. No forced pulling required here. Just take that big nut off & firmly get that strut outta the way and push that spindle on down.
19) get your *** deep under the car and find those 3 inward facing bolts.
20) pray to god
21) take 12 mil box wrench and loosen what you can. Take small 12 mil ratchet and go to town. Get your friend also for this one.
22) that top bolt requires turning your small ratchet verticle; with your *** on the ground get your homey to reach in there and crank the ratchet and you hold it on the bolt.
23) the bolt between the oil pan & heat shield is the 12 mil box all the way. This one takes a while and some skinny fingers. Get ready for some cuts on the hand too.
24) all 3 bolts can be finger loosened / tightened if you live in the south. If you're a salty road driver. I don't know what to tell you. Move south I guess and get a new car.
25) ok so you miraculously got the bolts off. They go on much easier in a minute tho.
26) get your buddy and get back under the car yourself
27) have your buddy pull out the axle, it should come out like a champ now. You just have to lay on your back and guide it out while your buddy pulls
28) might as well stay under their while he gets the new one and you just have to guide it back in. Keep it gentle and don't damage the seal around your tranny.
29) it should go back in nice and easy. Once it's lined up, it will go in very smooth.
30) fye (edification) - those 3 bolts go back on much easier than they came off - have your buddy help you line up the holes to get started.
31) keep putting stuff back together.
32) OK, now you got it all back on and you got a new nut with your new axle. So use it.
33) put that tire back on and lower the car.
34) tighten the s&*t outta that axle nut 203 lb torque I think. Thats like a big boy standin on your breaker bar.
35) raise that thing back up, and take the tire off & put that cotter pin back in.
36) set her back down and drive off.
37) go get an alignment if you need.

Cheers!


Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Rod View Post
I just did what felt like my whole front end a week ago... I had been wanting to change the shot wheel bearing upfront (both, because I didn't know which was bad) and started that process and when jacking the car up.... noticed CV boot blown out on passenger side. BOOOO! So I was going to do the $15.00 fix from AutoZone with a boot repair kit, but then started to think that "I have a 2000 Max SE with 101,000 miles on it, the other side will go soon too." Ok now what get two boot kits? I called Nissan to check on the hub bearings, get ordered, how much to press in new ones etc. etc. and tech. told me that I could get new axles for a little bit more so, "Why not he said." So I started checking on them. O'Rielly had passenger side for ~$69.00 plus core and driver for ~$59.00 plus core. I'm here taking everything else a part, and I do plan on driving it for another 100,000 miles so the new axles where a must to me. The tech also menioned that all they do when they swap axles, at the dealership, is get them from the local parts store and they are refurb's too, so no problem. FUNNY thing was is when I got down to the work and pulled the axle out you can see on the boot a "100K" marking on the boot... which told me they were 100,000 mile boots and what luck mine blows at 101,000. So I knew then changing both side was inevitable.

All and all: I changed both axles, both hub assembly's, both hub bearings. Original knuckles/spindles were still ok. Had to replace about 2 1/2 quarts of transaxle fluid... about what dripped out when axles were pulled.

A few tips I would give before someone else changed there front end... Get a slide hammer, makes pulling hub assembly out of bearing easier (I didn't know this and had to run and get one, annoying) and leave spindle on car, before removing with slide hammer (I disassembled and had spindle off thinking dealership would do what they needed to get old stuff off and new in) You need to bring them the spindle with the hub assembly out before they will press old stuff out and replace new. The transaxle oil WILL come out when you pull the axles, I read on here in a post that they won't leak anything out... they do (that poster must have been low) Get some new tie rod ends, if you have as many miles as I do, why not replace while you are there. Plus when I was removing mine the boots burst anyways, even though I was being careful. ***The bottom nut (the one that connects spindle to the lower control arm) is a doosie... I rounded one of mine and getting a replacement meant ordering one so that delayed the job 3 days. Its not a 18 mil or 19 mil, both wanted to act like they were the one thats why I stripped it... rather is a 3/4.

And to the post about getting new seals... both mine looked good no leak and not any now either... I should probably changed that while I was there, but will have fun taking it apart to do it at a needed time now.

Transaxle Fluid used was Royal Purple 15-90W full syn. (good for G4 and G5) was pricey at $15.99 a quart though.

To close I was going to do new brakes and rotor while I was there, but a week it took to do the rest so will have to get later.

I wish now I had took pictures the whole way through to post up an informative here, but I'm sure I'll have a free Sunday down the road to tear apart again...
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Old 08-24-2009, 09:01 PM   #8
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Do the axles. More effective in the long run. I wouldn't replace the output shaft seals unless they are leaking.
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Old 08-24-2009, 09:20 PM   #9
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Do the axels

I chose replace because the net cost after core return is so darn cheap.
Got mine from Napa.

Some things I learned. A channel wrench worked great as a lever to pop the seals out of the tranny. The "s" shape of one 1/2 of the wrench reached in just right. Replace the seals if you can; general practice is seems is to always try to replace the soft/rubber stuff related to the repair - seals, o-rings, gaskets.

If the car is jacked up on one side I haven't leaked trans fluid. If both sides are up then I did. Like about 2 quarts.

I never had much trouble getting the axel out of the knuckle. Just lucky I guess.

Driver side on a 93 was quite easy, once you get the hang of the force needed to pop the axel out and pop the new one in. I'd do it again for sure. Not hard.

Passenger side on a 1996 original axel was a real challenge. Freeing the axel from the mid support ARGH. I almost gave up 3 times. What finally worked was a combination of penetrating oil and knocking on the bold nubs with a hammer while pulling on the axel. Slowing I could rotate the axel about an inch one direction and the other and the outward force creeped it out.
I took a lot of rotations but eventually I walked it out. Alone too. Left are pulled the axel, right arm tapped the axeles knubs that the bolds when into.
Oh yeah, getting the 3 bolts out was a real challenge too. The upper one took real patience with a small regular wrench. I thought I was going to have to pull the exaust out

I was able to get the axel nuts off myself by bracing a long breaker bar across the lug bolts and sitting on the bar while pushing the extended ratched on the 36mm nut away from me. Looks funny.

Happy to elaborate on anything that sounds interesting here.

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Old 08-25-2009, 05:08 AM   #10
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If you decide to replace them altogether, don't get your axles from ANYWHERE except Raxles. Everything and everywhere else is absolute garbage in comparison.
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Old 08-25-2009, 06:05 AM   #11
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I went the cheap route on the daighter's Max and replaced just the boots as the boot kit was only $12.50 a side from NAPA. A lot more time comsuming, remove axles, then remove the outer joint from the axle shaft, cleaning, drying, inspecting, adding lube, install boot and cv joint to axle. A lot easier to just replace the axles.

Oh, and just for future referenmce, on that passenger side bearing support, heat works wonders.
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Old 09-09-2009, 10:58 PM   #12
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I'm having a hell of a time getting that stupid support bearing separated from the bracket. I think I'm just going to get a slide hammer and take the outer joint off and just replace the boot. I'm sure it's just easier to replace the whole axle, but not if you can't remove the thing. I know it's a hell of a lot easier on my MR2 and 240SX. What a horrible design this is...
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:27 AM   #13
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Remove the 3 bolts, then get a BIG pry bar.
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:39 AM   #14
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There is nothing on which to pry; that is the problem. It is my understanding that the carrier bearing has to come out for the axle to come out. I tried to see if I could remove the bracket, but that has 1 bolt that is blocked by the PS pump and 1 blocked by the Y-pipe. It looks like my options at this point are to try the chisel/heat/big hammer/time method, using a slide hammer to pop out the outer joint, or swallow my pride and take it somewhere and say "fix it".
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:53 AM   #15
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Heat. Cover sensor wires with a wet rag and use heat, then a sharp chisel in the grove. Just a little at a time all around the retainer and to the engine side. I used Mapp gas as I don't have torches.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:31 AM   #16
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When you go at the axle nut, make sure you have a decent breaker bar, otherwise you'll join the crowd of those who broke their breaker bar trying to get at the axle nut. I had been using an AutoZone bar for the longest but it proved to weak for the axle nut. Ended up buying a near $30 Craftsman.
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:09 PM   #17
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Well, I broke down and am taking it to the shop. It takes a lot for me to do that, but that seems like my only option at this point. That center bearing just isn't moving. I tried a bigger hammer and even an air chisel, and couldn't do more than chisel a small grove in the metal. I shouldn't have a problem with the driver's side, so I'll do that myself when I have a day free.

I even tried separating the outer joint using a 5 lb slide hammer. No go. When I do the passenger side, I think I'll replace the whole axle if I can't separate the joint. I don't mind messing with messy CV joints.
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Old 09-12-2009, 05:55 PM   #18
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Well, I have the boots already. Might as well just replace the boots on the driver's side. The question is whether the outer joint will pop out like the FSM says.
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:14 AM   #19
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I got new axles from Advance Auto (G.S.P.) for like $60 each. As soon as moisture gets into your torn boot, it will eat away at the bearings then you'll be changing axles anyway.

RAXLES allegedly makes great replacements, but they only do a drivers side for my 6 speed, 5.5 gen. for $219 I believe.
The passenger side was sort or a pain b/c I have high miles and the car was a PA car; just used an air chisel to break the old one free from the flange.
Driver's side was easy and I had that done in just a little over an hour.
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kallikak View Post
Well, I have the boots already. Might as well just replace the boots on the driver's side. The question is whether the outer joint will pop out like the FSM says.
It doesn't come out easily, at least not on the daughter's car. I needed to hit it with a hammer on a solid steel rod to get it to move off the axle. It was an effort in futility with a block of wood and a large hammer.
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:20 PM   #21
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beware that most reman's remove the vib damp'r ,, i would look and see if the boot would do it and not buy the reman.bn w/o the vib damp'r
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobradb View Post
beware that most reman's remove the vib damp'r ,, i would look and see if the boot would do it and not buy the reman.bn w/o the vib damp'r
Vibration damper? I don't have reman's, but new from Advance Auto.
What is it? Where is it?
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Old 10-11-2009, 03:58 PM   #23
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no answers here? Can anyone help or elaborate??
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Old 10-15-2009, 08:27 PM   #24
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Imagine that I looked under the car after the belts started to squeak and the cv boot is torn on both sides pasenger and drivers side. I am going to put the pasenger side in first since there are directions. Does anyone have the directions for the drivers side? Are they the same?
Also do I need to get an alignment after replacing the cv? I am planning to do both at the same time if all goes well but if they dont will save the other side for the weekend.
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Old 10-16-2009, 05:05 AM   #25
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Driver's side is easier. There is no bracket that mounts to the car.

Yes, an alignment would be beneficial.
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Old 10-16-2009, 06:49 AM   #26
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An alignment is needed if you are removing the lower strut bolts but you can steer away from that by removing the LCA.

Also, the vibration damper is VERY important. I'm having this issue due to the "Cardone Select Brand New" axle. It feels like the from wheels are both severely bent. I'm going with Raxle's next time.
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:09 AM   #27
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You can also change the boot without pulling the axle off the tranny. If just anchored the axle with channel locks and tapped on the other end to disconnect the splined section, cleaned everything up, put new boot on axle, insert into spline, grease it up, attach rings/ties, and reinstall into spindle. I must admit it would have been much quicker just changing the whole axle.
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:49 AM   #28
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An alignment is needed if you are removing the lower strut bolts but you can steer away from that by removing the LCA.
+1, that's how I did it.
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:52 AM   #29
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What is the LCA? Lower control arm??
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:55 AM   #30
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Yes.

The entire arm doesn't have to come off, just disconnect the balljoint and the sway bar link.
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Old 10-21-2009, 07:30 AM   #31
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Great DIY instructions....my Pass CVboot is gone...will probably take it to a mechanic know, I am handy but not that good with heavy duty stuff. Maybe some day.
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:49 AM   #32
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Here's how to do it:
1) loosen tire and jack up car.
2) take tire off & remove cotter pin from axle shaft
3) remove your little nissan cap from within your rim
4) put that tire back on and lower the car
5) use 32 mil w/ breaker bar to loosen axle nut
6) jack that car back up & take off tire
7) pull out cotter pin from steering knuckle nut
8) remove steering bolt (18 mil)
9) remove the brake hose locking pin (or fork) using long flat head by prying it somehow. It's not that hard.
10) take off brake hose bracket. (10 mil)
11) take off wheel well splash guard (10 mil) & phillips head maybe? I just yanked those stupid plastic pins right out of mine.
12) loosen axle lug nut until it extends just beyond the axle.
13) hose off that axle and spindle with WD 40.
14) rap away on the nut at the end of the axle w/ that 2 lb hammer. Be careful not to damage the axle threads b/c your auto store will be mad about giving you your core money for those busted axle threads.
15) keep rapping on that nut and spray some more WD 40 in there.
16) remove the 2 bolts on the strut. The nut is a deep socket 19 mil. The bolt is an 18 mil. You'll need the breaker bar.
17) Your spindle should want to slide right on out. If it doesn't, keep rapping on that axle nut and applying more WD 40.
18) It'll finally bust loose and slide very nicely out. No forced pulling required here. Just take that big nut off & firmly get that strut outta the way and push that spindle on down.
19) get your *** deep under the car and find those 3 inward facing bolts.
20) pray to god
21) take 12 mil box wrench and loosen what you can. Take small 12 mil ratchet and go to town. Get your friend also for this one.
22) that top bolt requires turning your small ratchet verticle; with your *** on the ground get your homey to reach in there and crank the ratchet and you hold it on the bolt.
23) the bolt between the oil pan & heat shield is the 12 mil box all the way. This one takes a while and some skinny fingers. Get ready for some cuts on the hand too.
24) all 3 bolts can be finger loosened / tightened if you live in the south. If you're a salty road driver. I don't know what to tell you. Move south I guess and get a new car.
25) ok so you miraculously got the bolts off. They go on much easier in a minute tho.
26) get your buddy and get back under the car yourself
27) have your buddy pull out the axle, it should come out like a champ now. You just have to lay on your back and guide it out while your buddy pulls
28) might as well stay under their while he gets the new one and you just have to guide it back in. Keep it gentle and don't damage the seal around your tranny.
29) it should go back in nice and easy. Once it's lined up, it will go in very smooth.
30) fye (edification) - those 3 bolts go back on much easier than they came off - have your buddy help you line up the holes to get started.
31) keep putting stuff back together.
32) OK, now you got it all back on and you got a new nut with your new axle. So use it.
33) put that tire back on and lower the car.
34) tighten the s&*t outta that axle nut 203 lb torque I think. Thats like a big boy standin on your breaker bar.
35) raise that thing back up, and take the tire off & put that cotter pin back in.
36) set her back down and drive off.
37) go get an alignment if you need.

Cheers![/quote]

I must say this is one of the best DIY's ever...so funny! I like Step 20: Pray to God.

Yup, you probably need to....LOL!

Great write up though!
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:51 AM   #33
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JoMaxima, great job and so funny! How's the axles?
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Old 11-05-2009, 08:08 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OOmaxSE View Post
An alignment is needed if you are removing the lower strut bolts but you can steer away from that by removing the LCA.

Also, the vibration damper is VERY important. I'm having this issue due to the "Cardone Select Brand New" axle. It feels like the from wheels are both severely bent. I'm going with Raxle's next time.
Vibration Damper??????? maybe this is why I have a vibration on my car that it is driving me crazy
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:10 PM   #35
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My 2000 Maxima is vibrating like mad!! Balanced tires and rotated them. It was suggested to replace the axels...perhaps, from reading this thread, I should do more. Is this true? I am now thinking the cv joints, if necessary, boots, vibration damper?, anything else to look for?
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Old 12-15-2009, 09:48 AM   #36
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Replace the whole Axle, just be sure to replace the Transaxle Seals too. Make sure the Front Driver Side Axle is seated. It has to be pushed in pretty hard to get the click that says it is in there all the way or you can ruin your hub
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Old 01-06-2010, 01:35 PM   #37
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www.autohausaz.com. the parts are brand new and fairly cheap too.
Just ordered the passenger side for $84.19 with free shipping. Raxles does not manufacture the passenger side for the 6MT. I will update after the install.
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:49 PM   #38
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Great writeup JoMaxima. Thanks!

I just removed the passenger side axle on my 2000 SE Automatic. I dipped in here for some torque specs. Will install new axle tonight.

A couple of observations from doing this in a MN car = lots of rust. 145K miles on the car.

The carrier bracket will likely have to come out. On mine, there was no way to get the axle bearing separated while in the car. The good thing is that the bolts to remove the bracket are far easier than the three little *****es holding the bearing to the bracket. In order to get the bracket out I had to drop the lower control arm an inch or so. Did this via the four large bolts holding it to the underbody. As someone mentioned, be careful of the oil pressure sensor. I removed the connector first which allowed a little more wiggle room.

Once out of the car it took a good amount of heat and 10 minutes with a hammer to separate the bearing from the bracket. Need to polish the rust off the iside of the bracket before the new one goes in.

As for transmission fluid coming out of the tranny. There appears to be a great deal of confusion about this. My observation from reading a few posts around here is that this is the case with the MT cars. On autos there is no fluid loss.

Lastly, the wires on the O2 sesor are amazingly strong. I have stretched them and got tools caught up in them several times, and they are still firmly attached

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Old 03-02-2010, 11:27 PM   #39
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After cleaning up the carrier bracket I still had to use some delicate tapping to insert the bearing. This was done with the shaft and carrier bearing bracket out of the car. Not sure how this can be done with the bracket still in the car. Some luck I guess with everything being in pristine condition. I had a fair amount of rust buildup on the bracket. Cleaned it up with a Dremel tool before putting things back together.

At any rate, the project is done and everthing seems fine. No vibrations or issues. I got my driveshaft from Advance Auto. New, no core to return.
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:32 PM   #40
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Does anybody have a link for doing it yourself?

Many thanks,

Michael
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:32 PM
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