maximillien

Hey guys, I know I can always turn to you guys for problems with maxine.

Here's the background:
2001 GLE with 95000k
Immaculate ever since except recently
has NOT had tune up for 75k
Battery somewhat new 20k miles old
Recently replaced starter with brand new one

Ok here's the problem:
This morning I started normally drove to work fine, on the way at a light I feel a rumble (more like if you're on a bridge and a big truck rolls on by)
I looked around but nothing, so I put it in Neutral, it stopped.
Put it back to Drive and it started to rumble again, then...it just stalled, not violently at all.
Put it in Park started up, struggled but was fine.
Second stop light same deal but started up again fine.
Got off of work started it fine, but then as I was a block away it died without even any warning, power steering stopped working FREAKED me out.
It's dead ever since

Here's what happens now when I try to start it.
Start it tries to turn over but does not stay on.(ok starter install was fine because it was fine a whole week before this happened)
if I pump the gas a couple times it gets a bit better and almost starts but does not turn over.
So I try to rev the gas at the SAME time while starting, and YES this keeps the motor running, BUT I have to keep the RPM up at above 2k RPM.
If not it dies.

So I am guessing something with the fuel. Either be pump, injector...etc

Anyone had this problem, if so what is wrong?
I use 89 RELIGIOUSLY! Any help be appreciated



Ok after diagnostics 2 codes came back:

P0100=MAF sensor
I have a question on this, when I installed the starter I took out the MAF and intake box, now would this trip this off where it would just need to be reprogrammed??

Or would I need to replace?

P0505=IAC Valve.
Why would this be tripped?
Would I need to replace?
Is this linked to the MAF sensor trouble?
I read some online and people say when IAC goes, the ECM is behind soon?
Please help!
__________

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

make sure all the connectors you removed for the starter are correctly clipped in. my old 4th gen used to stall out randomly and then the maf went and it wouldnt rev past 2k, also make sure your hose clamps are tight. do you have an aftermarket air filter (cone filter), they are common killers of MAFs(the oil used for the filters coat the hotwire in the maf and destroy them). i would say you need a mass air flow meter

VQP0WER

Also, could you only keep your questions in one thread? I just answered your question in the other thread you got.

e-subliminal-2

iTrader: (7)

Just wondering and someone correct me if im wrong.. But if it was the maf wouldnt it of continued to stall and wouldnt rev high when he said it "starts back up and drives fine"? Unless these are just common steps to a maf going bad?

maximillien

Ok here's the update, I got it partially fixed, and paid about 500 bucks to have the IACV replaced and MAF sensor replaced.

But I have a new problem and will be bringing it back to the mechanic. On cold starts it starts but RPM drops and engine stalls and dies like it was never fixed. BUT, if I feed it gas to about 1.5rpm for about 6 secs and it now stays on. ALSO, the remote start doesn't work maybe due to this. What could be the problem?

kjunior

I think that her old IAC valve burn your ECM. So you will need to change your ECM. Good luck. It's really expensive

maximillien

Yea after I left the car he told me that I might need to change the ECM. My question is this.

It's not really a problem if I leave it like this, I just won't be able to use my RS, but will it hurt the ECM more if I leave it like this. Please help...

maximillien

After doing research thanks to no one! Maybe this will help someone, I will try to relearn my ECU to the throttle idle learning using technosquare tips. I will let you know how this works out. You guys disappoint me man what's going on!

VQP0WER

Have it hooked up to a consult machine. They can check your ECM through that.

maximillien

I tried doing the reset procedure but it doesn't seem to work because the CEL did not blink like they said, would it be any different because the procedure seems like it was for a Z. Anyone has a link for a maxima or a generic nissan?

Also I checked under the hood and found out the the clamps for the IACV connecting to the MAF was not tightened AT ALL! ****en ******** mechanic, I will find out tonight once engine is cold if that solved the problem.

greenmachine

iTrader: (1)

i have the exact same problem. i have an iac and maf to change and should i wait to get a new ecm too? or take a chance, put it in and breaks again.