How did you come to the conclusion that it's the connection?
It's not a hard job at all if you get another connector you can snip and solder the new on in a pretty quick....should be no more than a 5-10 minutes job ...use heat shrink too instead of tape after you solder.
Are you sure that all the wire terminals are fully seated and locked in the connector body? It sounds like you might have one that isn't locked in and it has moved back and not contacting the associated injector connector pin. Push on all the wires going into the back of the harness connector and see/feel if one pushes in and then "clicks".
well i thought it was going to be a coil pack but instead of guessing i took it to the stealership and had the diag. test. He showed me that when he pushes down on the connection by taking a screwdriver and pushing down on the green arrow on the connector it would go from shuttering to smooth idle. So its a bad connection.
So how do you solder never seen it done only heard of it? By the way where is the best place to order this connector?
Didn't you already prove that yourself earlier? Have a GOOD look at the connector itself like I suggested above. Are all the terminals pushed in all the way, and are not damaged or corroded (this is a "weatherproof" connector in theory)? "Gently" pull on each wire and see if one pulls out. Check that all the injector pins are essentially straight and undamaged.
I will check this afternoon when I get off work to see about the wires and the terminal. I am fairly certain that the terminal is pushed down all the way. It does act as if something is keeping it from going down all the way or there is a short in the wires, because in reality if it is a bad connector it would still act the same even when you push down on the connector. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I will post this afternoon and let you know what I find out.
), but should I take it to the dealer?
Linear Mode
