godlyone

I'm reading the motorvate how to on changing CV-boot, and I'm not sure if the axle is all the way into transmission (drivers side)

I pushed it in and felt it click but the axle has this gasket type thing which isnt all the way in.. should I give it a few whacks with a hammer? or is it not supposed to go all the way in?

The FSM sucks and doesn't provide any details

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

I've never done it on a maxima yet but if you just tap it in, it should be ok. See what the other side looks like and compare.

jd885

Hit is with a hammer... for sure just dont wack the hell out of it , but give it a couple firm taps in

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

if it clicked you should be fine...try to pull it out it should be just as hard to do so as last time..but assuming the splines are al lined up it can't hurt to whack it a few times...

godlyone

but is that dust shield supposed to go all the way to tranny? theres a sliight gap.. maybe like 1/4" or so?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

When you pull it out and push it back in... the thud /clunk noise should ensure it's engaged all the way! I won't hit anything with a hammer, you should be able to do this by hand!

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

once it clicks, it's fine.

the "gasket" shield is to keep rocks and stuff out. It doesn't sit directly against the tranny, there is a gap.

put tranny fluid in. If it leaks, it's not in all the way

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

+1 nailed it right on the head.

godlyone

so the axle is in on the trans side but I don't understand how to get the strut into place.... its way too low and I need some kind of compression do push it back up... I guess over the course of a week the spring stretched bcz now its nearly impossible to get it back... grrrrrr

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

you need spring compressors to reassemble the strut assembly.

godlyone

no, I didn't take the strut out...

I left it in place, but I just can't figure out how to get the bottom of the strut into the mount [all without ripping the new cv]

It [the strut] seems way too low so if i push the axle into the hub, I can't get the strut into the mount

I'm thinking about getting the spring compressors next weekend and trying it again but I dont understand why This is necessary? It wasn't on any of the writeups I've read [including motorvate]


Right now the car is up on jackstands, axle is in tranny but not in the hub
the steering knuckle is disassembled (it was worn, need to replace it anyway)
And Strut is still connected up top, but disconnected from the rotor/hub assembly

godlyone

did anyone have to go through this?

Andrew

iTrader: (5)

can you post any pics for us?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

The strut should bolt right up. It doesn't get longer when it sits.
Are both front wheels off the ground? If the other side is on the ground then the sway bar is pushing the opposite hub upward which is why you cannot get the strut lined up with the knuckle. Both front wheels must be off the ground when doing suspension work.

godlyone

yea the other tire is on the ground...

you think that is whats happening? might make sense....

Andrew: cant take any pics now since im in philly for the week but next weekend I could


I just bought the spring compression set at sears so I'll just compress the spring, bring the strut up and put it in the proper spot

Also I bought a new tie-rod end for the steering knuckle.. 38 bucks at courtesyparts and the next best price was like 47 with Dave B discount compared to 65 from local dealer

After this I need to get an alignment, so should I just let those guys install the tie rod? It seems like a 2 minute job lol

godlyone

so what do you guys think?

If anyone has a picture of the axle "all the way into tranny" that would be awesome

Also the retaining clip on the outer cv broke off. Is this retaining clip necessary?

I can't see the axle coming out since theres no room for play.. but I could be wrong...

could anyone offer a better opinion? note its the one on the outer cv next to wheel [the one that goes into tranny is 100% good]

godlyone

anybody know whether that retaining clip on the cv (wheel side) is necessary?

00Lightsout

i recently had the same problem with my max...the extra 1/4" is because you could have an axle that is for the manual tranny. I made the same mistake, and had to reorder the part from drivewire.com. BTW...NEVER PURCHASE FROM DRIVEWIRE.COM i may have to file a police report with the company, i already contacted the BBB, and the problem could go to court b/c they are not honoring their policies.

i guess you got it in, but i hope you didn't tap the internal sleeve out of place. That was my problem i think. I've had the steering shake for about 8 months now, and have replace almost the entire front end suspension, complete braking system, and the axles. My problem is that the driver side axle input shaft wiggles a little, it seats all the way in the tranny, and the snap ring works great, but it still moves around. I believe my problem is with the tranny, and am taking the car to AAMCO today, unless someone here can tell me the possible problem with the input shaft.

godlyone

well I am using my original axle [I just changed the boot on it] and I do have a manual tranny anyway

I just wish someone had a pic of the axle properly seated in the transmission

And also if anyone knows about that retaining clip

00Lightsout

if you have a gas strut, it does get longer when it sits.

also, all retaining rings are important for safety, if they didn't need it, they wouldn't put it in there. try to find a replacement snap ring from your local parts company, or you may be able to get by with the original(if you purchased a new axle and have the original axle still)

you don't need a spring compressor, simply put your hydraulic jack under the control arm, raise it up while guiding the top of your strut through the isolator cap. make sure the spring seat is positioned properly with the word "outside" facing towards the outside of the fender.

can you post a pic of the area the retaining clip is supposed to be b/c i don't remember there being a retaining clip on the wheel side of the axle...but there is a cotter pin that goes through the end of the axle after the nut is bolted down to 200+/- ft/lbs. and yes you need a cotter pin for safety purposes, it keeps your wheel from falling off if the nut comes loose.

godlyone

ok well in this diagram

The circlip I'm talking about is 39234+A

or at least I think so...

your axle is like this:

Trans --[ inner boot ] -------- [outer boot ] ----- hub/rotor/etc/wheel

so there are 2 clips, one on the transmission side and one inside of the outer boot so that when you push the splines in, it doesn't come back out

But since I broke the clip that is in the outer boot, do I really need to replace it? Wouldnt the wheel/hub and transmission prevent that from coming out anyway?

00Lightsout

i would replace the clip, bc you never know what kind of serious safety problems this could cause down the road...always safety first. call you local parts dealer, it's probably only a buck or two

godlyone

yea I just called it's like 48 cents but this means I need to take apart the axle again (for the third freakin time) and get new cv boot clamps !!!

I just don't see the point of the retaining clip.. it's not strong enough to hold and kind of significant pulling force or anything... maybe its just there so it doesnt fall apart during installation? I think the wheel hub and transmission hold will keep the axle from coming out

00Lightsout

you could as motorvate:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/402

he would know for sure b/c he's done this before, i just removed and replaced!!

davemac

Your wheel won't fall off, but I wouldn't be surprised if the CV joint is noisy without the circlip. Easy for me to say, but I'd replace the circlip.
The circlip keeps the bearing cage attached to the end of the shaft. I think the bearing cage is going to move more than it was designed for since without the circlip it will slide some on the center axle shaft. Circlips are pretty tough. I don't think axle will slide out of the joint completely so I don't think it a safety issue, but the joint may wear faster due to the extra play.

godlyone

anybody else have an opinion

godlyone

am i really gonna have to take it apart all over again?

00Lightsout

perfectly said

how much $ have you spent on replacing the boot? b/c you would've been able to purchase a NEW(not rebuilt) entire CV Axle From Kragen for $99 and change!!

godlyone

Well I spent about 30 bucks... 15 for the first boot and then I ripped it by accident during install so I bought another one lol

So you guys do think that circlip actually prevents the shaft from moving out?

davemac

The lower control arm is loaded by the sway bar. So when you disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower control arm (ball joint) or from the strut you'll find things will not easily line up. A long pry bar can be used to push the lower control arm down so you can line up strut or connect ball joint. Get your axle started into the hub while you line things up. Once the steering knuckle is connected top and bottom you won't be able to get the axle into the hub.
If necessary you can disconnect the sway bar link on the side you are working to make the lower control arm easy to move.

davemac

I feel your pain. I once replaced some struts and ended up mangling an outer CV boot putting things back. I don't believe the axle will become disconnected - just some extra play with the center axle shaft and bearing cage in the outer joint. You're an expert now. You'll easily fix this if the axle becomes noisy some miles down the road.

Just make sure the axle is seated in the tranny. The position of that dust shield should be close to the tranny seal but is not important. You will not be able to push the axle in any further if it is properly seated. If you are lucky and there are some ridges on the inner bearing cup and you can use a brass drift or screw driver and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer. You'll feel when there is no more give. Getting the circlip into the notch sometimes takes a sharp impact.

Learn from this and think about how you can be sneaky next time. Replacing the boots does not require removing the axle from the tranny. Or you trade $ for ease and replace the entire axle and axle tranny seal. Learning and bonding with your car is always a good thing.

godlyone

ok so I decided since I'm a freakin pro at it, I might as well take the axle apart one final time, put that damn circlip on and do it right.

Tonight I removed my whole strut so I could get the axle in without any ridiculous issues

So tommorow I'm going to Nissan to pick up the circlip
Going to take apart axle [need to get new cv boot clamps!]

And put axle in to trans/wheel hub

So technically after that is in I should be able to just get the strut in with no problem

right?

During a typical strut repair/change they dont touch the axle do they?

Thanks again guys. And if you could get me a pic of a properly seated axle (in the trans) that would be nice.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you raised both sides of the car? If not, you're ignoring very good advice, and making it harder for yourself.

No, there's no reason to mess with the driveline when changing out suspension.

There's not much to see with a properly seated axle. If you feel/hear the circlip snap into place, that's as far as it's gonna go.

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

+1 dont overcomplicate it.

Raise both sides of the car like everyone else said too if you haven't figured it out yet. Unless you feel like removing the swaybar...

godlyone

grrr

nissan didnt get the clip in time and theyre closed tomm!

I tried napa autozone pepboys

nobody has it

grrrr

godlyone

well I'm going to finish the install this weekend (hopefully dealer gets the freakin circlip before then)

If anyone has a pic of their axle in the transmission (I searched the org for about an hr to no avail) that would be awesome!

Thanks guys and wish me luck

00Lightsout

is this what you need?

godlyone

yup, exactly what I needed

But I can't really tell in that picture, is the gasket or dust shield flush to the transmission?
or is there a slight gap? because mine has a sliight gap like 1/4" maybe max?

00Lightsout

there is a small gap about 1/4" MAX...if anything it's a solid 1/8". the dust shield is not supposed to ride right on the axle seal b/c it will cause it to melt...it just keeps the dirt and debris from damaging the seal.

if your snap ring is set in, then you are good to go. feel free to give it a little tap with a rubber hammer, just to be sure.

00Lightsout

better?!