streetracero1

iTrader: (3)

i got the dreaded p1320 code last week and car started running rough. so i bought 6 new coils and replaced them all. i cleared the code and then reset my ecu but the code keeps coming back up every time i clear it. the car runs great and i doesn't seem like its running like it has a mis at all but this damn code won't go away. any other suggestions? also replaced spark plugs about 6k miles ago

2000 max se auto tranny

VQP0WER

Replace your crankshaft position sensor.

The crankshaft position sensor (REF) is located on the oil pan

(upper) facing the crankshaft pulley.

DeaZaL

Same problem here... I was pulling 1320 at first with the #1 cylander code... car was running very rough... so I changed out that #1 coil... Running like a champ again! So I figured I was good? Nope... the secondary code went away... but still 1320... reset ecu... waited a week... still my little friend was there... with no secondary code pointing to a specfic cylander... this is a pain in the *** because my inspection is up....

So I went and spent 280 bucks on the other 5 coils... 2 minutes after an ecu reset it came back... wtf....

from reading the threads it could be wires... or injectors... this is the first time I read about "The crankshaft position sensor "... is this valid? just looking for some direction here..

Thanks!

lake985

iTrader: (7)

a malfunctioning crank or camshaft position sensor would cause the car to randomly shut down. All the lights on your dash would light up and your gauges would go crazy for a few seconds. It doesn't appear like that's your problem, DeaZal.

VQP0WER

What?

P1320 from the service manual:

Possible Cause
NFEC0572
I Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or
shorted.)
I Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
I Condenser
I Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
I Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit

DeaZaL

That's the first I've heard of that... Only thing else I read was injectors or replacing the cables/connectors...

What do you guys think the best course of action is???

Amave

yeah i get that same code. but i also get it with a p1336 crank pos sensor cog.

i get a hard start intermittent. starts every time though but no hesitaition.

i did have to replace #6 & #5 coils because of misfiring, but after replacing said coils it runs fine w/o misfire

lake985

iTrader: (7)

When I was getting a P1320 code, my car was randomly shutting down in the middle of traffic---turned out to be a malfunctioning crankshaft position sensor. Once it was replaced, the car was back to "normal" (she's always fighting with me ). However, these guys don't seem to be having those problems so it may very well be one of the other three things you listed above. Just my 2 cents.

Amave

which ckp was replaced?

the one by the crank pulley or the one on the trans. bell housing?


i am also getting the 1320 code but i also get a 1336 ckp sensor code

DeaZaL

So what do you guys think the next course of action is? I've replaced all all coils & plugs.. Still getting p1320.. I can't pass inspection without getting it fixed..

Amave

isn't 1320 spark knock code?


what octane gas do you use?

in the TSB from Nissan it says if this code comes up to use the highest octane fuel available, to reduce spark knock, BEFORE replacing any coils.

i may be wrong tho

dzil

Hi guys I am new here but I am having the same code P1320 with my 2000 maxima se with 69000 miles,the car run great only misfire on start up,took it to my mechanic who could not find any bad coils,really dont know what to do.I have check out other site and found out that this is an ongoing problem with these cars.Please any one out there with suggestions?

BronxSleeperMax187

I would change all coils and plugs if I had the $ if I were you, or wait till it throws a cel code with the cylinder thats misfiring which it will soon if thats the problem. Also get E3 plugs and get the coils from autozone like I did, i had the same problem myself when I bought my car used and changed them myself. Its so easy even A person who never worked on cars can change coils....search it http://sites.google.com/site/maximacoils/

dstrawsb

I've got the same problem except no stalling, Maxxy is running great, all except the p1320 it throws. and all I have to do is start the car.

So I yanked the Crank Position Sensor, passengers side lower, and it looks beat, it is so rusted, it looks like the metal covering over the magnet has deteriorated, so I cleaned it up, but still throwing the code, well I should mention, I have 15k on her, and original CPS, I just changed the ignition coils. first time, new plugs, new fuel filter, fuel sending unit, front cat, mid cat, resonator and cam sensor.

I'm going broke with repairs, but she has ran like a champ all these years, so she deserves it.

So gotta run, ordering a CPS and a new radiator, shes leaking, tie rod ends and stabilizer links on the shelf, waiting on struts and mounts.

I'll post what I figure out on the CPS.

don

KilJim

bump

How did that work out? Did the CPS fix the code?

I'm getting 2 X P1320 and i'm wondering if that's 2 coils gone bad?
No other code to indicate misfire, and the car starts and idle's just fine

prmaxi

i think the only way to really find out what the problem is, is to get it diagnosed at the dealer so they can you specifically pin point the problem,its 90 bucks but hey...

T_Behr904

My 2000 SE 5-sp has tripped this P1320 code twice. First time It did it I put in new E3 spark plugs, and the plug tubes were dry, no oil. Cleared the code, and 5 days later the engine light came back on. So, I drove it for a few more days to see if it would drip any secondary codes, and it didn't. Only the 1320! Both times the light came on, it was in the morning during the humid balmy summer mornings here in Florida, so could moisture be causing the problem somewhere? I cleared the light for the 2nd time a few days ago and it hasn't come back on... yet...

Amave

do you guys know that it is very easy to tell if it is the coil packs causing the problem???


all you have to do it start from one side of the motor and just disconnect coil plugs one by one...if there is no change in misfire you have found your culprit...


used the same method to diagnose and replace 5 of my 6 coils....had a misfire , engine had no power and chugging, and used that method to find which coils were bad ...replaced coils and all is good

sontakke

Ditch E3 and get OEM NGK laser platinum or Iridium. Then you can start debugging the misfire if it is still there.

eJayZ

Just as an FYI - I had a similar issue when I originally replaced the two defective ignition coils with BWD ones from Advance Auto. They were made in Poland. Car ran fine, but it kept throwing the P1320 code. After exhaustive testing, I pulled the BWD ones out and put in new OEM ones. That took care of the problem!!!!

Lesson learned here, only go with OEM ones.

Love_00_Max

I have P1320 and I know it is not the coils. I checked the condenser and it was shot... Ordered it from local dealer. Shall keep posting if the problem exists inspite of replacing the condeser.

T_Behr904

Here's another possible scenario I accidentally came across. It didn't occur to me until later, but when my car tripped the P1320 codes, I happened to put gas in my car those same days the light came on. Since I've had the car, I've put Shell V-Power 93 octane gas in it. The two times the light came on with just the P1320 code is when I put different brand of gas in the car. Maybe mixing two different brands of gas with different additives somehow "clashed" with each other? It's been around 3 weeks now, and just sticking with one brand of fuel, the light hasn't come back on.

nawar

I got the same code p1320 I cleared it of but the mechanics told the light will be back in no time.
how much does it cost to replace the crankshaft position sensor?

T_Behr904

Well my fuel theory isn't the problem. What was an occasional intermittent 1320 code is now constant. I cleared it, drove it and no problem. As soon as I started it back up the light was back on. As far as the sensor goes, I was told that there are 2 sensors on the DE-K engine. Depending on what parts place you go to, one sensor is in the 50-75 dollar range and the other is 100-150 range. Haven't had time to deal with it, and my light has been on nearly a month now, but the car runs and drives fine. I just don't get it...

sontakke

You are not listening, are you? DITCH THOSE E3 and get OEM NGKs

- Vikas

T_Behr904

My problem started when I had the $15 per plug NGK's in the car, and I spent that big money again with the same results. I even put the cheap $2 plugs in just to test them out and still no difference there.

T_Behr904

Bump...

aga1793

I got the dreaded P1320 as well today. Also my slip and TCS lights came on? But the slip and TCS lights went away after 10-20 minutes of driving. Does this look like a Crankshaft position sensor issue. Anyone know the part number? At courtseyparts.com they are showing 2 different item numbers for this? How safe is it to go with a replacement part from advance auto? Thanks in advance!

hargate

same issue here. 1320, new coils, I replaced the NGK Plat with NGK V-power copper ($3) just to see if there was any difference and there wasn't.

I also get P0105. Those are the only two.

The CEL/SES flashes when I put a lad on her but since the plug change is not there at startup but anyone can tell that its not running right.

Car hesitates and shakes when in gear at a light. Idles fine in N and P. WOT from 50 MPH and RPMs shoot to 4500 before gear change or notice of acceleration. Car definitely not what it has been since I bought her with 19k (137k now).

Any advice?

Next stop stealership I guess.

DMAXXX

same 1320 with TCS and slip light on after new spark plugs and coils.the max runs great except the christmas tree on my dash.PLS HELP

Motohead

I finally cured my P1320 yesterday after almost a year. I had the #6 coil go bad last summer, which was easy to diagnose (P0306). What I didn't know at the time is apparently our cars are very picky about which coils you put on them. I originally bought one from O'Reilly's. The P0306 went away but P1320 immediately showed up yet I had NO driveability issues. Thanks to the org, I looked for Nissan coils available in the aftermarket. If you buy Echlin brand from NAPA these are Nissan- the logo is ground off and if you remove the Made In Japan decal you'll find the gray dot. They're also much cheaper than the dealer. The Houston NAPA distribution center had more than 40 fronts in stock so I'm sure they can be easily found anywhere.