how to clean the engine bay?

[imported_D_Roc]

i searched and every one say apply degrease and then hose it down but some say don't use water so how am i supposed to do it the right way my engine bay is filthy

[VQP0WER]

I always take mine into those quarter car wash stations, pop the hood, spray a small amount of degreaser, and pressure wash it down. I gotta cover up my air filter because it's GAB'd.

After that, I just take a rag with some tire shine on it, and wipe down all the hoses and plastic. It looks brand new everytime.

[Jaz2001]

Would you recommend Purple Power?

[phatboislim]

purple power, simple green...any degreaser..but FYI a pressure hose is not necessary. i clean mine w/ a garden hose and get great results.

there is a link that has my procedure in it

[phatboislim]

here's my link from another forum

http://www.clubintegra.com/board/sho...71&postcount=5

[Jaz2001]

Thanks alot

[phatboislim]

no problem

[hi-tek22]

excellent info

[ZIPPIN]

Do you cover the alternator?

[phatboislim]

nope i never cover anything.

think about it (if any have ever had/seen a honda engine bay) the positioning of the alternator is expected to take on water in a rain storm..no matter how hard it rains..the alternator never takes a dump.

now that isnt to say to sit there and constantly spray the alternator..same for the plugs wires,(coils) spark plugs. spray it just enough to remove the gunk and move on. even if water (actually just condensation) gets in there, take the plug wire out, wipe it off, leave it off to dry out the plug hole, or take out the plug and try to start the engine...but the engine is fine..doing the maxima engine was teh scariest engine i've ever done, but once i did it as the procedure i've written out, i was convinced that theres nothing to be scared about.

i got this procedure from the dealership detailer..so i know it works and is effective.

[CMax03]

When I first bought this car brand new off the showroom floor, first thing I did was pack all the connectors with Dow Corning#4 cause I knew I was gonna wash my engine religously. and I didn't want any connectors turning into water cavities and possible electronic gremlins in the later years. After I'm through washing and scrubbing. I treat the engine to a mist of Armour All and that keeps all the hoses and rubber items pliable and elastic forever.

[phatboislim]

ARMOR ALL (I HEARD AND CANT CONFIRM) CAUSES RUBBER COMPONENTS TO CRACK...SORT OF LIKE PUTTING ARMOR ALL ON LEATHER AND WHAT NOT...THEY HAVE CERTAIN CHEMICALS TO SPRAY ON HOSES AND ETC UNDER THE HOOD AFTER U CLEAN IT..BUT AFTER I HEARD BOUT ARMOR ALL DOING THAT TO MY HOSES, I PERSONALLY STOPPED..I JUST CLEAN AND LET IT DRY

SORRY FOR THE CAPS I WORK IN CAPS

[CMax03]

Originally Posted by phatboislim

ARMOR ALL (I HEARD AND CANT CONFIRM) CAUSES RUBBER COMPONENTS TO CRACK...SORT OF LIKE PUTTING ARMOR ALL ON LEATHER AND WHAT NOT...THEY HAVE CERTAIN CHEMICALS TO SPRAY ON HOSES AND ETC UNDER THE HOOD AFTER U CLEAN IT..BUT AFTER I HEARD BOUT ARMOR ALL DOING THAT TO MY HOSES, I PERSONALLY STOPPED..I JUST CLEAN AND LET IT DRY

SORRY FOR THE CAPS I WORK IN CAPS

It's not true I used Armour All on my hoses and plastics under the hood and inside my vehicle and I didn't change hoses but twice since I owned the truck. I got 325,000+ miles and the interior is still in very decent condition no cracks on the original dash yet. So I'll continue to use as is...I put it thru the test on my 325,000+ mile 1986.5 Nissan Hardbody, and on a 1974 Toyota Celica with 237,000+ ( which I handed down to my little sister). Keep on believing everything you hear , more than half is just lips rumbling in the wind! I been using this on my 2003 Nissan Maxima and it's running 85,000+miles as I speak, without any signs of crack or deterioation.

[IHAVEA2KMAXIMA]

I WOULD COVER THE ALTERNATOR JUST TO PLAY ON THE SAFE SIDE. REPLACING THE ALTERNATOR IS NOT CHEAP NOR FUN, SO JUST COVER IT ANYWAYS. IT'S NOT THAT HARD.

I WORK IN CAPS TOO.

[phatboislim]

Originally Posted by CMax03

It's not true I used Armour All on my hoses and plastics under the hood and inside my vehicle and I didn't change hoses but twice since I owned the truck. I got 325,000+ miles and the interior is still in very decent condition no cracks on the original dash yet. So I'll continue to use as is...I put it thru the test on my 325,000+ mile 1986.5 Nissan Hardbody, and on a 1974 Toyota Celica with 237,000+ ( which I handed down to my little sister). Keep on believing everything you hear , more than half is just lips rumbling in the wind! I been using this on my 2003 Nissan Maxima and it's running 85,000+miles as I speak, without any signs of crack or deterioation.

YOU ACT LIKE ITS JUST, USING ARMOR ALL IS SOMETHING THAT CAN MAKE OR BREAK THE CAR. I'M JUST STATING THE REASON I QUIT USING IT. IF I'M NOT MISTAKEN I ALSO INCLUDED THE OPTION AND STEP IN WHICH TO APPLY THE ARMOR ALL IF U WANTED TO.

I KNOW ARMOR ALL SCREWS UP LEATHER..I JUST WASNT SURE ABOUT THE BELTS AND HOSES.

[Froggmann]

Originally Posted by Jaz2001

Would you recommend Purple Power?

I do that stuff works great. It cut through 8 years of oil, coolant, mud, desert and whatever the hell else was on the engine of my bronco. I was actually able to the timing cover on my bronco before having to break it in half to get to the timing chain.

[navigator82]

hey imported d roc hookme up whit the parts to make the intake. where i can findthem

[Wiking]

Nowadays the engine bay is a computer room ... never heard of a computer room power wash? Water in connectors, brittled wiring, sensors causes (intermittent) $hort circuits. Water Power wash is an invitation for degraded ctrl signals...

Yes clean engine is nice to stare at. I rather enjoy a dusty engine than pop hood up on a highway to enjoy its looks...

Repair oil leaks = 'only' dust on engine. Use compressed air blast, rag/brush, evaporating electronics cleaner to clean. If power wash cannot be avoided, locate and try to shield any sensor/connector...

Water wash for my max only if: big engine repair coming where dirt might cause damage, or there has been coolant leak/splash over engine bay electronics. (Coolant contains glycol; when it dries out, minuscle glycol crystals wont vanish but remain in all cracks -and- wait for a rainy day = humid air to suck moisture, expand and start causing havoc...)

[CMax03]

Originally Posted by Wiking

Nowadays the engine bay is a computer room ... never heard of a computer room power wash? Water in connectors, brittled wiring, sensors causes (intermittent) $hort circuits. Water Power wash is an invitation for degraded ctrl signals...

Yes clean engine is nice to stare at. I rather enjoy a dusty engine than pop hood up on a highway to enjoy its looks...

Repair oil leaks = 'only' dust on engine. Use compressed air blast, rag/brush, evaporating electronics cleaner to clean. If power wash cannot be avoided, locate and try to shield any sensor/connector...

Water wash for my max only if: big engine repair coming where dirt might cause damage, or there has been coolant leak/splash over engine bay electronics. (Coolant contains glycol; when it dries out, minuscle glycol crystals wont vanish but remain in all cracks -and- wait for a rainy day = humid air to suck moisture, expand and start causing havoc...)

I'm in the telecommunication industry and I've never heard of a 250 degree+ computer room since you brought this up! Nor an outside mobile server (all weather), nor highly shock(vibration) resistant PC! So I just named a few things, that are characteristics of an automotive spec'd computer and by the way our ECU in the cabin sucking up that a/c along with us! Wash those engines cause a clean engine is a happy engine!!!!

[Wiking]

Originally Posted by CMax03

I'm in the telecommunication industry and I've never heard of a 250 degree+ computer room since you brought this up! ...

Digital tech with 5V signals was never designed to be outside climate ctroled rooms ... now has been installed into mentioned heat plus water - salt - whatever enviro abuse. Even worse, the 5V signal tech is not enough but 1V level signals are used - which ensures problems. Everyone working on these problems knows what this means with oxidation on ten feet (plus) multi connector cabling; stupidity at its peak.

Yes, very few ppl want or can hear, one has to experience it. Go an wash an be happy.

No more comments from me.

[theStig]

As far as cleaning engine bays are concerned. What's really worked for me, is to park your car in a nice air conditioned garage and pull p a seat! Grab a stack of rags, a toothbrush, and a bottle of simple green. Start cleaning it by hand an inch at a time, and you'd be surprised how clean the engine bay turns out.

In fact I'm doing that myself this weekend. I'll post pics when done.

[kgallerie]

Originally Posted by theStig

As far as cleaning engine bays are concerned. What's really worked for me, is to park your car in a nice air conditioned garage and pull p a seat! Grab a stack of rags, a toothbrush, and a bottle of simple green. Start cleaning it by hand an inch at a time, and you'd be surprised how clean the engine bay turns out.

In fact I'm doing that myself this weekend. I'll post pics when done.

Oh......that sounds like fun

[phatboislim]

before and after pics

ive seen a friend do that..and i'm like screw that lol

[theStig]

Originally Posted by kgallerie

Oh......that sounds like fun

I work all day in a stressful environment. Sitting in a nice quiet garage and working on my car is damn near therapeutic... though I usually prefer cleaning an engine with it OUTSIDE the car..

In any case, here is a picture of an S14 I used to own. I don't have and before pictures, but it was super dirty.

After: (about 45 min of work)

[CMax03]

What year is that? It's surely clean!

[Klutch]

I agree with the clean engine is a happy engine. I've always hit my engines with the power sprayer at the car wash. I always adheared to a few rules. Don't do it too often, work quickly, don't work in any one place too long and try to especially not shoot and large electrical blocks too long. I hit everything but just don't work the electrical stuff too long. I've never had a problem doing it this way, ever.

[CMax03]

Originally Posted by Klutch

I agree with the clean engine is a happy engine. I've always hit my engines with the power sprayer at the car wash. I always adheared to a few rules. Don't do it too often, work quickly, don't work in any one place too long and try to especially not shoot and large electrical blocks too long. I hit everything but just don't work the electrical stuff too long. I've never had a problem doing it this way, ever.

A Very real person finally! I do mine with a garden hose @ my house cause I never let it get dirty! 03 Max with 85,000+ miles and still kicking. For you hardcore skeptics my fuel injected 1986.6 D21 Hardbody has the same original Computer and wiring harness with 325,000+ miles, and she's getting washed and armour all'd....

[Klutch]

Originally Posted by CMax03

A Very real person finally! I do mine with a garden hose @ my house cause I never let it get dirty! 03 Max with 85,000+ miles and still kicking. For you hardcore skeptics my fuel injected 1986.6 D21 Hardbody has the same original Computer and wiring harness with 325,000+ miles, and she's getting washed and armour all'd....

You know, the only reason I don't hit mine at home is because I simply want hot water when I do it. I try not to do it a lot so when I do I want it as short and sweet as I can so the hotter water the better IMHO. Every once in a while I'll hit it with the low pressure degreaser and let soak for a few and then rinse, otherwise I just hit it with the rinse water.

[imported_D_Roc]

Originally Posted by navigator82

hey imported d roc hookme up whit the parts to make the intake. where i can findthem

got the maf sensor adapter form ebay for $5
1 4" stright pipe Spectre part number 8708- $12 (off amazon)
Vacuum sensor adapter kit Spectre part number 8711 - $9 (off amazon)
2 3" to 3" silicone coupler spectre part number 8771 - $9 each (from amazon)
silicone hose kit spectre part number 28902 - $17 (from amazon)
Filter spectre part number 8132 - $24 (form autozone)
and made a custom fastner from some metal strips from home depot a little over $3

so total about $88 (was actually a little less )

hers a latest pic of it