ptspringer

Hi,

I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima (manual transmission) that wont start. I've traced what I think the problem is and I'd like to check my thinking with others before I tear into the car to fix her.

When I turn the key to on all the lights come on- the blowers, headlights, etc work fine. When I turn the key to start - nothing. No crank, no drain on battery.

I checked battery by jumping from another car - still no action.

I measured the voltage to the starter. One terminal has 12 V to it, but the one that comes through the clutch interlock relay to activate the starter solenoid does not come on when the key is turned to start position.

I checked the fuse 21 going to the clutch interlock relay (through the clutch switch) and it is fine. There is no voltage at that fuse when the ignition is turned to start (but there should be), and that voltage should come directly from the ignition switch.

So I'm thinking it's the ignition switch itself - doesn't work in the start position.

Any thing else I should check before I dig into that switch to test proper operation & replace???

I'm pretty sure the starter isn't the problem - but I could jump voltage to the other terminal and confirm that it starts. I'm pretty sure the clutch interlock relay isn't to blame (yet) since there is no voltage going to it from fuse 21.

Have I missed anything?

Thanks,

Paul

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

neutral saftey switch?

ptspringer

Oh I'm sorry. I forgot to mention that it is manual transmission. There is a switch to test that the clutch is engaged - but no voltage to it (fuse 21)

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Statistically much more common reason for that relay not to work is broken ground circuit going through "Clutch Interlock Switch".

Just to make sure - when checking voltage at the fuse with key in Start position did you measure it on both ends of the fuse while it was removed? Or did you measure it on either end while it was in place and you previously ensured that the fuse was OK? If you did one of these ways and your blower motor works with key in ACC position then yes, you're not getting power through the ignition switch contact.

To confirm this I'd remove the fuse 21 and jump +12V to the fuse contact going to relay from some other contact in the fuse box while depressing clutch and holding the key in START. If your theory is correct the car should start.

ptspringer

Hi,

Thanks for the suggestion! I did check both sides of fuse 21 - the lower pin is fine - the upper - not connected (somehow) to the ignition switch - S&^%T

I'm pretty sure now that the connection between the ignition switch (pin 6) and the fuse 21 is broken somewhere.

I repaired the ignition switch which showed some carbon and pitting, but was not the problem after all.

I tested continuity at the clutch interlock relay pin 3 through the starter solenoid and confirmed that 12 V was on pin 5 when the key was turned to start. I measured continuity to ground from pin 2 of the clutch interlock relay though the clutch switch - and when the clutch was depressed pin 2 was connected to ground.

In other words - except for the signal that the clutch was engaged- it looked like all else was good!!

What Red Blooded American Man (or Woman for that matter) would not, at this point. use a paper clip to test the starter system?? Well I did, and the car started just fine.

I also checked that pin 1 of the clutch interlock relay had continuity to the lower pin on fuse 21.

I looked at ways of restoring the connection between pin 6 of ignition relay and the fuse 21 - but could not find the right wires.

I'm looking for connection 4H which I guess is at the fusebox.

Meanwhile, the car has a paperclip installed instead of the clutch lockout relay. If I could get help on finding and restoring the wiring I would like to get the clutch interlock working again. Meanwhile.. the nissan is like my 66 bug - she'll start in gear.

Paul

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

The upper pin will get 12V only if the key is in START position but you probaly know this already.

The upper pin goes through connector E83 contact 4H (Fuse Block Diagram) into Engine Room Harness (EL page 351) and comes out at the ignition switch at connector E93 contact 6 (EC page 713). This is one wire without any other connectors in the middle. The wire color is shown as B/L (Black/?)

ptspringer

Thanks - wiring harness info - of course. ;-)

The diagram of wiring harness is great! It's great to see the shape of connector E83. Is there a diagram of it's pin connection, how many wires,etc ? Hard to identify under the dash - there are like 10 plugged into the fusebox = where I guess it connects.

I need a way to search these electronic manuals.

B/L is Black/Lavender - which looks more like blue to me.

I'm familiar with the ignition switch harness connector - too familiar, in fact.

tbonesteak

hmm mine does that too...

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

The Fuse Box diagram actually contains connector pinouts. For example, E83:

Skywolf2

I've just started experiencing starting problems as well. But I don't know that its my ignition switch. My vehicle will crank after I fiddle with the gear shift (mine is a 01' automatic). Its happened twice now, about 3 weeks apart. Once I messed with the gear shift, it cranked right up, no harsh sound or anything else out of place. Is there a relay in the gear shift box that I can replace?

ptspringer

THANK You!!

I've seen that connector on the fusebox, and based on the color of the wire I tried to measure it's continuity with pin 6 on the ignition harness. No continuity - but I wondered if my multimeter probe was getting to the conductor, or even if it was the correct wire, before giving up.

I'll go back in there and fix it correctly.

My wife already has complained that the car seems to "jump" when she starts it. I told her to push in the clutch before starting. These newfangled safety features lead to sloppy driving habits.

and for the automatic that has to have a gear lever jiggled, I believe there is a neutral safety switch in the inhibit circuit that requires the car to be in park or neutral. Sounds like that is loose or dirty.

Paul

leescotty2001

That or ur clutch could be out? IDK maybe....

BoGs

Sounds exactly what i am going through..... how did you fix this where should I start - if I bring it to the mechanic I can only imagine the bill.... :S Any help appreciated.

AtlMike

Hi,
I have recently replaced a bad battery (it had a small crack in it around the negative terminal). My car sometimes starts automatically and other times takes several cranks to start. The engine has roughly 139000 miles on it. I had the starter tested at the parts store and it passed. I then took a reading when it started it had 12v at the starter and when it didn't it had only 7volts. Any suggestions on what to try next? Thank you!

Mr.V

so im a little slow, can some one please post pictures on the relay?