5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
I am having problem with one of the TV remote, so I opened it up and sprayed the circuit board and the rubber keypad with CRC Electronic cleaner. After drying it and putting it together, the keys which were cleaned became dead. I opened it up again and this time I used CRC MAF cleaner. Same story i.e. keys cleaned with CRC MAF cleaner stopped responding.
I have done this type of repair using drug store bought alcohol. So I opened the remote again and cleaned keys with the rubbing alcohol. The remote started working fine.
I really do not have good explanation but it does put a damper on my plan of spraying the MAF cleaner on my Maxima MAF. Since I have no MAF related symptoms, I am not going to risk possible problems.
I just purchased my first Maxima! It is a 00 Maxi and 100% stock for now with 110,000 mi..
I just got it on Sunday (today is Tuesday) and on the way home I noticed the "brick wall" at 3500 rpm. Now, all I could think was that I have bought a piece of crap. I called the nissan dealer and described the issue. But as most of you know, they dont have a clue about this problem. They wanted to charge me $500.00 to replace the MAF + labor charges.
First off, I can take computers apart all day long.. No biggie.. But when it comes to cars, they don't even let me have a screw driver. This post saved me a bunch of $$ and wasted time at the dealers.
I purchased all of the things to clean out the MAF sensor but once I pulled it out, I could easily see it was bad. A trip to Auto Zone ( the only thing open at 8:30pm out here with the cows) and some print outs from this forum.. and I am back in business.. This car pulls like a raging bull new from the factory....
Now.. for some upgrades that everyone would recomend.....
Thank you guys so much!!!!
Jeff
Burlington, NC
__________________
Thats right... It's stock! Take it easy on me, I'm a newbie!
Thanks very much for the post. I bought a 2000 Maxima SE a month ago and it was having some rough starts and poor performance. It was my fathers car, so I knew it was capable of more than I was getting.
Cleaned the MAF and was greeted with power again.
It began stalling again and running rough a week later, so we pulled out the IACV and Throttle body and cleaned those up. Got it giving again and then the stalls happened, again.
Cleaned the MAF with a passion this time and now the car is going like snot again. So for those who tried and got good then bad, you might want to clean the IACV, Throttle body and then REALLY clean the MAF. It took a bit of time to get the other parts out, but really saved me some cash.
I just ordered a new MAF because I figure since it's one of the cheaper parts in the car, I might as well replace that to avoid having to clean it throughout the year (yes, I am THAT lazy).
So again, thank you for helping me avoid the mechanics bill.
Does anyone have any opinion about cleaning the MAF as standard maintenance? I've never cleaned the MAF, have 53K miles on the car, and have been using the Apexi dry pop-charger for the last 30K miles. My mileage is excellent (just under 30 mpg), I've never had a CEL on my car in 7 years, and I'm not experiencing any issues with how the car runs...
...at least, not that I'm aware of. Is what I'm feeling as "normal" actually the car running at 100 percent? I don't know. How does anyone really know that answer?
As a matter of maintenance, I replaced the in-tank fuel filter and the PCV valve this summer, and I ran a can of BG44K through the fuel system. Everything remains fine, and there's been no noticeable change in how the engine runs.
So should I clean the MAF too, or would I be flirting with creating problems where none exist?
__________________
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
Does anyone have any opinion about cleaning the MAF as standard maintenance? I've never cleaned the MAF, have 53K miles on the car, and have been using the Apexi dry pop-charger for the last 30K miles. My mileage is excellent (just under 30 mpg), I've never had a CEL on my car in 7 years, and I'm not experiencing any issues with how the car runs...
...at least, not that I'm aware of. Is what I'm feeling as "normal" actually the car running at 100 percent? I don't know. How does anyone really know that answer?
As a matter of maintenance, I replaced the in-tank fuel filter and the PCV valve this summer, and I ran a can of BG44K through the fuel system. Everything remains fine, and there's been no noticeable change in how the engine runs.
So should I clean the MAF too, or would I be flirting with creating problems where none exist?
I've cleaned my MAF 5 times, never had a problem.
__________________
Life would be boring without the Maxima.
OK, I cleaned the MAF sensor today per these instructions. The sensor didn't look dirty, but I sprayed it down anyway, through the holes and over the resistor. Let it dry for 1/2 hour, put it all back together and hooked up the battery.
The car ran fine before cleaning the MAF, and continues to run just as well afterwords. For me, it just wasn't necessary.
However, this is a great write-up, and the pictures are perfect. It's helping countless people, so good job, Jason.
__________________
NWP phenolic intake spacers, Cattman y-pipe, Cattman 2.5" cat-back, Frankencar short-ram intake, Apexi pop charger, UR crank pulley, ES motor-mount and sub-mount bushings, Racingline FSTB, Progress RSB, STS mod w/ES bushings, Brembo blanks, Hawk ceramic pads, Goodyear Eagle F1's -- 54,000 original owner miles
Just did the MAF clean on my '01 Max using the CRC cleaner to try and clear a P0171 code. It WORKED !! Had to clear the SES lite with a scan tool but the code had become logged as a history code after 3 clean starts with nothing logged as current.
For grins I went to CarQuest and asked about a new MAF for future reference. They sell a guaranteed Nissan MAF reboxed as a "World Part" for $103 !! Seeing it takes 5 minutes to replace why go to the Squeeler for service?
ahhh.. i have a 5.5 gen and i just followed this procedure... and now i have a SES .. car runs fine tho. no idle problems.. and i even feel it pulling a tad bit better.. so im just gonna wait.. it'll clear itself sooner or later.. one thing i did notice tho was that my MAF did not look the same as the one pictured in the write up
I'm about to go this as well. Just bought the CRC MAF cleaner and I had the torx bits already. Though I will like to mention you'll need the special "tamper proof" torx bits/drives to get the MAF off. Doesn't look like the OP's screws have it, but mine do. I'll post pictures later.
I just bought the maf cleaner (forgot the screw though, damn it) my question before i even do this, can a bad maf or a maf going bad cause the car to throw different throttle codes??? if so which codes is most likely to come up... im getting a few throttle codes and im suspecting its the maf somehow (though i have no codes for it)
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
A bad MAF or one that is on the way out, could and could not throw any codes. Mine was bad and didn't have any codes or CEL.
__________________
Jarrod
2000 Maxima SE
White Pearl
5-Speed, short throw shifter
Dropped on Progress Springs & KYB GR2 Struts
True CAI
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley
CustomMaxima.com Front Strut Bar
yea thats wat im suspecting..... sputters til 3400 rpm then fine after
__________________
SHIFT_LOTS OF OIL
DCMAX current mods- 4th gen intake, 2.5" custom catback, NWP block off plate, 00SE tailight w/overlays, Rewired fog lights, Eyelid, JIC coilovers, FSTB, 3.0 OBX headers, SSIM...
95 White GXE- 15.1 sold... now 14.9 (car next to me in sig)
00 Sterling GXE- 15.0 (ebay intake, exhaust) my next love and beauty (crashed n sold)
02 Sterling GLE- 13.84@100 2.1'
Will also like to point out that a T-20 was a better fit than the T-15. The T-15 had just enough grip to turn it, but a T-20 is what I think the screws really are. I also had to use the "tamper proof" versions.
I just did a 120 MPH run on the i-state and the car never once hesitated. It also still had enough in it to go over 120 (I hit probably 122) when before it wouldn't go a tenth over 120.
Car also feels a lot more peppy, but I have no proof that it did anything on the low end.
I tried this procedure and didn't notice any difference after reassembly. Bought new MAF sensor and my power is back! Moral to the story: cleaning may work in some cases but dirt isn't the only cause of MAF sensor failure.
BTW: fantastic job in documenting the procedure with pictures!!!
First I need to mention a brief history of my 2K. I have an aftermarket intake with a factory oiled K&N filter, Y -pipe which removed one of the pre-cats. These are both about 5 years old. The car has had the Code P0140
O2 sensor for about 3-4 years and the P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve for about 1 year. Since this time the car would NOT go past 4K rpm on WOT or partial throttle and it has noticeable power loss with an idle of about 1K rpm while in DRIVE and 1500rpm while in PARK
I tried the MAF cleaning tonight and let the MAF sit for 1/2 hour after soaking it ( about 20 sprays in EACH of the inlets - the CRC canister states 10-15 i think). I did notice that the "sensors" in the MAF were dirty. I reinstalled the MAF and now the car idles at 1K rpm in DRIVE and after 20 seconds or so idles at 750-800 for about 10 seconds and goes back to 1K rpm and back again to about 800rpm and so on but the idle is now noticeably rough now. I am now able to rev it in PARK with partial throttle to over 5K now but when i try WOT while in PARK or while driving it will bog to about 2500-3000 rpm and it is now basically undriveable unless i accelerate lightly and then it will only reach about 4000 rpm . Went to AUTOZONE and they pulled my codes and i still have the P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve code with a NEW code of
P0171 - Fuel Injection System Too Lean (Bank 1)-which can be a MAF fault... what did i get this code now AFTER cleaning the MAF and what do you guys suggest i do now? >>> get a new MAF from DaveB or replace the IACV and the ECU....
ahhh.. i have a 5.5 gen and i just followed this procedure... and now i have a SES .. car runs fine tho. no idle problems.. and i even feel it pulling a tad bit better.. so im just gonna wait.. it'll clear itself sooner or later.. one thing i did notice tho was that my MAF did not look the same as the one pictured in the write up
you can get the code pulled and clear it see if it comes back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SterlingMist00
First I need to mention a brief history of my 2K. I have an aftermarket intake with a factory oiled K&N filter, Y -pipe which removed one of the pre-cats. These are both about 5 years old. The car has had the Code P0140
O2 sensor for about 3-4 years and the P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve for about 1 year. Since this time the car would NOT go past 4K rpm on WOT or partial throttle and it has noticeable power loss with an idle of about 1K rpm while in DRIVE and 1500rpm while in PARK
I tried the MAF cleaning tonight and let the MAF sit for 1/2 hour after soaking it ( about 20 sprays in EACH of the inlets - the CRC canister states 10-15 i think). I did notice that the "sensors" in the MAF were dirty. I reinstalled the MAF and now the car idles at 1K rpm in DRIVE and after 20 seconds or so idles at 750-800 for about 10 seconds and goes back to 1K rpm and back again to about 800rpm and so on but the idle is now noticeably rough now. I am now able to rev it in PARK with partial throttle to over 5K now but when i try WOT while in PARK or while driving it will bog to about 2500-3000 rpm and it is now basically undriveable unless i accelerate lightly and then it will only reach about 4000 rpm . Went to AUTOZONE and they pulled my codes and i still have the P0505 - Idle Air Control Valve / Auxiliary Air Control Valve code with a NEW code of
P0171 - Fuel Injection System Too Lean (Bank 1)-which can be a MAF fault... what did i get this code now AFTER cleaning the MAF and what do you guys suggest i do now? >>> get a new MAF from DaveB or replace the IACV and the ECU....
idling problem on a 5th gen is not always the MAF, IACV being dirty can cause idle problem.
as for P0171 I have no idea.
__________________
Life would be boring without the Maxima.
I did it for the first time and gave very good results, the second time I did the maf cleaning to be sure that no dirt was left and it became worst than ever, lot of lag, no power, engine wants to cut off....smells like buying a new one? I used elctrical contact cleaner, it could be the reason why
Well... here is an update. As I mentioned before the MAF cleaning for me with the CRC MAF cleaner did not work. My MAF was visibly dirty but it was/has failed.
I ordered and installed an NEW MAF from DaveB 2 days ago and I am amazed.
The car will be 10 years old next month and it has not felt this strong in about 3.5-4 years. It now revs all the way to 6500rpm again and pulls like a freight train! It feels the same way it felt after the 2nd year of ownership when I installed the INJEN intake.
the P0505 code still remains though.... so i will take apart the IACV and clean it and if that does not resolve the code I will replace the unit and then check the ECU for any burnt chips as I know my electronic engine mounts have failed.
I've cleaned my MAF with CRC twice with no negative results afterwards...however, no positive results either. My problem is sometimes the car pulls & sometimes it doesn't. I can floor it sometimes and then be at 5k rpms while at others I floor it and it's at 3k rpms and then picks up after a while. I think I'm due for a new MAF though I have no codes & my idle isn't rough.
mandyfig: if you go with the 2k1 MAF (22680-2Y001), about $80-$100. If you have a 5.5 gen, you can use the 2k1 and transfer the thermistor over & save $300.
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | MAF (2k1 w/swapped thermistor)
Cleaned mine on 4th gen few days ago with CRC cleaner, the only difference I noticed that my idle dropped from 800 to 650rpm. And looks like mileage is a bit better but I can't say how much still have half of the tank. Thanks for the post.
Id say if your MAF is dying or already dead, this wont make it better.
and remeber to thoroughly dry out the cleaner.
+1. I think this is where a lot of people get mixed up in their thinking; if your MAF is damaged, cleaning it won't fix it; however, if it's dirty, cleaning might have some effect. And there's probably a fine line between "dirty" & "damaged".
__________________ 137k miles
To-do: Belts, Fix suspension problem Major probs fixed: Lower oil pan | Radiator | EVAP canister/valve| VIAS Control Valve | Rear VC | MAF (2k1 w/swapped thermistor)
If you can't find the security torx screw bit you can remote the entire air box and clean the MAF inside the tube through the screen. That's what I did since I didn't know I could remove the MAF itself.
I did this the first time also. I am wondering how much it really did vs the entire removal. I will try removing the actual MAF sensor next time to really get in there.
.. car runs fine tho. no idle problems.. and i even feel it pulling a tad bit better.. so im just gonna wait.. it'll clear itself sooner or later.. one thing i did notice tho was that my MAF did not look the same as the one pictured in the write up 
Linear Mode
