I did not have this code before I changed my sparks. I know it mean it is a bad coil but are the coils that sensitive that after i did my sparks, they die? Is there a way to pinpoint which coil is bad to replace? Thank you very much.
Double check the connections. You may not have on pushed on the plug all the way or you tweaked a wire.
I just did the test where I disconnect one plug at a time. all of them seems to be idling the same. I just checked the wires, nothing seems nipped or tweaked. Any other prognosis? Thanks for your help. Really hate to shell out $300 for it. It is a 2000 max btw.
Ok. So its not the coils? I will recheck the connectors. The engine is somehwat smooth when idling with all 6 plugged in but after i take one out, it'll start to idle roughly. the rough factor varies from coil to coil. but still noticeable.
Ok. So its not the coils? I will recheck the connectors. The engine is somehwat smooth when idling with all 6 plugged in but after i take one out, it'll start to idle roughly. the rough factor varies from coil to coil. but still noticeable.
Ok. I took out every coil and I tested them with an multimeter. From 1-6 in this order:
1-3-5
2-4-6
Here are the readings. The reason for K Ohms and M Ohms, is because my multimeter only had the Auto Ohm option, I couldn't choose 20k Ohms to test.
#1
+1, -2 : 1.427 k Ohms
+1, -3 : 8.19 m Ohms
-1, +2 : 1.423 k Ohms
-1, +3 : i
-2, +3 : i
+2, -3 : 8.52 m Ohms
#2
+1, -2 : 1.540 k Ohms
+1, -3 : 7.12m Ohms
-1, +2 : 1.538 k Ohms
-1, +3 : i
-2, +3 : i
+2, -3 : 7.23 m Ohms
#3
+1, -2 : 1.438 k Ohms
+1, -3 : 8.01 m Ohms
-1, +2 : 1.438 k Ohms
-1, +3 : i
-2, +3 : i
+2, -3 : 8.18 m Ohms
#4
+1, -2 : 1.601 k Ohms
+1, -3 : 7.46 m Ohms
-1, +2 : 1.607 k Ohms
-1, +3 : i
-2, +3 : i
+2, -3 : 7.47 m Ohms
#5
+1, -2 : 1.453 k Ohms
+1, -3 : 8.28 m Ohms
-1, +2 : 1.455 k Ohms
-1, +3 : i
-2, +3 : i
+2, -3 : 8.33 m Ohms
#6
+1, -2 : 1.59 k Ohms
+1, -3 : 7.48 m Ohms
-1, +2 : 1.59 k Ohms
-1, +3 : i
-2, +3 : i
+2, -3 : 7.60 m Ohms
i read that the copper provides a better spark and I don't mind changing them every 15k. Do you think the .40 - .44 gap might be the problem? I do notice it idles a little rougher than when I had the original OEM NGK Plats.
alot of people had success using cooper plugs. Guess i'll go and get some platinum ones tomorrow. Can you please explain why these plugs are wrong? i got the NGK V-power copper. And would a gap of .40 cause the code and rough idling? Thanks
Our gap is in the .40s so i doubt thats the issue. I didnt gap my IX's when i put them in. Although our cars are VERY picky with its plugs. I remember a guy in here put those crappy Pulstar plugs and the car went into limp mode.
__________________
More R&D in the lab, leads to more feelings hurt on the street
I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago, changed plugs and got a P1320 a few days later. It was in fact a bad coil = bad luck/coincidence
Rather than changing all the coils when i got a P1320, i bought some used ones off ebay and replaced them one at a time as they went.
I no longer have the car, and have 2 coils sitting around, if you are interested in them PM me - $40 shipped
p1320, p0300=crap shoot
Can you check your coils by unplugging them one at a time while the car is running or will it mess something up? I know on older cars you could check the plugs by doing this but I don't know about all this electrical stuff.
p1320, p0300=crap shoot
Can you check your coils by unplugging them one at a time while the car is running or will it mess something up? I know on older cars you could check the plugs by doing this but I don't know about all this electrical stuff.
Yes, you can. Make sure to do that when the engine IS misfiring, not when it's running smooth. As you unplug each one of them at a time, whenever a good one is disconnected, the engine will run even rougher; when you unplug the bad one, there should be no change in the "roughness" of the idling. I had a bad one in my car but ended up changing all of them. I personnaly believe that a set of new ones works better than one new and 5 worn out. (The ones sold by Autozone and/or Amazon.com have the grey dots, sometimes covered by a silver sticker)
just replaced mine today, yeah that was a little hassle, but manage to do it in 90 min. personally i yhink any ngk plugs will do the job, i put ngk platinium gp (the recommended one is PLFR5A, mine are PLFR5AGP slight but better diffrence). if you are having code i would just buy new coils packs at any local automotive store and test them. in a case if coils would be alright return new ones. no idea what else can give you that code
aight guys thanks for the help. Diag. test showed I had a bad connection to a fuel inj. on cyl. 2. djlorec-I used the NGK IX they seemed to be pretty good till the shuttering started happening-still a strong car though. Thanks again guys.
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