Thinking of buying a 5th/5.5 Gen? Please post all questions and info here.... - Page 2

UKmaxima · 03-19-2008, 08:38 AM

Bought my 02 SE Feb 07 with 79K on it. A year and 30K later and the only problems are related to the transmission - and this is just starting. I've yet to investigate this issue further. It maybe a cheap sensor, or it maybe an expensive assembly.

Gas mileage mixed for me is 24 - 27.5mpg and I get on it often.

Whitebread · 03-19-2008, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottwax

Oil consumption seems to be the biggest issue, the poll here shows that about 10% of the people with a 5.5 gen have problems with excessive oil consumption. Wheel bearings are also an issue, IMO because if the bearings are repacked or the rotor is removed to be turned or replaced, people cheap out and reuse the locknut or don't tighten it to factory specs (250 ftlbs).

Only issues I have had with mine since I got it about 4 months ago was the wheel bearing problem that appears to be a reassmbly issue (so it really can't be considered a design fault) and a bad thermostat, which was $22 to replace.

Huh?
I could have sworn the center lock nut did not have to be removed to replace the rotors on out cars.............

Maybe I'm just wrong.

*Scottwax* · 03-19-2008, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whitebread

Huh?
I could have sworn the center lock nut did not have to be removed to replace the rotors on out cars.............

Maybe I'm just wrong.

The lock nuts had obviously been removed at some point and the brakes on my car were nearly brand new when I got it. Just put two and two together...

maxima-junky · 03-19-2008, 03:47 PM

If you have a Maixma, of any year, and you don't put a fluid cooler on the transmission you are asking for it. Thats the first thing I would do after I picked it up.

Torgus · 03-19-2008, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxima-junky

If you have a Maixma, of any year, and you don't put a fluid cooler on the transmission you are asking for it. Thats the first thing I would do after I picked it up.

and why do you say that? i'd love to know. as i have had many with 0 tranny problems and no external oil coolers...

sorry to hijack.

give your car a good tune up if it hasn't had one in a while: plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, air filter, check what is rattling it's probably a heat shield, i don't know if 5th gens throw a code for a bad knock sensor 4th's don't so check that with a dmm, other then that they don't need much in terms of routine maintenance.

in all honesty they don't get amazing gas mileage.

good luck

Whitebread · 03-19-2008, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottwax

The lock nuts had obviously been removed at some point and the brakes on my car were nearly brand new when I got it. Just put two and two together...

O, because I was gonna say

00MaximaGXE · 03-19-2008, 07:44 PM

I dont know about you guys but I get about 420 to a tank highway and about 315 on city roads. I drive it hard too

I too have a dash rattle not rattling all the time just when cold and going over bumps sounds metallic metal against metal real quick. Doesnt bother me..I also have NOISY tires.. sounds like an airplane taking off

P1320 SES CODE and the wonderful P0430 are the only ones Ive had to worry about still havent found the p1320 Bad coil yet, Just keep clearing it until Spring gets here when I can work outside and not freeze to death

MADE · 03-19-2008, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00MaximaGXE

I dont know about you guys but I get about 420 to a tank highway and about 315 on city roads. I drive it hard too

WTF am I doing wrong, any one else getting anything close? Problems I occured thus far

$ Bad O2 Sensor(blue one can't think of the more descriptive name)
$ Passenger wheel bearing and hub assy
*Radiator (road hazard It had nothing to do with Nissan quality)
Bose 6 Disc (POS honestly the main reason I don't drive much) Annoying

Some random bogging problem which went away after Nissan raped me for a diagonistic and told me I had a bad coil and they couldn't troubleshoot or test coils and recommed all 6 be replaced total cost 700 dollars. I told them they are full of **** and drove the car until the problem arose again 2 years later still hasn't come back.Thank god I'm not a woman or ignorant.
$= Removed and Replaced

All in all I'm happy with my Maxima and will only trade it for a G3?,M?5 or something German.

USRacer900 · 03-22-2008, 09:30 PM

Well, only one problem that I know of. The AC/heat doesn't work indicating a blower motor from what I could tell from talking to the owner. Is this an expensive problem and how hard is it to fix myself? I typically do all work myself.

Car has 160,000 miles, auto and leather. What are problems I need to be aware of or are there specific areas to check out? I had a 96' I30 a few years ago and it was bulletproof. I'm assuming these 5th gen Maxima's are fairly solid as well?

Thank you for your advice.

**SEmy2K2go** · 03-22-2008, 09:32 PM

The blower motors are common problems. You can rebuild the one in the car, or look for a replacement at a junkyard.

*nsnrider* · 03-23-2008, 10:06 AM

blower motor resistor maybee the culprit? Anyways, these are good cars, as long as the previous owner was on top of the maintanace, you should be fine, look at the shocks, maf, coil packs, o2 sensors, make sure all have been replaced by now, personally I wouldn't buy a car with 160k miles but thats just me. I hope you're getting it for a good price...

USRacer900 · 03-23-2008, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsnrider

blower motor resistor maybee the culprit? Anyways, these are good cars, as long as the previous owner was on top of the maintanace, you should be fine, look at the shocks, maf, coil packs, o2 sensors, make sure all have been replaced by now, personally I wouldn't buy a car with 160k miles but thats just me. I hope you're getting it for a good price...

Thanks for the info. Believe it or not, apparently he's selling it for $1500. Supposed to look at it today.

USRacer900 · 03-23-2008, 02:26 PM

Correction, just found out it's a 2000 model. Would that change the blower situation?

(have yet to look at the car so I don't know what condition it's in)

pavelsmax · 04-01-2008, 09:41 AM

Hey guys,

I'm going to look at the car mentioned in the title. It is a one owner vehicle black w/ black leather, heated. The car has 50,000 miles on it and the seller is asking $13,999. Is that a reasonable price. I've seen its under Kbb value for the car.

I don't know much about 5th gens but have driven my 4th gen since 2002. Is there any thing I should look for specific on the car? To my knowledge it has never been modified.

Thanks for your help and if I'm lucky I'll be posting much more often in this part of the forum!

*MacGarnicle* · 04-01-2008, 10:06 AM

indeed, read the stickies because there ARE a few things you should be looking out for.

At the end of the day, this forum could tell you the car isn't worth more than $10,000, but how does that help with your negotiations? The dealer doesn't care. You should always try to get the car for less than it's posted but whether we say its worth $11,000 or $12,000 won't really impact on how things play out

*nsnrider* · 04-01-2008, 10:15 AM

before you begin negotiating for a price, make sure it doesn't have major problems, have your mechanic put it on the lift and go through it thoroughly. Price is always negotiable.

wyche89 · 04-01-2008, 02:17 PM

if it is indeed in good condition, 14,000 is a good price for the car... mine was stickered at 15 with 49k on it

maxdriver10 · 04-01-2008, 06:29 PM

the kelly blue book values is always overpriced, because it is what dealers use to determine what to charge, thus resulting in inflated prices...a better site is www.edmunds.com, they're values are more reasonable...on kelly my 2000 GLE fully loaded in fair condition with 83,000+ miles was listed in the high nines, while edmunds said it was closer to $8500...got the car, completely registered with new brakes for $8800....however that is a very good price for a 2003 titanium edition with that mileage...i would try to lower the price, but if they are unwilling to budge, i would shell out the extra coin and get it anyway

*ZIPPIN* · 04-01-2008, 08:07 PM

If it doesn't burn oil, bose works, no accidents, no grinding of gears, I say 12.5 would be a good offer for her. How are tires/brakes etc?

Griller07 · 04-01-2008, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZIPPIN

If it doesn't burn oil, bose works, no accidents, no grinding of gears, I say 12.5 would be a good offer for her.

Pretty much what ^^^ said. Don't wait too long though, make a decision cuz theres always gona be someone else wanting it

*Scottwax* · 04-02-2008, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wyche89

if it is indeed in good condition, 14,000 is a good price for the car... mine was stickered at 15 with 49k on it

One of the Dallas area members picked up a grey lustre '03 Anniversary edition (automatic) with just over 40k miles for $8900!

*sparks03max* · 04-02-2008, 06:35 AM

yeah those 02/03 black/black TE 6spd's sell very quickly, too bad you didn't get it.

**Cutler** · 04-03-2008, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scottwax

One of the Dallas area members picked up a grey lustre '03 Anniversary edition (automatic) with just over 40k miles for $8900!

2001 was the Anniversary edition...

wyche89 · 04-03-2008, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cutler

2001 was the Anniversary edition...

maybe he meant TE.. that's basically the "anniversary edition" of the 5.5 gens minus the body kit

pl_silverado · 04-03-2008, 06:45 PM

I'll sell you my 02 6 spd for $ 9000

*ZIPPIN* · 04-03-2008, 07:17 PM

Depending on who you ask, TE are hard to buy. Not too hard to find. But you fuq around and low ball, someone will beat you to it. Happened to me at least 3 times, bfr I bought mine.