5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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I've read several threads that deal with the intermittent and sometimes terminal Bose woofer cut off problem, woofer stops working. Some have identified what was thought to be the cause of the problem; little black box shorted, bad connectors, amp not working, and etc. All are good probable causes but none seemed to really nail down the problem and in turn provide a repair that absolutely corrected the problem without removing or modifying parts or having the problem return.
In any case, this is my humble attempt to provide a definitive cause and solution that eliminates the problem for the 2000 Maxima.
The harness and circuit board pictured below appeared to have no continuity problems. I then examined the circuit board under a magnifying glass and found the 5 soldered joints that are circled in the last picture which connect the little black box to the circuit board were all broken. I could barely see the broken joints. I re-soldered each joint. This has eliminated the woofer cut off problem.
Repair Procedure
Remove the harness in the picture below which is located on the side of the woofer housing(do so by sliding the two connectors off of the black housing of the woofer)
Slide the zip tie off of the two joined connections
Unplug the 2 connectors
Remove the harness by detaching the 2 tie downs from the base that the woofer is attached to (do this by removing the woofer grill on the rear parcel shelf and pushing the tie downs through their holes)
Carefully cut through the foam and plastic cover under the foam to fully expose the circuit board (see picture below)
I'm planning on doing a total replacement of the speakers, HU, wiring, etc in the next week or two. Since I am having the intermittancy problem of my sub working on occasion right now, i'll try this out before hand and let ya'll know how it worked for me. I located the problem to this area yesterday, however, i thought the problem was in the connecting bracket (plug) going comming out of the amp into the woofer. Thanks for the tip.
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White '03 Max GLE: Bone Stock (For Now)
this did not work for me ...does anyone know if it is at all possible to purchase another circut board for the sub?
It's possible to completely remove the "circuit board". As far as I understand it (my stereo knowledge is limited) that board is used to cutoff higher frequencies being sent to the sub. If you completely bypass it, the sub should work, but all frequencies will be sent. It's a double-edged sword since you'll get some noise you're not used to, but also here some of the lows that weren't low enough to make it through the filter.
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Last edited by PadawanKnight; 03-29-2008 at 05:00 PM.
I'm just guessing, since i haven't taken it out and looked at it yet, but he probably just snipped the wires and tied them off together (or soldered them), making sure he matched up which the wires going into the board with the ones comming out.
I haven't seen the board yet though, so if this just seems laughable or isn't right i appologize, but that is where i would start unless told otherwise.
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White '03 Max GLE: Bone Stock (For Now)
Just undo the connectors that go to the CB and hook the remaining ends together... I did this and the only downside is the turn-on "thump." But then again, I removed my sub amp a while back (or rather, I misplaced it...).
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Old: 2000 Maxima GLE, Sold
New: 2007 Subaru STI Limited, "The Gentleman's STI"
well i'm not sure exactly what i used when i attempted to fix the problem, one of my granfathers tools. it was just a handheld soldering tool that pluged into an electrical outlet, just make sure if you tryu this that the "wire" you solder with is resin based
Good Call -- mine just started cutting out.
I'll be yanking this piece o sheet out and attempting to solder -- hopefully that will be it.
I'd LOVE to replace the whole "Blows" system - but practicality dictates that I leave it stock -- hence, I shall attempt the fix.
thanks for the timesly post!
gr
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"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself." ~D H Lawrence
I shoulda known better - the 5.5 gen Blows Sub is totally different.
took it all apart - found no anomalies on the circuit board.
Best I cud do was to squirt some di-electric silicone grease in the molex connector on the back of the sub when I reassembled it.
It still works - but no idea if that fixed it.
2002-2003 guys be warned -- our bose subs ARE different from the 00-01 guys.
gr
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"I never saw a wild thing feel sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself." ~D H Lawrence
any idea how I would do that...I mean have the circut board bypassed?
I did this and it sounds fine, just remove the piggy back plug that is between the reg power cord and the sub female adapter it works fine. My sub cut out and i just did this quick fix sounds fine!!
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Whered that VQ go??
1. 2003 titanium edit blacked out,Hks Exhaust, Jim wolf Pop Charger, 17Deg advance, Nex Coilovers, staggered 20" (yaya i know)
2. 2000 pearl white 5 spd all basic bolt ons g35 whls, it was good while it lasted.
3 87 stang Project 306ci built motor full susp. (in garage) its sloow .....
any idea how I would do that...I mean have the circut board bypassed?
take out the middle conector that goes between the power wire and the sub, it is wrapped in foam. It wil work fine did it about a year ago still sounds great!!
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Whered that VQ go??
1. 2003 titanium edit blacked out,Hks Exhaust, Jim wolf Pop Charger, 17Deg advance, Nex Coilovers, staggered 20" (yaya i know)
2. 2000 pearl white 5 spd all basic bolt ons g35 whls, it was good while it lasted.
3 87 stang Project 306ci built motor full susp. (in garage) its sloow .....
take out the middle conector that goes between the power wire and the sub, it is wrapped in foam. It wil work fine did it about a year ago still sounds great!!
show me what u mean middle connector please....i'm audio uninclined
FWIW, I just removed that part altogether and plugged the sub in directly. The only, noticeable, difference is the thump sound when you turn the stereo on.
I've had it like this for well over a year with no adverse affect. I've also had it like this on stock and aftermarket HUs.
Oh ok, so those joints are already soldered then. I thought that was a before picture.
That is a before picture. As the directions say, RE-solder the joints. That means solder them again. Carefully read the post again. It states what the problem was, the condition of the circuit board and the corrective action.
That is a before picture. As the directions say, RE-solder the joints. That means solder them again. Carefully read the post again. It states what the problem was, the condition of the circuit board and the corrective action.
Ha, I see now. I missed that part because I was just looking at the pics (duh). Got it and now I'm going to try this. Thanks..
The CB in my 01 AE is different than the one pictured. There is no small CB like this one, only one inside the outer cover that bolts onto the back of the bose sub. I pulled it apart and I don't see any broken solder joints on either side of the board. With the CB installed, the sub cuts in and out when I tap the box that holds the CB.
As far as bypassing it, there are 5 wires going into that cirquit board. Full 12V power, ground, and 3 smaller (maybe 18 guage) wires. I'd rather not give the sub the whole range anyway.
The CB in my 01 AE is different than the one pictured. There is no small CB like this one, only one inside the outer cover that bolts onto the back of the bose sub. I pulled it apart and I don't see any broken solder joints on either side of the board. With the CB installed, the sub cuts in and out when I tap the box that holds the CB.
As far as bypassing it, there are 5 wires going into that cirquit board. Full 12V power, ground, and 3 smaller (maybe 18 guage) wires. I'd rather not give the sub the whole range anyway.
i had trouble with my subs cutting out and i had eliminated the 8'' bose one and the pLte for it so more air could pass through and i all of a sudden had no subs i had used the idea of removing the entire circuit board and have found this the best solution this site rocks!
HELP!!!! Okay, so first I tried soldering the parts on the circuit board that were circled above. Well, that didnt work but it didnt surprise me because I didnt really know what i was doing--I just got the solder hot and tried to get some to stick to each joint, but it was difficult for me to do this because it seemed like the solder wouldnt stick because it would solidfy(sp?) so quickly after being melted. So, now I disconnected the wires to the circuit board and stripped some of the rubber wire coating from each wire and have tied(wrapped I guess) wires from the same color of wire together. STILL MY BASS HAS NOT COME BACK. Any idea what I might be doing wrong? I believe there are three colors of wires--red, blue, and black. I really want my bass back...Any help or insight is appreciated!
HELP!!!! Okay, so first I tried soldering the parts on the circuit board that were circled above. Well, that didnt work but it didnt surprise me because I didnt really know what i was doing--I just got the solder hot and tried to get some to stick to each joint, but it was difficult for me to do this because it seemed like the solder wouldnt stick because it would solidfy(sp?) so quickly after being melted. So, now I disconnected the wires to the circuit board and stripped some of the rubber wire coating from each wire and have tied(wrapped I guess) wires from the same color of wire together. STILL MY BASS HAS NOT COME BACK. Any idea what I might be doing wrong? I believe there are three colors of wires--red, blue, and black. I really want my bass back...Any help or insight is appreciated!
That's the point of solder... Heat it up, it melts to flow and adhere to the wires, then quickly solidifies. You can try to add some extra solder to the connections, but I'd recommend you remove the whole black box via the connectors. Bypass it entirely and you should be good. You'll get the turn on thump, but so what?
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Old: 2000 Maxima GLE, Sold
New: 2007 Subaru STI Limited, "The Gentleman's STI"
...does anyone know if it is at all possible to purchase another circut board for the sub?
Heat it up, it melts to flow and adhere to the wires, then quickly solidifies. You can try to add some extra solder to the connections, but I'd recommend you remove the whole black box via the connectors. Bypass it entirely and you should be good. You'll get the turn on thump, but so what?
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