SkoorbMax

I was "lucky" recently to find that both CV boots on my 2000 SE have cracks in them and I've been running long enough to bungle the joints (so I won't just replace the boot). To save some coin I'll be doing the work myself with "new" autozone axles at about half the price of the better raxles.com ones. I have done the passenger side on a '97 maxima before and presume the '00 is no harder. Is this the case, and is the driver's side the same as the passenger? For some reason no autozone locally stocks the left--only the right axle, so I have to special order for the part.

A local shop wants $300 for the labor, which I think is steep (I think I can do both in several hours) and they said alignment doesn't need to be done after axle replacement.

Thanks !

Drockb418

iTrader: (10)

my friend did mine and it took about 40 mins or so and i got mine from napa with a lifetime warranty and no probs with it so far

NisTech

it will only now screw alignment if you take the ball joint off as opposed to strut bolts. That is the proper way of doing it, yet ppl do it otherwise. Te take ball joint off you need new cotterpin and hammer it nice onto the knuckle without hitting anything till it separates from spindle/knuckle

Maxima112

iTrader: (16)

i just did this 2 weeks ago. the passenger side is not the same but, not totally different. make sure you get a breaker bar. i broke my large ratchet (husky) into pieces...liquid wrench is good too. I also bought mine from autozone. if you need any help let me know. i think i ran into almost every problem. lol im fairly simple so if i could do i think most can.

btw the axle bolt that autozone gives you is a different size than the OEM one. I borrowed a socket head that fit their bolt on the replacement. but when i got home ready to do the job. it was too big... i had to go to lowes and get a "smaller" socket.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Drivers side is much easier to do, no secondary axle joint/bracket to mess with.

Alignment goes out if you remove strut bolts, NOT if you remove ball joint. I did mine by removing the ball joint and my alignment was dead on afterwards.

jhay

iTrader: (2)

djfrestyl - I'm getting ready to do mine too. The book tells me to remove the right side axel and drift out the left. It sounds like that isn't the case. How did you do yours?

Thanks
Jim

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

What do you mean by "drift out the left" - and what isn't the case?

jhay

iTrader: (2)

Drift out the left: The book says remove right axle first, then disconnect left side, and then insert screwdriver and tap out. I believe the screwdriver is inserted thru the opening from the right axle removal.

Isn't the case: Referring to when you removed your left axle, it sounds like you didn't have to remove the right and tap out.

Orgullo

iTrader: (47)

There is three scews right past the secondary bend on the passenger side axle. If it weren't for the heat shield covering the rear headers then it would be a little easier.

The hardest part about the passenger side is the three screws. Just make sure you've got some extenders, your going to need them.

Drivers side is cake.

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

Should take about 45 min once you have all your tools gathered and in place.

1) Jack car up

2) Drain fluid

3) remove tire and axle nut (32mm)

4) remove two strut bolts (one side is 19mm the other is 17mm)

5) remove break line clip (you should be able tho push it off using a flathead screwdriver)

6) swing hub out of the way and pull the spindle out of the wheel side. you should now be able to just pull the axle out of the transmission using it like a slide hammer.

7) before you install the new axle i would suggest buying a new seal from the dealer which is about $10. make sure to use some all purpose grease when installing and mount it flush with the outer edge of the transmission not all the way back into the hole or it will leak. You can use your 32mm socket and an extension to tap the seal in evenly.

8) Installing the shaft is the opposite of removal.

good luck!

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

I didn't have to remove the driver's side to do the passenger.

Feldman is right on the money, except I didn't drain any fluid (nor had to, nothing came out when I removed the axle) and I didn't touch the 2 strut bolts, I removed the ball joint castle nut and moved the spindle out of the way that way.

Drockb418

iTrader: (10)

i just had the biggest pain in the but installing the right side a week ago. the axle would not come off the half saft. so i had to make my own.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What exactly do you mean the axle wouldn't come off of the half shaft? Make your own what?

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

You must be auto because I forgot to do it about 3 and a half quarts came pouring out (i have a 5 speed manual by the way).

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

That is correct, sir. Didn't consider that.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Should be easier to remove to driver's side, it doesn't have that bearing support like the passenger side!

flyingbanana

How do you know when your axles need to be replaced.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

either your boots have been busted for a while and the CV's are full of dirt and grime or making plenty of noise during turning! outside boots can be replaced on the car, just slide out of the hubs.

jisleyjr

Would that noise be a howl/grinding noise? I noticed a noise when i put on my new wheels and tires, i always assumed it was them causing the noise.

I noticed grease on the inside of my wheels when i was washing the car. Then i cranked the steering wheel and the driver side boot is busted and it looks like the passenger side is too.

Looks like i am getting my hands dirty for once on this car, first time in 3 years.

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

sounds like your shafts need replacing but i would guess the grinding/howling noise is the dust shield. check them when you are changing the shafts. you can gap them with a screwdriver

jisleyjr

Finished installing the driver side cv shaft. What a pain in the butt. Would have been a quick job if i had impact tools. Needed help getting the oil seal in, not enough room to work to tap it in while under car. And getting the shaft out of the hub sucked. It was slightly rusted. After some penetrating oil and some 10lb hammer action it came out.

Dealership in town quoted me $150 to install new shafts on each side, that is with me providing the parts. I think i'll just drop it off for the passenger side.

Doesn't seem to howl as much now on the driver side. I was worried that the bearings were going out but there is no play in the wheel.