Replacing Alternator - Page 5

vinco · 07-14-2010, 03:33 PM

Just to pipe in on this to clarify something that screwed me up when I did mine the first time: the tensioner nut (or "Strut Nut", as pointed out in the picture in Post #138 in this thread) must be turned to the LEFT to loosen the belt. If you take it apart, you will see that it is actually reverse-threaded, in order to loosen the belt to the left.

When my tensioner bolt broke (rusted tight, but it probably didn't help that I was trying to turn it to the right to loosen it - which would be the correct direction if it wasn't reverse-threaded), I found another one at a pick-a-part yard. They wouldn't sell me just the bolt and nut - they sold me the whole shebang including the pulley. I got it for 6 bucks, and they gave a 60 or 90 day warranty on the part. The tensioner is the same part for 1995 through at least 2003 Maximas/I-30/I-35'S, and it may very well be the same part on 6th-gen Maximas also - no experience to be able to tell you.

Good thread!

PadawanKnight · 07-31-2010, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ATX02SE6spd

Okay, now I've done it. I've stripped the tensioner pulley nut and can't figure out how to get it off. The nut removers I have won't fit in that space. I don't think a nutcracker will work because of the washer part of the nut (or will it?). I'm at a loss. Any ideas. I stripped it with a box-end, by the way. After applying a bunch of Blaster. That guy won't budge...

Need same advice. I have a nut that is starting to get rounded from my attempts to remove it. It's my own fault that it started to get rounded in the first place. I was working from driver's side of car facing passenger's side and didn't "switch" directions in my head. When I was attempting to turn the nut to the left from my view point, I didn't realize it was turning it to the right until it was too late.

Even vice grips haven't had any luck getting the nut to turn. Is a nut splitter my best option? I need to get the alt replaced tomorrow so that I can make it to work on Monday. Alt was putting out "0" when I got it tested.

mandyfig · 08-02-2010, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinco

Just to pipe in on this to clarify something that screwed me up when I did mine the first time: the tensioner nut (or "Strut Nut", as pointed out in the picture in Post #138 in this thread) must be turned to the LEFT to loosen the belt. If you take it apart, you will see that it is actually reverse-threaded, in order to loosen the belt to the left.

When my tensioner bolt broke (rusted tight, but it probably didn't help that I was trying to turn it to the right to loosen it - which would be the correct direction if it wasn't reverse-threaded), I found another one at a pick-a-part yard. They wouldn't sell me just the bolt and nut - they sold me the whole shebang including the pulley. I got it for 6 bucks, and they gave a 60 or 90 day warranty on the part. The tensioner is the same part for 1995 through at least 2003 Maximas/I-30/I-35'S, and it may very well be the same part on 6th-gen Maximas also - no experience to be able to tell you.

Good thread!

Kudos to the OP and subsequent contributors.

joedzz · 08-04-2010, 03:39 PM

Did you notice the alternator ever making a whining sound?

Nelsito65 · 08-04-2010, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joedzz

Did you notice the alternator ever making a whining sound?

The alternator does make a whining noise. At least that was the case with my car. I had to replace it when it died a couple of months ago and the whining I was hearing, that went along with the RPM's, is gone for good.

mandyfig · 08-05-2010, 05:22 AM

No whining. I mean no whining from alt.

pattyt · 08-27-2010, 12:50 AM

Got the two lights of horror yesterday coming from home, replaced the battery today with a new one and no changes, going to check the connections tomorrow. This will be the second time im changing the Alt within 2 years, so I just read the entire thread to brush up on my knowledge and technique. One thing i can vividly remember is that when i did it previously, i found when the A/C compressor was dropped, I had the HARDEST time getting the alternator out. There just was not enough space for it to slip out and I eventually had to seriously and forcefully yank it out. Any suggestions to possibly omitting this ??? I believe it was completetly lowered to its full extent. Thanks everyone !