cgilley

This thread was invaluable. I had to do this on an 89, same issue. Did not bother trying to connect the engine block clamp, I'll zip tie it later.

But, I hope there is negative karma on the engineer who designed this hose. In 40 years, I've only seen a Nissan hose fail.

There are other things about my Max I've notice that make me go hmmm, and just question the overall quality. The biggest example is the oil consumption of what should be a perfect engine. Seems to me there are only two things going for Max's these days - they have decent performance, and they are cheap used.

jdichter

Hey everyone,

I need to replace this high pressure line in my 2002 I35. I've gone to two dealers in Toronto and been quoted $500!!! (And what's with the requirement to be a total dismissive douchbage at the Inifiniti dealers in Canada? urghghg)

Can anyone supply me with a part number for this?

Has anyone found this part in Canada for a reasonable price?


Thank you kindly.

Will

iTrader: (2)

Which Infiniti stealership was this? Markham Infiniti?

The part is very expensive. Your alternative is an aftermarket unit made by a company called Gates that will be around $200-ish, but makes a slight whining noise vs. the OEM one.

The part# is 49720-5Y700. You either have OEM as the option (and there is only one left in all of Canada in Vancouver) or the aplenty aftermarket one - if you can live with a slight whine. Good luck. I'm hoping mine never goes.

FrankA33

iTrader: (15)

Go to your local auto parts store and get the Edelman 92037, everything is supplied.
Also, you dont need much to do this job, fairly easy to do, I was surprised.
Refer to post number 86 on page 3 : gold, imho, especially the dead bleed and live bleed part.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

The reason why the 5th Gens fail sooner than the 4th Gen high Pressure hose is due to the 5th gen having a smaller P/S oil cooler than the 4th Gen which is about 3-4 times longer! The good thing is I believe They will fit on a 5th gen as well.....Or you can go aftermarket with units from Permacool, etc

http://shop.perma-cool.com/Specialty-Coolers_c17.htm

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

on that info....


Sent from my iPad using and abusin Maxima.Org

young1976

Sorry all if anything I say below is a repeat, because I got tired after reading through 6 pages... and have a very good idea what I have to do, thank you all...

Anyways, My 2k SE 5sp is now 220,000 miles and I think I first noticed wetness under the rear valve cover block back around 210,000miles... I did notice the fluid dropped a little so I figured, great pump leaking... but it was probably coming from the hose leak up top... (didn't know at the time) So I just added fluid and kept an eye on it. It never dropped after that. Recently over the summer I noticed if I have the AC on the belt(s) would squeal unless I momentarily turn off the AC and then back on and all is well... maybe oil on belt?

So yesterday I noticed whining when I turned the wheel. The car never whined... I'm thinking check power steering, something's wrong. so I open the hood, and lone and behold low fluid... and I see wetness over by the passenger strut tower... I knew it was the hose and after research found this thread and found several choice hoses available. I've read a review on pepboys of a buyer buying the hose that Pepboys sells and it made a whine and after putting on an OEM hose, no more whine... so I started looking for OE hoses, part number 49720-2Y90A . Found 2 seller on ebay selling them, not cheap but not that bad either... But I did find a Dorman part on partsgeek.com. The Dorman part looks the same as the OEM part but without the pressure sensor http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ring_line.html

And Partsgeek.com also has the OEM hose for 2002-2003 http://www.partsgeek.com/6yc4j31-nis...sure-hose.html
and Dorman for 2002-2003
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ring_line.html

Looking at their part numbers, the Dorman 2002 part number is the same as the 2000 Dorman part number. So maybe the OES original part for 2002 is the same as 2000?

Either way, a little more research for me to find out exactly what the differences are and I'll have to make a decision to get one, not the cheap ones, but one that looks like the original design at minimum...

I think just the middle bracket is different...

02-03 OEM Hose part # 49720-5Y700 AND copper washers 49726-Y0100 X2

I've found many more oem hoses on ebay.

redrock5432

young1976,
on 02 I used one of these. description
purchased on ebay.
amazon is also selling here
take a quick read of comments on amazon on whine. ymmv.
here is my install report
post if you need help.

kenton

I have read through this entire thread. So i hope I am not asking a question that has been asked. I lost the Banjo bolt for the HP line. The dealership informed me that it is nationally back ordered. Does anyone know the exact measurements of the bolt? One post had mentioned that it is 16mmx1.5 But what it the thread/bolt length? I really appreciate any help with this.

Thanks,
Matt

redrock5432

Matt,
I don't know the measurements.
This would be a good part to get at a junk/savage yard. They don't really wear out and it should not be too expensive and you would be getting an exact fit/size. Just inspect part for clean threads and under side of nut for smooth surface, as this will be the sealing surface used by copper washer.

egali045

make sure the hose is replaced before it leaks all over the control arm. That happened to me and I had to replace the ball joint because the fluid ripped the rubber and everything.

Soblue98

Do NOT let a shop replace the hose, im 17 and my older brother and i got it done no problems. Hardest part is getting banjobolt lined up with the new smash washers. Just a tip of advice, once you have the new hose on tight just fill powersteering to cold min and turn the wheel lock to lock for 10 mins to get air out of the system. Easy as pie, dont pay a shop to do it. Its too simple for that

cdoublejj

lets clarify that further, turn thew wheel back forth for 10 minutes WITH THE CAR OFF, start the car ONLY after you don't this other wise the air bubble get trapped in the system.

I did this with an after market hose and it's been nothing but solid ever since.

MaxSpeedSE

iTrader: (3)

I read most of this thread because i'm working on replacing my high pressure hose on my wife's 2001 Nissan Maxima. I got the old hose off the only problem I'm having is removing the pressure switch sensor, which is attached to the top bracket. The new hose did not come with this sensor. No one mentions anything about switching this sensor. Do you guys just install the new hose without it or am I the only one having problems removing it? I even took it to a shop who could not break the sensor lose. Any suggestions?

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

you need the sensor. i had the same problem and couldn't break mine off the old hose, but mangled the **** out of it in the process. then got frustrated and ordered a new sensor to put in

MaxSpeedSE

iTrader: (3)

Ok thank you for clarifying and your speedy response. I'll go ahead and place the order for the sensor.

redrock5432

see this post for some suggestions I had trouble in same area. used liquid wrench soak.

Turbonut

I used a cutting wheel to put a slit in the housing, then removed the sensor.

MaxSpeedSE

iTrader: (3)

Got the part in and everything works. I didn't even bother with the middle braket. I just ziptied it. Was done in under a hour! Thanks for everyone's help.

nyisles

Just wanted to post and say thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences with this replacement. I recently had to replace my alternator and discovered in the process that my pressure hose had the dreaded leak, apparently right on schedule at 135,000 miles. Thanks to this thread, I was able to do the entire job in under two hours. I went with the Edelmann hose from Rockauto, as many here recommended, and it seems to be a well-made piece... hopefully it holds up.

Many have reported issues removing the pressure sensor and/or flare nut, but I soaked mine in Aerokroil beforehand and they both broke loose without much effort using vise grips and a 14mm flare nut wrench, respectively. If you've never used Aerokroil before, you should pick up a few cans... the stuff is liquid magic.

The hardest part for me was attaching the new hose to the pump, since the new hose is fairly stiff and doesn't fall naturally into place. Some said it was easier to leave the hose disconnected up top and attach the banjo bolt as the first step, but I found all that movement made the job harder. After that experiment failed, I loosely attached the hose to the strut tower and was then able to line the banjo bolt connection up properly... hand-threaded the bolt as recommended to avoid cross-threading, then torqued to 45 ft-lb. I imagine this part would've been easier in the warmer months, but naturally I had an icy wind numbing my hands the entire time.

Removing the bolt on the center bracket was also a PITA, as expected, but it probably would've been easier if my swivel joints weren't junk - they're simply too loose to hold a position, so I could not get them lined up. Ultimately, I disconnected the big vacuum hose on the back of the intake and this gave me a few inches to swing my regular 3/8" ratchet. Good thing that bolt is so short, otherwise it would have taken an hour just to get it out. Didn't bother reinstalling, just ziptied the new hose to the bracket and called it a day.

Lastly, I do not have any noticeable whining from the PS pump using the Edelmann hose, but I also have an exhaust leak right now so maybe I just can't hear it Honestly it did whine at first since I apparently didn't dead-bleed well enough; after starting up and live-bleeding, the PS reservoir dropped to near empty and was foaming a bit. I topped it off, did another live-bleed, and the whining went away.

fordamatic

I got the hose replaced but not without incident. The bracket where the sensor and hose connects to the engine mount seemed loose so I racheted the bolts a bit more and one bolt broke in the engine mount. It's seems mostly secure with the one bolt still attached but I'm wondering 1) how do I get that sheered bolt out? or 2) do you think it's fine to just have the one bolt attached?

If anyone knows the torque settings for those top 10mm bolts that would be fantastic info to know in hindsight.

mclasser

My hose has been a damp for a few months now. Leak's still small enough that there's no change in the reservoir level but I'd rather address it now than be stranded somewhere on the side of the road. I'm usually all for DIY repairs but this job seems like a real PITA and I just don't have the patience for it. So I'm just going to buy an Edelmann hose and have my mechanic deal with it.

jmotter

Thanks for the thorough write up. I am replacing the leaky hose and belts while I'm in there. I got a Edelman/Gates from Amazon and sent it back, missing washers and quality looked iffy. Ordered one on Ebay that looked a lot more like the OEM. I'll post some pics later. It says SUNGSONG on the hose. I'll let you know how it goes. About $65 delivered. $200 dealer is crazy.

mikel-

Thanks for all the advises guys. I just replaced my HP steering hose on my 02 Maxima. The hardest part was the mounting bracket in the middle of the hose. The one that attaches to the back of the engine block. I doubt that bracket is really needed, but anyway. I spent 40 min trying to screw that short bolt in. Almost gave up

I used original OEM hose 49720-5Y700 ($180 + shipping). By the way, it came with new sensor attached and I did not have to remove one from the old hose.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Too late now, but squeeze it with long needle nose pliers and longer bolts makes it a cinch.

mikel-

Thanks. In the end I used locking/clamping pliers with somewhat narrow nose. They were not narrow enough and it was hard getting them on the bracket without interfering with the bolt head. I also cut off a piece of the rubber that goes around the hose under the bracket.

Will

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like something I would do, use a zip tie.

What is live bleed? You just turn the steering wheel both sides w the reservoir cap open until no more whining?

mclasser

^"Live bleeding" is turning the wheel lock-to-lock with the engine running. "Dead" is with the engine off.

02nismaxlegnd94

iTrader: (6)

Hmmm I did my PS pressure hose R/R in about an hour start to finish, hardest thing was lining up the babjo bolt with both washers . I was surprised because of all the comments I came about concerning this replacement.

02nismaxlegnd94

iTrader: (6)

Almost forgot that top bracket was a pain I ended up using a longer screw to connect it to the hold bracket with a nut on the other side.

sjt07

Dimensions for the copper crush washers?

redrock5432

don't know dimensions but 2 ideas:

1. If auto parts store has HP hose in stock, check in box for size of washers.
2. reuse existing washers. the copper washers are usually reusable since the deformation of the washer is intended to be just enough to seal, unless the joint was over tightened

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

If the new hose doesn't come with washers, then that thing must be a super el cheapo.

maxiiiboy

Well, how did the installation go, and how is the SUNGSONG hose holding up?

sjt07

It did come with washers, but I wasn't sure if it was going to or not. I bought a supposedly OEM one from rockauto for I think $75-ish, but it appears to be a single piece. I was not impressed with the heat shielding on the lower half.



Top: Original high pressure power steering hose out of my '01 Maxima. I mangled the heat shielding a bit - it was zip-tied near the middle connector and ran the full length of the lower portion of the hose. Pressure sensor was removed and installed on new HP PS hose (bottom) with crummy heat shielding (and new bracket, but I used the old bracket). I added the zip tie.

Having little tiny girl hands and a 10mm socket with extension made getting the bracket between the firewall and the engine on and off fairly easy - I can actually get both hands back there at the same time. The nut on the back side is attached - no need to hold it.

For the nut that connects the hose to the steel line on the top side, I used the 14mm flange nut wrench (distributes force over 5 sides instead of 2 like a box-end) because I'm paranoid about breaking things, crescent wrench and PB Blaster. For the sensor, I used a smaller/thinner crescent wrench, 17mm box end and PB Blaster.

On the install, I did the 24mm banjo bolt on the bottom first, and whoever suggested marking the bolt before you put it back in to make sure you line it up correctly - good tip!




Sitting where the wheel goes, looking up and toward the front of the vehicle, putting the new HP PS hose on. Torque is 37-50 ft-lb if I remember right.

I had my husband watch the reservoir while I turned the wheel. He said fluid level dropped about half an inch during dead bleed and another half an inch during live bleed. It took less than a quart of fluid. It sounds good so far, but I haven't driven it yet as I broke the screw holding on the plastic housing around the wheel well (my paranoia is not entirely unfounded), so the wheel is still off.

So... tentative success I guess! Thanks, everyone, for your help!

Superfly99

Hi all, new to the forum and after some advice. I need to replace the hph on my 2004 J31 Nissan Maxima TI (Australian model) and the cost over here is rediculous. Ive been quoted $650 at a dealer and as much as $500 at my local mechanic. Ive seen plenty cheaper on ebay coming out of the states but not sure if it will be compatible with my vehicle. Ive checked engine specs and it is the same engine as used in the same year maxima in the states and from what I can tell the hose is oriented in the same place. Does anyone on here know for sure? I'd rather not spend the money getting one if it ultimatley wont fit.
Thanks

cgilley

Superfly - sorry to hear about the hose. One thing that REALLY pisses me off about Nissan - I've had a 1989, 1997 and a 2002 (current), and I've had to replace the HP hose on each one of them. That means Nissan is still using the same **** for at least 13 years. Now I know why the cars depreciate so quickly.

Anyway, there was a thread somewhere on maxima.org about a guy who repaired his hose. Apparently this POS is a two piece unit and it just fails in the center. He took it down to a hydraulics hose repair place, and the fixed the problem for $30 or something (way less than the cost of a new hose). You might want to search a bit for this.

Note on the dealer/mechanic prices - see, they already know it's a PITA and charge accordingly. They will also refill and bleed your power steering (don't forget to do that).

Cg

happily driving my 02 six speed with all 6 cylinders now.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

*sigh* all PS hoses will fail. Are we forgetting how old these cars are? I changed one on an Acura (known "problem" on hondas too ). That was a 4 hr job and I had to cut corners b/c the design is so terrible.

Our hoses are easy to change. Once you know how the bracket works, it's a 20 min job.

They know it's easy, most shops are scam artists. I know a dummy that paid 185 dollars to replace a dead coil pack on a front cylinder of a honda. Another one went bad 2 weeks later and it took me 30 secs with a 35 dollar part to fix. That's on the low end of overcharging. Try 700 dollars for el cheapo pads/rotors lol.

mclasser

This is sadly true. It took me years of getting ripped off by different shops to finally find the indy I have now. He has fair prices, knows my cars and most of all, is honest. Since 2 of my cars are old, he works with me to figure out ways to save money and categorize repairs based on urgency. Most shops just blindly recommend expensive repairs without considering the age of the car and cheaper workarounds.

I always laugh my *** off when I see shops advertising expensive brake jobs with resurfaced rotors. A lot of techs can't work a brake lathe properly and end up butchering the rotors. Resurfacing is obsolete this day and age where new rotors can be gotten for cheap. Yet shops act like they're doing you a grand favor by even touching your rotors

Donkeypunch

I went to the dealer to get my brakes done on a newer toyota they charged $6 for a cat of brake clean +$80 in labor JUST so they can spray the rear pads...

Think about that ****. $80 in labor so some monkey at the stealership sprays brake clean on your rear drums +$6 for the can they used.

That's not including labor for the front, I think it was $136 + $60 for pads.

Everything they even touch is added labor and they deliberately do a **** job to get you
to come back again.