Imax00

I finally took the car to the dealer and they seemed to replace the MAF sensor because the car runs alot better now. The only thing is i think they didnt replace the whole assembly because theres still alot of dust on it, What it looks like they replaced was the little piece with the plug. Did i get screwed or is this fine? I just wanted to know because i think the car should accelerate slightly faster than it is now. Any im still happy its running alot better now than before.

instil

did you pay closer to $100, or $500. If you only paid around 100 for the part, you just paid for the sensor (little piece wit the plug). Thats the important part anyway....you dont need a whole new housing for that little sensor if yours is not broken or cracked

ColdSHO

iTrader: (25)

how does one reset once a new maf is put in, i just poped in my new 01 into my 00 a few mins ago

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

just leave the battery unplug and after a few hours... connect it and go for a drive. I just installed mine and will put it back tomorrrow before going to work...

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

I paid 83 for the whole assembly......

saxart

Ditto on that, just bought it today from Dave. (Well actually, I never spoke with "Dave", but one of his homies sold it to me for that price...)

instil

word,me too. But we have 2001's, so we have the $80 maf hookup (ie: MAF, without wire sensor element).
Imax00 has a 2000, so he has to buy the entire maf assembly for a 2k2+ (MAF housing,WITH wire sensor element) for like $400,$500 i forget how much off hand. OR.....They bought the less expensive part,and mixed and matched pieces from his current part,and a new one.
Thats the MAF story in a nutshell from what i understand from these 18 posts about it.

Imax00

well it was under warranty so i only had to pay a 50 dollar deductable. Maybe I shouldnt be complaining?...anyway only 1.5k more until warranty goes out the window

ColdSHO

iTrader: (25)

when i got my 01maf it came with instructions stating i have to have things repregramed with a code or soemthing. i dont have to do that, that would save me 80 bucks if so.

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

what's the star shaped tool called?

ChromeSE5

iTrader: (3)

torque bits? or tork bits... something like that i think.

SatinBlueMAX

Close. It is Torx

matman604

Just installed the Injen CAI - looks nice, didn't do a lot of good tho.
Step on the gas - sluggish as hell. Could be a faulty MAS..

Have the Stillen Y-pipe being installed tomorrow.

Called Dave B - great guy, spent lots of time with me, gave me some sound advice and I picked up the update MAF for my 2k for $83. Plus he ships with Fedex so us Canadians don't get gouged for customs & taxes (like UPS does).

Will let you know how it go'd. Thanks for the advise all.

matman604

Well, Y-Pipe is in, but I can't even touch the gas pedal and she bogs down. I barely creeped home... Waiting for a new MAF - what else could it be?

Chips788

Yeah my max has 78k on her and im putting an injen intake on her soon since i just got the heat shield/splash guard, so i should just buy a 2001 MAF sensor (for my 2000), put it on while putting on the intake. Then just disconnect the battery for a few hours and she should be good? Is that all I have to do?

thanks

alex18

Its amazing what a diffrence a new maf can do.

20carrington

I had the same symptoms as above and had the MAF diagnosed as the problem. The dealer charged me 599.95 Canadian for the part, plus the ECM reprogram (before I read this forum - duh for me)

Is that unreal? I'm taking it up with Nissan Canada, as they apparently set the price.

Has anyone else dealt with Nissan Canada?

20carrington

2K SE, MAF part# is 22680-2Y001

pruizgarcia

iTrader: (1)

That is the same part# for the 01 MAF which I installed on my 02 Max to replace the old piece of s__ one. It has made a noticeable difference. Should have done this a a long time ago...

Chips788

I just purchased a new MAF sensor, it was 108 with everything, and they said that the 2001 sensor is the same as the 2000 so who ever said the 2k1 sensor, and therfor its not stronger cuz its the same

dougiefresh101

I called my local Nissan dealer and was quoted AU$950 (approximately US$1250) for the MAF. Obviously this isn't going to happen, is Dave B a member of this site? I might have to look into getting one shipped from America, even with shipping costs it'd be cheaper.

SiCkMaX@aol.com

this is going to sound very newbish but here goes, what is a MAF?

dougiefresh101

MAF stands for "Mass Air Flow" and it's a meter which measures how much air is entering the engine, which your ECU then uses to determine how much fuel to put in.

Null2KSE

Hmm I do not seem to have the OP's symptoms per se, but I have a 2000 SE that gets really high RPMs when accellerating up from stop to 60kmph... RPMs will rise to nearly 5000, the gear will change and the car will lunge forward as well... My hypothesis is slipping transmission but could the MAF be a factor as well?

koostermax

yep, my maf finally blew...

called local nissan dealer and they quoted it me $540 US.

this is elk grove nissan of elk grove, california...(next to sacramento, ca)

† ErV †

after changing my coolant last night i think my 2nd maf took the dump

stutter at cruise, some weird power loss at 3-4k and the nasty power loss at 2k when OD is on; almost feels like it is trying to shift. idles perfect.



yes the CEL is on. i unplugged the battery and will go hook it up in a few and see if it is still there. then it is code pulling time if it persists.

but my first maf died at an instant too so i shouldn't be surprised about this one dieing in the driveway

nissan maf < lowest imaginable scum in the entire universe

BewstAdd1ct

LOL... thats the funniest **** ive ever heard.

Inspiron

http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_a33.html

ryeguyh

Hi thanks guys I saved a bundle after reading the forum. The other day my 2001 Maxima SE 20th Anniversay was stalling and could not rev. I did a tune up and spark plug a while back and it still didn't solve the knocking problems, mainly I guess from low octane, but I switched back to premium afterwards and still had probs.

The car would rev past 2000 rpm stutter and I had the dealer check it out in Markham Villiage Nissan. They found out the car was running lean and had a faulty or "dead" MAF and it would cost me CND $770 for parts and labour. The other problem I was also having was DRL was not working and only one headlight was working and it was $300-ish. Holy cow! A MAF for $600 bucks, so I see on the forum pointing out the cost of a MAF and Courtsey Nissan has it for $89.50 and $45 UPS Express, I am saving myself a lot of money for the same part (and number). Too bad they don't have the DRL unit, states don't have DRL.

So thanks so much guys, MAF for about $200 CND, and this is the whole unit replacement, oh and $85 CND for 1 hours labour installation. The whole thing would of cost me $1200 with the diagnostic fee but now it is about half!

Parker Woodruff

I have a question about replacing the MAF:

If I buy an Injen CAI or a FrankenCar WAI, will that replace the MAF, or will the factory one still be installed?

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

Did you not believe Josh and I? Intakes do not replace the MAF, they come with a MAF adapter for you to use the MAF with your intake.

Parker Woodruff

sorry man

ftlmax

I HAVE A QUESTION FOR ANYONE WHO HAS DONE THE 2001 MAF SWITCH TO THEIR 2002 MAX, FIRST WHAT ALL DO I NEED TO BUY IN ORDER TO DO THIS UPGRADE, AND SECOND AS SOMEONE ALREADY MENTIONED DO I JUST NEED TO RESET THE ECU AFTER I INSTALL IT, OR TAKE IT TO THE DEALER FOR ADJUSTMENTS, IN OTHER WORDS IS GETTING YOUR ECU REFLASHED THE SAME AS RESETING IT?

pruizgarcia

iTrader: (1)

You need this part number 22680-2Y001. Then you need to take the temp wire from your old MAF and install it on the new one. I soldered my in, but it clips right on, just make sure it fits nice and tight. I then reset the ECU. I haven't done the ECU flash thing yet, but everything seems fine. I will get it done when I can. Also, take your caps lock off since it means you are shouting...

Pedro

ftlmax

Hey wasup man thanx for the reply, your anwers were a big help, hey i have one last question do you absolutely have to get a reflash done? I mean cause I was just planning on doing what you did just reseting the ecu, the thing is I don't want it to affect my 1/4mile time or my high end torque if I don't get the reflash done, if you could hit me up and let me know what you know about this thanx bro

pruizgarcia

iTrader: (1)

From what I hear from others, they recommend the reflash/update. I will get it done eventually, but since my Max is running fine, I am not going to fix what is now broke.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

is this reflash/update done at the stealer? i know this is an old topic but i never researched it much because...it just hasn't happened to me UNTIL TODAY!!!! i wish my car pops a code already, but my MAF is DEFINITELY dead, as soon as I started my car today I could tell something was wrong with the wacky idle. then later when i was driving, and i tried passing someone and gassed it a little, my car couldn't decide whether to shift into 2nd or 1st, and I got really scared because I thought my tranny was dead, and then when the revvs were climbing, i got this huge hesitation at 4~4.5k. came home, checked my tranny fluid, it's actually a lot cleaner than i thought...so I'm pointing fingers at the MAF. i'm gonna see if a local stealer will be cool enough to warranty it, if not i guess i'll have to go the 01 route... sorry to take it OT but i still asked a question lol

aga1793

I got a P0153 error code on my maxima 2K recently. When I start the max in the morning, it begun to stutter for about a minute and then runs fine. Anyone know which parts I probably need to replace?

kvk2003max

I never had problems at startup, but i had the same problem when i tried to accelerate, the car would stutter a bit and then pick up speed, and i also felt a loss of power and i noticed the engine was idling rough, the engine noise was higher. I thought that i had MAF problems as well. I checked the Air Filter, MAF and the transmission oil and everything looked as if they were new. I just did a ECU reset (got the procedure from the stickies) and the difference is unbeleivable. The engine runs smoother, noise reduced and the shifting is buttery and the A/C is working great too. It has been over a month since i did this and no problems so far. I wish i had done this earlier.

My car is a 2003 Sheer silver GLE, auto transmission with 41000 miles on it and it feels almost like new after the reset.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

well...i know i never reset my ecu after i installed my intake, but i had no problems for several thousand miles. i'll reset my ecu and put my stock flex section in and see if it helps.. otherwise to the stealership i go