5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

For the last few weeks my car doesn't want to seem to start periodically..
75% of the time it starts when the vehicle is cold. I removed the air intake housing and hit the starter. After doing this a few times it finally cranked over. Figured the starter was bad. Spent the money and got a remanufactured oem starter. Dropped it in and there is still no start/no crank. Thinking maybe it was bad I tapped on it a few times... Still nothing. I put the old starter back in and that one won't crank over either...Turns out that the old starter was good, just happened to work intermittently right after tapping on it...I put the new starter back in and of course still no crank.... Yes my ground bolts and connectors are tight.. I'm wondering if it isn't a security or relay issue??

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

oh yea, I also have a remote start. When I press the button on the remote start the lights blink and my key fob shows a picture of my car with the exhaust coming out meaning the remote start thinks it started the car.

dafertilizer

iTrader: (8)

I am having the same problem with mine, the one day I was getting gas, and it just wouldnt start, so I hit the starter with my lug wrench and it started. so I drove it home and cleaned up the battery terminals really well. (once before it wouldnt start and I thought the battery was dead, but it ended up being just a bad connection from corrosion on the positive terminal)

I have been considering changing the positive terminal to a gold one that makes full contact with the battery terminal (not sure why ours has the middle cut out)

So anyway the following day it sounded really weak starting, so I couldnt take any chances with how much I drive, and went to NAPA and bought a new starter. I put it in, and I will say the car has not just completely not started, But I also have a remote start, and B4 it would have to start twice every once in awhile because the first time failed, I figured the new starter would cure this.... Nope

I also have a grounding kit (home depot) So Im thinking it is either the positive terminal or just some faulty short in the wiring of the remote start ( was in the car when I bought it, so I have no idea who installed it)

so now I have a new starter in my car that I probably didnt need

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

I don't think It's a ground or main power issue. I have source voltage at the starter (Which is normal and has voltage at all times.) I also have source voltage drop between my ground bolts and battery +.)\
So it looks like the blk wire with a white stripe is suppossed to provide source voltage while cranking? Odd, the coloring to me would indicate it to be a ground wire...BTW I don't have source voltage there. I'm wondering if I need to run a jumper between the black wire and battery positive to see if the starter cranks...

a_prince1

iTrader: (3)

what kind of transmission do you have? Manual or Auto?

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Auto

10 char

a_prince1

iTrader: (3)

when you try to start your car . . . is it always in Park? Try moving it into Neutral.
The Park solenoid may be giving out on you.

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Tried that. I'm going to check the relays tomorrow to see if they are even clicking and check voltage drop to that blk/white wire while cranking.

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

So, I jumpered the black/white wire to power and the car started. Going to pick it up in a little bit. It's gotta be something in the ignition.

ANYONE know if the immobolizer cuts off fuel/spark or just doesn't allow the ignition to crank?
If the security acted up would the pump still run and would the coils still fire the plugs, just not allow the starter to crank?