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Cleaning Throttle Body On 5.5 gen (2002-2003 only) - Yes or No
I have tried to find information on this both in the FAQ/How-To threads but could not find it. The search either results in too many irrelevant results or non-specific info. Anyways, I apologize if I missed the definitive thread on this subject and if this is a repost. :-)
What is the general consensus regarding cleaning the throttle body on 5.5 gen (2002-2003) Maxima - is it OK to clean it or is it not recommended?
What I found is different opinions here and there but nothing that most .org members agreed on. Some say it's OK and they had no ill effects, some say they could not get their idle to normal until they spent a few hundred $$ on new parts, etc.
If you have cleaned your throttle body and have no ill effects I would appreciate it if you could briefly describe how you did it so we know how to safely do it.
If you have cleaned your throttle body and messed your car up please also briefly describe how you did it so we know how not to do it.
(Why did they start using the drive-by-wire; what does that improve? I am sure there are many other aspects of automotive technology that actually need improvement.)
I've been cleaning throttle bodies on every type of car imaginable, including maximas. The reason the car would not idle properly would be due to pieces of carbon flaking off and getting stuck in the idle air control solenoid and keeping it from doing its job.
If you want to clean it, take the thing off, go buy a bottle of brake clean or throttle body cleaner, and spray the crap out of it, trying not to get the outside plastic parts too coated (it eats plastic). After that is done get some compressed air to spray through it. If you don't have compressed air, go buy a cheap compressor, you'll need it if you want to do little jobs like this in the garage. I like to use an old toothbrush.
I've been cleaning throttle bodies on every type of car imaginable, including maximas. ...
I have been doing the same on all my cars too, but from what I understand the 2002 and up Maximas have a different throttle body with no throttle cable but 4(?) sensors instead and if you are not careful you can screw things up. That is why I said both in the title and the post itself - pertains to 5.5 gen only.
Good thread. I was contemplating the same thing because mine is very dirty, but as you mentioned our throttle bodies are not operated by cable, they are electronic, and it's very easy to screw things up. I'm afraid to try anything, but if I hear a lot of positive advice, I'll go ahead and try.
__________________ LTB, RSB, FSTB, H-techs and Illuminas, 6.5 gen wheels, 6th gen front brakes
PB: 14.338 @ 98.27 with a 2.300 60' stock.
I've been cleaning throttle bodies on every type of car imaginable, including maximas. The reason the car would not idle properly would be due to pieces of carbon flaking off and getting stuck in the idle air control solenoid and keeping it from doing its job.
The thread topic is specifically about 2002-2003 maximas which don't have an idle air control valve. The idle is controlled by the throttle body itself, which is controlled electronically by the ECM.
Edit: I guess the others beat me to it...
I would imagine the idle air volume learning procedure would need to be performed after cleaning it.
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
I've been cleaning throttle bodies on every type of car imaginable, including maximas. The reason the car would not idle properly would be due to pieces of carbon flaking off and getting stuck in the idle air control solenoid and keeping it from doing its job.
If you want to clean it, take the thing off, go buy a bottle of brake clean or throttle body cleaner, and spray the crap out of it, trying not to get the outside plastic parts too coated (it eats plastic). After that is done get some compressed air to spray through it. If you don't have compressed air, go buy a cheap compressor, you'll need it if you want to do little jobs like this in the garage. I like to use an old toothbrush.
Not true on the 5.5 gens. Not true at all. If you clean the throttle body on a 5.5 gen with any chemicals, you will get a code 0507 and need to go to Nissan and have them connect CONSULT II up to have the ECU relearn IAV settings.
Not true on the 5.5 gens. Not true at all. If you clean the throttle body on a 5.5 gen with any chemicals, you will get a code 0507 and need to go to Nissan and have them connect CONSULT II up to have the ECU relearn IACV settings.
I believe some org members have been lucky and followed a IACV relearn procedure, but slim chance it works for the higher perecentage of individuals.
Only way to safely clean 5.5 gen throttle bodies is to use a lint free cloth and wipe it out. Or just don't touch it.
There is no IACV relearn, since there is no IACV. I assume you're referring to the idle air volume relearn. How many people has it NOT worked for using the non-consult II procedure?
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
Bad advice. Highly not recommended! I've personally experienced the 0507 code and had to pay dealer $68 (normally $100+) to have CONSULT II set ECU to relearn. Luckily dealer gave me a discount because I was just in there a few weeks back to have the stuttering idle fixed with a ECU reflash.
Not true on the 5.5 gens. Not true at all. If you clean the throttle body on a 5.5 gen with any chemicals, you will get a code 0507 and need to go to Nissan and have them connect CONSULT II up to have the ECU relearn IACV settings.
You dont' NEED a Consult II.
I've done a few things to my APPS & TPS sensors and they get mad at me for a short time, but then come back to me after an ECU reset and IAVL.
Bad advice. Highly not recommended! I've personally experienced the 0507 code and had to pay dealer $68 (normally $100+) to have CONSULT II set ECU to relearn. Luckily dealer gave me a discount because I was just in there a few weeks back to have the stuttering idle fixed with a ECU reflash.
Did you even ATTEMPT to do it yourself?
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
There is no IACV relearn, since there is no IACV. I assume you're referring to the idle air volume relearn.
edited - thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by nismology
How many people has it NOT worked for using the non-consult II procedure?
Not sure, but when I did a search, it appeared more dealer visits had to occur because no one could get the non-CONSULT procedure to work. That was why I went to dealer. After trying myself 3 times, I gave up.
I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima Polished Titanium, build date 10/02.
I have had all the fun codes. 0507, 2122, 2138, 1705. Don't ask..
I can do the ECU reset, and IAVL in minutes. It's very easy, just get the hang of it. I call it the pedal dance.
Ah, gotcha. Wonder why I couldnt get it to take. I am able to reset the ECU within approx. 1-2 mins once the car warms up, but could not get the procedure to take for the IAVL.
I've dealt with a few minor codes and they were easy. Clean and retighten gas cap, dual O2 sim, etc., but this one got me.
I'd imagine that if you disconnect the negative battery terminal, then take all the sensors off ( or unplug and then take off after throttle body is off, whichever is easier ) , physically take the throttle body off the car clean with toothbrush and carb/throttle body cleaner, dry with lint free cloth and put back on then there could be no problem as long as u thoroughly dryed.
If the car has no power when sensors unplugged and then put everything back and then reconnect battery I can't imagine how the ecu would even knoe anything happened.
I use carb cleaner and a rag wheb I do it I take the tb off the car so I can get in there good and get it done. I clean it every oil chabge and everytime I do it I notice better throttle response.
I use carb cleaner and a rag wheb I do it I take the tb off the car so I can get in there good and get it done. I clean it every oil chabge and everytime I do it I notice better throttle response.
I'd imagine that if you disconnect the negative battery terminal, then take all the sensors off ( or unplug and then take off after throttle body is off, whichever is easier ) , physically take the throttle body off the car clean with toothbrush and carb/throttle body cleaner, dry with lint free cloth and put back on then there could be no problem as long as u thoroughly dryed.
If the car has no power when sensors unplugged and then put everything back and then reconnect battery I can't imagine how the ecu would even knoe anything happened.
Just my 2 cents, I haven't done yet.
If you do that you will DEFINITELY have to perform the idle air volume learning procedure.
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Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
First let me start by saying that I do have a 2003...
I cleaned my TB about a year ago, before I knew it was an E-throttle... Without taking the TB off of the car I manually moved the butterfly valve back and forth while spraying the TB cleaner into it. I used a rag to catch the runoff and rub the butterfly valve. I had a CEL on then did the ECU reset procedure. After that the CEL went away. I may have had to do the idle air volume learning procedure. I think I was one of the lucky ones b/c others who have tried cleaning their TBs in a similar fashion have had to get thiers replaced.
...then take all the sensors off ( or unplug and then take off after throttle body is off, whichever is easier )...
I would not recommend this to anyone unless it's absolutely unavoidable. I had to take the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) off on my '95 GXE once and that thing was a biatch to adjust after putting it back on. I can't imagine what it would take to get the sensor(s) adjusted to specs on the 5.5 gen. Maybe it's not even doable without the Consult tool...
meh, I'll try it when I get the chance. I just don't want to mess anything up because I have no spare time to let my car sit with the battery unplugged, or take it to the dealer, etc. so I just wanna be cautious...
__________________ LTB, RSB, FSTB, H-techs and Illuminas, 6.5 gen wheels, 6th gen front brakes
PB: 14.338 @ 98.27 with a 2.300 60' stock.
I would not recommend this to anyone unless it's absolutely unavoidable. I had to take the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) off on my '95 GXE once and that thing was a biatch to adjust after putting it back on. I can't imagine what it would take to get the sensor(s) adjusted to specs on the 5.5 gen. Maybe it's not even doable without the Consult tool...
They are different systems and your advice has nothing to back it so why not try and keep th facts straight here.
The 5.5 adjusts electronically on it's own, so unlike the A32, it's easier. I used to adjust my idle on my A32 via ECU screw.
I don't have a Consult and I can adjust my idle (+/- 250) on my 5.5g.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
i cleaned my throttle body about 2 days ago on my 2k3. i was doing an oil change and decided to clean the TB. It was filthy in there...i spent a good while on it cleaning it..opening and closing the valve with my finger and spraying crc tb cleaner inside and wiping clean. now today my ses light came on and i had the code checked and it was code p0507. So i followed the steps to reset the ecu and did the iavl and the ses light is gone. so i recommend cleaning the tb and just reset the ecu.
They are different systems and your advice has nothing to back it so why not try and keep th facts straight here.
The 5.5 adjusts electronically on it's own, so unlike the A32, it's easier. I used to adjust my idle on my A32 via ECU screw.
I don't have a Consult and I can adjust my idle (+/- 250) on my 5.5g.
If you wanna talk facts let's do it. You have your IACV and TPS mixed up. IACV controls the idle (allows a certain amount of air to pass through/by the throttle body even with the throttle plate closed so your engine does not die when you are not applying any throttle); TPS, on the other hand, senses the position of the throttle plate and sends the signal to the ECU so it can regulate A/F mixture ratio (also sends signal to the TCU to help determine shift points in AT).
To the best of my knowledge the 5.5 gen does not have a mechanical IACV but electronic (therefore no screw to adjust idle).
Now we all (should) know that electronic components do not react well to most liquids (throttle body cleaner) and therein lies my concern that some of those sensors may be screwed up by introducing liquids to their environment.
Capisce?
If you wanna talk facts let's do it. You have your IACV and TPS mixed up. IACV controls the idle (allows a certain amount of air to pass through/by the throttle body even with the throttle plate closed so your engine does not die when you are not applying any throttle); TPS, on the other hand, senses the position of the throttle plate and sends the signal to the ECU so it can regulate A/F mixture ratio (also sends signal to the TCU to help determine shift points in AT).
To the best of my knowledge the 5.5 gen does not have a mechanical IACV but electronic (therefore no screw to adjust idle).
Preaching to the choir so far...
Quote:
Now we all (should) know that electronic components do not react well to most liquids (throttle body cleaner) and therein lies my concern that some of those sensors may be screwed up by introducing liquids to their environment.
Capisce?
I don't see how spraying the throttle plate would damage the throttle control motor...
__________________
Tuning a car isn't a crime, but spelling it "tunning" ought to be. - ....
I just cleaned mine 2 weeks ago, and since then have had the SES light on (P0507). I dont exactly know what doest it but this is how i cleaned mine. I manually opened the valve sprayed TB cleaner in and wiped it off, waited like 30 min and as soon as i turned the car on the SES came on. Also when u get that code it effects your transmision and everytime u slow down the car surges. I tried IAVL couple of times but couldnt get rid of the code. I know everybody who used consult II could get rid of the code and everything went back to normal, so if u have one or can get hold of one go ahead and clean it cuase mine was nasty. Goodluck.
I also cleaned my throttle body and got the p0507 code with the surging problem. Tried the idle volume air relearn procedure and it worked but still had the transmission surging problem. Took the car to the dealer and they replaced the throttle body under warranty but still have the surging problem. Don't know what to do about the surging problem now.
Throttle control motor. (Small servo motor that controls the opening and closing of the throttle plate)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiggy
Now we all (should) know that electronic components do not react well to most liquids (throttle body cleaner) and therein lies my concern that some of those sensors may be screwed up by introducing liquids to their environment.
Apparently it's not the chemical that causes bad things.
I and many other members have done a pre' cleaning, and it didn't do anything as far as codes/idle goes. Pre cleaning = having someone apply throttle while I sprayed TB cleaner in the TB while it was still connected to the car.
It seems as if manually moving the throttle plate has some affect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiggy
TPS, on the other hand, senses the position of the throttle plate and sends the signal to the ECU so it can regulate A/F mixture ratio (also sends signal to the TCU to help determine shift points in AT).
On the 5.5g, it's APPS & RPM that sends the signal to the TCM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiggy
Anyways, has anyone else had any experience, good or bad, with cleaning the throttle body on 2002 and up Maximas?
I cleaned my TB, got the code, did the reset and IAVL = FTW.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiggy
Capisce?
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
If you leave the key turned to the run position, you can move the throttle plate. I had my Dad's mechanic clean mine because it was stalling occasionally after a hot restart (or at the very least, the rpms would drop way down before kicking back up) and it was only idling at 600 rpms. What he did was turn the key on to the run position, then sprayed the throttle body, plate etc down and then wiped everything out. Took about 15 seconds to start after cleaning, but no SES light, no more hot start stalls and the idle is about 725 rpm or so.
I talked to the mechanic about the risks of cleaning a DBW throttle body and he says the problems arise when you move the thottle plate with no power going to it. With the key turned to the run position, you can move the throttle plate without messing anything up.
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2002 Maxima SE, NWP block plate, GAB, K&N panel filter, Vibrant FSTB, grounding kit.
If you leave the key turned to the run position, you can move the throttle plate. I had my Dad's mechanic clean mine because it was stalling occasionally after a hot restart (or at the very least, the rpms would drop way down before kicking back up) and it was only idling at 600 rpms. What he did was turn the key on to the run position, then sprayed the throttle body, plate etc down and then wiped everything out. Took about 15 seconds to start after cleaning, but no SES light, no more hot start stalls and the idle is about 725 rpm or so.
I talked to the mechanic about the risks of cleaning a DBW throttle body and he says the problems arise when you move the thottle plate with no power going to it. With the key turned to the run position, you can move the throttle plate without messing anything up.
yup he is exactly right. I did the same thing with a friend of mine to clean the throttle body and no SES and my car ran 10xs better.
If you leave the key turned to the run position, you can move the throttle plate. I had my Dad's mechanic clean mine because it was stalling occasionally after a hot restart (or at the very least, the rpms would drop way down before kicking back up) and it was only idling at 600 rpms. What he did was turn the key on to the run position, then sprayed the throttle body, plate etc down and then wiped everything out. Took about 15 seconds to start after cleaning, but no SES light, no more hot start stalls and the idle is about 725 rpm or so.
I talked to the mechanic about the risks of cleaning a DBW throttle body and he says the problems arise when you move the thottle plate with no power going to it. With the key turned to the run position, you can move the throttle plate without messing anything up.
When you say throttle plate do you mean the butterfly inside? I was actually going to clean mine this weekend after you posting about you having yours cleaned in a different thread. I've seen the post about removing the TB from the car, cleaning it and putting it back on. It sounded likes yours wasn't removed though so I was going to try the same. I have a low idle after the car is fully warmed up and get a little bit of a stumble at idle as well. My gas mileage is great, about 28 so it's efficient but that low idle and stumble irritates me.
After reading this and hearing what Scottwax's experience was with what the mechanic said it sounds like that is the key. I'm curious if the people that cleaned their TB and had trouble afterward touched the "throttle plate" and moved it
When you say throttle plate do you mean the butterfly inside? I was actually going to clean mine this weekend after you posting about you having yours cleaned in a different thread. I've seen the post about removing the TB from the car, cleaning it and putting it back on. It sounded likes yours wasn't removed though so I was going to try the same. I have a low idle after the car is fully warmed up and get a little bit of a stumble at idle as well. My gas mileage is great, about 28 so it's efficient but that low idle and stumble irritates me.
Yes, the butterfly valve. I was charged $42 so the TB was definitely not removed. Remember, the key has to be in the "run" position (where the key is when the car is started) to be able to move the throttle plate.
Unplug the MAF connector
Remove an intake/air cleaner assembly from the TB
Turn ignition switch "on" (don't start the engine)
Put transmission on any gear (6 MT)
Floor the accelerator and secure it somehow at this position (I usually push it with a long wooden stick and hang on to a metallic frame of the bottom of the driver seat)
Now you get the throttle fully open and can start cleaning TB and butterfly valve.
Use dedicated TB cleaner (AutoZone ~$3). Spray, let it soak, wipe with a soft cotton rag. Don't use a paper as its' tiny abrasive particles can damage the special coating inside of TB. Do it several times till it's clean.
Use toothbrush to reach dip areas
Don't apply any significant force to the butterfly valve to avoid damaging the servo motor (important!)
When all done you may get some MAF related code, just erase it. Also, you'll get higher idle due to the better air flow (around 700 - 750 RPM). You can live with it or perform an idle relearn procedure. However, driving in this condition I noticed, the pinging that my car usually emits is completely gone. It's back after reseting an idle
. Give it a whirl. 
I actually managed to change my plugs & IM w/o d/c the TB. 
It was a biitch.
Linear Mode
