5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
My Brembo blanks went bad according to my mechanic and with all the excessive squeaking... I have just recently replaced them with the EBC slotted and dippled rotors with OEM pads. The problem I'm having is that when I drive, I can hear some sort of hissing/ticking sound at the wheels and the speed of the hiss/tick varies to the speed of the car. It gets more noticable when I drive next to a curb or a wall. This is when I'm driving (not braking)...and when I brake the noise goes away. Is this normal for slotted/dippled rotors?
Take of your rims and check out if he installed the pads correctly because he could of forgotten to reinstall that litte metal part back into the pads. Also where is the noise comeing from? How many miles you got on the car? Could be bearing but i'd do the first part before getting new bearings or axles.
The noise came from the wheel area...and the car has 59k on the ODO. I was there during the brake installation and he did not take away any metal piece anywhere. My mechanic told me that the noise is normal.
__________________
Currently running:
GAB / Greddy Evo / Blehm's H-grounds / Tein H-tech / Tokico HP / Progress RSB / Blehm's stage2 LTB / ES bushings / FSTB / SSR-Competition / BFGoodrich G 255/40/18 / EBC A34 rotors/ Wilwood 4-pot BBK / Hawk HPS / Custom Interior / Polarg bulbs / X-tec 7000k / PIAA Extreme Fog / CM Indiglo Sills / CM Chrome Gauge Rings / HP38 tint / Mobil 1 Sythetic / 17 btdc / Stillen Classic F&R Lips / Eibach Spacers
That sucks Jay. I'm still on my OEM rotors and I have the Raybestos Quietstop pads. No problems at all.
I'm glad I saw your post because I've been contemplating getting the Raybestos Quiet Stop pads. How long have you had them? My main concern is how long will they last. Do ceramic pads usually last as long traditional pads?
Raybestos also has NS pads (Noise Solution) and it's site says they are specifially for import vehicles. They are not ceramic though, they're a semi-metallic.
I'm glad I saw your post because I've been contemplating getting the Raybestos Quiet Stop pads. How long have you had them? My main concern is how long will they last. Do ceramic pads usually last as long traditional pads?
Raybestos also has NS pads (Noise Solution) and it's site says they are specifially for import vehicles. They are not ceramic though, they're a semi-metallic.
I liked the fact that there was NO dust. However stopping was not very good..
What is supposedly the major difference between ceramic & non-ceramic pads...excluding the obvious? For example, whats the difference between the Hawk HPS & Ceramic? Yes, I've read all over Hawk's site, but thats all just marketing. Do the ceramic pads inherently have less stopping power?
I've had brembo blanks/hawk hps for 3 months now -- good brakes but I do not feel like they had the same bite the oem brakes had when they were new. It's just the pedal feel. I did change out the brake fluid as well.
I am considering getting pbr axxis ultimate pads(since I can get a good deal on them). Has anyone had any experience with them?
i am also looking into the axxis ultimates also, anybody install them as of yet? but what is the make up of the ceramic brakes? materials more or less? I have ran both slotted cross-drilled brembos on my last max 3rd gen. no problems at all no squeeling minimal dust also ran g stop ss brake hoses. had to comment on a earlier post for me just driving car has everyday, the set up has save my a_ _ countless times. no cracks or breaks in the rotors either. Had the set uo for about 2yrs and some months. also just using full-organic pads from autozone. yea i know, but hey for normal driving it worked for me no regrets. Bottom line though this time around want a better performing pad still planning on running same brembo rotors zinc coated this time
Mods for the 2k Se max
Front-Strut tower brace
Steel braided Goodridge G-Stop brakehoses
Steel Braided Clutch Hose
Aluminized Mandrel bent y-pipe
Slotted-Cross Drilled Rotors
Black tint Halo Headlight Lenses
Black tint Foglight Lenses
10K Hid Headlight
10K Hid Foglight
Cleared out Front and Rear bumber lenses
Polarg Blue Bulbs for exterior lights
UpComing Mods
RSB
89 Max
mods: Slotted-Cross Drilled Brembo Rotors, Front-Strut tower brace,
Steel braided Goodridge G-Stop brakehoses, Pacestter Short throw shifter
Aluminized Mandrel bent y-pipe
TIG Welded By Warpspeed
Rear Sway Bar by Suspension
Techniques
Are all four 5th gen maxima calipers only one piston?
yeah... i have a 2001 max which i just changed the brakes on, and theres only one piston in each caliper... i doubt if the 5.5 gens are any different, but i don't know for sure
now as far as the squeaking.. my hawk brake pads sqeak sometimes just before i come to a complete stop.. somebody mentioned that i may not have bed them in properly because i came to a complete stop during my runs... the box didn't say not to! lol.. but can i do a second bed in to remedy the squeaking problem?
because its tuesday and i think people need to read what irish posted about brakes cause its good info and i found to be useful today with making my decision
__________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Comp G
|3.5" Intake Bpi/R2C|Ram Air|3.4" Pulley|180* T-stat|Headers|Corvette Brakes|SSC Lowering|KYB|LEDs everywhere|GXP parts|SE Parts|
Want a Plug and Play Harness for your Emanage Ult/Blue? CLICK HERE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Thank you Dave. I love you Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
...so i had to get towed out of a ditch last night...
- Most rotors do not "warp." Most rotors get uneven pad material transfer/buildup due to using crappy OEM or cheapo pads. Use a good quality pad and you will drastically reduce the chances of this happening.
- To avoid "actual" rotor warping, make sure to:
1. bed pads properly
2. seat rotor on hub properly
3. torque lug nuts to spec - NO IMPACT GUNS
How do I make sure that the rotor gets seated correctly? I alsor read to lightly apply grease to hub if rust and rotor comes off hard...I have not done brakes before but feel confident I can. I work as slow as molasses and quite methodical so am confidendt but need to learn and am looking for a bit of input on this. I also would like to change the fluid and am researching that as well, so any links/help would be appreciated. My frt caliper pins I greased last fall seem great...thanks to help on this site!!
What kind of grease did you use on the caliper slide pin? Can I use regular old plain grease?
One of the rubber dust boot on the caliper slide pin had a cut and I had to get a new one.
Thanks!
NO! according to what I've learned...will heat up and break down and not protect and then caliper will seize up...some say keep the pins and piston lubed and should never have to buy new calipers.
I used "Permatex Ultra disc brake caliper lube" - white bottle w/ green label and the grease is green in color. I think some use the red bottle grease since it goes to a higher temp, I think, but this was pricey and higher end quality from what others have said and so I bought it - and the store did not have the red bottle stuff. The parts guy wanted to sell me a little sample packet which prob would been enough but I want to be able to have it around and not mess w/ buying it again and got the bottle. It doesn't take much grease on the pins, but sure is nice to have it around. I gotta do the rear pins, too but hoping to do them this summer w/ my brakes after I get help from this site.
If you're talking about the tool for rear pistons, I don't have one yet but heard Sears, Autozone, etc all have it for like $8-$10 and heard it is well worth the price. I need one too so I can do my rears that haven't been done yet.
If you're talking about the tool for rear pistons, I don't have one yet but heard Sears, Autozone, etc all have it for like $8-$10 and heard it is well worth the price. I need one too so I can do my rears that haven't been done yet.
Thanks i will check it out, lucky my main mechanic let me borrow his time being for the job.
- Most rotors do not "warp." Most rotors get uneven pad material transfer/buildup due to using crappy OEM or cheapo pads. Use a good quality pad and you will drastically reduce the chances of this happening.
- To avoid "actual" rotor warping, make sure to:
1. bed pads properly
2. seat rotor on hub properly
3. torque lug nuts to spec - NO IMPACT GUNS
How do I make sure that the rotor gets seated correctly? I alsor read to lightly apply grease to hub if rust and rotor comes off hard...I have not done brakes before but feel confident I can. I work as slow as molasses and quite methodical so am confidendt but need to learn and am looking for a bit of input on this. I also would like to change the fluid and am researching that as well, so any links/help would be appreciated. My frt caliper pins I greased last fall seem great...thanks to help on this site!!
It's metal to metal, the rotor will seat just fine. I have seen cases where I had to do a little grinding to get clean metal but this was never on a newer Max. I wouldn't worry about it.
__________________
03 SE/TE 6M w/HLSD: 350Z wheels, Progress RSB, FSTB, ES bushings, STS, MR CB, 18% tint, 6K headlights and fogs
yeah, as time went on the squeaking with my hawk pads got worse.. i put them on a couiple months ago, and now once the brakes heat up, they squeak alot with moderate pressure applied to the brake pedal.. when i bed them in initially, i follwed the instructions on the box, except that i came to a complete stop when doing it bercause that was not mentioned on the box.. so i re-bed them using 8-10 hard stops from 60-0 until the brakes started to fade.. didnt work.. i tried the anti-squeak gunk that u put on the back on the pads.. that didnt work at all.. i tried the grease that you put between the edge of the brake pads and the retainer clips.. that only worked for less than 100 miles.. i dont know what the hell to do.. im running brembo blanks and hawk hps.. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
Sorry man, can't offer help. Running OEM rotors and pads.
I know they 'warp' (or more accurately, transfer pad material to the rotor face resulting in shimmy braking) easily, but they are super quite!
I've accepted the fact that I have to resurface them every 30K or so (fronts only, rears are OK). I'm also careful to not stomp hard on the brake when at a stop light.
Do you still have the original rotors/pads?
FWIW, I made sure to lube the slide pins with SILICON grease when I changed the pads. Permatex makes a good one at Pep Boys. Stay away from petroleum based grease as they will make the boot pins 'bloat' when the rubber absorbs the grease.
no, i transhed the original rotors and pads.. they were almost done anyway.. i got a carwash the day after i did it.. so maybe that washed some of the grease off.. i'll try it again and not get my car washed for a while, but i'm skeptical... -sigh-
They don't? here is how you can test that.... a) do a few consequent 60-0 stops b) go to a car wash right away and spray your hot rotor with cold water... c) test drive... see any difference?
Would Brembo Blanks and hawk hps be a good set up for daily driving?
Best set-up. Go for it. Make sure to bed the brakes properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by L.M.L.
They don't? here is how you can test that.... a) do a few consequent 60-0 stops b) go to a car wash right away and spray your hot rotor with cold water... c) test drive... see any difference?
You should read the rest of the post(s). Why exactly would you perform such dumb tricks? To prove a point that rotors do warp?
no, i transhed the original rotors and pads.. they were almost done anyway.. i got a carwash the day after i did it.. so maybe that washed some of the grease off.. i'll try it again and not get my car washed for a while, but i'm skeptical... -sigh-
You were supposed to thoroughly clean the rotors before installing them (to get all that oil off). I use Axxiss MM pads and RTP slotted rotors; never had a problem with noise/squeaking at all.
You were supposed to thoroughly clean the rotors before installing them (to get all that oil off). I use Axxiss MM pads and RTP slotted rotors; never had a problem with noise/squeaking at all.
i did that... cleaned both sides of each rotor twice with brake cleaner.. i hear those "red stuff" pads are pretty good.. anybody have experience with those?
I just got cross drilled rotors and pads from Stillen. Had them on for about a week now. So far so good. I guess the rotors are made my Brembo, there name is on the outside edge of the rotor. They make a little noise when coming to a stop, but i dont really mind it. So far the dust seems to be minimal. Ill see how they are as time goes on.
I had to comment about my Hawk HPS pads. After reading many positive reviews about them here on the board I ended up going with them when switching to 6th gen brakes. Initially I didnt really have an issue with them but now with time they are really starting to drive me nuts. From the very beginning I was irritated with lots of brake dust, but I couldent really complain seeing as the HPS pads were quiet, bit hard when warm, and generally took abuse well without any problems. Now about 15k later these brake pads not only dust to high heaven they also squeel like a stuck pig ALL THE TIME!! Its to the point where it is very embarrasing going anywhere. I am going to replace them in the near future, I just now need to figure out what pad I should go with on the next set. I cant use OEM because I destroy them the way I drive, and I dont really know of another brake pad recommended on here that is similar to the HPS.
Any suggestions?
__________________ 2002 Infiniti I35 Sport Package
Progress RSB, Otto FSTB, Michellin Pilot Sports A/S, Eibach Springs, Illumina Shocks, Fx35 Brakes Rotors/Calipers, Custom SFCs 1989 Mazda Rx7 GTU
Ls1/T56 W/ Ported TB and Full Exhaust
11.67 at 120mph 3rd time out
Make sure to rent/buy caliper tool from Autozone (to make it easier). You can use some long-nosed pliers to screw the pistons back in (frustrating).
Gauge - 2
Time - ~1Hour
better suggestion: go to sears and buy a caliper tool. They don't cost much and will work on almost any car you ever own...
Quote:
Originally Posted by wyche89
i did that... cleaned both sides of each rotor twice with brake cleaner.. i hear those "red stuff" pads are pretty good.. anybody have experience with those?
EBC pads have a good track reputation, but I didn't really like them when I used them years ago.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by sciff5
I had to comment about my Hawk HPS pads. After reading many positive reviews about them here on the board I ended up going with them when switching to 6th gen brakes. Initially I didnt really have an issue with them but now with time they are really starting to drive me nuts. From the very beginning I was irritated with lots of brake dust, but I couldent really complain seeing as the HPS pads were quiet, bit hard when warm, and generally took abuse well without any problems. Now about 15k later these brake pads not only dust to high heaven they also squeel like a stuck pig ALL THE TIME!! Its to the point where it is very embarrasing going anywhere. I am going to replace them in the near future, I just now need to figure out what pad I should go with on the next set. I cant use OEM because I destroy them the way I drive, and I dont really know of another brake pad recommended on here that is similar to the HPS.
Any suggestions?
Nope, I've used Hawk HPS in my integra, my honda, my stock maxima brakes, my 6th gen brakes, and my z32 brakes and never had that problem. Sure, occasionally I'll go through a spell where there's some squealing, but once I relube the slide pins on the caliper and re-gunk the backs of the pads its good to go again....
yea i know, but hey for normal driving it worked for me no regrets. Bottom line though this time around want a better performing pad still planning on running same brembo rotors zinc coated this time
Mods for the 2k Se max 
here is how you can test that.... a) do a few consequent 60-0 stops b) go to a car wash right away and spray your hot rotor with cold water... c) test drive... see any difference?
Linear Mode
