*NOOBIES* - The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread - Page 5

gephelps · 09-19-2006, 08:15 PM

I have seen some claims that the pedal came on cars without the hsld. They seemed to be a common mod for a lot of people due to their looks and not terrible cost.

If the rest of the car is completely stock then the chances are pretty good, but the code is the real way to tell.

beano · 09-19-2006, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Romster

Here's my problem: the driver side window opens 3" by itself when I auto-close it. I found a thread about it, read through it, and didn't find any answers. So I'm throwing it out there again in case someone has any updates. Thank you for you time.

Did unplugging the battery with windows help? I'd rather know than to have to reprogram all my radio stations. Thanks.

gephelps · 09-19-2006, 08:45 PM

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=492484

Was this the thread? The one it links to seems to have a solid answer. Which isn't unplugging the battery.

**irish44j** · 09-19-2006, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Succinct

First, I want to thank irish44j for all of the time spent answering our noobie Q's! Thanks!

My first post was about 3 weeks ago (page 3 of this thread), when I was shopping for a replacement for my beloved-but-unreliable-and-expensive 540 6-speed. This week I finally found what I was seeking - a 2003 SE 6-speed with the "limited" (leather,etc) package, with JUST the ext/int colors I was seeking, at a fair price. My Q's:

congrats. be sure to stop by the DC area forums...several Richmond folks hang out there and are very knowledgeable about all things Maxima....in case you ever need local help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Succinct

1) I don't know whether it has LSD, but figure it has everything else, so it's probable. How can I tell for sure without the original window sticker?

what the other n00b said is correct. That, or you can lay down some rubber and see if there are two full tracks (not suggested)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Succinct

2) The car has what seems like a rear tire imbalance and noisy rear tires. The front/steering is rock-steady. The tires are new Hankook Ventus HR2's. I figure it's probably the cheap tires creating all of the "ruckus". Any other theories?

tires may be out of balance, and certain tires are just louder than others. As to Hankooks...yeah, they're inexpensive, but not "cheap." Actually very good performance tires in most cases. I'm on my second set for autocross and they are superior to the top autocross tires out there, the Falken Azenis 615 and Kumho MX, in my opinion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Succinct

3) The lower part of the center of the rear cross-member looks damaged, as if run up on a curb at some point. Is this common? How hard to fix?

If you mean the member that goes below the b-pipe....don't worry about it. It's just there in case the pipe somehow breaks, so it doesn't drag on the ground. I scrape the hell out of my crossmembers all the time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Succinct

I'm sure I'll have more Q's but for now will absorb all I can from the FAQs.

excellent plan!

**irish44j** · 09-19-2006, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gephelps

If you don't trust the drilled aluminum pedals then what you need to do is pop the hood and observe the tranny code stamped on the aluminum plate which is riveted to the firewall. The same plate that shows the VIN, the engine code (VQ35DE) will show the trans code. Nissan names their gearboxes almost the same way that they name their engines. The code for the HLSD equiped 6 speed is RS6F51H. The 'H' suffix denotes the Helical device. The 6F I believe denotes 6 forward gears. Other suffixes I know of include 'A' and 'V'. My '98 Maxima had RS5F50A. The 'A' meant the car had a regular diff. But my old SE-R has RS5F32V and of course the 'V' represented the viscous coupling limited slip diff. Perhaps someone could confirm for us that their non helical equiped transmission is coded RS6F51A.

Ripped from need body shop in sacramento

you are an impressive n00b indeed.....I foresee a bright future for you around here.

gephelps · 09-19-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

you are an impressive n00b indeed.....I foresee a bright future for you around here.

I guess noob is a step up. I used to just lurk until they forced you to register.

Thanks

PitchBlackMax · 09-20-2006, 06:53 AM

Irish and gephelps, thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
As for the window issue, the lcokout switxch was the first thing I tried, but I will try testing the circuit. Thanks again!

*Eenis* · 09-24-2006, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by irish44j

Quote:

Originally Posted by Memphis2k1

What is this piece that is sticking out?

Here is the deal. I put on new(er) 2002-2003 stock 17inch rims and tires. Everything went smooth until I backed out and heard this...tink tink tink sound. I noticed these when I went to install but didin't think anything of it. Can I mod them, remove it, bend them? My drivers-side isn't the one making the noise, its the passenger-side (i think).

Orignally I had the ugly 16 inch rims that the rim covered where this piece is tapping on my new 6 spokes...when the wheel spins.

That is one of the spring clips that puts outward pressure on the pads so they don't rub the rotors when you're not braking. When pads are installed, the little metal piece circled should go INSIDE of the little tab/loop on the pad itself. Look closely and you'll see what I mean.

To his question, what about the pads that don't put loops on all 4 pads? Should we put the pads w/ the loops on the outside of the rotor and those with the clips on the inside of the rotor so that the clips don't clip against the wheels? Also, wouldn't missing the loops cause the pad to continuously rub against the rotor since there's nothing to foroce the pad off of the rotor?

DukeN · 09-24-2006, 08:28 PM

Can someone point me to the direction of a master thread or thread(s) with regards to the sub cutting out?

Have a '00 GLE with the Bose setup, the sub dies and comes back. Seems to work better in the summer, lately in the last couple of weeks has not worked at all.

Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.

**SEmy2K2go** · 09-24-2006, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DukeN

Can someone point me to the direction of a master thread or thread(s) with regards to the sub cutting out?

Have a '00 GLE with the Bose setup, the sub dies and comes back. Seems to work better in the summer, lately in the last couple of weeks has not worked at all.

Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.

How about trying the audio section since that would be the "master" of everything audio related?

**irish44j** · 09-28-2006, 07:46 PM

back to the top....where this thread is needed!

Succinct · 09-29-2006, 09:27 AM

Can I raise the rear of my '03 6-spd Maxima with a floor jack centered under the rear axle beam? Risks/considerations? Also, what is the best floor jack location in the front (so that I can raise the car & put jack stands under the stock jack pad locations)?
Thanks!

Nineleven · 09-29-2006, 09:54 AM

Anyone know where the O2 Sensor Thread is located for 5th Gens?

Thanks

J

**Puppetmaster** · 09-29-2006, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Succinct

Can I raise the rear of my '03 6-spd Maxima with a floor jack centered under the rear axle beam? Risks/considerations? Also, what is the best floor jack location in the front (so that I can raise the car & put jack stands under the stock jack pad locations)?
Thanks!

You should be fine. The beam is one of the jack points specified in the service manual. For the front, there is a little knub on that your jack will fit on.

See also:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=jack+points

**Puppetmaster** · 09-29-2006, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nineleven

Anyone know where the O2 Sensor Thread is located for 5th Gens?

Thanks

J

What do you need to know exactly?

There is some useful info here:

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf

Nineleven · 09-29-2006, 12:59 PM

I need to find the location of O2 sensor, Bank 1, Sensor 1

I've already changed out 2 O2 sensors in the past 3 months, those being Bank 2, sensor 2 and Bank 1, sensor 2

Im just not sure if Bank 1, sensor 1 is Upstream or Downstream

Nineleven · 09-29-2006, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puppetmaster

There is some useful info here:

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB02-051a.pdf

Hey thanks Puppetmaster, that was very helpful....it sent me right where I needed to go

Succinct · 09-29-2006, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nineleven

I need to find the location of O2 sensor, Bank 1, Sensor 1

I've already changed out 2 O2 sensors in the past 3 months, those being Bank 2, sensor 2 and Bank 1, sensor 2

Im just not sure if Bank 1, sensor 1 is Upstream or Downstream

My instincts (yeah I'm a newbie, but I'm 44 and have owned over a dozen cars) tell me that sensor 1 would be the upstream sensor whereas sensor 2 would be the downstream.

Edit - I see that you already got the answer. Sorry if my response was misleading at all.

rrj72 · 09-30-2006, 12:05 AM

Ok so I took my stock 2002 auto max to the track tonight to see what she'd do in the 1/4 mile...did 5 runs and the best I could pull was a 15.173

that sound pretty normal? I was hoping for like a 14.9 or atleast 14 flat. I did get a lot of tire spin, running Nitto Extreme 450's 225 width. I'll scan in the timeslips if anyone wants to see.

matt_aitchison · 09-30-2006, 01:55 AM

I Have A Question For My 20th Anniversary Maxima. Can A Clogged Fuel Filter Cause Missfiring, Also How Ofter Should You Change Your Fuel Filter?

**Puppetmaster** · 09-30-2006, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrj72

Ok so I took my stock 2002 auto max to the track tonight to see what she'd do in the 1/4 mile...did 5 runs and the best I could pull was a 15.173

that sound pretty normal? I was hoping for like a 14.9 or atleast 14 flat. I did get a lot of tire spin, running Nitto Extreme 450's 225 width. I'll scan in the timeslips if anyone wants to see.

Take a look around here to see what others have done:

http://forums.maxima.org/wheels-tires-45/

IIRC, people have run in the mid to high 14s with a stock AT 02-03 Max. I know Gooey did it for one.

*AceofSpds* · 09-30-2006, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrj72

Ok so I took my stock 2002 auto max to the track tonight to see what she'd do in the 1/4 mile...did 5 runs and the best I could pull was a 15.173

that sound pretty normal? I was hoping for like a 14.9 or atleast 14 flat. I did get a lot of tire spin, running Nitto Extreme 450's 225 width. I'll scan in the timeslips if anyone wants to see.

There are other variables that will affect your track times, if you didnt know, like humidity, air temp, track temp, and altitude

machinehead131 · 09-30-2006, 11:57 AM

Question....does anyone know or have a picture of which wire to tap into for the switched power to the auto dim mirror and the vanity light.. im hardwiring my radar detector if that helps. Thanks

rrj72 · 09-30-2006, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chopstix2nrz

There are other variables that will affect your track times, if you didnt know, like humidity, air temp, track temp, and altitude

Not what the difference between track temp and air temp was, but I live in AZ with low humidity and it was about77-80 degrees according to the gauge cluster in my car.

02bluese · 09-30-2006, 05:38 PM

Does anyone have a black headliner in there 5 gen? I have a 5.5 with the black leather and was wondering what my options are???

Trevor28 · 10-01-2006, 08:45 AM

I have looked all over this site, can't get a straight forward answer..or i'm using the wrong terms to express what i'm trying to say.
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE/SE and I believed I hooked up my AE HU just fine.
I purchased the wire harness and color matched them and grounded the unit near the car's computer ( it was bulky and shielded in the center console)
The only thing is ever since the install...all i'm getting is a high pitch sound.
I ran the rca wire from the HU to the AMP on the passenger side of the car....and the remote and power wire on the drivers side.
When I removed my factory HU, it said Clarion underneath...it would have said BOSE if it was right?!? I thought I got the wrong harness but it clearly said 1995 and up for non-bose system. Does the non-bose system in the 2000 Maxima have crossovers or amplifiers that i'm not aware of that could cause this high pitch noise? Would getting the Scoshe OEM Amplifier Adapter make a difference on a non-bose system?

Thank you for your patience in reading this...thanks for any help.

**irish44j** · 10-01-2006, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trevor28

I have looked all over this site, can't get a straight forward answer..or i'm using the wrong terms to express what i'm trying to say.
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE/SE and I believed I hooked up my AE HU just fine.
I purchased the wire harness and color matched them and grounded the unit near the car's computer ( it was bulky and shielded in the center console)
The only thing is ever since the install...all i'm getting is a high pitch sound.
I ran the rca wire from the HU to the AMP on the passenger side of the car....and the remote and power wire on the drivers side.
When I removed my factory HU, it said Clarion underneath...it would have said BOSE if it was right?!? I thought I got the wrong harness but it clearly said 1995 and up for non-bose system. Does the non-bose system in the 2000 Maxima have crossovers or amplifiers that i'm not aware of that could cause this high pitch noise? Would getting the Scoshe OEM Amplifier Adapter make a difference on a non-bose system?

Thank you for your patience in reading this...thanks for any help.

it sounds like you have a bad ground. Try running a ground wire directly to a frame piece behind the dash.

Also, the Bose setup uses a 2 ohm system, while the non-bose is 4 ohm, IIRC...