Go Back   Maxima Forums > Maxima Discussions > 5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)

5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-12-2006, 08:51 AM   #121
Don't you know who I am?
 
Rydicule's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Farmington, Connecticut
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 744

Send a message via AIM to Rydicule
Quote:
Originally Posted by IloveVQ
I was wondering if there is a rev limiter or a fuel cutoff in the fifth gen maxima. the red line is a 6500 but the rev limiter or fuel cutoff, if there is one, must be above that. anyone know?
I've hit my rev limiter at 2500 RPM I have no idea what happened, was just driving home from the store about a month ago and when I started the car, I took off and the every time the tach got up to 2500, the car started jerking and the tach dropped and shot back up, as if I was pumping the gas. I would shift up and then it would be fine, until I got up to 2500 again. I got it into sixth where I could safely do 40mph at under 2k, and then I got to a stop light and turned the car off. Started it up a few seconds later, and it was fine. Was cautious for a couple of days but now I drive like normal, no problems since. Maybe I should be worried...
Rydicule is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 08:54 AM   #122
Certified Hooptie
 
NmexMAX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Espanola, NM
iTrader: (11)
Posts: 27,189

Send a message via AIM to NmexMAX Send a message via MSN to NmexMAX Send a message via Yahoo to NmexMAX
Sounds like you have a MAF problem.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=70
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....27#post2671827

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rydicule
I've hit my rev limiter at 2500 RPM I have no idea what happened, was just driving home from the store about a month ago and when I started the car, I took off and the every time the tach got up to 2500, the car started jerking and the tach dropped and shot back up, as if I was pumping the gas. I would shift up and then it would be fine, until I got up to 2500 again. I got it into sixth where I could safely do 40mph at under 2k, and then I got to a stop light and turned the car off. Started it up a few seconds later, and it was fine. Was cautious for a couple of days but now I drive like normal, no problems since. Maybe I should be worried...
__________________
03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles

NmexMAX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 03:16 PM   #123
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
clborden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Waterbury,CT
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 224

Quote:
Originally Posted by irish44j
You'd have better luck in the regional forums....
I'm sure this is a n00b question, but where would I find the regional forums? -THANX
clborden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 03:20 PM   #124
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
clborden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Waterbury,CT
iTrader: (2)
Posts: 224

Quote:
Originally Posted by clborden
I'm sure this is a n00b question, but where would I find the regional forums? -THANX
I was right! Very n00b question. I just found them. Thanks.
clborden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 05:55 PM   #125
Canepole
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Any1 know where I can find a cheap tire iron. The dealship is asking a pretty penny for cheap hunk of steel?


Also Is any1 good at recalabrating a speedometer, I'm close but it's still 5mph off.
  Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 07:01 PM   #126
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canepole
Any1 know where I can find a cheap tire iron. The dealship is asking a pretty penny for cheap hunk of steal?
I ended up buying a universal at walmart becasue the dealer didnt give me mine


Intro- whats up guys I'm Rick. I have had a 5spd 20th AE in grey for about about a year now. I'm a honda enthusiast who bought the max as my DD because I like the look of the AE, 4 doors, and theoretical reliability with decent power. I've been reading on here for a while, but I never really post.

My questions:

1) I recently cracked my rear lip. A new one at the dealer is 450+ paint with a discount! I was interested in an aftermarket replacement but I found that none of them fit with my AE mudflaps. any suggestions? should I scrap the mudflaps and keep the rest of AE kit (will it look like it matches)?

2) My fog light burnt out. I can't figure out how the hell to replace it - the manual I think said take it to the dealer - no thanks!

3) My car shakes and does not ride all that well from like 40-65mph. I've had the wheels balanced and it doesnt solve the problem. The car has ~100k on it. Are the struts bad or is there some other problenm that could cause this?

4) the car has nearly no power past 5k rpm. Did the 01's also have the VIAS problem that I've read about in the FAQ that seems to occur on the 00's? I don't drive it that hard, but if something is wrong I want to take care of it.
ricodemus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 07:41 PM   #127
-we are your overlords-
 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 24,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canepole
Any1 know where I can find a cheap tire iron. The dealship is asking a pretty penny for cheap hunk of steel?


Also Is any1 good at recalabrating a speedometer, I'm close but it's still 5mph off.
There is a place you can send it for $50 and they'll recalibrate it perfectly.

As to tire iron..Wal Mart, any auto store. IMO you should buy a breaker bar, torque wrench, and correct size deep socket for the lug nuts.

Nobody should be putting wheels on without a torque wrench and correct settings....
__________________
2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2


Eibachs*Illuminas*BlehmCo Stage 2 LTB*Truax SFCs*Stillen RSB+RSTB*Otto FSTB*Cattman Ypipe*Place Racing CAI*
Wilwood Calipers*BlehmCo 2pc Rotors*Frankencar Catback*ES Bushings*Samco Hoses*Goodridge Lines*Raxles

irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 07:49 PM   #128
-we are your overlords-
 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 24,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricodemus
Intro- whats up guys I'm Rick. I have had a 5spd 20th AE in grey for about about a year now. I'm a honda enthusiast who bought the max as my DD because I like the look of the AE, 4 doors, and theoretical reliability with decent power. I've been reading on here for a while, but I never really post.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ricodemus
My questions:

1) I recently cracked my rear lip. A new one at the dealer is 450+ paint with a discount! I was interested in an aftermarket replacement but I found that none of them fit with my AE mudflaps. any suggestions? should I scrap the mudflaps and keep the rest of AE kit (will it look like it matches)?
can't help here, I know jack about kits, sorry

Quote:
Originally Posted by ricodemus
2) My fog light burnt out. I can't figure out how the hell to replace it - the manual I think said take it to the dealer - no thanks!
1. put car up on ramps or jack stands in front.
2. get under the car and remove splash guards underneath the burned out fog light. There is a screw on the side near the wheel, 2-3 small bolts toward the inside, and a couple of crappy plastic clips. Remove all these and pull down the splash guard below the light.
3. look up at bottom of fog light. you will see a screw/bolt facing down (philip's head). Unscrew.
4. Now, go to the front of the light and you should be able to wiggle it around until it pops out. Be careful, it will come out suddenly. There are 2 plastic clips holding it in there (I just broke them off since they annoy the hell out of me).
5. Open up assembly from the back of the light. Remove old bulb. Replece.
6. Install is reverse of removal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ricodemus
3) My car shakes and does not ride all that well from like 40-65mph. I've had the wheels balanced and it doesnt solve the problem. The car has ~100k on it. Are the struts bad or is there some other problenm that could cause this?
If you are on all-original suspension parts with 100k miles, it is a good time to replace:
- struts (all)
- tie rod ends (2)
- front sway bar endlinks (2)

all of these are probably well past their service lives and should be replaced for the sake of safety, handling, and ride quality. All three will cause vibrations and ride quality issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ricodemus
4) the car has nearly no power past 5k rpm. Did the 01's also have the VIAS problem that I've read about in the FAQ that seems to occur on the 00's? I don't drive it that hard, but if something is wrong I want to take care of it.
yes, the VIAS issue is on all VQ30DE-K's...at 100K miles there is a very good chance yours is broken. It being broken won't hurt the car itself, it just hurts peak horsepower. If you don't drive hard or go high-rpms very often, it's almost not worth the trouble to fix it...
__________________
2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2


Eibachs*Illuminas*BlehmCo Stage 2 LTB*Truax SFCs*Stillen RSB+RSTB*Otto FSTB*Cattman Ypipe*Place Racing CAI*
Wilwood Calipers*BlehmCo 2pc Rotors*Frankencar Catback*ES Bushings*Samco Hoses*Goodridge Lines*Raxles

irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 07:52 PM   #129
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 7
hey guys, the names Justin and i just got my first Max 2 weeks ago (02 SE) and love it maxima.org has definately been added to the sites i browse daily, spent the last few days just reading, time to start posting!


first things first im getting new wheels, found a pretty good deal on the g35 18's (400bucks for the set), ive read alot of ppl say the gap will look bad with new wheels at stock height. i dont wanna go very low, just want to make sure i get a good look with the new wheels. suggestions would be much appreciated cause i dont know much about suspensions
jtmoor002001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 07:59 PM   #130
-we are your overlords-
 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 24,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtmoor002001
hey guys, the names Justin and i just got my first Max 2 weeks ago (02 SE) and love it maxima.org has definately been added to the sites i browse daily, spent the last few days just reading, time to start posting!


first things first im getting new wheels, found a pretty good deal on the g35 18's (400bucks for the set), ive read alot of ppl say the gap will look bad with new wheels at stock height. i dont wanna go very low, just want to make sure i get a good look with the new wheels. suggestions would be much appreciated cause i dont know much about suspensions
1. any larger-diameter wheel will make the wheel gap "look" bigger (even if it really isn't...it's a visual illusion)
2. regarding the G 18's, I'm quite partial to them, personally. READ: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=422495
3. If you want a subtle drop (not too low and still comfortable), I suggest H&R springs with Tokico Illumina or "Blue" struts. Do springs and struts at the same time. READ: http://www.innerbean.com/housecor/sp..._decision.html

as to other suspension stuff, read the stickies in here, and browse around the first few pages. There are tons of useful threads on suspension parts near the top all the time.

good luck.
__________________
2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2


Eibachs*Illuminas*BlehmCo Stage 2 LTB*Truax SFCs*Stillen RSB+RSTB*Otto FSTB*Cattman Ypipe*Place Racing CAI*
Wilwood Calipers*BlehmCo 2pc Rotors*Frankencar Catback*ES Bushings*Samco Hoses*Goodridge Lines*Raxles

irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 08:12 PM   #131
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 7
yea, those g 18's look sweet and especially for the price.
thanks for the advice, its gonna be a fun project after i do some more how-to researching

400 a good deal for the wheels?
jtmoor002001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 08:19 PM   #132
-we are your overlords-
 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 24,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtmoor002001
yea, those g 18's look sweet and especially for the price.
thanks for the advice, its gonna be a fun project after i do some more how-to researching

400 a good deal for the wheels?
yes, a very good deal. I paid quite a bit more for mine
__________________
2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2


Eibachs*Illuminas*BlehmCo Stage 2 LTB*Truax SFCs*Stillen RSB+RSTB*Otto FSTB*Cattman Ypipe*Place Racing CAI*
Wilwood Calipers*BlehmCo 2pc Rotors*Frankencar Catback*ES Bushings*Samco Hoses*Goodridge Lines*Raxles

irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2006, 09:05 PM   #133
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 19
Officially a newbie but have scoured your forums for over a year...
My 2000 is pinging (knocking). I used to have this problem years ago w a high compression Chevy, and even w high octane gas, proper timing was critical. If it was advanced too much, same exact sound, under similar conditions.

I have never used anything but good quality 93 Octane gas. I'm taking a step by step approach. 56k miles, today I replaced the plugs w stock Platinum NGK's. No luck. Runs great when engine cold (as always), but once it warms up and it's hot out too (80+), w light acceleration, the knock is still there. If you leave the same amount of pressure on the gas pedal, it will linger. If you let up or give it more gas the problem clears up temporarily.

I am confused. I have scoured through some VERY long threads hoping to get something solid but...

Some posts have said the alleged faulty ignition coils can do this but most posts on that talk about the issue being an engine "miss". I also see some posts about this being cleared up by the MAF being replaced, but most of those posts talk more about lack of power or serious flat spots in the power curve (above 4k rpm), not about knocking/pinging.

Where the heck is the "anti-knock sensor" that is supposed to retard timing to prevent knock, and is it possible it could go "bad"? It is so noticeable it seems like something went bad (but also odd because otherwise it runs great)!

Has anyone gone step by step and found SOMETHING that for sure licked this?
raelity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2006, 05:32 AM   #134
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 17
So of course a day after I'm checking out the forums and asking questions, my maxima acts up on the drive in to work today. It's hard to describe, but accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear from like 2-3k rpm caused this noise that kind of sounded like a flat tire (like an intermittent whirring), but it came from under the hood. I could feel it in the accelerator. it was weird because it had a frequency. I also have a weird creak coming from the brakes that is of a similar frequency when I'm braking lightly. I dont know if they're related. Anyone got a clue?
ricodemus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2006, 10:26 AM   #135
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 7
Send a message via AIM to 99blackmagic
ok i searched, browsed and still couldn't find anything related to this topic.

on my dash console, not the gauges, but the heater controls (i have the automatic controls 2000 GLE) i have some lights out.

is there a writeup or is it straight forward to replace these? my dealer quoted me about $300 to remove the dash and claims it's labor intensive.

any help to offer?
99blackmagic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 09:55 AM   #136
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 235
Hi I was wondering first what companys make a y pipe for an 02 max. second what type of whp gains im looking at. and third if it is worth spending the extra to get the stainless vs. the alluminized. if anyone can answer any or all of these that would be extremely helpful. thanks
IloveVQ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 11:13 AM   #137
Certified Hooptie
 
NmexMAX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Espanola, NM
iTrader: (11)
Posts: 27,189

Send a message via AIM to NmexMAX Send a message via MSN to NmexMAX Send a message via Yahoo to NmexMAX
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=484202

Quote:
Originally Posted by IloveVQ
Hi I was wondering first what companys make a y pipe for an 02 max. second what type of whp gains im looking at. and third if it is worth spending the extra to get the stainless vs. the alluminized. if anyone can answer any or all of these that would be extremely helpful. thanks
__________________
03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles

NmexMAX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 12:00 PM   #138
I am Jack's smirking revenge
 
beancooker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 243

Ok, put on a Y-pipe last week and feels like I lost bottem end power. Dabbled in a$$hattery, and removed a 2 foot section of my WAI, now it's a short ram intake. It feels like I gained back some of the lost power. does this seem normal, or was it the 2 beers making me think I gained power?
__________________
beancooker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 02:29 PM   #139
Certified Hooptie
 
NmexMAX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Espanola, NM
iTrader: (11)
Posts: 27,189

Send a message via AIM to NmexMAX Send a message via MSN to NmexMAX Send a message via Yahoo to NmexMAX
What 2' section did you remove?

Unless you get a dyno, we cannot tell for sure.
__________________
03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles

NmexMAX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 02:34 PM   #140
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 7
Send a message via AIM to 99blackmagic
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99blackmagic
ok i searched, browsed and still couldn't find anything related to this topic.

on my dash console, not the gauges, but the heater controls (i have the automatic controls 2000 GLE) i have some lights out.

is there a writeup or is it straight forward to replace these? my dealer quoted me about $300 to remove the dash and claims it's labor intensive.

any help to offer?
bump, no one has dash lights?!
99blackmagic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 02:52 PM   #141
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 2
I am not sure if this is the right thread to post my question or not.
But i couldnt find any other place to ask this question.
I would appreciate if anyone of you could please help me understand how to get access to new threads.

I am new to this forums and anytime i try to post a new question by starting a new thread i get a message saying that i do not have permissions to start new thread.
Below is the message i get
"Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation"

Can anyone please tell what should i be doing to get privileges to start a new thread to ask any question related to my 2002 nissan maxima gle.
MaxDallas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 03:08 PM   #142
-we are your overlords-
 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 24,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by 99blackmagic
bump, no one has dash lights?!
if you have auto climate control, here's what you do:

1. remove upper vent assembly
2. remove shifter surround
3. unscrew the frame that holds the radio and climate control - 2 screws up top, 2 underneath (back behind the ashtray area)
4. pull entire assembly out, unplugging all wiring
5. unscrew side frame screws for climate control unit. These are VERY difficult to get unscrewed - make SURE you use a large philips-head...not a normal one, or you will strip them.
6. remove climate control assembly
7. Take all the little screws out that hold the climate control together
8. Thereare also littel tabs that hold it together.
9. Take climate control faceplate section off the body
10. you will see little blue bulb holdrs with tiny bulbs in them. They screw out, basically (BE CAREFUL!) You can order them from the dealer for a couple bucks - these are NOT sold at car-parts stores or anything, note.


This how-to is pretty basic. You need to closely observe what you are doing and LOOK at everything as you take it apart...it's pretty common-sense the way it comes apart, so DO NOT try to force it...be patient. Do it on a table in a well-lit room and take your time.

This probably WILL take you at least 3 hours - though it's a joke that Nissan will charge that much - I can do this whole process in under an hour (apart and back installed) having done it several times already. But the first time it's pretty time-consuming.
__________________
2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2


Eibachs*Illuminas*BlehmCo Stage 2 LTB*Truax SFCs*Stillen RSB+RSTB*Otto FSTB*Cattman Ypipe*Place Racing CAI*
Wilwood Calipers*BlehmCo 2pc Rotors*Frankencar Catback*ES Bushings*Samco Hoses*Goodridge Lines*Raxles

irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 03:11 PM   #143
-we are your overlords-
 
irish44j's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Burke, VA
iTrader: (38)
Posts: 24,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxDallas
I am not sure if this is the right thread to post my question or not.
But i couldnt find any other place to ask this question.
I would appreciate if anyone of you could please help me understand how to get access to new threads.

I am new to this forums and anytime i try to post a new question by starting a new thread i get a message saying that i do not have permissions to start new thread.
Below is the message i get
"Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation"

Can anyone please tell what should i be doing to get privileges to start a new thread to ask any question related to my 2002 nissan maxima gle.
To reduce spamming, it is required to have 15 or 20 (don't recall which) posts before you can start your own thread. Just spend some time browsing around threds and make some comments, discussion, etc.....make sure you comments are useful or "real' otherwise you'll get banned for post-whoring.

A good place to do this is in the "members rides" or "other cars" sections....Just go into people's threads about their cars and post things like "I really like your wheels, where did you get them?" or "What kind of exhaust setup is that?"

once you get to 20, post your own thread. But make sure it's not a stupid question that has been asked 100x before. Use the search feature (see stickies on how to do a "google" search on maxima.org - the search here isonly for donating members.
__________________
2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX - 2008 4Runner SportEdition - 1990 Cherokee Laredo - 1970 Triumph GT6 Mk2


Eibachs*Illuminas*BlehmCo Stage 2 LTB*Truax SFCs*Stillen RSB+RSTB*Otto FSTB*Cattman Ypipe*Place Racing CAI*
Wilwood Calipers*BlehmCo 2pc Rotors*Frankencar Catback*ES Bushings*Samco Hoses*Goodridge Lines*Raxles

irish44j is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2006, 05:22 PM   #144
I am Jack's smirking revenge
 
beancooker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
iTrader: (0)
Posts: 243

Quote:
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
What 2' section did you remove?

Unless you get a dyno, we cannot tell for sure.
The peice between the MAF and the filter. The filter now connects 4" in front of the MAF. I thought I read somewhere that a short ram would not k