*NOOBIES* - The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

[irish44j]

Originally Posted by GBAUER

honestly (and I know I'm going to get hammered for this), stay away from nissan if you want trouble-free. Nissan parts are just as expensive as BMW parts. In the last month alone, I've spent around $500 on various parts that needed to be fixed and/or replaced. If you want cheap reliability, get a toyota or honda.

George, you're the last person who should be commenting on this kind of stuff. You, who put 170,000 miles on your car in less than 4 years - with the kind of mileage you put on it, it should be no surprise that you when you have to replace alot of things....

Overall my Maxima in its first 100K miles has never left me on the side of the road. Some items have had to be replaced, but I drive hard and autocross too. The things I've had to fix are standard wear items (tie rods, struts, etc). In fact, I'd say the Maxima has had about the same amount of problems in 100K miles as my Honda Accord and Acura Integra had in the same time span.

The Maxima is far more reliable than a BMW, and parts are cheaper George....as long as you know DaveB

[GBAUER]

103k: transmission. -3k
163k: engine. -3k
80k: evap purge valve and canister $180
90k: coils -about $200
170k: speed sensor -$140
80k: main cat -$300
50k: window actuator -$100

and that's just the stuff I thought of in the first 30 seconds....


edit:
O2 sensor at 90k: $180
170k rotors: got a deal, but should've been $100
169k: alternator- $400 w/ belts
........

[NmexMAX]

I guess those late production 03's were

[Succinct]

GB - You had me sort of worried until I saw your examples. (I'd be interested in which of those prices included labor and which you installed yourself.) For the most part, they seem cheaper than BMW 540 prices, annotated below:

Originally Posted by GBAUER

103k: transmission. -3k (I have no comparison point)
163k: engine. -3k (I've seen a 10K dealer quote P&L for '99 540 short block)
80k: evap purge valve and canister $180 (I have no comparison point)
90k: coils -about $200 (about $50/ea 4 part for th 540's V8, but rare that ALL would need replacing at once)
170k: speed sensor -$140 (about $200 for a chintzy little sensor part on 540)
80k: main cat -$300 (about $1500 P&L for my 540 OEM replacements, and aftermarket cats usually throw a CEL)
50k: window actuator -$100 (I think the 540's is higher, maybe $150 (Part only). I know they fail all the time on the 540)

and that's just the stuff I thought of in the first 30 seconds....


edit:
O2 sensor at 90k: $180 (Mine were $80 each for the parts but had 4)
170k rotors: got a deal, but should've been $100 (many options, but solid OEM rotors for my 540 run anywhere from $225 to $500 for a set.)
169k: alternator- $400 w/ belts (HAH! My water-cooled alternator that just failed retails for over $600 at the stealer, plus installation labor is $350 to $400 because the coolant must be drained/replaced and lots of stuff to remove for access. In total about a $1000 job at the dealer, maybe $750 at an indy)
........

Oh yeah, what does a Maxima 5G 6-spd clutch replacement usually cost? On my 540, it's about a $2000+ job P&L, because the expensive "dual mass" flywheel cannot be machined and must be replaced:
$450 clutch kit
$700-$750 stupid OEM dual-mass flywheel
$50 sundry hoses
$500 to $700 labor

How do these numbers compare, and how long will the Max's 6-speed clutch typically last?

[NmexMAX]

And even GBAUER's prices are inflated compared to what the rest of the smart(not as rich) members on here pay.

[Ritz]

Originally Posted by irish44j

not many issues you can really check, aside from the fact that the car drives well with no misfires, odd noises, etc.

Some things to notice when test-driving:
- listen for noisy wheel bearings, particularly up front....
- if it has Potenza RE92 tires on it, insist they change some different tires on. Those are DANGEROUS
- if they'll let you take the engine cover off, look at the coils and see if they have a gray dot on them. If so, you're good. If not, tell them you want the "updated" coils.
- check the exhaust flange where the muffler attaches to the b-pipe. Notorious for rusting.

If buying from a dealer, spend the extra $1K and buy the 100,000 extended Nissan Gold warranty. It will pay for itself if you're under 50K miles on the car.

Other than that, just browse the first few pages inthe 5th gen forum and see what problems seem to be more widespread than others.

Thanks for the info.

[Dave2112]

Help! My cd player stopped worked yesterday. All its doing is clicking. I got the error code cderrFO. I checked the Bose Faq and found nothing. Anybody have a clue as to the problem and how to solve it?

[GBAUER]

Originally Posted by Succinct

GB - You had me sort of worried until I saw your examples. (I'd be interested in which of those prices included labor and which you installed yourself.) For the most part, they seem cheaper than BMW 540 prices, annotated below:

I do all my own labor, so those are just parts pricing (except the motor and tranny swaps).

[Succinct]

Originally Posted by Dave2112

Help! My cd player stopped worked yesterday. All its doing is clicking. I got the error code cderrFO. I checked the Bose Faq and found nothing. Anybody have a clue as to the problem and how to solve it?

I saw something on that in the FAQs last night. I think it was related to the disk unit getting too cold with AC on or something like that. Keep looking, and good luck!

[Memphis2k1]

How do you remove the trim panels by the doors? Any links to a write-up / howto guide kinda specific to my car?

Anything else I should know before running an amp kit?

Can I run the power wire under my car and up through the trunk? Less interference maybe??

I have a 2001 Maxima and UPS should be here any minute so I can start my install on the 4 Gauge amp kit from KnuKonceptz.com. I bought an in-dash DVD player that needs 6 RCA's ran, both of my amps are digital and I also need to run the cable for the mini head unit for my alpine amp.

I have the service manual and not much help.

Originally Posted by Memphis2k1

How do you remove the trim panels by the doors? Any links to a write-up / howto guide kinda specific to my car?

Anything else I should know before running an amp kit?

Can I run the power wire under my car and up through the trunk? Less interference maybe??

I have a 2001 Maxima and UPS should be here any minute so I can start my install on the 4 Gauge amp kit from KnuKonceptz.com. I bought an in-dash DVD player that needs 6 RCA's ran, both of my amps are digital and I also need to run the cable for the mini head unit for my alpine amp.

I have the service manual and not much help.

If your talking about the trim between the seat and door. It's just pressure clips. Try pulling it straight up, if your worried about your fingers, I guess you could use a screwdriver to pry, but they allways came up w/ no prob for me...

[Memphis2k1]

Thats basically answers my major question. Did you installed an amp kit?

I should be able to run the cable underneath the car and come up through the trunk?

I drilled a hole in my firewall, then ran it along with the RCA and remote wire. I ran it from the radio then above the pedals (don't get them twisted with the pedals) then I ran it under the side trim.(You can pull the back trim up as easy as the front) then I layed the back seats down and ran the wires around them.
Hey but it's your car, do what you want man. No one's gonna see it anyway.

[jpd]

Hey everyone, I posted this in I35, but figured I'd add it here as well, since there's more traffic in the 5th gen.

I'm new here, and am blown away by the amount of info available. It's a great place. I have an 02 I35, and have never had a problem with it until:

2 months ago, my tcs, slip & check engine light lit up. Power was way low, at 2500 rpm, it would just drop. I go to my mechanic, and he says its the MAF. I ask why it would go out at 60k miles, he says they do that, no big deal. Charges me $500 b ucks for the part. ( I checked online and saw similar prices).

Now, today, starts again. I go to autozone and get code P1102. The computer says "MAF within range but less than expected". What does that mean? What could cause the MAF to keep going out? I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow am, and I expect him to fix it again free, just wondering if anyone knows of anything he may have done wrong or if this is some sort of known problem.

Thanks in advance.

[jdm01se]

Whats up people....

So my SE is deciding to do another weird thing. Driving home from class and in an instant 3 lights in my dash turned on. The Traction Control, Slip, and ABS just turned on. After consulting with some friends and what not, i was told to check my brake fluid. It was a tad low and upon filling it, they turned off...

So im on my way to class and they turned on AGAIN. If i leave in the on position for a couple seconds, then start the car, sometimes they shut off. But for now, they are on and im considering to go to the Nissan if not told otherwise?

Thats one thing. Next is that the stock Bose 10" sub keeps phasing in and out. It gets really annoying when a good song is on and the sub just keeps phasing in and out. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[Dave2112]

Originally Posted by Succinct

I saw something on that in the FAQs last night. I think it was related to the disk unit getting too cold with AC on or something like that. Keep looking, and good luck!

Thank you! I'll check it out.

[meburdick]

I've been reading through the forums looking for anything that might be related to what I need help with, but didn't see anything. And, since I can't even *search* the forums as a new member, I see no other way to hopefully get some help.

Here goes...

My wife has an 02 SE with about 55k on it. She drives mostly around town, and we always take my vehicle for trips. I almost never drive her car any more, so I have to rely on her telling me when something isn't right.

Out of the blue, a couple of days ago, she told me that she was having a problem with the driver's window. It turns out that the problem is that the window auto-reverses when it should be "closed". Basically, it goes all the way up, then comes down about half-way. I know that this pretty much means that something is pinching/binding somewhere, but I'm looking for any thoughts on how to at least start a troubleshooting process for it.

Thanks in advance.

[IloveVQ]

I was wondering what the best y pipe brand is for an 02 Max and if there is anything i need to be concerned about as far as oxygen censors and ecu reset after installation.


BTW I also have the same problem as meburdick with my passenger window.

[NmexMAX]

Originally Posted by IloveVQ

I was wondering what the best y pipe brand is for an 02 Max and if there is anything i need to be concerned about as far as oxygen censors and ecu reset after installation.


BTW I also have the same problem as meburdick with my passenger window.

Y-pipes are essentially a waste for a 2002-2003. Save for headers.

[clborden]

I was hoping someone could post their dyno results for 2000 - 2001 Auto w/ Cattman headers installed.

[sontakke]

I am getting the dread P1320 but there are no other codes with it that I can extract using my OBD tool (BR-3 interface, hooks up to laptop). After doing some research on this forum, I thought I will have to replace all 6 coils as they are still the original on my 2000. But the FSM says that P1320 without any other codes could be bunch of things and
I really need Consult tool.
Cam somebody verify that since I am still running with the original coils, I really need to replace them? When the code comes on, I definitely feel the miss the instant it happens. I wish there was a way to pinpoint the specific failing coil so that I don't have to buy 6 of them.

[Memphis2k1]

For any other noobs out there. An amp kit is easy to install. I ran my power cable under my car, used about 20 zipties to secure it under my car next to 4/5 lines that went all the way back. Went up through the trunk infront of the spare tire and sealed the hole.

Its easy as pie then to run the cables through... for me I had to run 6 RCA's, remote wire, alpine remote control cable, speaker cables etc. Lots of work but the end result is well worth it.

[BewstAdd1ct]

Originally Posted by Memphis2k1

For any other noobs out there. An amp kit is easy to install. I ran my power cable under my car, used about 20 zipties to secure it under my car next to 4/5 lines that went all the way back.

lol. just for the record, this is NOT a good idea.

also, would a mod edit the initial post and make sure the n00bs post the year/make/model, with a new profile it isnt always obvious.

[clborden]

Originally Posted by clborden

I was hoping someone could post their dyno results for 2000 - 2001 Auto w/ Cattman headers installed.

anyone? no-one? upstatemax maybe?

[clborden]

There is a STICKY in the 4th gen forum, under modification faqs.