*NOOBIES* - The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

[evalyn]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

Still the same for '01, but the lights do not flash when unlocking in silent mode.

Right. I know that--that's what I posted about. Has anyone successfully bypassed this, so that the light flash when you unlock, but the horn doesn't honk when you lock?

[americadecali]

ok so my max turns off when I start it in the morning. this all started like during the summer. in the summer when I didnt have a cold air intake..I would start the car and the car starts perfectly fine but after a few seconds the rpm would drop and the car would feel like if it were gonna turn off but wouldnt because the rpm would go bak up and stay normal. So this problem has carried on for about 6 months now. the difference is that now I have an injen cold air intake so now the car starts fine like it alwayz and still drops in rpm...but now when it drops it trys to go bak up but doesnt and the car jus turns off. if I start the car and give it gas slightly without letting off...the car doesnt turn off instead it stays on still with the rpm lowering but den it just levels off and does not turn off...now if I try to drive the car right away the car stalls and moves barely like if it were recieving no gas. this happens for a few seconds then after the car is warmed up its perfectly fine. so lets say i drive the car and park it and den get bak in it later on the same thing happens but less everything happens in less time unless it waz right away den it doesnt happen at all....which means that this problem is directly related with the engine being cold and warm...I really dont know what the problem is and maybe this has happened to someone else so hit me up wit any ideas

[quiksilver20004]

So why wont my avatar work and how do i get that picture at the bottom of my posts?? Anyone??

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by quiksilver20004

So why wont my avatar work and how do i get that picture at the bottom of my posts?? Anyone??

I think you gotta donate ($20) to have those features.

[irish44j]

Originally Posted by quiksilver20004

So why wont my avatar work and how do i get that picture at the bottom of my posts?? Anyone??

avatar is for donating members.

I believe that your signature can be added in your User CP settings.

[DeceptI30n]

i plan on installing some new struts(illuminas) and springs(eibachs) on my 01 5spd Maxima about 52k miles on it. I was wondering what parts I should also replace while I'm at it. From the threads I've been reading, I should replace all the rubber parts. I'm thinking I should get new dust boots, but not sure about the strut mounts (insulator, bracket, and bearing) and the spring seats. I believe all that only regards to the front, and I'm not sure about the rear. thanks for the help!!

[SoonerFan]

Originally Posted by DeceptI30n

i plan on installing some new struts(illuminas) and springs(eibachs) on my 01 5spd Maxima about 52k miles on it. I was wondering what parts I should also replace while I'm at it. From the threads I've been reading, I should replace all the rubber parts. I'm thinking I should get new dust boots, but not sure about the strut mounts (insulator, bracket, and bearing) and the spring seats. I believe all that only regards to the front, and I'm not sure about the rear. thanks for the help!!

the boots are the main thing you should replace

[foodmanry]

Originally Posted by DeceptI30n

i plan on installing some new struts(illuminas) and springs(eibachs) on my 01 5spd Maxima about 52k miles on it. I was wondering what parts I should also replace while I'm at it. From the threads I've been reading, I should replace all the rubber parts. I'm thinking I should get new dust boots, but not sure about the strut mounts (insulator, bracket, and bearing) and the spring seats. I believe all that only regards to the front, and I'm not sure about the rear. thanks for the help!!

Do the boots, but since you got those parts disassembled you might as well replace the strut bearings on the front. I recommend you get new paper gaskets as well as those tend to rip or tear when disassembling those parts.

[yamahariderdk]

First off, If this is the wrong place to post, I apologize in advance.

Ok, so here is my deal, its a 5th Gen Maxima (2000)

Problem: Car takes 5-10min of cranking before starting up. Starter sounds fine, but I just hear the cranking over and over again, and then the car will just start up, idle to 1500 rpm back down to 700 rpm and then run absolutely fine until i shut the car off.

I replaced my clutch this summer, which included removing the ground wire coming from the battery terminal off of the bell housing so I thought that might be loose, but I checked for proper grounding which was fine. Also visually checked the wiring from the solenoid which looked alright (secured) I did not test it for resistance or voltage.

I thought that it was a fuel pump / filter problem, replaced the pump in the tank this weekend and cleaned filter, which made the car start up within 30 sec of initial cranking which I could live with. But this morning just like before almost 10 min of cranking until car starts.

Car has NO SES lights, everything seems to be working fine. Tripped 2 ignition coils last summer, both of which were replaced with the new Gray dot coil. Also all spark plugs were replaced about 20K ago. I use 91 gas.

Anyone have any ideas, am I missing something, or am I posting this in the complete wrong spot. Thanks in advance

[hardincah]

2k max 134k miles

ok i found there is a bad connection to my cyl. 2 fuel injector from the wiring harness. Right now the car shutters, when you push down on the connection the car smooths out-let go of the connection back to shuttering.

1- Can I fix this with out replacing anything?
2- If I replace the connector do I splice the new one to the harness or do I buy a new harness?

Thanks for any input.

[evalyn]

Originally Posted by evalyn

Right. I know that--that's what I posted about. Has anyone successfully bypassed this, so that the light flash when you unlock, but the horn doesn't honk when you lock?

Still need help on this one.

[goathead]

Is there any way to pull SES codes without using an OBDII tool?

I just changed the plugs and MAF and didn't have any codes before that. I was experiencing some hesitation over 3k rpms and after some research and changing the plugs everything pointed to the MAF. Now the car runs fantastic, but the light is on. It's a 2001 SE with 113k.

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by evalyn

Still need help on this one.

You would have to splice into the PCM/BCM which is not adviced.

Why do you want to do this anyways?

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by goathead

Is there any way to pull SES codes without using an OBDII tool?

I just changed the plugs and MAF and didn't have any codes before that. I was experiencing some hesitation over 3k rpms and after some research and changing the plugs everything pointed to the MAF. Now the car runs fantastic, but the light is on. It's a 2001 SE with 113k.

If it's running, go by a Autozone type store for a free scan. You can't retrieve it any other way.

[goathead]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

If it's running, go by a Autozone type store for a free scan. You can't retrieve it any other way.

They'll scan it for free? Nice!

[speed3000gt]

Originally Posted by americadecali

ok so my max turns off when I start it in the morning. this all started like during the summer. in the summer when I didnt have a cold air intake..I would start the car and the car starts perfectly fine but after a few seconds the rpm would drop and the car would feel like if it were gonna turn off but wouldnt because the rpm would go bak up and stay normal. So this problem has carried on for about 6 months now. the difference is that now I have an injen cold air intake so now the car starts fine like it alwayz and still drops in rpm...but now when it drops it trys to go bak up but doesnt and the car jus turns off. if I start the car and give it gas slightly without letting off...the car doesnt turn off instead it stays on still with the rpm lowering but den it just levels off and does not turn off...now if I try to drive the car right away the car stalls and moves barely like if it were recieving no gas. this happens for a few seconds then after the car is warmed up its perfectly fine. so lets say i drive the car and park it and den get bak in it later on the same thing happens but less everything happens in less time unless it waz right away den it doesnt happen at all....which means that this problem is directly related with the engine being cold and warm...I really dont know what the problem is and maybe this has happened to someone else so hit me up wit any ideas

I bet yours is an '00 or '01........... check this thread out

Anyone else experienced hesitation while idling in Cold? '00/ '01

[tookrzy4u192]

hey everyone, i just recently purchased a 02 maxima SE and i'm now looking for an intake.. i see a lot of people have the Berk intake and i was actually wondering what the difference is between an intake w/ Apexi Air Filter and an intake w/ AEM Dryflow Air Filter? im also thinking about the Injen CAI.. any thoughts about that? any help will be appreciated

[evalyn]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

You would have to splice into the PCM/BCM which is not advised.

Why do you want to do this anyways?

If it's too complicated, I'll leave it alone. I want to do it because I want the lights to flash when I unlock, but I don't want the horn to honk when I lock. Looks like I can't have it both ways.... unless someone else has an idea.

[maxgen5]

This thread is getting long. I've had the same cold start problem in my wifey's 2k Max with 130k miles for a few months now with Bank2 running lean. Starts and surges until warmed up, then runs okay, but not great. Reading through all comments in the forums, I just couldn't start throwing part$ at it hoping for a fix.

I discovered that when the coil packs get weak, the car will ping and clatter even with high octane fuel and octane boost, so I replaced them. Fixed the pinging, but still hesitates and surges in the mornings and now will not exceed 4500 RPM willfully. No codes now and I'm frustrated as heck after dropping $509 on new coil packs.

I then swapped the MAF sensor for a known good working sensor from a friends tool drawer and VOILA... it ran like a rocketship compared to before.

After that, I had the computer fuel map reset to default by a Nissan mechanic buddy of mine. The fuel was at 108% before and this resets it to 100% to learn driving habits all over again. We took it for a test drive and got those new Bridgstone Potenza Pole Position front tires nice and toasty. WOW, my power is back.

It would have cost me $260 labor and $940 parts to fix at the stealership and I still think it would have been worth it. If you don't want to drop $400 on a MAF, get one from a salvage yard, try it in a good working car, hnag on to it or keep it for one of your friends that has the same year Max. $20 is better than paying $400 for a MAF. I got mine for free and will get to return the favor to someone the same way some day.

Now I just need to fix that clunking sound in the front passenger area. Next Thread.

[jeffleck]

Is there any way to provide power to the auxiliary power outlets when the car is turned off. In my previous car, I was able to move a fuse from one spot to another in order to allow power to continue to the outlets. I am wanting to continue to charge my phone when the engine is turned off. Any suggestions?

[Nevermore]

I read about the diffrence in the 350z motor and the maxima motor. that the reason for the maxima not having as much power is because of a different ECU and intake manifold...is this true? and would it be a easy swap for both? cheap or pricey?

[goathead]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

If it's running, go by a Autozone type store for a free scan. You can't retrieve it any other way.

Stopped by and they pulled code p0420. I checked it out online and it seems like people are all over the board as to what this means or what the problem is. Some people are replacing o2 sensors, some replacing cats, some putting in o2 sims...what's the deal? Keep in mind I just changed my plugs and MAF and got this code the same day after I did the work.

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by goathead

Stopped by and they pulled code p0420. I checked it out online and it seems like people are all over the board as to what this means or what the problem is. Some people are replacing o2 sensors, some replacing cats, some putting in o2 sims...what's the deal? Keep in mind I just changed my plugs and MAF and got this code the same day after I did the work.

I would double check your plug installation.

Causes:

Three way catalyst (Manifold)
Exhaust tube
Intake air leaks
Injectors
Injector leaks
Spark plug

Improper ignition timing

[goathead]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

I would double check your plug installation.

Causes:

Three way catalyst (Manifold)
Exhaust tube
Intake air leaks
Injectors
Injector leaks
Spark plug

Improper ignition timing

I think the plugs are good. I double checked all the gaps and it idles smooth and runs perfect, no hesitation. Intake leaks might be a possibility because I had a hard time getting the tube hooked back to the throttle body. Good thought.

[Justinity]

Hello I have a 2000 nissan maxima se that I got from a auto auction and I bought a keyless remote for it off ebay and I can't program it it's Model/ 01A and the fcc id is kbrastu10 My car was made in april 1999 what keyless remote do I need???

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by Justinity

Hello I have a 2000 nissan maxima se that I got from a auto auction and I bought a keyless remote for it off ebay and I can't program it it's Model/ 01A and the fcc id is kbrastu10 My car was made in april 1999 what keyless remote do I need???

Read here:

Keyless entry brain


You need to match the FCC # off the module.