*NOOBIES* - The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by awolfinwater

Attempted to perform Idle relearn procedure but the stalling while idling symptom returned so I was unable to complete. I believe the IACV is faulty because I know no longer here it operating when I put the key in the "on" position.

The ECU controls the valve, so if the ECU is fried, it will not operate the valve....I'll have to try and pull up the schematic, but pretty sure it's gonna be your ECU.

Added: After looking through the ECM (EC-433), it possibly could be your power steering air control valve as well. I don't have the room to type in all the wire continuity procedures here, so can you get your hands on a ESM?

[awolfinwater]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

The ECU controls the valve, so if the ECU is fried, it will not operate the valve....I'll have to try and pull up the schematic, but pretty sure it's gonna be your ECU.

Added: After looking through the ECM (EC-433), it possibly could be your power steering air control valve as well. I don't have the room to type in all the wire continuity procedures here, so can you get your hands on a ESM?

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the best source document I have is the haynes manual. There is a procedure in the haynes for checking the voltage on the harness to the IACV. I will check the voltages as well as check the resistances of the IACV tomorrow once there is sunlight.

I also just purchased a used IACV for $45 as insurance.

I feel like the wire continuity procedure might be a little out of my league. Thanks again for all the help.

EDIT: Just found an online copy of the ESM. Link for others with similar issues: link
I see the mention of the power steering air control valve and I am reviewing the troubleshooting procedure.

[RedRun]

what kind of gas do you put in your maxima? ive been running 93 but i dont want to continue if i dont have to. its a 2000 VQ30de-K

[awolfinwater]

Originally Posted by RedRun

what kind of gas do you put in your maxima? ive been running 93 but i dont want to continue if i dont have to. its a 2000 VQ30de-K

Redrun, read up: link

[evalyn]

Originally Posted by awolfinwater

Just found an online copy of the ESM. Link for others with similar issues: link

Thank you SO MUCH! I was having a heck of a time finding this.

Evalyn

[IHAVEA2KMAXIMA]

Hey guys. My radiator is leaking and I want to change it myself but not sure exact how to. I tried searching and found some info on how to change the radiator for 4th gen and seemed somewhat easy. Can anyone give me a little write up on changing radiator for 5th gen perhaps? Seems like its only hoses and bolts. Also, do I drain the coolant in the radiator via bolts at the bottom? Thanks.
Edit: I have some basic hand tools only, so if you can list what I need to get the job done too, that would be swell.

[evalyn]

My A/C belt makes awful screeching noises whever I drive through the slightest amount of water. Is this normal?

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by evalyn

My A/C belt makes awful screeching noises whever I drive through the slightest amount of water. Is this normal?

no.

[evalyn]

Hey, so I just kinda got burned in another thread for adding something to an old post. Are there etiquette rules that look down on this kind of thing? I was just trying to add my 2 cents to the discussion, even though the last post before mine was in March.

[NmexMAX]

Not really etiquette rules, but if it hasn't been resurrected since March, it's old news.

Also, tighten your AC belt. A quick search should pull some good hits.

[Scottwax]

Originally Posted by IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

Hey guys. My radiator is leaking and I want to change it myself but not sure exact how to. I tried searching and found some info on how to change the radiator for 4th gen and seemed somewhat easy. Can anyone give me a little write up on changing radiator for 5th gen perhaps? Seems like its only hoses and bolts. Also, do I drain the coolant in the radiator via bolts at the bottom? Thanks.
Edit: I have some basic hand tools only, so if you can list what I need to get the job done too, that would be swell.

You should be able to find the link to the FSM (factory service manual) in awolfinwater 2 posts above yours.

Pretty easy to R&R, remove the splash guard undernearth and drain the radiator. Disconnect top and bottom radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines, the brackets at the top that hold the radiator in place and disconnect the fan wiring harnesses. Make sure everything is disconnected and gently lift the old radiator (with fans connected) out of the engine bay. Remove the fans from the old radiator, bolt onto the new radiator and put everything back together and refill the cooling system, preferrably with new coolant. Make sure you warm the engine enough to open the thermostat, then turn off, let cool and check the coolant level. You may have to do this a couple times to get all the air out of the system.

[RedRun]

ok obvously im new here lol.

why cant i start a thread? i have some technical questions and i want to post up some pics of my car (you know you want to see a VQ30 swapped rx7) so will someone explain to me why my accound hasnt been approved yet? thanks a ton.

-RR

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by RedRun

ok obvously im new here lol.

why cant i start a thread? i have some technical questions and i want to post up some pics of my car (you know you want to see a VQ30 swapped rx7) so will someone explain to me why my accound hasnt been approved yet? thanks a ton.

-RR

Takes 15 posts to create your own thread, no way to bypass that.

There are however, a All Motor section, along with a Post Your Picture here type threads. In the mean time, you can ask your questions here, that is the point of this thread.

[eazymax]

Wussup everyone! I'm a newbie! I registered a while ago but never posted anything. So here's my 1st post!

[eazymax]

So my newbie question is:

I think my tranny may be going out. I noticed it's starting to slip between 2nd and 3rd or when i come to a close stop (making a turn or going over a speed bump kinda thing) and put some gas into it, then it revs up and then pops into gear.

I did a drain and fill of the fluid. It was really dark brown almost black when I drained it. filled it wit 4 quarts like the Nissan tech said and checked the level every now and then but same thing.

What are my options or what can it be??

Please help guys....

Thanks much iin advance!!!

[mcb05003]

Hey i'm ordering new rotorpros and was wondering what rotor color paint if any should I get if my 2002 max is grey?

[AceofSpds]

Originally Posted by mcb05003

Hey i'm ordering new rotorpros and was wondering what rotor color paint if any should I get if my 2002 max is grey?

black

[AceofSpds]

Originally Posted by RedRun

ok obvously im new here lol.

why cant i start a thread? i have some technical questions and i want to post up some pics of my car (you know you want to see a VQ30 swapped rx7) so will someone explain to me why my accound hasnt been approved yet? thanks a ton.

-RR

I remember seeing that car for sale and a youtube vid of it almost half a year ago. Post it up when you can!

[hi-tek22]

Originally Posted by chopstix2nrz

black

BLACK OR SILVER/GREY

all others are un-necessary...especially given the cost that most places charge, especially if your "NOT" doing the paint job yourself

[RedRun]

heres my issue:

with normal driving, the car drives fine and acts normal. but under heavy throttle, the car has much less than average power.

the first 1/4 throttle feels normal and has pep but 1/2 throttle has the same power as full throttle. (i can hear the throttle body opening and getting louder but there is not a power difference).

4th gear only has enough power to take it to 4k rpms. and in 6th gear, the car wont do over 90mph, when 100mph was a breeze last week.

while driving it i can hear a decently loud hissing sound like air getting sucked into an intake whenever i go by a building or something for the soudn to reflect back off of. Under the hood with the car running.. pumping the throttle manually, i can hear air sucking in right on top of the motor at the intake manifold.

so i was thinking that maybe the intake manifold gasket is bad and it is sucking air through that when the motor really starts pulling air in hard (like heavy acceleration and high rpms) and the mafs isnt reading the air going in so it isnt adding any fuel....

but this doesnt quite make sense because i would expect the car to run like poop if the mafs isnt reading the air going into the motor.... so maybe i have a vacuum leak? but im not really sure how to check it or where to start looking for it. help please lol.

[Skorp1on]

Hello there - it seems that I am experiencing some problem with loosening the spindle nut for my passenger side 02 max. Anyone got any tips or idea to get it off?
I want to replace my wheel bearing. First the nut was really loose after removing the cotter pin but then I retighten it just to make sure the bearing is still bad before I go further. Therefore, I tighten it, put the wheel back on, and went for a short test drive. When I jack up the car trying trying to remove the nut, it's stuck on reallly tight. I even tried to use impact wrench with no success. Did I cross-thread the nut to the spindle shaft somehow?

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by Skorp1on

Hello there - it seems that I am experiencing some problem with loosening the spindle nut for my passenger side 02 max. Anyone got any tips or idea to get it off?
I want to replace my wheel bearing. First the nut was really loose after removing the cotter pin but then I retighten it just to make sure the bearing is still bad before I go further. Therefore, I tighten it, put the wheel back on, and went for a short test drive. When I jack up the car trying trying to remove the nut, it's stuck on reallly tight. I even tried to use impact wrench with no success. Did I cross-thread the nut to the spindle shaft somehow?

What did you torque this nut too? I would get a large breaker/cheater bar. It will provide alot more force then a impact wrench. Nut should be tightened to 188-245 ftlbs.

[meseville]

Why do new members have to do 15 responses before we can start a new thread? Some newby asked this same question and the answer given him was to go to an address within this forum. When I tried to go th this address ... this forum said something about not being able to go to old threads, older than 2006-2007?

[Skorp1on]

Originally Posted by VQP0WER

What did you torque this nut too? I would get a large breaker/cheater bar. It will provide alot more force then a impact wrench. Nut should be tightened to 188-245 ftlbs.

I did not torque it to spec - just tighten it hard as I possibly can by hand/non-extended breaker bar.

In theory, since that I used the breaker bar to tighten, then that same breaker bar should be able to be used to loosen it. Unfortunately, I don't have a larger pipe to cheat even further. The nut seems to turn a little in the tightening rotation and tough on the loosening rotation. It's really annoying - I didn't run into this type problem on my toyota. One thing I did notice from tighten the spindle nut is that the wheel no longer seems loose and less front-end noise. It makes me think that the bearing might not be in such a bad shape after all. By the way, I have 107k on mine so it almost seems like the time to replace my wheel bearing based on the many posts I've read here

[Skorp1on]

Originally Posted by Skorp1on

Thanks Scottwax.
Yes - tried to recently reset CEL for loose gas cap. It still came back on immediately since I forgot to tighten it. Anyway, CEL was gone was once gas cap is tighten. This happens a few thousand miles ago. I've definitely driven the car more than 50-60 miles of various patterns and may not necessarily reflect the driving pattern instructed of Owner's Manual to get the car ready. But with the amount of miles already driven, the car should in theory be ready.

Not sure what you mean to check pending code - not exactly familar with that. I do have an Actron Scantool to check for codes, which I think my local mechanic has similar one - is there a special feature built into the scan tool to check for pending codes?

Anyway, I searched previous thread and found another owner had the same problem as me and it was later determined that one of the rear O2 Sensors when bad even CEL is not on. That owner replaced the sensor, then the catalyst and o2 monitor was shown to be ready to finally pass inspection. I am considering to replace both rear 02 sensors just to give it a shot to see it fixes the problem. If I take it to the dealer, they will more than likely charge me the cost of 2 o2 sensors anyway just to "try" to diagnose the problem or possibly connect it to Consult. What do you think? And thanks for your help.

Just want to post an update to this original question. Any how, I replaced both post-cat O2 sensors (bosch universal type) spliced into the OEM connector and today I noticed that my Actron scantool reports that O2 Sensor is ready. However, the Catalyst still shows up as "Not Ready". Can anyone who lives in NY state can confirm that DMV will permit insepction and pass with 1 monitor being not ready? I was able to find this link below and it says 1 "not ready" monitor is allowed for 2001 and later cars.
href="http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/broch/c114.pdf"

Oh yeah, I will try to go to the inspection station and find out whether they would pass my car or not.

[VQP0WER]

Originally Posted by Skorp1on