5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Nope, but there is a "dealer & vendor experience" section of the forum, and if you search and spend enough time on here you will generally come across alot of good reviews & opinions on various products.
Hey yall.. I searched and couldn't find. I recently put on tokico illuminas to match my eibach coilovers and to replace my blown stock struts. Since getting new struts handling has gotten amazingly better, but when I hit any significant bumps at more than say 5-10mph I have experience some tramatizing crashes. Twice bolts where even squeaking afterwards. Cringe cringe.. One time I hit a joint on the freeway and it crashed so hard that it literally slung my wiper knob on. Another thing are manhole drains on one side of lanes.. those things KILL me. Arrrr
Thats really really bad and I'm tired of it.. I know everybody on here doesn't have stiff suspension and deal with that.. anything I can do? I want quiet suspension like everybody else. And I'm tired of being paranoid about bumps most people don't even think about. O yeah I run my illuminas on 4 and reducing it to 1 doesn't help. Thanks, please help.
Hey yall.. I searched and couldn't find. I recently put on tokico illuminas to match my eibach coilovers and to replace my blown stock struts. Since getting new struts handling has gotten amazingly better, but when I hit any significant bumps at more than say 5-10mph I have experience some tramatizing crashes. Twice bolts where even squeaking afterwards. Cringe cringe.. One time I hit a joint on the freeway and it crashed so hard that it literally slung my wiper knob on. Another thing are manhole drains on one side of lanes.. those things KILL me. Arrrr
Thats really really bad and I'm tired of it.. I know everybody on here doesn't have stiff suspension and deal with that.. anything I can do? I want quiet suspension like everybody else. And I'm tired of being paranoid about bumps most people don't even think about. O yeah I run my illuminas on 4 and reducing it to 1 doesn't help. Thanks, please help.
Can someone help me out here? Im still looking for an answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reizy
I recently bought an 02 SE with an auto transmission and am having it slip from 2nd to 3rd especially when cold. I read the TSB for the valve body and read some threads about the VB mod. I dont really want the jolt during shifting so Id like to stay stock. Im wondering if my problem is related to the VB and Id like to change it out and see. The problem is I cant find the part anywhere online. Is it a pricy part or is it something that I can take out, clean, inspect and replace to solve my problem? What would I be looking for? I already did the flush and still have the problem. The car has ~75K miles on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperStasiu
Take it back to the dealer the car should of come with some 60-90 day warranty or if you bought an extended warranty take it back to the dealer and have them replace it
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reizy
I wish I could but I bought the car private party and sure enough the tranny was nice and warm when I bought it and didnt slip. It mostly does it when cold or under load. Has anyone had Nissan service the tranny per the TSB for slip? Did the VB fix the problem?
don't waste money on buying any. Just get some black paint and paint yours. They will still shine through at night if you use light coats and then some clearcoat.
clears on a black car look retarded.
is any certain type of paint needed for this??
also how do u remove them??
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Blacked out 02 headlights,15% tint, 18" rims 245/40/18 Federal tires,Fstb,Gab Mod with K&n,Highflow cat, warpspeed y-pipe,17* advance.
Daily Driver:2000 Maxima
New Weekend Warrior: 1991 300zx 5spd
I was in the process of putting my stock intake back on and I got close. The MAF has 4 screws that connect it to the stock airbox. I got 3 screws on but theres one thats impossible to reach with your hand. Im thinking the only way to bolt all 4 up is to take the MAF out...is this correct? I heard so many stories of people's MAFs failing so I didnt want to mess around with it unnecessarily if theres no need. How exactly is it taken out? Theres a silver bracket around it and loosens and tightens with a flathead screwdriver...is this the right way to do it?
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2006 CBR 600rr and 2003 Maxima 6mT
I have searched the threads, and I do apologize if I've missed it, but...
...my boyfriend and I changed my brakes this weekend - my rotors were warped so we replaced the pads and rotors. The front two wheels, fine, no problem, but the rear two - we weren't able to fully depress the caliper pistons and the new brake pads were too thick to put on with the new rotors. Thankfully, my old pads were in pretty good shape. We replaced everything and then realized, after bleeding the brake lines, that I had no pressure under on my brake pedal. We rebled the system, no result. Did it a third time, including disconnecting the ground from my battery, and the ABS Sensors, and still no luck. We came to the conclusion that the master cylinder was dieing.
Can a master cylinder be killed/die if air is in the lines, the vehicle is driven, and the air gets into the master cylinder? Or was it probably going before, even though I didn't have a single problem before changing my brakes?
Also, anyone having problems completely depressing the rear caliper pistons?
I have searched the threads, and I do apologize if I've missed it, but...
...my boyfriend and I changed my brakes this weekend - my rotors were warped so we replaced the pads and rotors. The front two wheels, fine, no problem, but the rear two - we weren't able to fully depress the caliper pistons and the new brake pads were too thick to put on with the new rotors. Thankfully, my old pads were in pretty good shape. We replaced everything and then realized, after bleeding the brake lines, that I had no pressure under on my brake pedal. We rebled the system, no result. Did it a third time, including disconnecting the ground from my battery, and the ABS Sensors, and still no luck. We came to the conclusion that the master cylinder was dieing.
Can a master cylinder be killed/die if air is in the lines, the vehicle is driven, and the air gets into the master cylinder? Or was it probably going before, even though I didn't have a single problem before changing my brakes?
Also, anyone having problems completely depressing the rear caliper pistons?
Thanks.
you need a special tool to compress the rears (due to the e-brake). you might have messed up the master cylinder.
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Represented by: Graham Motorsports Media 2008 Xterra Off Road (N50 | VQ40DE | KH3)
06 Mazda 6
Maxima - A33 | VQ35DE | RS6F51A | KH3/G
NWP Engineering Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers
Hybrid Berk/Frankencar Intake | Frankencar catback | Cattman STS | ES 6-speed bushings
H&R Springs | Tokico Struts | Progress RSB | Otto FSTB | Blemco LTB | Hawks HPS Pads | Custom Front Lip
I have searched the threads, and I do apologize if I've missed it, but...
...my boyfriend and I changed my brakes this weekend - my rotors were warped so we replaced the pads and rotors. The front two wheels, fine, no problem, but the rear two - we weren't able to fully depress the caliper pistons and the new brake pads were too thick to put on with the new rotors. Thankfully, my old pads were in pretty good shape. We replaced everything and then realized, after bleeding the brake lines, that I had no pressure under on my brake pedal. We rebled the system, no result. Did it a third time, including disconnecting the ground from my battery, and the ABS Sensors, and still no luck. We came to the conclusion that the master cylinder was dieing.
Can a master cylinder be killed/die if air is in the lines, the vehicle is driven, and the air gets into the master cylinder? Or was it probably going before, even though I didn't have a single problem before changing my brakes?
Also, anyone having problems completely depressing the rear caliper pistons?
Thanks.
You must use a special tool (or needle-nose pliers) to TURN the rear pistons, they don't push in with a c-clamp, instead they are threaded.
As for the bleeding, I HIGLY doubt that it is the master, there is a special order that you must follow in order to bleed the brakes..... Right Rear---Left Front---Left Rear---Right Front. Also keep an eye on the level in the master obviously
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Gatorade on my keyboard FTL.
5th & 5.5 gen VLSD Auto transmissions for sale, PM me.
What is the part number for the 2002 headlight wiring harness im having trouble finding it on the courtesyparts site the re did the site and the search gives 200 results.
What is the part number for the 2002 headlight wiring harness im having trouble finding it on the courtesyparts site the re did the site and the search gives 200 results.
call daveb
__________________
Represented by: Graham Motorsports Media 2008 Xterra Off Road (N50 | VQ40DE | KH3)
06 Mazda 6
Maxima - A33 | VQ35DE | RS6F51A | KH3/G
NWP Engineering Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers
Hybrid Berk/Frankencar Intake | Frankencar catback | Cattman STS | ES 6-speed bushings
H&R Springs | Tokico Struts | Progress RSB | Otto FSTB | Blemco LTB | Hawks HPS Pads | Custom Front Lip
You must use a special tool (or needle-nose pliers) to TURN the rear pistons, they don't push in with a c-clamp, instead they are threaded.
As for the bleeding, I HIGLY doubt that it is the master, there is a special order that you must follow in order to bleed the brakes..... Right Rear---Left Front---Left Rear---Right Front. Also keep an eye on the level in the master obviously
I completely forgot about using that other tool.
As far as bleeding, we did do the RR, LF, LR, RF order, and we disconnected the battery and ABS sensor...but there was also a good amount of fluid leaking from the MC.
If it turns out the MC is good, we'll return the part to the store, (it should be coming in today).
Hey there, this noobie question thread is a great idea. I'm the proud owner of a 5th Gen as of February, and just have a coiuple questions I'd like to bounce off the experts:
1) My Bose 6-disc deck is shorting in and out when I hit small bumps; the entire left side speakers (doors, tweets...etc) short on and off. Would this be coming from the deck, and has this ever happened to anyone else?
2) When the temperature gets below about 12-13 degrees C, the CD player skips incessently - to the point where just have to listen to the radio. Ever happened to anyone? The dealership quoted me ~$375 for a new deck including parts and labour.
3) In researching aftermarket decks, I've found that I need some sort of amplifier adaptor in order to power the Bose sound system, is this true? if so, where's the cheapest place to get one?
1) My Bose 6-disc deck is shorting in and out when I hit small bumps; the entire left side speakers (doors, tweets...etc) short on and off. Would this be coming from the deck, and has this ever happened to anyone else?
Happened to all of us. Give it a good slam, or take it in and get it replaced for free under the TSB. Should work ok for a few months, then the problem will return. I just keep giving mine the nudge, and it works fine after that.
Quote:
2) When the temperature gets below about 12-13 degrees C, the CD player skips incessently - to the point where just have to listen to the radio. Ever happened to anyone? The dealership quoted me ~$375 for a new deck including parts and labour.
Same thing happens here, enjoy the radio while it 'warms' up.
Quote:
3) In researching aftermarket decks, I've found that I need some sort of amplifier adaptor in order to power the Bose sound system, is this true? if so, where's the cheapest place to get one?
I want to know: Does this retrofit onto my 2000 Maxima? I am dieing for an answer and I've exhausted my searching and have found no real answers. This type of factory retrofit worked on my 2003 mini cooper and I am very satisfied with that so I'm wondering if I can do this on a 2000 Maxima (which didn't have factory xenon as an option). I got this maxima as a hand me down and I really would love some xenons on it =).
Hi,
I found out from reading the forums that my front whell bearings are shot(winding noise, clunking on bumps). Nissan near New Orleans charges me 1300 including parts. Im in the Navy so we have a hobby shop on base , I know I can do it my self but im looking for a write up hopefully with pics. They also have the press to put them in, car is 02.
Thanks, Rudy N.
So Im think about gettin' the Injen RS intake and the Gready Evo2 exhaust system. Im just wonderin how many extra ponies these mods would get out of my fully stock 2000 max?
i gotta quick question...i changed the bulbs in my fog lights and when i popped my panel i lost some of the screws that screw the panel back and its hangin down a lil....what can i get to screw or put it back 2gether...
[quote=NmexMAX]Happened to all of us. Give it a good slam, or take it in and get it replaced for free under the TSB. Should work ok for a few months, then the problem will return. I just keep giving mine the nudge, and it works fine after that. [quote]
i gotta quick question...i changed the bulbs in my fog lights and when i popped my panel i lost some of the screws that screw the panel back and its hangin down a lil....what can i get to screw or put it back 2gether...
get the tabs from a dealership or use zipties
__________________
Represented by: Graham Motorsports Media 2008 Xterra Off Road (N50 | VQ40DE | KH3)
06 Mazda 6
Maxima - A33 | VQ35DE | RS6F51A | KH3/G
NWP Engineering Thermal Intake Manifold Spacers
Hybrid Berk/Frankencar Intake | Frankencar catback | Cattman STS | ES 6-speed bushings
H&R Springs | Tokico Struts | Progress RSB | Otto FSTB | Blemco LTB | Hawks HPS Pads | Custom Front Lip
I can't find any info on reproggraming keys. I've found several on programing the key fob but not the keys them selves. I've got an 02' Is there a link or how too I'm over looking? I'm Not in the position to pay $100 bucks for a key right now.
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Guess again my foreign friend, American Muscle will DO You IN!