5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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I have seen some claims that the pedal came on cars without the hsld. They seemed to be a common mod for a lot of people due to their looks and not terrible cost.
If the rest of the car is completely stock then the chances are pretty good, but the code is the real way to tell.
Here's my problem: the driver side window opens 3" by itself when I auto-close it. I found a thread about it, read through it, and didn't find any answers. So I'm throwing it out there again in case someone has any updates. Thank you for you time.
Did unplugging the battery with windows help? I'd rather know than to have to reprogram all my radio stations. Thanks.
First, I want to thank irish44j for all of the time spent answering our noobie Q's! Thanks!
My first post was about 3 weeks ago (page 3 of this thread), when I was shopping for a replacement for my beloved-but-unreliable-and-expensive 540 6-speed. This week I finally found what I was seeking - a 2003 SE 6-speed with the "limited" (leather,etc) package, with JUST the ext/int colors I was seeking, at a fair price. My Q's:
congrats. be sure to stop by the DC area forums...several Richmond folks hang out there and are very knowledgeable about all things Maxima....in case you ever need local help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Succinct
1) I don't know whether it has LSD, but figure it has everything else, so it's probable. How can I tell for sure without the original window sticker?
what the other n00b said is correct. That, or you can lay down some rubber and see if there are two full tracks (not suggested)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Succinct
2) The car has what seems like a rear tire imbalance and noisy rear tires. The front/steering is rock-steady. The tires are new Hankook Ventus HR2's. I figure it's probably the cheap tires creating all of the "ruckus". Any other theories?
tires may be out of balance, and certain tires are just louder than others. As to Hankooks...yeah, they're inexpensive, but not "cheap." Actually very good performance tires in most cases. I'm on my second set for autocross and they are superior to the top autocross tires out there, the Falken Azenis 615 and Kumho MX, in my opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Succinct
3) The lower part of the center of the rear cross-member looks damaged, as if run up on a curb at some point. Is this common? How hard to fix?
If you mean the member that goes below the b-pipe....don't worry about it. It's just there in case the pipe somehow breaks, so it doesn't drag on the ground. I scrape the hell out of my crossmembers all the time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Succinct
I'm sure I'll have more Q's but for now will absorb all I can from the FAQs.
excellent plan!
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
If you don't trust the drilled aluminum pedals then what you need to do is pop the hood and observe the tranny code stamped on the aluminum plate which is riveted to the firewall. The same plate that shows the VIN, the engine code (VQ35DE) will show the trans code. Nissan names their gearboxes almost the same way that they name their engines. The code for the HLSD equiped 6 speed is RS6F51H. The 'H' suffix denotes the Helical device. The 6F I believe denotes 6 forward gears. Other suffixes I know of include 'A' and 'V'. My '98 Maxima had RS5F50A. The 'A' meant the car had a regular diff. But my old SE-R has RS5F32V and of course the 'V' represented the viscous coupling limited slip diff. Perhaps someone could confirm for us that their non helical equiped transmission is coded RS6F51A.
Irish and gephelps, thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
As for the window issue, the lcokout switxch was the first thing I tried, but I will try testing the circuit. Thanks again!
Here is the deal. I put on new(er) 2002-2003 stock 17inch rims and tires. Everything went smooth until I backed out and heard this...tink tink tink sound. I noticed these when I went to install but didin't think anything of it. Can I mod them, remove it, bend them? My drivers-side isn't the one making the noise, its the passenger-side (i think).
Orignally I had the ugly 16 inch rims that the rim covered where this piece is tapping on my new 6 spokes...when the wheel spins.
That is one of the spring clips that puts outward pressure on the pads so they don't rub the rotors when you're not braking. When pads are installed, the little metal piece circled should go INSIDE of the little tab/loop on the pad itself. Look closely and you'll see what I mean.
To his question, what about the pads that don't put loops on all 4 pads? Should we put the pads w/ the loops on the outside of the rotor and those with the clips on the inside of the rotor so that the clips don't clip against the wheels? Also, wouldn't missing the loops cause the pad to continuously rub against the rotor since there's nothing to foroce the pad off of the rotor?
__________________
"Evil hands are happy hands."
-Poster in Dead Pool
"Sandwiches are for poor people."
Unknown guy on Atlanta sports radio
Can someone point me to the direction of a master thread or thread(s) with regards to the sub cutting out?
Have a '00 GLE with the Bose setup, the sub dies and comes back. Seems to work better in the summer, lately in the last couple of weeks has not worked at all.
Can someone point me to the direction of a master thread or thread(s) with regards to the sub cutting out?
Have a '00 GLE with the Bose setup, the sub dies and comes back. Seems to work better in the summer, lately in the last couple of weeks has not worked at all.
Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
How about trying the audio section since that would be the "master" of everything audio related?
Can I raise the rear of my '03 6-spd Maxima with a floor jack centered under the rear axle beam? Risks/considerations? Also, what is the best floor jack location in the front (so that I can raise the car & put jack stands under the stock jack pad locations)?
Thanks!
SOLD: 2003 SE 6-speed/HLSD; RSB + FSTB + manly-sounding late-model Honda horns
Previously owned: over 2 dozen cars and three boats over a period of 28 years
Can I raise the rear of my '03 6-spd Maxima with a floor jack centered under the rear axle beam? Risks/considerations? Also, what is the best floor jack location in the front (so that I can raise the car & put jack stands under the stock jack pad locations)?
Thanks!
You should be fine. The beam is one of the jack points specified in the service manual. For the front, there is a little knub on that your jack will fit on.
I need to find the location of O2 sensor, Bank 1, Sensor 1
I've already changed out 2 O2 sensors in the past 3 months, those being Bank 2, sensor 2 and Bank 1, sensor 2
Im just not sure if Bank 1, sensor 1 is Upstream or Downstream
My instincts (yeah I'm a newbie, but I'm 44 and have owned over a dozen cars) tell me that sensor 1 would be the upstream sensor whereas sensor 2 would be the downstream.
Edit - I see that you already got the answer. Sorry if my response was misleading at all.
SOLD: 2003 SE 6-speed/HLSD; RSB + FSTB + manly-sounding late-model Honda horns
Previously owned: over 2 dozen cars and three boats over a period of 28 years
Ok so I took my stock 2002 auto max to the track tonight to see what she'd do in the 1/4 mile...did 5 runs and the best I could pull was a 15.173
that sound pretty normal? I was hoping for like a 14.9 or atleast 14 flat. I did get a lot of tire spin, running Nitto Extreme 450's 225 width. I'll scan in the timeslips if anyone wants to see.
Ok so I took my stock 2002 auto max to the track tonight to see what she'd do in the 1/4 mile...did 5 runs and the best I could pull was a 15.173
that sound pretty normal? I was hoping for like a 14.9 or atleast 14 flat. I did get a lot of tire spin, running Nitto Extreme 450's 225 width. I'll scan in the timeslips if anyone wants to see.
Take a look around here to see what others have done:
Ok so I took my stock 2002 auto max to the track tonight to see what she'd do in the 1/4 mile...did 5 runs and the best I could pull was a 15.173
that sound pretty normal? I was hoping for like a 14.9 or atleast 14 flat. I did get a lot of tire spin, running Nitto Extreme 450's 225 width. I'll scan in the timeslips if anyone wants to see.
There are other variables that will affect your track times, if you didnt know, like humidity, air temp, track temp, and altitude
Question....does anyone know or have a picture of which wire to tap into for the switched power to the auto dim mirror and the vanity light.. im hardwiring my radar detector if that helps. Thanks
There are other variables that will affect your track times, if you didnt know, like humidity, air temp, track temp, and altitude
Not what the difference between track temp and air temp was, but I live in AZ with low humidity and it was about77-80 degrees according to the gauge cluster in my car.
I have looked all over this site, can't get a straight forward answer..or i'm using the wrong terms to express what i'm trying to say.
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE/SE and I believed I hooked up my AE HU just fine.
I purchased the wire harness and color matched them and grounded the unit near the car's computer ( it was bulky and shielded in the center console)
The only thing is ever since the install...all i'm getting is a high pitch sound.
I ran the rca wire from the HU to the AMP on the passenger side of the car....and the remote and power wire on the drivers side.
When I removed my factory HU, it said Clarion underneath...it would have said BOSE if it was right?!? I thought I got the wrong harness but it clearly said 1995 and up for non-bose system. Does the non-bose system in the 2000 Maxima have crossovers or amplifiers that i'm not aware of that could cause this high pitch noise? Would getting the Scoshe OEM Amplifier Adapter make a difference on a non-bose system?
Thank you for your patience in reading this...thanks for any help.
__________________
Drive fast but don't be stupid, wear a seatbelt.
I have looked all over this site, can't get a straight forward answer..or i'm using the wrong terms to express what i'm trying to say.
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE/SE and I believed I hooked up my AE HU just fine.
I purchased the wire harness and color matched them and grounded the unit near the car's computer ( it was bulky and shielded in the center console)
The only thing is ever since the install...all i'm getting is a high pitch sound.
I ran the rca wire from the HU to the AMP on the passenger side of the car....and the remote and power wire on the drivers side.
When I removed my factory HU, it said Clarion underneath...it would have said BOSE if it was right?!? I thought I got the wrong harness but it clearly said 1995 and up for non-bose system. Does the non-bose system in the 2000 Maxima have crossovers or amplifiers that i'm not aware of that could cause this high pitch noise? Would getting the Scoshe OEM Amplifier Adapter make a difference on a non-bose system?
Thank you for your patience in reading this...thanks for any help.
it sounds like you have a bad ground. Try running a ground wire directly to a frame piece behind the dash.
Also, the Bose setup uses a 2 ohm system, while the non-bose is 4 ohm, IIRC...
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
Not trying to be a wise-guy, I just don't think you'll get many responses from the seasoned players on this newbie thread regarding such a topic. It's prolly been discussed. I'm interested in the answers as I am running bone stock too, but feel a 235/45-17 size would yield many more hi-perf tire options. Good luck!
SOLD: 2003 SE 6-speed/HLSD; RSB + FSTB + manly-sounding late-model Honda horns
Previously owned: over 2 dozen cars and three boats over a period of 28 years
Question....does anyone know or have a picture of which wire to tap into for the switched power to the auto dim mirror and the vanity light.. im hardwiring my radar detector if that helps. Thanks
Question....does anyone know or have a picture of which wire to tap into for the switched power to the auto dim mirror and the vanity light.. im hardwiring my radar detector if that helps. Thanks
Good Q - all I found on the FAQs/How-Tos was wiring the detector via running wire under the A-pillar and tapping into 12V somewhere under the dash. I guess no one in that thread had an auto-dim mirror.
I have that mirror, but I live in the Draconian state of Virginia, where the state flagrantly violates the Federal Communications Act of 1935 (or was it 1933?) by prohibiting people in Virginia from receiving police radar signals, so I have no radar detector, nor any hope of ever having one...
SOLD: 2003 SE 6-speed/HLSD; RSB + FSTB + manly-sounding late-model Honda horns
Previously owned: over 2 dozen cars and three boats over a period of 28 years
Good Q - all I found on the FAQs/How-Tos was wiring the detector via running wire under the A-pillar and tapping into 12V somewhere under the dash. I guess no one in that thread had an auto-dim mirror.
I have that mirror, but I live in the Draconian state of Virginia, where the state flagrantly violates the Federal Communications Act of 1935 (or was it 1933?) by prohibiting people in Virginia from receiving police radar signals, so I have no radar detector, nor any hope of ever having one...
I'm happy we don't have them. I'm going 80 on the highway and people are still blowing by me. I always hope those people get tickets
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
Question....does anyone know or have a picture of which wire to tap into for the switched power to the auto dim mirror and the vanity light.. im hardwiring my radar detector if that helps. Thanks
pm soonerfan, he has his radar hardwired and hidden in the sunglass holder. Oh, and he lives in VA (but has Oklahoma tags)
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
ok so i wanna trade my car for a maxima se. question is...what is the difference from a 2000, 2001, 2002 and a 2003 se.
i know some people will say to just jump on a 2003. but i still have a lease on my car and i will be trading it in to nissan so i need to know why the big price difference. like can i jump on a 2001 instead of a 2003. is the body different in all 4 yrs?? the engine?? what makes them so different other than the years.
thanks!
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