5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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honestly (and I know I'm going to get hammered for this), stay away from nissan if you want trouble-free. Nissan parts are just as expensive as BMW parts. In the last month alone, I've spent around $500 on various parts that needed to be fixed and/or replaced. If you want cheap reliability, get a toyota or honda.
George, you're the last person who should be commenting on this kind of stuff. You, who put 170,000 miles on your car in less than 4 years - with the kind of mileage you put on it, it should be no surprise that you when you have to replace alot of things....
Overall my Maxima in its first 100K miles has never left me on the side of the road. Some items have had to be replaced, but I drive hard and autocross too. The things I've had to fix are standard wear items (tie rods, struts, etc). In fact, I'd say the Maxima has had about the same amount of problems in 100K miles as my Honda Accord and Acura Integra had in the same time span.
The Maxima is far more reliable than a BMW, and parts are cheaper George....as long as you know DaveB
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
GB - You had me sort of worried until I saw your examples. (I'd be interested in which of those prices included labor and which you installed yourself.) For the most part, they seem cheaper than BMW 540 prices, annotated below:
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBAUER
103k: transmission. -3k (I have no comparison point)
163k: engine. -3k (I've seen a 10K dealer quote P&L for '99 540 short block)
80k: evap purge valve and canister $180 (I have no comparison point)
90k: coils -about $200 (about $50/ea 4 part for th 540's V8, but rare that ALL would need replacing at once)
170k: speed sensor -$140 (about $200 for a chintzy little sensor part on 540)
80k: main cat -$300 (about $1500 P&L for my 540 OEM replacements, and aftermarket cats usually throw a CEL)
50k: window actuator -$100 (I think the 540's is higher, maybe $150 (Part only). I know they fail all the time on the 540)
and that's just the stuff I thought of in the first 30 seconds....
edit:
O2 sensor at 90k: $180 (Mine were $80 each for the parts but had 4)
170k rotors: got a deal, but should've been $100 (many options, but solid OEM rotors for my 540 run anywhere from $225 to $500 for a set.)
169k: alternator- $400 w/ belts (HAH! My water-cooled alternator that just failed retails for over $600 at the stealer, plus installation labor is $350 to $400 because the coolant must be drained/replaced and lots of stuff to remove for access. In total about a $1000 job at the dealer, maybe $750 at an indy)
........
Oh yeah, what does a Maxima 5G 6-spd clutch replacement usually cost? On my 540, it's about a $2000+ job P&L, because the expensive "dual mass" flywheel cannot be machined and must be replaced:
$450 clutch kit
$700-$750 stupid OEM dual-mass flywheel
$50 sundry hoses
$500 to $700 labor
How do these numbers compare, and how long will the Max's 6-speed clutch typically last?
not many issues you can really check, aside from the fact that the car drives well with no misfires, odd noises, etc.
Some things to notice when test-driving:
- listen for noisy wheel bearings, particularly up front....
- if it has Potenza RE92 tires on it, insist they change some different tires on. Those are DANGEROUS
- if they'll let you take the engine cover off, look at the coils and see if they have a gray dot on them. If so, you're good. If not, tell them you want the "updated" coils.
- check the exhaust flange where the muffler attaches to the b-pipe. Notorious for rusting.
If buying from a dealer, spend the extra $1K and buy the 100,000 extended Nissan Gold warranty. It will pay for itself if you're under 50K miles on the car.
Other than that, just browse the first few pages inthe 5th gen forum and see what problems seem to be more widespread than others.
Help! My cd player stopped worked yesterday. All its doing is clicking. I got the error code cderrFO. I checked the Bose Faq and found nothing. Anybody have a clue as to the problem and how to solve it?
GB - You had me sort of worried until I saw your examples. (I'd be interested in which of those prices included labor and which you installed yourself.) For the most part, they seem cheaper than BMW 540 prices, annotated below:
I do all my own labor, so those are just parts pricing (except the motor and tranny swaps).
Help! My cd player stopped worked yesterday. All its doing is clicking. I got the error code cderrFO. I checked the Bose Faq and found nothing. Anybody have a clue as to the problem and how to solve it?
I saw something on that in the FAQs last night. I think it was related to the disk unit getting too cold with AC on or something like that. Keep looking, and good luck!
How do you remove the trim panels by the doors? Any links to a write-up / howto guide kinda specific to my car?
Anything else I should know before running an amp kit?
Can I run the power wire under my car and up through the trunk? Less interference maybe??
I have a 2001 Maxima and UPS should be here any minute so I can start my install on the 4 Gauge amp kit from KnuKonceptz.com. I bought an in-dash DVD player that needs 6 RCA's ran, both of my amps are digital and I also need to run the cable for the mini head unit for my alpine amp.
How do you remove the trim panels by the doors? Any links to a write-up / howto guide kinda specific to my car?
Anything else I should know before running an amp kit?
Can I run the power wire under my car and up through the trunk? Less interference maybe??
I have a 2001 Maxima and UPS should be here any minute so I can start my install on the 4 Gauge amp kit from KnuKonceptz.com. I bought an in-dash DVD player that needs 6 RCA's ran, both of my amps are digital and I also need to run the cable for the mini head unit for my alpine amp.
I have the service manual and not much help.
If your talking about the trim between the seat and door. It's just pressure clips. Try pulling it straight up, if your worried about your fingers, I guess you could use a screwdriver to pry, but they allways came up w/ no prob for me...
I drilled a hole in my firewall, then ran it along with the RCA and remote wire. I ran it from the radio then above the pedals (don't get them twisted with the pedals) then I ran it under the side trim.(You can pull the back trim up as easy as the front) then I layed the back seats down and ran the wires around them.
Hey but it's your car, do what you want man. No one's gonna see it anyway.
Hey everyone, I posted this in I35, but figured I'd add it here as well, since there's more traffic in the 5th gen.
I'm new here, and am blown away by the amount of info available. It's a great place. I have an 02 I35, and have never had a problem with it until:
2 months ago, my tcs, slip & check engine light lit up. Power was way low, at 2500 rpm, it would just drop. I go to my mechanic, and he says its the MAF. I ask why it would go out at 60k miles, he says they do that, no big deal. Charges me $500 b ucks for the part. ( I checked online and saw similar prices).
Now, today, starts again. I go to autozone and get code P1102. The computer says "MAF within range but less than expected". What does that mean? What could cause the MAF to keep going out? I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow am, and I expect him to fix it again free, just wondering if anyone knows of anything he may have done wrong or if this is some sort of known problem.
So my SE is deciding to do another weird thing. Driving home from class and in an instant 3 lights in my dash turned on. The Traction Control, Slip, and ABS just turned on. After consulting with some friends and what not, i was told to check my brake fluid. It was a tad low and upon filling it, they turned off...
So im on my way to class and they turned on AGAIN. If i leave in the on position for a couple seconds, then start the car, sometimes they shut off. But for now, they are on and im considering to go to the Nissan if not told otherwise?
Thats one thing. Next is that the stock Bose 10" sub keeps phasing in and out. It gets really annoying when a good song is on and the sub just keeps phasing in and out. Any suggestions?
I saw something on that in the FAQs last night. I think it was related to the disk unit getting too cold with AC on or something like that. Keep looking, and good luck!
I've been reading through the forums looking for anything that might be related to what I need help with, but didn't see anything. And, since I can't even *search* the forums as a new member, I see no other way to hopefully get some help.
Here goes...
My wife has an 02 SE with about 55k on it. She drives mostly around town, and we always take my vehicle for trips. I almost never drive her car any more, so I have to rely on her telling me when something isn't right.
Out of the blue, a couple of days ago, she told me that she was having a problem with the driver's window. It turns out that the problem is that the window auto-reverses when it should be "closed". Basically, it goes all the way up, then comes down about half-way. I know that this pretty much means that something is pinching/binding somewhere, but I'm looking for any thoughts on how to at least start a troubleshooting process for it.
I was wondering what the best y pipe brand is for an 02 Max and if there is anything i need to be concerned about as far as oxygen censors and ecu reset after installation.
BTW I also have the same problem as mebur**** with my passenger window.
I was wondering what the best y pipe brand is for an 02 Max and if there is anything i need to be concerned about as far as oxygen censors and ecu reset after installation.
BTW I also have the same problem as mebur**** with my passenger window.
Y-pipes are essentially a waste for a 2002-2003. Save for headers.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
I am getting the dread P1320 but there are no other codes with it that I can extract using my OBD tool (BR-3 interface, hooks up to laptop). After doing some research on this forum, I thought I will have to replace all 6 coils as they are still the original on my 2000. But the FSM says that P1320 without any other codes could be bunch of things and
I really need Consult tool.
Cam somebody verify that since I am still running with the original coils, I really need to replace them? When the code comes on, I definitely feel the miss the instant it happens. I wish there was a way to pinpoint the specific failing coil so that I don't have to buy 6 of them.
For any other noobs out there. An amp kit is easy to install. I ran my power cable under my car, used about 20 zipties to secure it under my car next to 4/5 lines that went all the way back. Went up through the trunk infront of the spare tire and sealed the hole.
Its easy as pie then to run the cables through... for me I had to run 6 RCA's, remote wire, alpine remote control cable, speaker cables etc. Lots of work but the end result is well worth it.
For any other noobs out there. An amp kit is easy to install. I ran my power cable under my car, used about 20 zipties to secure it under my car next to 4/5 lines that went all the way back.
lol. just for the record, this is NOT a good idea.
also, would a mod edit the initial post and make sure the n00bs post the year/make/model, with a new profile it isnt always obvious.
__________________ '97 S-10: V8 swap Current status: Its Alive!!! '02 Maxima: Grocery Getter 5000 '91 Maxima: Bone Stock Beater '04 Ecotec: Engine on a Stand, Needs a Home
Here is the deal. I put on new(er) 2002-2003 stock 17inch rims and tires. Everything went smooth until I backed out and heard this...tink tink tink sound. I noticed these when I went to install but didin't think anything of it. Can I mod them, remove it, bend them? My drivers-side isn't the one making the noise, its the passenger-side (i think).
Orignally I had the ugly 16 inch rims that the rim covered where this piece is tapping on my new 6 spokes...when the wheel spins.
Hey everyone, I posted this in I35, but figured I'd add it here as well, since there's more traffic in the 5th gen.
I'm new here, and am blown away by the amount of info available. It's a great place. I have an 02 I35, and have never had a problem with it until:
2 months ago, my tcs, slip & check engine light lit up. Power was way low, at 2500 rpm, it would just drop. I go to my mechanic, and he says its the MAF. I ask why it would go out at 60k miles, he says they do that, no big deal. Charges me $500 b ucks for the part. ( I checked online and saw similar prices).
Now, today, starts again. I go to autozone and get code P1102. The computer says "MAF within range but less than expected". What does that mean? What could cause the MAF to keep going out? I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow am, and I expect him to fix it again free, just wondering if anyone knows of anything he may have done wrong or if this is some sort of known problem.
Thanks in advance.
There could be another reason your MAFs are getting damaged....the 5.5 gen MAFs are notoriously weak. Make doubly sure first that your intake assembly (stock or aftermarket?) is secured, make sure the MAF wiring is in good shape, MAF plug is clean and not grimy, etc. Vibrations and debris can hurt MAF performance....
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
I am getting the dread P1320 but there are no other codes with it that I can extract using my OBD tool (BR-3 interface, hooks up to laptop). After doing some research on this forum, I thought I will have to replace all 6 coils as they are still the original on my 2000. But the FSM says that P1320 without any other codes could be bunch of things and
I really need Consult tool.
Cam somebody verify that since I am still running with the original coils, I really need to replace them? When the code comes on, I definitely feel the miss the instant it happens. I wish there was a way to pinpoint the specific failing coil so that I don't have to buy 6 of them.
Here is the deal. I put on new(er) 2002-2003 stock 17inch rims and tires. Everything went smooth until I backed out and heard this...tink tink tink sound. I noticed these when I went to install but didin't think anything of it. Can I mod them, remove it, bend them? My drivers-side isn't the one making the noise, its the passenger-side (i think).
Orignally I had the ugly 16 inch rims that the rim covered where this piece is tapping on my new 6 spokes...when the wheel spins.
That is one of the spring clips that puts outward pressure on the pads so they don't rub the rotors when you're not braking. When pads are installed, the little metal piece circled should go INSIDE of the little tab/loop on the pad itself. Look closely and you'll see what I mean.
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
I was wondering if there is a rev limiter or a fuel cutoff in the fifth gen maxima. the red line is a 6500 but the rev limiter or fuel cutoff, if there is one, must be above that. anyone know?
I was wondering if there is a rev limiter or a fuel cutoff in the fifth gen maxima. the red line is a 6500 but the rev limiter or fuel cutoff, if there is one, must be above that. anyone know?
yes, you will hit the rev limiter about 200rpm over redline.
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
yes, you will hit the rev limiter about 200rpm over redline.
Really? I thought i got it to almost 7k one time accidentally(02 SE Max). Why would it be over the redline in the first place? thanks for the info too.
Really? I thought i got it to almost 7k one time accidentally(02 SE Max). Why would it be over the redline in the first place? thanks for the info too.
It might be different on the 02, or your tach might be out of calibration. I'm only speaking to my personal experiences with an 00...
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
that doesn't sound tire-related. Did the noise appear immediately after replacing the tires? Did they do any other work on the car?
Check a couple of things:
1. make sure the lug nuts are torqued to spec!!!! also make sure the wheel is seated on the hub center bore.
2. check that the spring is seated correctly on the lower perch.
3. make sure the brake line is attached correctly to the strut
Clarifying questions:
a) noise - have someone drive your car in a parking lot slowly and stand near it and see if you can pinpoint where in the suspension the sound is (top, bottom)
b) are your wheels stock wheels or aftermarket?
c) what else in the suspension is aftermarket, if anything?
Hey thx for the reply, I found out that the axle nut was loose! Pep Boy mechanics are idiots, just proved my point when I took it back to have them look at it and they told me everything looked ok, meaning they didnt look at a damn thing. Had a local shop tightening it up for me since I didnt have the tools. Pep Boys
Is there anyone in CT w/ headers installed that attempted to go thru the new emissions / inspection? I am hoping that, because I will still have the main cat and it passes the sniff test, I won't have a problem. Hopefully.
Is there anyone in CT w/ headers installed that attempted to go thru the new emissions / inspection? I am hoping that, because I will still have the main cat and it passes the sniff test, I won't have a problem. Hopefully.
You'd have better luck in the regional forums....
__________________ Sold: 2000 Maxima SE - PR Intake - Frankencar CB - Truax SFCs - Wilwoods - Eibachs - Blehm LTB - Cattman Ypipe
Stillen RSB - RSTB - FSTB - ES Bushes - G wheels - Raxles - Mach1 lip - Illuminas - and plenty more
Hi there, been doing searches and following this thread for a bit and haven't found any real answers.. I have a Maxima '01 SE where the Check Engine, ABS, TCS and SLIP lights are constantly on, any ideas on what might causing this? I did see a post in this thread where the brake fluid was topped off and I tried that to no success. Help!
Linear Mode
