efanatic

I live on the outerbanks too! I didnt have to get my car inspected when I got my plates the other day. I just got the title and went to the DMV on monday. PM me and I might be able to help you with your inspection.

EDIT WEll 4/1 is today??? Crap. I would have let you swap out to my rear strut and light for your inspection if I had more notice

efanatic

Forgot to ask. Where did you get your inspection? I have never had anyone look at my struts before.

My last inspection on my 1991 Sonoma(about 6 months ago) was the guy walked around my truck ask if everything worked and checked the lights, Thats it!

Nelsito65

That stroke as odd too. I would assume that he got rejected for the non-working top mount stop light only. The strut (or shock) issue could've been just a comment from the inspector.

efanatic

If its just the light, I am at home today and Will let you use mine!!!!!

islandguy

Hey I wonder if someone could point me in the correct direction. I have a 02 SE 6sp which I purchased used in Dec 09 with 116K miles on it now. Since then I had both o2 sensors, variable valve timing solenoid and the CTS replaced. Everything runs fine except when I start the car warm, without my foot on the gas the car will sputter and most times die. I have no problem starting the car cold. I also feel some hesitation. Its not as peppy as it was when I got it just 3 months ago. While having the timing solenoid replaced I mentioned the hesitation to the mechanic and he cleaned the MAF. that helped with the hesitation for a little bit. As far as fuel usage, I have not seen any change, I'm still getting about 22 mpg. Spark plugs are original as far as I know. Should be changed soon. Any suggestions whats going on? What to check/test first?

Thanks
J

VQP0WER

Disconnect your MAF and see how it idles. If it idles alright, you need to replace your MAF. MAF's are very sensative and "cleaning" them is often times a bad thing on our cars.

twerked

haha, holy crap, i didn't even see that. i'll pm you then, but yeah, supposed to be done by 4/1. which is stupid, because i transferred the title tuesday around 430 pm, which by my count, 3 days is 4/2. but i guess not to the state. bastards. i think it's because the inspection wasn't in the past 90 days..

islandguy

Hey thanks Mark. I'll definitely try that. If I do need to replace it, what do you think of an aftermarket brand maf? I been looking around for one and the OEM ones are so expensive. I did find a MAF for $180 from autobarn.

http://www.autobarn.net/sophioitem.html?mode=SS&keyword1=mass_air_flow_sen sor

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

Ever since my Max came off the truck from the west coast there has been a droning sound coming from under the car. The noise is speed-dependent, but does not depend on engine rpms (turning o/d off and on does not change it), and sounds like the car is running on 4x4 mud tires.

Stealership said they can't find anything, that it's tire noise, although six days prior (on the west coast) the noise was not there. The car passed inspection, FWIW. They say bearings and axles are okay at all four wheels, although they missed a seized rear caliper .

At times one can sense a very slight vibration when it peaks at 30-40 mph. The noise fades into the background at about 60 mph.

I put on my summer wheels and tires last week. The noise is still there. I am going to raise the car on 4 jack stands and look for the noise on Saturday, since this is driving me nuts.

Has anyone had this? Can this be anything other than a bearing, CV joint, dragging brake, or differential?

Gemner

iTrader: (4)

there really doesnt seem to be any info out there about advancing timing with the EB, anybody have a link or anything to some info? I imagine you just pull fuel with the MAF signal and add it with the injector pulse width, putting the ECU into that higher timing cell, similar to advancing with bigger injectors and a VAFC. Anybody know anything about this?

kenny808

I am having a similar problem my car stalls whenever I put it into d or r.It also starts out missing and after about 5 minutes of driving the miss goes away please help..I also get a 1320 code but I check my coils and when I pull them off the plug I can hear it sparking thats all the coils so what should I check next?

islandguy

As mentioned a couple threads back, I bought a used 02 SE 6sp with 116K miles on it. The car runs good, but not at its potential. There are a few things that need attetion all at once. a) spark plugs (would like to have a NWP manifold spacer installed at the same time) b) front tires c) front struts are leaking (so says my mechanic) and d) the inevitable surprise problem that may pop up.
I don't do the work myself so I can't afford to do this all at once. What order should I do it in knowing the car, at the moment, is driving fine?

Thanks guys
J

grey2kmax

Homeyclaus, I had a noise with similar characteristics. Groan, Drone and Howl.
At inspection, I needed to have the right front axle replaced. The split shaft bearing had a "hitch" in it and my mechanic isolated the problem to the split shaft bearing. he also found that the bolts that attach the bearing bracket to the Engine casting were backing / stripping themselves out! Just in time repair. He asked me if I also wanted to replace the right rear wheel bearing to get rid of the groaning noise. In your case I'd say it was a wheel bearing but you say it wasn't noticeable six days earlier. Just jack up the right rear, pull the wheel and tire, release the emergency brake. Have a beer, and rotate the hub slowly. A bad bearing ought to reveal itself during slow rotation of the hub. It would seem to be something the Stealer would notice, huh????

homeyclaus

iTrader: (1)

They certainly should notice if you pay them the diagnostic to look for it. uppet: Now of course the coverage for "damage done during transport" time has expired. Shame on me for believing them, I really should know better.

Thanks for sharing your cause list - I'll be sure to check them.

Kyle02SE

I have an 02 Maxima SE and I recently got Angel Eye headlights from custommaxima.com. But the harness they have only fits on 03 and up. So instead of splicing the wires I was just going to switch out the bulbs. But how do I get the Xenon light assembly out of the stock headlight and into the angel eyes?

tbail25

Ok, this is going to be long, and I've done my searching and gotten so many different answers, but one thing that kept popping up were coils. Here's the deal.
I have a 2000 GLE with 87,500mi on it. Since we got it, usually during warmer weather, the car will sometimes rev up when you put it in park. It can go up to 4,000 RPM before you have to kill it. The air bag light came on about 6 months ago, and we trouble shot it, and shut it off about 3 weeks ago using the door method & service manual. Then my SES light came on, and I went and got that looked at. The codes I was given was P140 & P141. We've been waiting for warmer weather to put the car up and take care of the o2 sensor. Then the TCS/SLIP lights came on and stayed on. I didn't notice any issues because of that. Yesterday while I was driving, I noticed after I got gas, I turned on the car, and while in park, it'd rev to 2,000rpm, drop down to 1,000, then jump right back up in a very quick succession. I shut it off, restarted it, and went on my way. I did notice that it was starting to rev up again, so I went home, not really thinking anything of it. Today we were driving on the interstate, and some idiot in front of us decided to hit a big chunk of rubber(about 3x4) at full bore, kicked it up, and we tried to swerve, but it flew in front of us, and made a loud noise as it hit the undercarriage. We then got to our appointment, let the car sit for about 45 minutes, and then went to leave. The car was now shuddering and shaking whenever idling or at a low speed. It didn't completely go away with a higher speed, but it was enough for us to make it to the repair shop. We're not sure what the heck is going on with the car, as we've never had any issues with it, and we've owned it for 4 years/20k mi. Any ideas?

Z-Powered

The 02-03 models are the same... As far as I know.

bigmike321321

ok im new to the maxima seen i would like to say hi. my question is i have a 2000 max and i found a 2002 max at the junk yard with a steering wheel that has the radio controls on it my question is will it plug right in tho my 2000 max. if it maxes a difference my max has bose and the one at the yard does not.

efanatic

Ok I asked on here a few pages back about the performance of my max. I had used a window mounted meter to test my 0-60mph times. They ranged from 8.1 to 8.4 at my worst. My 1/4 mile was 16.2. I even got smoked by a 02 sentra ser. I thought there was something wrong with my max. Well I found out today that its running at like new performance. A 2K max was just that slow . This was a test by motor trend



Motor Trend

Engine and Transmission:3.0 V-6/4A slalom 61.00 mph 60-0 braking 131.00 ft. 1/4 mile 16.20 sec. 0-60 8.10 sec. 0-70 10.40 sec. skidpad 0.81 g. 0-50 6.10 sec.Issue
Issue date was late 99. I missed that when I copied it

efanatic

Will a steering wheel from a 2002 fit on a 2000. The one on my car isnt very nice. The top has a wear sopt in it(its not the leather one) Well I found a 2002 leather steering wheel that looks to be the same color(I hope its the same color). Will this work??? Its only $40+shipping


Also I have an issue with the drives side window. It always goes up in auto mode and stop 1/2 back down??? I have to flick the window swith up and down and let the window creep up until its at the top or it auto gos back down to a hair over 1/2 way?? Its ver annoying. I have unplugged the battery to see if it would reset or something but it came back in 2 days. Any help???? Do I have to get a new window master control unit?

Nismo215

well...i have ksports lowering springs drops about 1-2 inches(not sure i didn't measure) but my question is, does anyone have these on their max? and also should i just add struts(tokico) to it now since it's a lil bouncy here and there or just get another set of lowering springs and struts?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Autotragics are slow

yigitaytan

Hi,

I took my 2k Maxima(115k, automatic) to a repair shop to get the central and rear mufflers replaced. I bought the parts online and they installed them. There were many leaks on the old original muffler, so I had to get them replaced.

Once they were done replacing it, I took it out for a test drive. The car was quiet and good while it was idling, but when I got on the road, it almost had no power. It would rev up to 5-6k rpm at first gear without much power, but 2nd gear and up, it won't even go above 2500 rpm, and it's like something is holding the car back or something.

Now, the guy at the repair shop is trying to figure out what's causing the problem. He says it's either the MAF or the catalytic converter. He unplugged the MAF, and the car got worse. They ran a backpressure test on the rear converter and it's fine. But they can't run it on the other converters because the O2 sensors are stuck there, they can't get them out. The car ran just fine before getting the muffler replaced, no CEL or anything. I had some hesitation problems, but nothing major.

What do you think the problem could be? I don't want to spend a lot of money, this car has been giving me a lot of problems lately.

comrade_Charlie

I have a 1973 Toyota pickup, planning on doing a vq30dek swap. Was originally planning on doing just a vq30de swap, but I see the dek has around 220hp over the 190 from the regular de...

I see that I can get a dek engine for 500 and the de engine is 450 from a local junkyard, both low miles.

What do I need differently I was just going to get a DE ecu and all from a 96 in the junkyard, but do I need a ecu from a 2000-2001 maxima now? Same thing about a MAF, or any other little stuff. I have a friend that is going to wire up the harness, dont know if he wants an original one or if he is going to start from scratch he is crazy good at wiring.

Oh and yeah plan on using a 350z six speed, I hear you only need a 28mm throw out bearing spacer for it to work, dont know which starter you use though. Ill push start it.

I used to have 2 maximas, thats why im on here. Any help would be sure apriciated.

Anity

Hey, i want thinking about getting these rims: 18-7.5 Privat Netz Black Wheel/Rims 5x114.3 for my maxima. They have a +45 offset and just wanted to know if these will fit my maxima and what tire size to get maybe 235/40/18? and i will get a drop in the future on tein s-techs or h-techs. Thx!

eminaise

Hello all. Just curious for some insight and/or suggestions. I have an 03 Maxima w/ 60k miles on it. I got a new set of tires (yoko avid 4s), and all the fluid flushed @ 50k. Right afterwards, i noticed vibrations and wobbles around 55mph to 60 mph. Took the car back and they noticed that the wheels weren't round. They rebalanced them. a little better, but not great. next oil change, i let them know that i still experienced the vibrations. they told me that the tires were "out of round" and tried to sell me a new pair. After i let them know that they had just sold me that pair, they RMA'd them and got a new set.
New set better, but not what I’d expect. I mean, my wife’s pathfinder is smoother on the highway. So I took it to another shop. They told me that a hub was “outta spec” so I got a new hub, new (nice) rotors and eliminated that as a possibility. Didn’t work. So I complained about the tires again, thinking that they were the problem again and got a set of continentals (ExtremeContact DWS). The problem is still there, but now it starts at 65mph.
It’s really frustrating to have the vibrations and actually embarrassing to have others in the car with me. Any suggestions? My shop now wants to replace the axle (??) and I’m not sure what to do. ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

LongIslandMax

iTrader: (3)

This is without a doubt a MAF issue. I would go into further detail but a simple search of the word MAF will yield all the information you will need. Do yourself a favor and pm DAVEB and order a new one. IIRC it shouldn't be more than $85 shipped.

efanatic

Any help??? The window is driveing me nuts

On the description of the steering wheel says its an 02 and its gray. My interior is Tan but the wheel is a darkish grayISH color. Would it be the same???? Was there another gray color?

bigmike321321

can any one help me i dont want to pass on this deal if it will work.

efanatic

I would look at the back of your radio and then while you are at the junk yard look to see how it connects in the back of the radio of the 02. Might be worth a shot

twerked

maybe check the guides for the window. i'm not 100% on this, but it's possible that something is causing the window to bind up a little bit, making it think that someones head/arm/body is in the way, so it automatically goes back down. i'm only assuming that these cars would have a feature like that. so maybe just give it a shot?

arcueda

iTrader: (3)

did struts/springs/strut mount/gaskets.....rear suspension is still makeing alot of squeeking and alot of ticking sounds. what else should i consider? the noises are killing me. plz help thanks

Nelsito65

My ticking noises are caused by the new boots as the bottom portion rubs against the shocks. I'm considering wraping some kind of rubber material around that area on the shocks, so it sits between the boot and the shock, but just haven't gotten to it yet. Have someone push down intermittently on the rear of the car while you look at the shocks, as close as you can, and try to pinpoint the source.

arcueda

iTrader: (3)

well i mean i cut the boots according to the stech directions. and it was doing these noinses before i replaced everything, almost think its somwhere else...i just noticed my car squeeks even when i just close my drivers door hard enough

yangk83

where is the pcv valve located on a 5th gen maxima? 2001 AE SE.

Beach Pounder8463

Hello all.. I'm new to the site. I've been doing some research on a head unit install for my car. I've installed H/U in cars in the past but, this time I've run into a problem. I went on to Install Dr website to get the color coding of the wires. Honestly the colors dont match up..... I've installed the h/u but cant figure out the correct wires for the rear door speakers. My front door speakers work fine. I knew I should of brought a wire harness..... I'm stummped, spent a few hrs trying to figure this out. Please Help.....

Nelsito65

You might get better luck posting in the "Audio an Electronics" section of these forums.

zzmmrx0xmzz

does anyone have pictures of a max with the full stillen body lowered on s techs? im still pondering on whether i should get coilovers or s techs. thanks

evalyn

Open your hood and shut the driver's door again. That worked for me, and I replaced the bump stops under the hood. No more squeaky noise.

Nelsito65

...... I'm completely clueless about you comment. Are you sure you quoted the right post?