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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

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Old 07-16-2009, 05:41 PM   #8881
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First of all, thank you for your help ahead of time. I recently purchased a 2000 Max. On the the way home it made a rattling sound. By the time I made it to the garage, a black tube fell out. Can anybody tell me what it is and how important it is to the safety of the car? I am trying to link to an image, hopefully it works. After looking in the engine bay, it looks like part of it connects to a clear plastic container near/below the battery. Thank you again.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:49 PM   #8882
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I have an 02 GLE and have run into the typical problem with the head unit where the driver door speaker cuts out when playing CDs. I've read the ways to fix it but am not particularly handy, so I was more curious what head units were compatible with the stereo to avoid messing up the utility of the steering wheel.

The bigger issue is that the car flooded over night in a flash flood up to the bottom of the seats. Most everything is back to normal, the only leftover problems are a blinking airbag indicator light and the carpets are a little damp and wet (and they smell obviously). I have tried leaving it in the sun, I have tried damprid, but it has been a week and while it has improved it is still a problem. Any ideas? Anything I should look out for? I checked the oil and transmission fluid and they don't show the signs of being watered down.
I'll try to answer some of your questions for you. Sorry about the flood, I know it can really cause a lot of damage. At any rate, if you have not already done so, I would check your speakers in your doors for water damage. From what I have read, each speaker has its own little amp for it. There is a reasonably good video on Youtube showing you how to get the speakers on your Max. I have seen Bose replacement head units on Ebay if you think your unit is bad. The last time I checked it was about 60 or so bucks. I hope that helps.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:54 PM   #8883
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I purchased a 2000 maxima gle. I noticed the trunk light is not on. I replace the bulb but still no light. Can someone tell me which fuse comes to the trunk light? I don't have the fuse panel cover so I can tell what belongs to what.

thanks.

I have the same model. I don't recall which fuse controls the trunk light. I would pick up a fuse tester ( a few dollars ) if you don't already have one and check all of the fuses for the fuse box inside your car below the steering wheel. One the 10 fuses controls (far left and in the middle from top to bottom) the power door locks and interior lights. It shouldn't take longer the five minutes to check all of the fuses, good luck.
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Old 07-16-2009, 10:24 PM   #8884
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Back in the Game!

Used to have a 99' SE Ltd. Needed a pickup, so I traded it in for a Frontier a few years back. Boy did I miss that car! I just got back in the game last weekend. Found and purchased a 2001 20th Anniversary Edition. Wow, do I love this ride.
I don't want to sound like a putz, But I know I will... LOL!
I've never been into the whole Mod scene. What is the best way to go to squeeze the most out of the standard 3.0 power plant without breaking the bank so to speak? I've been doing some searches and so on, but there is so much info out here.... well it's a lot to take in without feeling overwhelmed.
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Old 07-17-2009, 10:14 AM   #8885
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Used to have a 99' SE Ltd. Needed a pickup, so I traded it in for a Frontier a few years back. Boy did I miss that car! I just got back in the game last weekend. Found and purchased a 2001 20th Anniversary Edition. Wow, do I love this ride.
I don't want to sound like a putz, But I know I will... LOL!
I've never been into the whole Mod scene. What is the best way to go to squeeze the most out of the standard 3.0 power plant without breaking the bank so to speak? I've been doing some searches and so on, but there is so much info out here.... well it's a lot to take in without feeling overwhelmed.
Have you done a search to answer your question? I'm pretty sure this question has been asked several times so you probably can find a definitive answer that is all ready in the forum.
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Old 07-17-2009, 03:41 PM   #8886
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Used to have a 99' SE Ltd. Needed a pickup, so I traded it in for a Frontier a few years back. Boy did I miss that car! I just got back in the game last weekend. Found and purchased a 2001 20th Anniversary Edition. Wow, do I love this ride.
I don't want to sound like a putz, But I know I will... LOL!
I've never been into the whole Mod scene. What is the best way to go to squeeze the most out of the standard 3.0 power plant without breaking the bank so to speak? I've been doing some searches and so on, but there is so much info out here.... well it's a lot to take in without feeling overwhelmed.
Glad you joined us. Like already mentioned, there are several things that can be done. Most people start by doing the "GAB mode." It's in the FAQ's. Also, getting a aftermarket Cattman 'Y' pipe will give you some extra power.
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Old 07-18-2009, 12:24 AM   #8887
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I think the info in here is great....but it takes a great deal of searching and not too user friendly in my opinion...I just want to be able to post a new thread or be able ask the member about my car without being soo complex...
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Old 07-18-2009, 12:27 AM   #8888
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I think the info in here is great....but it takes a great deal of searching and not too user friendly in my opinion...I just want to be able to post a new thread or be able ask the member about my car without being soo complex...
Okay?

You can post a thread when you've completed the prerequisites.

If you want to ask your question so badly, why don't you just post it here? That's the entire point of this thread.

And nothing takes a 'great deal' of searching to find, if you search properly the information you need will almost always be within the first few results.

So, your question is?
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Originally Posted by kizzmyazz View Post
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:57 PM   #8889
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My maxima wont start. It cranks, has gas, battery works, but just wont start. Stepping on the gas doesnt do anything. Im thinking its the fuel pump, what does it sound like to yall?
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:59 PM   #8890
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Originally Posted by YoungLee View Post
My maxima wont start. It cranks, has gas, battery works, but just wont start. Stepping on the gas doesnt do anything. Im thinking its the fuel pump, what does it sound like to yall?
Codes?

Checked for spark? Checked for fuel?

Why exactly do you suspect the fuel pump? Does it not prime? Will it not run when you jump the relay? Won't run when you hard wire it?

Is the security light on when cranking/with the key in the on position?

Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car before this happened?

Asking about a starting issue that could be virtually anything without giving virtually any information is rather pointless.
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This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
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Originally Posted by kizzmyazz View Post
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:07 PM   #8891
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Codes?

Checked for spark? Checked for fuel?

Why exactly do you suspect the fuel pump? Does it not prime? Will it not run when you jump the relay? Won't run when you hard wire it?

Is the security light on when cranking/with the key in the on position?

Did you do anything, have anything done, or did anything happen to the car before this happened?

Asking about a starting issue that could be virtually anything without giving virtually any information is rather pointless.
I just bought the car a month ago, have done nothing to it. I havent checked for anything. A coworkers brother who is a mechanic popped the hood, listened to it and said its the fuel pump. He could be wrong. Its virtually frustrating when Im already virtually wanting to strangle the dealer I bought it from

I do have a bumper to bumper warranty but I dont know if itd cover it
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:09 PM   #8892
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Originally Posted by YoungLee View Post
I just bought the car a month ago, have done nothing to it. I havent checked for anything. A coworkers brother who is a mechanic popped the hood, listened to it and said its the fuel pump. He could be wrong. Its virtually frustrating when Im already virtually wanting to strangle the dealer I bought it from

I do have a bumper to bumper warranty but I dont know if itd cover it
Without you doing any sort of diagnostics at all (not even anything as simple as looking at an LED), whether by inability or refusal, then the best we can say is this: 'it could be virtually ANYTHING'.
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ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:13 PM   #8893
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Without you doing any sort of diagnostics at all (not even anything as simple as looking at an LED), whether by inability or refusal, then the best we can say is this: 'it could be virtually ANYTHING'.
Actually the security light was on and I noticed it was still on when I was outside of my car locking it up.
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Old 07-18-2009, 11:15 PM   #8894
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Actually the security light was on and I noticed it was still on when I was outside of my car locking it up.
Again, is it on while the key is on the on position, or while cranking?

The behavior of the light otherwise is completely irrelevant.
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This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
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ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-19-2009, 08:02 PM   #8895
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I dont remember. I have a bumper to bumper warranty which will hopefully cover it.

After that is taken care of, I am planning on doing some performance mods. This is my first car, and I dont have much knowledge on tuning, other than turbochargers, catbacks and cold air intake. Can anyone shed some knowledge on where I should start? I want some hp gains! Its an automatic if that matters.
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Old 07-19-2009, 08:19 PM   #8896
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Can anyone shed some knowledge on where I should start? I want some hp gains! Its an automatic if that matters.
Have you searched?

The question has been covered many times in this very thread alone, much less all over the 5th/5.5 subforum.

Long story short, headers/exhaust gain the most power, intakes aren't nearly as useful.

If you want massive power, you're not going to get it, not NA. Turbo, nitrous, blower, but not NA.
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This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
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Originally Posted by kizzmyazz View Post
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-19-2009, 08:47 PM   #8897
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Have you searched?

The question has been covered many times in this very thread alone, much less all over the 5th/5.5 subforum.

Long story short, headers/exhaust gain the most power, intakes aren't nearly as useful.

If you want massive power, you're not going to get it, not NA. Turbo, nitrous, blower, but not NA.
I have searched with no success. A catback is going to be my first mod. I want to turbo, but with 145000 miles and still paying, Im assuming the turbo would just end the engines life sooner. But what do I know? Is it possible to get a turbo for under 1500? Id be happy with 300 hp.
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:32 PM   #8898
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is any1 looking to sell there stock 03....hit me up asap
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:13 PM   #8899
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is any1 looking to sell there stock 03....hit me up asap
Wrong forum...
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:48 PM   #8900
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Headlight turning on and off problem

I have a 2001 Maxima GLE. For the past few weeks my left highbeam light does not work, I have changed it with a new bulb and still doesnt work. ALso at the same time, whenever my battery light indicator flashes / flickers on the low beam headlights just shuts off to up to a few minutes, comes back on and battery light flickers on again and the headlights just turns off.

Does anyone have the same problem? and what possible solutions
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:53 PM   #8901
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Have you searched?

The question has been covered many times in this very thread alone, much less all over the 5th/5.5 subforum.

Long story short, headers/exhaust gain the most power, intakes aren't nearly as useful.

If you want massive power, you're not going to get it, not NA. Turbo, nitrous, blower, but not NA.
The security light blinks. And when the key is in the on position the security light stays on,
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:00 PM   #8902
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The security light blinks. And when the key is in the on position the security light stays on,


The blinking with the key not in the ON position is normal.

Either the ECU lost the key's programming, or it's in lock mode.

Try inserting the key, turning it to ON, waiting 5 seconds. Then turn the key off. Do that sequence two more times, then see if the light still stays on with the key in the ON position.

If so, time for a trip to the dealer.
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ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:37 AM   #8903
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Wrong forum...
lol...i just noticed that...im clearly new at this....but doesn't seem to hard
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:27 AM   #8904
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I have a 2001 Maxima GLE. For the past few weeks my left highbeam light does not work, I have changed it with a new bulb and still doesnt work. ALso at the same time, whenever my battery light indicator flashes / flickers on the low beam headlights just shuts off to up to a few minutes, comes back on and battery light flickers on again and the headlights just turns off.

Does anyone have the same problem? and what possible solutions
I couldn't tell you specifically what the problem is but I'd check and or replace if necessary the fuses, relays, bulbs, and headlight wiring in that order.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:23 AM   #8905
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Used to have a 99' SE Ltd. Needed a pickup, so I traded it in for a Frontier a few years back. Boy did I miss that car! I just got back in the game last weekend. Found and purchased a 2001 20th Anniversary Edition. Wow, do I love this ride.
I don't want to sound like a putz, But I know I will... LOL!
I've never been into the whole Mod scene. What is the best way to go to squeeze the most out of the standard 3.0 power plant without breaking the bank so to speak? I've been doing some searches and so on, but there is so much info out here.... well it's a lot to take in without feeling overwhelmed.
The best thing to do on FWD VQs is headers/tuning. A Y-pipe will help a lot but if you replace the manifolds with a header/Y-pipe combo you'll get more power. I got a set for my AE, along with a test-pipe and cat-back and I love it.

As far as tuning goes, you'll want this to get more power from you car since headers tend to make Maximas run on the rich side. You can get a VAFC which will do basic air/fuel ratio correction for around $100. You'll also need a wideband O2 to tell you you exact AFRs. A new Innovate LC-1 goes for around $180 on eBay.

I have an E-manage Ultimate which is a little more expensive (fuel and timing control along with 2step rev limiter, etc) but there are some 3.0s on the board that are known to get lots of power out of the E-manage.

Intakes don't really do much. I have a JWT Popcharger on my car and it's just there for the sound. Stock intake should be good for about 250whp, and honestly if you want it to be louder you can dremel some holes in the airbox (GAB = ghetto airbox) and it'll make cool growly noises for you.

If your car is a stickshift I recommend looking at getting a lightweight flywheel, I just did it when I had to replace the clutch. The car revs up a bit quicker and is more responsive.

For the most bang for your buck, save your money and get a full exhaust. This will improve sound and performance noticeably. Tuning will help a lot after that.
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:29 PM   #8906
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First of all, thank you for your help ahead of time. I recently purchased a 2000 Max. On the the way home it made a rattling sound. By the time I made it to the garage, a black tube fell out. Can anybody tell me what it is and how important it is to the safety of the car? I am trying to link to an image, hopefully it works. After looking in the engine bay, it looks like part of it connects to a clear plastic container near/below the battery. Thank you again.
That is part of the air intake system. There is no safety issues unless you're driving deep water. This is the down spout that runs down from the tube that runs from the chute and ducting in the front of the car to the air cleaner. This thing fits loosely over time because the foam around the connections wears out. I went to the hardware store and bought adhesive foam weather stripping to replace the worn out foam. Now it fits snug and doesn't rattle.

The system is designed to allow typical amounts of moisture and any other debris that is dranw in through the chute in the front of the car to fall into the downspout and into the container I believe. If the down spout isn't connected to the container I'm guessing there may be a greater possibility but usually unlikely possiblity to suck water or other debris that gets splashed or thrown up underneath the car into the engine bay into the air cleaner, throttle body and etc.

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Old 07-21-2009, 08:35 PM   #8907
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Hey guys, I've got an 01' i30, With a couple problems, but mainly i'm working on my tail lights. I recently tinted them with VHT Black spray tint, I did fairly well if i'd say so myself on the coating and "even-ness" But i got pulled over recently, and to avoid more conflict with the 5O , i want to remove the spray tint, I read around about it, and tried Nail polish remover.. It worked okay.. sorta.. failed.., but when i started on the top part of the tail light, the paint dripped off onto my rear bumper, and its really hard to get it off, and i dont want to mess up my paint, or over pay some shop to do it.. I've already ordered nice, newer tail lights with LED's and such, but If i can fix my old ones, i'd really like that too, Here's some pics.

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/SSPX0070.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/SSPX0072.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...9/SSPX0071.jpg

Just asking for opinions on an inexpensive way to fix this, I'd like to do the work myself =D
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Old 07-23-2009, 01:32 PM   #8908
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OK I've got a 2000 Max SE with the factory BOSE sound system. I'm trying to figure if there's a way to make the cassette tape deck reverse and play the other side of the tape. I have one of those mp3 player cassette adapters and the radio is playing the wrong side (no sound ) so FF or Rew to the end of the tape isn't an option

Thanks ahead of time!
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:19 PM   #8909
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OK I've got a 2000 Max SE with the factory BOSE sound system. I'm trying to figure if there's a way to make the cassette tape deck reverse and play the other side of the tape. I have one of those mp3 player cassette adapters and the radio is playing the wrong side (no sound ) so FF or Rew to the end of the tape isn't an option

Thanks ahead of time!
WTF is a cassette player? J/K. You should be able to pop the top off tape and reverse the direction of the wire.
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:45 PM   #8910
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Hey guys,

Have a bit of a problem with a 2001 I30t (I know there's a separate forum for the Infiniti, but I figured there might be a little more experience with the motor here).

A couple of months ago I noticed that my car had absolutely abysmal acceleration at higher RPM's. I think I first noticed it merging onto the highway, needing extra speed, and realizing as I kept pushing the pedal further and further down that something was definitely wrong. I'm flooring it at ~50 mph, the car jumps up to 4000-4500 RPM and acceleration drops off the next to nothing.

This behavior has persisted--at lower speeds it isn't as noticeable, but anytime I apply over 70% throttle or so, the car's RPMs jump up to 4000+ RPM but acceleration is barely existant. At higher speeds (50+) I can floor it and gain 2mph over 10 seconds. I've taken it to a shop, replaced all fluids/air cleaner, spark plugs, etc, nothing comes up on the diagnostic computer as wrong.

Performance is about what it should be in every other condition except when I'm giving it ~70%+ throttle, at which point it's next to nothing. Someone mentioned that it could be a stopped up catalytic converter, but I tested the vacuum pressure at low and high RPM's and it was fine.

Anyone else have a problem like this or have any idea what might be causing it?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Andrew C
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:53 PM   #8911
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Im just throwing this out there..but maybe your tranny is Slipping!
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:55 PM   #8912
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An obvious consideration...

But I have taken it to 2 mechanics, surely one of them (most likely both) would have been able to figure that out? They both said trans. was fine.
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Old 07-23-2009, 04:58 PM   #8913
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anyone have stock rims for sale?
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:09 AM   #8914
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OK I've got a 2000 Max SE with the factory BOSE sound system. I'm trying to figure if there's a way to make the cassette tape deck reverse and play the other side of the tape. I have one of those mp3 player cassette adapters and the radio is playing the wrong side (no sound ) so FF or Rew to the end of the tape isn't an option

Thanks ahead of time!
On the left side of the cassette slot there are 6 buttons numbered from 1 to 6 along with symbols and letters. Hit the botton that has the #3 and the the letters "PROG" on it. That's the one used to reverse the playing side of the cassette.
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:59 AM   #8915
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Hey, I own a 2000 Nissan Max SE. The other day I drove to work (2 hour drive one way) and I usually get there early and sleep for 30 minutes or so. I pulled into the parking lot and fell asleep. The car was running because I had the heat on and it was cold. I slept for about 30 minutes and woke up to an explosion. Water shot out the grill and all in the engine bay. lol I thought the engine blew. Does anyone know what would cause this to happen? It did it at idle. My guesses are the radiator got clogged, the fans never kicked on, or someone strapped C4 to it. Pic below (top of radiator).

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Old 07-24-2009, 03:26 PM   #8916
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Your radiator cap failed. Your cap is supposed to open up to relieve pressure.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:52 PM   #8917
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The blinking with the key not in the ON position is normal.

Either the ECU lost the key's programming, or it's in lock mode.

Try inserting the key, turning it to ON, waiting 5 seconds. Then turn the key off. Do that sequence two more times, then see if the light still stays on with the key in the ON position.

If so, time for a trip to the dealer.
I needed a new key
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:54 PM   #8918
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I needed a new key
So the reprogramming procedure didn't take?
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ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:29 PM   #8919
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Your radiator cap failed. Your cap is supposed to open up to relieve pressure.

I forgot all about that... What would cause it to fail and how can I prevent this from happening on the new radiator?
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Old 07-24-2009, 09:41 PM   #8920
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So the reprogramming procedure didn't take?
What, that sequence you posted? Unfortunately not. When I bought the car, the key was somewhat deformed, looked like someone tried melting it. It turns out the chip fell out of the hole on the key. 138 for a new reprogrammed key. The used lot I bought it from didnt contribute. Its considered electrical so I might be able to fight on my warranty.
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