5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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the dealer told me i need a new wiring harness wut does that mean???
That means you need a new wiring harness. Can you provide the color of your car so we all know at least that detail and figure out what you are talking about?
Hi. I have a 2002 SE with 95k on it. I have noticed over the last several months there is a rattle at start-up. Not every time, and seemingly only when the engine was not warmed up. Add to that recently it has begun to ping at acceleration. I use the highest octane available here, which is 92.
I spoke to the dealer briefly who told me that since it's pinging, I must need a whole new timing chain and water pump, which labor alone was going to cost $1200. I have read about the tensioners and guides and wondering if that is more likely the problem, and if so, what sort of labor costs might be involved in that? The dealer told me 12.7 hours to do the chain. I am not having any other issues with the car... performance seems ok, gas mileage is still good. Is the only way to diagnose this problem to go in the engine or are there codes that will show up?
I love my Max but the quote seemed really steep! 95,000 miles doesn't seem like a lot on these engines but I am worried about sinking that much money and then a bunch of other parts wear out too!
My 01 Maxima SE recently did not pass inspection, because of a few things, but most importantly because it is rusting in multiple areas underneath. (Below passenger, behind rear wheels, under the radiator) The advice I have been given was to move on - 'it's not worth repairing'. To somebody else perhaps it would be.
Assuming I go that route, what is the best way to go about selling this thing to make the most of it? Where, and to whom? In addition, does anybody have a ballpark of what I should be looking to get for it?
It's green, got 110k, been through a couple of fender benders and subsequent repairs so it has relatively new hood, front and rear bumpers... just put all new coils in it, Yokohamas are about a year old and in good shape. Needs exhaust, engine seems fine.
Whatever I do I need to figure it out fast!! Thanks in advance.
Hi. I have a 2002 SE with 95k on it. I have noticed over the last several months there is a rattle at start-up. Not every time, and seemingly only when the engine was not warmed up. Add to that recently it has begun to ping at acceleration. I use the highest octane available here, which is 92.
I spoke to the dealer briefly who told me that since it's pinging, I must need a whole new timing chain and water pump, which labor alone was going to cost $1200. I have read about the tensioners and guides and wondering if that is more likely the problem, and if so, what sort of labor costs might be involved in that? The dealer told me 12.7 hours to do the chain. I am not having any other issues with the car... performance seems ok, gas mileage is still good. Is the only way to diagnose this problem to go in the engine or are there codes that will show up?
I love my Max but the quote seemed really steep! 95,000 miles doesn't seem like a lot on these engines but I am worried about sinking that much money and then a bunch of other parts wear out too!
Thanks so much.
Timing chains rarely ever need to be replaced during the life of the engine.You need to get a second opinion someplace else.Make sure your oil levels are ok since its a 3.5. Some people have oil burning issues.Whats the deal with the water pump? Overheating?..Leaking?
Timing chains rarely ever need to be replaced during the life of the engine.You need to get a second opinion someplace else.Make sure your oil levels are ok since its a 3.5. Some people have oil burning issues.Whats the deal with the water pump? Overheating?..Leaking?
Strangely there is nothing wrong with the water pump that I am aware of. The dealer tried to tell me that since it's an import, they have to change the pump with all the timing components. I definitely need a second opinion.
Except for the rattle at cold start, and the pinging, the car is running strong. I have noticed no change in power, the MPGs are good, it starts fine. I checked the oil level and it was smack in the middle but I will keep my eyes on it. It has no leaks that I know of, but it would be great if it's the oil level causing the issue and not something worse. I love my Max!
My 01 Maxima SE recently did not pass inspection, because of a few things, but most importantly because it is rusting in multiple areas underneath. (Below passenger, behind rear wheels, under the radiator) The advice I have been given was to move on - 'it's not worth repairing'. To somebody else perhaps it would be.
Assuming I go that route, what is the best way to go about selling this thing to make the most of it? Where, and to whom? In addition, does anybody have a ballpark of what I should be looking to get for it?
It's green, got 110k, been through a couple of fender benders and subsequent repairs so it has relatively new hood, front and rear bumpers... just put all new coils in it, Yokohamas are about a year old and in good shape. Needs exhaust, engine seems fine.
Whatever I do I need to figure it out fast!! Thanks in advance.
It's hard to impossible to say what you should get for the car because I can't tell what the condition of the car is inside and out. I also don't know the extent of the damage to the car. You should first find out what the car would be worth if it was in good condition. You can do this on a number of web sites like Edmunds or Kelly Blue Book. Secondly, deduct the estimated cost of the repairs from the price of the car as if it were in good condition. That will give you what the car could legitimately be sold for in its current condition. You might get a little less since it it's been in a couple of accidents. That will be dependent upon the extent of the previous accidents. You could post it on this site, Craigslist or others sites as sold as is if you want to sell the whole the car. You could part it out and possibly get more. That means more work and time. Or you could find another Maxima that needs all of the parts that your current car has and transfer the parts to the second car. For example if you can find a Maxima that has a blown engine or transmission that is being sold cheap, you can buy it and have the engine or transmission out of your current car put into the second car.
Hey guys, got a small question here. im trying to figure out the differences between the climate control panels in the linked photos. one is digital, the other one is not. i bought a 02 SE 6 spd with the analog (non-digital display) controls (Bottom link). are the differences based on years or models? are they compatible with each other if i want to swap to the digital display one. thanks. Jay
I have a problem where my passenger side window keeps auto reversing when I'm trying to close it. Do you think the motor is going, the glass is moving freely as far as I can see.
Hey guys, got a small question here. im trying to figure out the differences between the climate control panels in the linked photos. one is digital, the other one is not. i bought a 02 SE 6 spd with the analog (non-digital display) controls (Bottom link). are the differences based on years or models? are they compatible with each other if i want to swap to the digital display one. thanks. Jay
Good question. I looked in the service manual, and the digital has the "AUTO" climate control option, which the manual (analog) version does not. This digital/auto display has a additional sensor, mounted right in front of the ignition key, and whether or not the sensor is installed.
I will have to look at the harness connections, but I assume they will be the same.
thanks alot VQP0WER. so the different setups are based on the model years or model trims?
Quote:
Originally Posted by VQP0WER
Good question. I looked in the service manual, and the digital has the "AUTO" climate control option, which the manual (analog) version does not. This digital/auto display has a additional sensor, mounted right in front of the ignition key, and whether or not the sensor is installed.
I will have to look at the harness connections, but I assume they will be the same.
More on options then specific to model or year. I'll look and see if the 00-01's had/have the same setup as the 02-03.
The automatic climate control units are interchangeable between the 2000 through 2003 models. The question as to whether or not the manual and auto units can be swapped out one for the other has been asked several times before and as matter of fact it's been asked so many times that the last thread opened about this was closed by a moderator; AC control unit swap
I have a problem where my passenger side window keeps auto reversing when I'm trying to close it. Do you think the motor is going, the glass is moving freely as far as I can see.
More on options then specific to model or year. I'll look and see if the 00-01's had/have the same setup as the 02-03.
VQP0WER, i really appreciate it. thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddie18
The automatic climate control units are interchangeable between the 2000 through 2003 models. The question as to whether or not the manual and auto units can be swapped out one for the other has been asked several times before and as matter of fact it's been asked so many times that the last thread opened about this was closed by a moderator; AC control unit swap
Teddie18, thanks for the heads up. lookin into it now.
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to ask this but do you know if they made a "Y" pipe for the 2002 maxima, my buddy has one on his 96 maxima, but i cant seem to find a place that sells them for the 02 model, it ends in the 01 year. They take the place of the pre cats any help would be great thanks
Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place to ask this but do you know if they made a "Y" pipe for the 2002 maxima, my buddy has one on his 96 maxima, but i cant seem to find a place that sells them for the 02 model, it ends in the 01 year. They take the place of the pre cats any help would be great thanks
They make one, just can't remember where to get it. On the 2k2 and 2k3 the y-pipe did not see significant gains. So basically it is not worth the money....you can go with headers instead which should be readily available and you will see some gains.
If this question has been asked I apologize, but I've been searching for the past 40 minutes or so and haven't found a question that matches my condition.
My Problem:
Car started stalling this afternoon while driving. It is idling fine, and was NOT stalling while sitting at a light or while parked (this is the most common issue I found while searching). First time it stalled I was speeding up from 30. Hit about 3k RPM then I started losing power fast - RPM's were bouncing back and forth between 2k and 3k, before they dropped off completely and the car stalled. Ran about 2 miles before it happened again. By that point I was a few blocks from my apartment so I tried one last time, but it stalled less than a mile later. It was a downhill coast with no power, but was able to get it home at least.
Fun Facts:
Nissan Maxima 2003 - Automatic (wish it were manual)
130k miles
No CEL
Starts, but does take a second or two longer to catch
No audible engine noises - sounds brand new when it is actually running
No Smoking/Overheating/Oil Light/other indications
1/4 tank of gas
Not overheating
Recent work:
Had my second CAM Sensor replaced under recall two weeks ago (first was replaced a year ago...didn't research enough to find out about the recall...doh).
Still driving my Grand Am which is doing fine, but now I'm experiencing a new repair on average once every 2-5 months (and I maintain it very well, all fluids changes, tune-up's etc) Which I've come to expect, and $400+ a repair isn't bad, but it adds up very quickly when it occurs every few months.
Now the question, with all proper upkeep and maintenance, how often do you guys experience a repair (minor/major) on your Maxima's?
Strangely there is nothing wrong with the water pump that I am aware of. The dealer tried to tell me that since it's an import, they have to change the pump with all the timing components. I definitely need a second opinion.
Except for the rattle at cold start, and the pinging, the car is running strong. I have noticed no change in power, the MPGs are good, it starts fine. I checked the oil level and it was smack in the middle but I will keep my eyes on it. It has no leaks that I know of, but it would be great if it's the oil level causing the issue and not something worse. I love my Max!
Thanks for the links.
the rattle on cold start is fairly common...there was a TSB on it-most likely its the VTC Sprockets-dealer repair (which should include timing chain while in there at that mileage) is running like 1200+. Even when replaced it tends to make a little noise-its not a huge deal
The POWER driver seat in my 01 Maxima does not move forward and back.
I understand that there is a TSB for this but...
Q1: Will a MANUAL driver's seat from a 00 Maxima fit my car?
I can find one from a junk yard for about $180 shipped.
The cheapest motor I have seen is around $260 shipped.
Q2: What is the life expectancy of the replacement motor?
To give you an idea of usage, the drivers of the car are 5'4" and 6'2". It'll be adjusted at least twice a day [all the way to the front and then back]
Previous owner of the car left it in the same position since almost day one and it went out after I used it twice!
Last edited by maximafrvr; 06-24-2009 at 01:40 PM.
I have an 01 GLE (12/00) with some weird AC issues.
I busted the condensor somehow couple months ago.(think a rock hit it???) so i put one on from a Junk Yard on. Everything worked for about 2 hrs then the new one busted. Come to find out when the junk yard took it off the car they pinched one of the lines which caused it to bust.
Now to the problem:
I put on a new condensor yesterday and went to charge it everything went smooth no leaks so i assumed everything was fine. I recoverd it, vaccumed it (55 min) then oil then charge(1.10lbs). Now i have no air
i have redone the same process twice. So i go buy expansion Valve and hope that is the issue. NO luck. so now im lost the Compressor is coming on it makes no funny noices.
The Low pressure line is at 120lb high side is at 100. i have no idea where to go from here.
What does the electric plug going into the side of the condensor do.
I also did the self test on the inside of the car which is noted here: A/C stopped working
everything seemed fine.
Also on a side note my condensor is from an 03. It is the only one i have found that fits. The connections on an 01 are totally different than the ones i have. The 03 is identical.
PLEASE HELP THANK YOU
i have a question i barely registered about two days ago i had a question about my car when i turn it on it starts ok but then it starts sputtering when i press on the gas instead of the rpm's revving they lower themselves and when i let go it revs, after that the car keeps on sputtering then eventually dies out and everything happens under 1 rpm if any one can help out please do will really appreciate it thanks.
Still driving my Grand Am which is doing fine, but now I'm experiencing a new repair on average once every 2-5 months (and I maintain it very well, all fluids changes, tune-up's etc) Which I've come to expect, and $400+ a repair isn't bad, but it adds up very quickly when it occurs every few months.
Now the question, with all proper upkeep and maintenance, how often do you guys experience a repair (minor/major) on your Maxima's?
First a Maxima is more luxurious, rides and handles better than a Grand Am. Generally it is more reliable in comparison to a Grand Am. But it is hard to say specifically any one car is going to be more reliable than another even if in general it has a better reliability record.
The reasons why are manifold. Just a few:
1. How has the car been driven?
2. How has the car been maintained?
3. Has the car been in an accident?
4. How many miles are on it?
5. Is it a flood car?
I can say that Maximas are reliable. A guy drove by me with a 2000 Maxima and he asked how many miles I had on my car and I told him 90,000. He replied, "I've got 120,000, so you've at least 30,000 more trouble free miles." I now have 110,000 miles on my car and have had to replace the ignition coils and an oxygen sensor. He wasn't exactly right but these are common issues and are easy repairs to do yourself.
If you intend to buy a 5th gen. Maxima do some research and if you happen to find a used Maxima for sale that you want to buy, have it checked by a mechanic you trust. If you don't know one take the car to a Nissan dealership to be checked out. It's worth the money and peace of mind.
In addition this forum is extremely helpful with any of the problems that are common to the 5th generation Maxima. Keep in mind every car that is made has problems that are common to its model. The Maxima I can guarantee you has far fewer issues than the Grand Am and is a step up in every way imaginable.
First a Maxima is more luxurious, rides and handles better than a Grand Am. Generally it is more reliable in comparison to a Grand Am. But it is hard to say specifically any one car is going to be more reliable than another even if in general it has a better reliability record.
The reasons why are manifold. Just a few:
1. How has the car been driven?
2. How has the car been maintained?
3. Has the car been in an accident?
4. How many miles are on it?
5. Is it a flood car?
I can say that Maximas are reliable. A guy drove by me with a 2000 Maxima and he asked how many miles I had on my car and I told him 90,000. He replied, "I've got 120,000, so you've at least 30,000 more trouble free miles." I now have 110,000 miles on my car and have had to replace the ignition coils and an oxygen sensor. He wasn't exactly right but these are common issues and are easy repairs to do yourself.
If you intend to buy a 5th gen. Maxima do some research and if you happen to find a used Maxima for sale that you want to buy, have it checked by a mechanic you trust. If you don't know one take the car to a Nissan dealership to be checked out. It's worth the money and peace of mind.
In addition this forum is extremely helpful with any of the problems that are common to the 5th generation Maxima. Keep in mind every car that is made has problems that are common to its model. The Maxima I can guarantee you has far fewer issues than the Grand Am and is a step up in every way imaginable.
Highway/city driven, not a flood car, maintenance on it seems to be very well up-kept, no accidents, and just under 78,000k miles (125,000km). And thank you, I am going to see where the closest Nissan dealership to the vehicle is, and see if they can do a 150 point inspection on it. Yes it is definately a huge step up! I really enjoyed the test drive for sure!
When changing the MAF/Coils/o2 sensors, do you find them to be re-occuring fixes, or once changed to a new one can one expect the same amount of miles out of them that you got out of them originally?
All in all tho, from going thru the 5/5.5th gen forums, I think I will really enjoy a Maxima! Most people seem to be using the Mobil1 synthetic motor oil, and Mobil1 for the transmission fluid aswell so I'll definately be picking up those items (Any other products anyone could recommend to keep it in tip-top shape?). Thank you Teddie18, and to the rest of the Maxima.org 5/5.5 gen forum posters for all your great info.
The MAF and coils are one time repairs. There's more than one O2 sensor so you might have two or three to replace over time. But O2 sensors are no problem to replace. Once they're replaced that's it.
If you can get a good price on a Maxima with 78k buy it.
You don't have to use synthetic oil. I've never used synthetic products and never had an engine or transmission problem in any car. I've always used Valvoline high mileage oil and Fram extra guard oil filter. They have never failed me in any car. That's over 700,000 miles. Just do the maintenace when it's required. That's the key.
Hi everyone,
I'm hoping that someone can help me figure out what's wrong with my car. I have a 2000 Maxima with automatic transmission and 74,000 miles on it. I bought the car about 2 years ago with 53,000 miles on it and it was in good condition and has all regular maintenance done on it.
A few things are going on:
1) the past couple days it started making an awful screaching/squealing sound when I start the engine after it's been off several hours. The noise gets progressively louder as I push the gas pedal down, but stops after a minute or two, or when I stop the car after driving it a short distance. The noise is a very quiet squealing when i turn on the car and the gauges are all normal when this is happening. It doesn't do it *every* time I start the car, about 50% of the time. it's been warmer out the past few days (80s) but it was much warmer than that last month and I didnt have this problem. Do you have any idea what could cause this?
- I'm not sure if this is related, but the car appears to be accelerating funny the past few weeks. I can't describe it well, but it's accelerating very SLOWLY, like i'm driving a prius trying to tow a tractor trailor. This only seems to happen up to around 45mph and it seems the gas pedal is harder to push and you really have to jam the pedal to get the car to accelerate the way it should. We replaced my speed sensor in the end of May and the car was driving and shifting great again. My gas mileage was back up to around 18mpg, but now it's getting 15! Also, the transmission fluid was flushed a few months ago and is at the right level.
2) for the past year+ the car periodically makes a grinding noise when turning the wheel. It started out only happening once a week or so and now happens once or more daily. The noise is an EXTREMELY loud grinding noise that can be heard a block or more from the car and it's just a painfully loud, grinding, churning sounding noise. It used to be only when I was turning the wheel slightly to the left (like to park on the street), but now it also does it sometimes when I am backing out of my driveway (which is on an incline) and even when i'm making full turns to the left or right. the noise stops as soon as my wheels are straight again and usually occurs when i'm driving on level roads. From what I can tell the noise is coming from the front driver's side of the car. The noise began before I got new tires and had the wheels rotated. i also had new brake pads, rotors and calipers put on the car last year and they're still in good condition. Do you know what could be causing this?
It started out as a mild neusance once in a while but now all the noises my car makes are annoying me to death! I'm very concerned about the noise it makes when the engine's starting, and now it sometimes sounds like my car's going to fall apart when it turns!
I need to figure out whats going on with the car and how much it will cost me to fix it. If it's going to be excessive I'm going to sell the car. In addition to the brakes, rotors, calipers, and speed sensor, i also had to have a new exhaust put on the car, and it seems every few months it's something else. I have a friend who can do the repairs for me if I can lead him in the right direction. It never acts up when I let someone else drive it. I'm hoping someone here can help me - I cant tell you how many places I went to have them diagnose my shifting problem and no one knew what was wrong with my car, but wanted to charge $350+ just to look at it!
My car doesnt start...but i was able to jump it. I drove another 20 miles, turned off the car..it dies on me again.. i thoghut after 20 miles it should had recharged a bit. Also..my ABS light turns on and airbag light flashes. what's wrong with it? I know my battery might be gone.. but what's with ABS and airbag lights? can low battery causes them to flash as well?
My car doesnt start...but i was able to jump it. I drove another 20 miles, turned off the car..it dies on me again.. i thoghut after 20 miles it should had recharged a bit. Also..my ABS light turns on and airbag light flashes. what's wrong with it? I know my battery might be gone.. but what's with ABS and airbag lights? can low battery causes them to flash as well?
Have you checked the battery and charging system yet?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Just wondering how much is it to replace two engine mounts ? I've never had to replace them so i dont really know how much an engine mount is and whats the price range for it.
Just wondering how much is it to replace two engine mounts ? I've never had to replace them so i dont really know how much an engine mount is and whats the price range for it.
Thanks
Have you checked around for prices? You can find the prices for engine mounts if you search eBay, Courtesy, other parts sites (Rockauto, etc), the classifieds, or, simple, google.
Did you ask the same question twice? 'How much' it is, and the price range are the same thing, basically.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Hi everyone,
I'm hoping that someone can help me figure out what's wrong with my car. I have a 2000 Maxima with automatic transmission and 74,000 miles on it. I bought the car about 2 years ago with 53,000 miles on it and it was in good condition and has all regular maintenance done on it.
A few things are going on:
1) the past couple days it started making an awful screaching/squealing sound when I start the engine after it's been off several hours. The noise gets progressively louder as I push the gas pedal down, but stops after a minute or two, or when I stop the car after driving it a short distance. The noise is a very quiet squealing when i turn on the car and the gauges are all normal when this is happening. It doesn't do it *every* time I start the car, about 50% of the time. it's been warmer out the past few days (80s) but it was much warmer than that last month and I didnt have this problem. Do you have any idea what could cause this?
- I'm not sure if this is related, but the car appears to be accelerating funny the past few weeks. I can't describe it well, but it's accelerating very SLOWLY, like i'm driving a prius trying to tow a tractor trailor. This only seems to happen up to around 45mph and it seems the gas pedal is harder to push and you really have to jam the pedal to get the car to accelerate the way it should. We replaced my speed sensor in the end of May and the car was driving and shifting great again. My gas mileage was back up to around 18mpg, but now it's getting 15! Also, the transmission fluid was flushed a few months ago and is at the right level.
2) for the past year+ the car periodically makes a grinding noise when turning the wheel. It started out only happening once a week or so and now happens once or more daily. The noise is an EXTREMELY loud grinding noise that can be heard a block or more from the car and it's just a painfully loud, grinding, churning sounding noise. It used to be only when I was turning the wheel slightly to the left (like to park on the street), but now it also does it sometimes when I am backing out of my driveway (which is on an incline) and even when i'm making full turns to the left or right. the noise stops as soon as my wheels are straight again and usually occurs when i'm driving on level roads. From what I can tell the noise is coming from the front driver's side of the car. The noise began before I got new tires and had the wheels rotated. i also had new brake pads, rotors and calipers put on the car last year and they're still in good condition. Do you know what could be causing this?
It started out as a mild neusance once in a while but now all the noises my car makes are annoying me to death! I'm very concerned about the noise it makes when the engine's starting, and now it sometimes sounds like my car's going to fall apart when it turns!
I need to figure out whats going on with the car and how much it will cost me to fix it. If it's going to be excessive I'm going to sell the car. In addition to the brakes, rotors, calipers, and speed sensor, i also had to have a new exhaust put on the car, and it seems every few months it's something else. I have a friend who can do the repairs for me if I can lead him in the right direction. It never acts up when I let someone else drive it. I'm hoping someone here can help me - I cant tell you how many places I went to have them diagnose my shifting problem and no one knew what was wrong with my car, but wanted to charge $350+ just to look at it!
thank you!!!
The screeching noise at start up is most likely one of your drive belts slipping. This is a guess of course. You might want to replace both belts if they haven't replaced all ready. Belt replacement is a maintenance item.
The other noise is not completely uncommon. The degree of it may be. It could be a number of front suspension components. It could be the strut tower mounts, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links or something else. It could be a combination of these and other components. I would start with replacing the sway bar bushings and then the strut mounts. Then the sway bar end links. Without being able to hear the noise nor inspect the car I can't be absolutely sure. But you always start with the least expensive/easiest repair and move on from there.
Just changed out the battery..so far so good, seems like the battery was so low, couldnt keep up with abs, airbag systems..couldnt use power windows even when the engine was on... now it's all good.. but my alternator doesnt charge the battery fully..might be a problem too in a long run
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmohr
Have you checked the battery and charging system yet?
got another related question, if my alternator is dead, can i drive my car with just the battery? does the car start and able to be travel 50 miles nonstop? or the new battery will die pretty soon as well? I have driven another 30 miles so far with new battery..but i dunno if my alternator is recharging it
is there any code that comes on if alternator is dead?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bl_asd1
Just changed out the battery..so far so good, seems like the battery was so low, couldnt keep up with abs, airbag systems..couldnt use power windows even when the engine was on... now it's all good.. but my alternator doesnt charge the battery fully..might be a problem too in a long run
got another related question, if my alternator is dead, can i drive my car with just the battery? does the car start and able to be travel 50 miles nonstop? or the new battery will die pretty soon as well? I have driven another 30 miles so far with new battery..but i dunno if my alternator is recharging it
is there any code that comes on if alternator is dead?
If you're not sure if your alternator is working, take it to Auto Zone and have it tested. You'll just ruin the new battery if it isn't being charged properly. There are no codes but warning lights will come on. Codes are primarily for engine and emission related components.
A few questions/issues that I'm having with my recently-acquired Maxima. Sorry for the long post, but any help is much appreciated!
1. REAR WINDOW ISSUE
Both of the window switches in the rear of my Maxima do not function properly.
When the rear passenger-side switch is depressed, the window only cracks open a few inches. When the rear driver-side switch is depressed, nothing happens. Neither switch can close the windows once they're open (that is, lifting the switches does nothing).
I can control the windows just fine from the driver's seat, but the switches in the rear are having issues. I also noticed that the action of the driver-side rear window is a bit sluggish.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to remedy these issues? Is there some funky issue with the window lock being engaged though it is not turned on?
2. TAIL LIGHT REPLACEMENT
I'm swapping out my red GLE tail lights for black SE ones. From my research, it seems that you have to add some extra sealant when installing the new ones. Will any silicone sealant do (like the $6 stuff from Home Depot) or will I have to spring for the $20 Nissan OEM sealant from the dealer?
3. LOWERING SPRINGS WITH STOCK STRUTS
I'm looking for the most economical way to drop my car without making the ride worse (right now, all components are stock). From the shift_ice website, it seems that some springs with modest drops (Eibach, H&R, Tein H-Tech) can be used with the stock struts. From the threads that I've read, the results are varied and there's no definite answer as to whether or not that works.
I can afford the springs right now, but not both springs and struts. Would I be alright using those lowering springs with my stock struts and shocks? That is, can I achieve the drop without compromising the ride too much?
Also, the transmission fluid was flushed a few months ago and is at the right level.
Linear Mode
