5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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ill search it up but is that mpg normal? it only has 90k miles on it and ive never owned a v6 before lol
edit* i searched everything but idk if i found anything but also once and a while i get a really nasty smell whne i put it in park and it smells like rotten eggs i know its not from the exaust cause it smells normal and i just checked im on a half tankk and i drovei t for 110 miles.. thats like 11mpg i just bought the car a week ago =[ i need help bad.
What do you mean you 'don't know if you found anything'?
i bought the car last week and idk if the previous owner did any maintanence is there anyway to check? like if i take it to nissan or something? btw there is check engine light its just giving me really ****ty mpg. 11 mpg is killing me especially since im a student
i bought the car last week and idk if the previous owner did any maintanence is there anyway to check? like if i take it to nissan or something? btw there is check engine light its just giving me really ****ty mpg. 11 mpg is killing me especially since im a student
It's seriously like you're trying to make this hard on yourself.
If there's a CEL, why have you not checked the codes yet? Seriously, that's the first thing you do.
If you want to bring it to Nissan, go right ahead. You'll be paying a hell of a lot of money, though.
Otherwise, if you read the links I posted (when I searched for you, even), you'll have at least some idea of where to start.
If you don't actually do some reading yourself, it's going to be tough for you to do anything about it other than take it to a shop. Not everything can be spoonfed to you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
my bad i meant there isnt a cel and sorry im just really upset about this and really tired trying to figure something out ive been searchign google and everything for around 6 hours now i appreciate you helpin me out but whats the best way to chekc if all maintanence is done. i got it inspected tuesday and it passed my mechanic saaid nothing looked wrong with it but i just realized today how bad the mpg was... sorry about asking all these questions
my bad i meant there isnt a cel and sorry im just really upset about this and really tired trying to figure something out ive been searchign google and everything for around 6 hours now i appreciate you helpin me out but whats the best way to chekc if all maintanence is done. i got it inspected tuesday and it passed my mechanic saaid nothing looked wrong with it but i just realized today how bad the mpg was... sorry about asking all these questions
If you want to check if maintenance was done, then check the maintenance items...
Check the air filter, plugs, PCV, etc.
If you don't know when they were done (if ever), then do them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
around how much would all of that cost not including labor? were would i be able to find a list of the maintenance items also im really knew around cars im only 17 and tihs is my first car
around how much would all of that cost not including labor? were would i be able to find a list of the maintenance items also im really knew around cars im only 17 and tihs is my first car
most of the things you can do it yourself and it'll be a lot cheaper.. but if i were you, i would read up on a lot of things on this site such as "stickys" they'll help you A LOT.. most ppl here won't give you a straight answer and will just tell you to search since its all been discussed numerous times.. but good luck with fixing up your car.. don't stress over it too much, added stress won't do any good.. and if you still need anything, post here or ask pmohr since he's a Nissan God lol
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2002 Maxima SE Auto - Totalled 9/27/09
2002 Maxima GLE Auto - Picked up 10/16/09
Absolutely not! Mine gets 18 to 20 in town and between 26 and 30 on the freeway at 80 MPH.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xshadow715
it only has 90k miles on it and ive never owned a v6 before...thats like 11mpg...
It's not because it has a V6. My 5,500 pound truck with a 425 HP gasoline V8 gets 15 in town. That is better than you are getting with your car. It could be you drive like a crazy person, but I am betting that something is wrong with your car instead. The rotten egg smell tells me something is wrong. You could have a plugged cat. I am surprised the "service engine soon" light has not lit.
Mike
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2001 GLE, Sunlit Sand, Completely Stock (except for louder horns and a BG drop in air filter)
okay my 2001 max is getting really bad mpg is there anything i can do to fix this or test it idk if its me but im almost at half tank and i only drove it for about 110 miles...
So when you filled the car did you top it off? Meaning did you put gas in till you couldnt put anymore in? Cause if you didnt then who knows how many gallons you burnt till you got to half a tank. If you just filled up to the top line on the indicator thats about 5-6 gallons from the middle so figure 110/6 = 18.3 which is ok gas mileage
So when you filled the car did you top it off? Meaning did you put gas in till you couldnt put anymore in? Cause if you didnt then who knows how many gallons you burnt till you got to half a tank. If you just filled up to the top line on the indicator thats about 5-6 gallons from the middle so figure 110/6 = 18.3 which is ok gas mileage
i topped it off so how much would that be? should i maybe try a fuel system cleaner? and when i filed up i used premium lol my friend is gonna take a look at it today so far i realized i had wrong tire pressure in the car i only drove about 6 miles on it so idk if that fixed it or not but hopefiully it is lol and im kinda hopeing my cel doesnt turn on i got no money lol the smell only comes on if i go passed 4k rpms but ive been trying to keep it under 4k rpms to reduce gas consumption. one more question whats the bset way to remove scratches and like those little pebble marks on the front bumper? i went to advance auto and the guy said not to buff it but to "clay" it
Last edited by xshadow715; 06-04-2009 at 03:34 PM.
i topped it off so how much would that be? should i maybe try a fuel system cleaner? and when i filed up i used premium lol my friend is gonna take a look at it today so far i realized i had wrong tire pressure in the car i only drove about 6 miles on it so idk if that fixed it or not but hopefiully it is lol and im kinda hopeing my cel doesnt turn on i got no money lol the smell only comes on if i go passed 4k rpms but ive been trying to keep it under 4k rpms to reduce gas consumption. one more question whats the bset way to remove scratches and like those little pebble marks on the front bumper? i went to advance auto and the guy said not to buff it but to "clay" it
You are aware that the fuel gauge isn't linear, correct? It also is by no means an accurate way of judging how much fuel you've used.
Check your MPG the correct way for real numbers.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Sunroof just pops up and usually allows just a few inches of air. Moonroof retracts into the roof.
By definition, a sunroof is opaque, a moonroof isn't. That's the sole difference.
Any other differences in mounting, fully openable or not, vent feature, how or where it retracts are details specific to that specific installation, not sun/moonroofs in general.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
By definition, a sunroof is opaque, a moonroof isn't. That's the sole difference.
Any other differences in mounting, fully openable or not, vent feature, how or where it retracts are details specific to that specific installation, not sun/moonroofs in general.
You are aware that the fuel gauge isn't linear, correct? It also is by no means an accurate way of judging how much fuel you've used.
Check your MPG the correct way for real numbers.
correct way as in driving till the light turns on? btw i had my friend look at it and he found that there is an air leak of some sort in the back of the engine but he couldnt pin point exactly where its at and my tires were kinda low on air so i filled them up but the recommended front ones are 50 psi and back ones are 44 should i let some air out of them?
correct way as in driving till the light turns on? btw i had my friend look at it and he found that there is an air leak of some sort in the back of the engine but he couldnt pin point exactly where its at and my tires were kinda low on air so i filled them up but the recommended front ones are 50 psi and back ones are 44 should i let some air out of them?
this is a real noob question but wuts the difference between a sunroof and a moonroof
To elaborate a little more from previous responders;
Sunroof is usually made out of metal, generally the same material and color as the car exterior. It only allows air/light when in the open position, whether is tilted or retracted. Moonroof is made out of glass, usually tinted. It allows light in the closed position (as long as the interior panel is retracted), and air/light in the open position, whether is tilted or retracted.
correct way as in driving till the light turns on? ......?
A good way to get an average mpg reading is to fill up the tank and set your trip reader to 0.00. At the next fill up, make a note of the number of miles in the trip reader and the number of gallons you put in. Then just divide the first number by the second one.
Yesterday, I started my 2000 Maxima and is ran very rough at idle and for about 1/4 mile of driving, during which time my SES light was flashing. The light then turned off (is still off) and ran fine. The car ran fine the rest of the day with several stops and restarts.
Today, my car wouldn't start at all in the morning, just kept turning over. I waited a couple of minutes, tried again and it started right up. Same thing happened today a lunch (turned over several times, wouldn't start, waited, then started).
I had the codes checked (light was still off though), and it did have P1320 and P0300 in memory. Over the last 1-2 years I have replaced the MAF, the plugs, and a couple faulty coils. My first though was more coils, but why would that cause it not to start on minute, but then start the next? Could this be fuel injection problem?
Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Maxima 2001 Automatic
On a cold start, my engine start to give some hit. Not like it want to die, more like it dont want to take gas. After 15 sec, everything is ok. The car work good. I don't know if that can help to find the problem. When the transmission change speed, i heard a little click... I change the front engine mount so it can't be that.
Thank you for helpin me
p.s. escuse me for my english writing!!
I was also wondering if anyone had had online recommendations for getting new transponder keys? Are there any site online that can program them, or do you have to bring it into the dealership?
I was also wondering if anyone had had online recommendations for getting new transponder keys? Are there any site online that can program them, or do you have to bring it into the dealership?
If you do find a place online that you feel comfortable with, you might want to check if local locksmiths will cut/program it for you beforehand. In my case, 3 local locksmiths and home depot refused to do it unless I bought the key from them, alledging some vague reasons. I ended up purchasing the key from one of the locksmiths along with the cutting and programing, all for $50. Although I only paid $16 online for the key, I'm still stuck with it until i find someone who'd cut it and program it at a reasonable price. The model number in the packaging is exactly the same as the one I purchased from the locksmith.
If you do find a place online that you feel comfortable with, you might want to check if local locksmiths will cut/program it for you beforehand. In my case, 3 local locksmiths and home depot refused to do it unless I bought the key from them, alledging some vague reasons. I ended up purchasing the key from one of the locksmiths along with the cutting and programing, all for $50. Although I only paid $16 online for the key, I'm still stuck with it until i find someone who'd cut it and program it at a reasonable price. The model number in the packaging is exactly the same as the one I purchased from the locksmith.
Home Depot!?! They sell transponder keys? Or was it just their general policy that they don't cut outside keys?
Home Depot!?! They sell transponder keys? Or was it just their general policy that they don't cut outside keys?
They sell, cut and program transponder keys, all for around $80 in my area. Their policy, as well as that of the locksmith's, was not to program any outside keys. (I guess they could've just cut my key if I wanted to, but that would be the same as cutting a $1 key).
should there be a pssssss noise in the like in the back area of the engine? i can hear the timing chain but there is also a pssss noise like theres a leak of some sort
They sell, cut and program transponder keys, all for around $80 in my area. Their policy, as well as that of the locksmith's, was not to program any outside keys. (I guess they could've just cut my key if I wanted to, but that would be the same as cutting a $1 key).
Huh? I worked for Home Depot for many years, and we NEVER programmed any key. We could check to see if it needs to be programmed, but Home Depot does not have the ability to "program."
Huh? I worked for Home Depot for many years, and we NEVER programmed any key. We could check to see if it needs to be programmed, but Home Depot does not have the ability to "program."
That could be the case when you worked for Home Depot; I can't vouch for you or your area. Whatever the procedure they use in my area (they called it "program"), when I gave them the year, make and model of my car at the two different stores I visited, I was told they were able to make a working key for me.
That could be the case when you worked for Home Depot; I can't vouch for you or your area. Whatever the procedure they use in my area (they called it "program"), when I gave them the year, make and model of my car at the two different stores I visited, I was told they were able to make a working key for me.
A Home Depot employee does not "program" a key. They "may" have a contractor in the store that does it, but no Home Depot employee does things like this.
A Home Depot employee does not "program" a key. They "may" have a contractor in the store that does it, but no Home Depot employee does things like this.
You speak for the entire corporation, and to the capabilities of each and every individual location?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
I've got nothing to prove, I'm just saying that without checking with each individual store (or with corporate, but you know how that is), what you're saying is merely an assumption.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
I have a p505 code and am now replacing the ECU and IACV, however I am stuck on trying to remove the throttle body. I am unable to take off the bottom electrical conection, I was wondering if anyone had any hints. I am also not positive as to how to take off the air hoses, what do i do with the metal clamps? Thanks
I have a p505 code and am now replacing the ECU and IACV, however I am stuck on trying to remove the throttle body. I am unable to take off the bottom electrical conection, I was wondering if anyone had any hints. I am also not positive as to how to take off the air hoses, what do i do with the metal clamps? Thanks
What do you mean? You squeeze the clamp
By the bottom electrical connection I assume you mean the on IACV itself? What exactly is it not doing? It should unclip just like any other connector in the engine bay.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
By the bottom electrical connection I assume you mean the on IACV itself? What exactly is it not doing? It should unclip just like any other connector in the engine bay.
The two on the side came off without a fight, but the one directly on the IACV seems to be too close to a metal connection that holds two random hoses. On which side is the clip (if I understand correctly it is on the side parallel to the left wheel)? could you please take a look at the attached instructions and see if maybe the order is incorrect, and also, how do you take the air hoses off?
Linear Mode
