5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Hi , newb here. '01 maxima gle w/ bose radio works great. just can't see anything. display is totally blank. pulled it out of dash, wiring looks fine. any help is greatly appreciated.
MY sister drives a 2000 Max GLE and yesterday it had some major issues and i had to go pick her and the car up.. when i drove it, i didn't hear any of the noises she was talking about but noticed that even when i floored the car all the way, the RPM goes up slowly and the speed picks up VERY slowly as if it only had like 50hp..
Took it to autozone today to check codes and it had these 3..
*P1320 Ignition Signal Probable Causes
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Failed power transistor unit
3. Failed ignition ballast resistor
4. Cam position sensor failure
*P0300 Random Cylinder Misfire Probable Causes
1. Ignition system fault
2. Fuel system concern
3. Large Vacuum leak
4. MAF sensor fault
5. AF/Ho2S sensor fault
*P0720 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault Probable Causes
1.) Open or short circuit condition
2.) Failed vehicle speed sensor
Is there a way i can go and check some of these issues out at home before taking it to a shop? if so how? also, what estimate should i get for getting these things repaired if not DIY? (im a moderate skilled DIYer as i drive a lightly modded Acura TL)
Sorry for the long post, but I'm not allowed to make my own thread yet..
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by NoLimitDeC; 05-31-2009 at 12:48 PM.
Hey there. My '02 GLE has an issue where it has a dead motor fan on one of the fans in the ac fan assembly. I was wondering if there are any guides on how to remove this assembly properly?
MY sister drives a 2000 Max GLE and yesterday it had some major issues and i had to go pick her and the car up.. when i drove it, i didn't hear any of the noises she was talking about but noticed that even when i floored the car all the way, the RPM goes up slowly and the speed picks up VERY slowly as if it only had like 50hp..
Took it to autozone today to check codes and it had these 3..
*P1320 Ignition Signal Probable Causes
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Failed power transistor unit
3. Failed ignition ballast resistor
4. Cam position sensor failure
*P0300 Random Cylinder Misfire Probable Causes
1. Ignition system fault
2. Fuel system concern
3. Large Vacuum leak
4. MAF sensor fault
5. AF/Ho2S sensor fault
*P0720 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault Probable Causes
1.) Open or short circuit condition
2.) Failed vehicle speed sensor
Is there a way i can go and check some of these issues out at home before taking it to a shop? if so how? also, what estimate should i get for getting these things repaired if not DIY? (im a moderate skilled DIYer as i drive a lightly modded Acura TL)
Sorry for the long post, but I'm not allowed to make my own thread yet..
Thanks in advance.
The first two problems appear to be known issues that are common to 5th generation Maximas. Number one, replace the ignition coils. If they don't have grey dots on them they are most likely the culprit for the P1320. Number two, the MAF in Maximas is prone to failure. Replace it with a new one. I wouldn't attempt to clean it. The film on the electrode is very sensitive and can be easily damaged even when using MAF cleaner.
Search the site and I'm sure you'll find numerous comments about each concern.
Hey there. My '02 GLE has an issue where it has a dead motor fan on one of the fans in the ac fan assembly. I was wondering if there are any guides on how to remove this assembly properly?
You do know the second fan only turns on when the engine temp is hot and/or your AC is running, correct?
To remove, you just remove a few cheap plastic fasteners, disconnect electrical plugs, and remove.
I recently bought an 02 Maxima SE back in January and it had limited driving use being a 3rd car until this month. Just recently in the past week I was driving home and the check engine light came on. Btw the car has 53300 miles. I went to the closest AutoZone to get the device that checks what's wrong with the car. The code came out to be P0011 which said something about the camshaft actuator sensor or both were bad. Does anyone know anything about this, or even how to fix it. I was wondering if it is a do it yourself fix or would I have to take it to my mechanic?
I recently bought an 02 Maxima SE back in January and it had limited driving use being a 3rd car until this month. Just recently in the past week I was driving home and the check engine light came on. Btw the car has 53300 miles. I went to the closest AutoZone to get the device that checks what's wrong with the car. The code came out to be P0011 which said something about the camshaft actuator sensor or both were bad. Does anyone know anything about this, or even how to fix it. I was wondering if it is a do it yourself fix or would I have to take it to my mechanic?
Thanks!!
Did you search at all?
First, check your oil level.
Second, search and read through the threads concerning this code...
Hey I just bought an 02 Maxima SE 3.5 and my oil pan is rusted and leaking. Does anybody know if I can just change the lower oil pan or is there a problem with the upper oil pan as well.
Also, I have read about people having problems with the rear valve cover. Would this be a related issue, is it close to the oil pan??
Hey I just bought an 02 Maxima SE 3.5 and my oil pan is rusted and leaking. Does anybody know if I can just change the lower oil pan or is there a problem with the upper oil pan as well.
Also, I have read about people having problems with the rear valve cover. Would this be a related issue, is it close to the oil pan??
The upper oil pan is aluminum, it can't rust.
Replace (or clean up and paint) the lower pan, problem solved.
No, the rear valve cover has nothing to do with an oil pan leak (unless you're mistaking the oil dripping down from the RVC for an oil pan leak).
They generally don't leak openly anyway, they tend to leak into the spark plug tubes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Are these legit? Also, will I be able to swap these in without any modifications? It seems like the only difference between the SE and GXE/GLE lights is cosmetic. I'm not sure if the harnesses or anything are different.
Are these legit? Also, will I be able to swap these in without any modifications? It seems like the only difference between the SE and GXE/GLE lights is cosmetic. I'm not sure if the harnesses or anything are different.
They should be a direct swap as long as they're built like the 00-01 OEM housings. The 02-03 take a different harness.
Thank you! good to know I was reading instructions in my haynes manual and it sounded very complicated for the upper pan.
Another question, Can anybody recommend a good cold air system to install in the '02?
injen is a good CAI, but i would rather get a short ram.. search around and find which would be better for you.. you can find some intakes in the classifieds
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2002 Maxima SE Auto - Totalled 9/27/09
2002 Maxima GLE Auto - Picked up 10/16/09
You've pretty much got two options; retrofit some projectors, or use a different headlight (such as the A33B).
HID bulbs in halogen housings is just crap, don't even think about doing that.
Ideally, I'd spring for the OEM HIDs but they're around $550 on eBay, which is over my budget. I've read up on the eBay projector retrofits--is that generally cheaper to do? I imagine you buy the halo projectors for $200 and then an HID conversion kit for around $100-150. Is this correct?
Hey everybody i need a litle help. I try to remove my rear abs sensor driver side. I broke the head of the screw. Now i can't remove it the sensor. Did someone know if i remove the rotor i will be able to remove the screw. If not, did you have an other solution. Thank you !!
Hey everybody i need a litle help. I try to remove my rear abs sensor driver side. I broke the head of the screw. Now i can't remove it the sensor. Did someone know if i remove the rotor i will be able to remove the screw. If not, did you have an other solution. Thank you !!
Pull the sensor out, get some vicegrips.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
I had my MAF sensor crap out on me under hard acceleration yesterday. I was pulling out into traffic and goosed it to stay ahead of the traffic coming up behind me. When my transmission shifted from first to second (auto), the car fell on its face (lost power) and the "Service Engine Soon," "SLIP," and "TC" lights came on, but the car continued to run with reduced power.
I pulled over and turned off the car. When I tried to restart the car, it would not run. The "SLIP," and "TC" lights were off now, but the SES light was still lit. The car would start, run rough for about three seconds and quit. I had to have the car towed.
The shop said it was showing a P0100 code. They replaced the MAF with a new Nissan unit and now it runs. The new unit had a sticker on it stating that the ECM may need updated. Is this necessary if it runs? The shop was not a Nissan dealer, so they can't update it.
The wierd conditions of the failure leave me with many questions. Why did it fail at the 1-2 shift? Why did it run until I shut it off? Why did the "SLIP," and "TC" lights come on initially?
Does anyone think there may be more problems? Tranny possibly?
The car only has 55K miles on it. I am the original owner. I bought the car new in 2001.
Any feedback on this would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
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2001 GLE, Sunlit Sand, Completely Stock (except for louder horns and a BG drop in air filter)
I posted on here a few days ago and I don't know what happened to my post, but anyways I bought an 02 maxima se 6 speed back in January and it was barely driven until May. Recently I was driving home and the check engine light came on. I went to AutoZone and the reader said the code was P0011 which had something to do with the camshaft actuator sensor or both even. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about this and how to fix it. I would like to be able to do it myself if possible to save labor costs at my mechanic's shop.
I posted on here a few days ago and I don't know what happened to my post, but anyways I bought an 02 maxima se 6 speed back in January and it was barely driven until May. Recently I was driving home and the check engine light came on. I went to AutoZone and the reader said the code was P0011 which had something to do with the camshaft actuator sensor or both even. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about this and how to fix it. I would like to be able to do it myself if possible to save labor costs at my mechanic's shop.
I own a 2000 Maxima GLE and about 3 months ago I had the transmission rebuilt. It was running very smoothly until about 2 weeks and the clutch slipped and I only had first gear. The car shifts fine when the engine is cold but once it warms up, the car doesn't shift up. The shop that rebuilt my transmission has had it for almost two weeks now and they have replaced the torque converter, which didn't solve the problem, and now they are replacing the clutch now. I think it's the revolution sensor but I need some professional or experienced opinions to help me out.
My car has rubbing sound when the wheels are rolling..like metal rubbing against something..it's coming from the front..like in the middle. i replaced my CV joints 1 year ago..any idea what might be the problem?
I own a 2000 Maxima GLE and about 3 months I had the transmission rebuilt. It was running very smoothly until about 2 weeks and the clutch slipped and I only had first gear. The car shifts fine when the engine is cold but once it warms up, the car doesn't shift up. The shop that rebuilt my transmission has had it for almost two weeks now and they have replaced the torque converter, which didn't solve the problem, and now they are replacing the clutch now. I think it's the revolution sensor but I need some professional or experienced opinions to help me out.
Thanks very much in advance!
What specifically makes you think it's the revolution sensor?
FWIW:
The first two I'd look at for this as a heat-related issue are the solenoids and the valve body. Assuming it's not a TCM problem, that is.
Does it do it just when you're in drive? What if you put the shifter in the 2nd gear position?
Have you checked for trans codes? It could very well be telling you what the problem is, you're just not looking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bl_asd1
My car has rubbing sound when the wheels are rolling..like metal rubbing against something..it's coming from the front..like in the middle. i replaced my CV joints 1 year ago..any idea what might be the problem?
Have you checked the splash shields behind the rotors?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
okay my 2001 max is getting really bad mpg is there anything i can do to fix this or test it idk if its me but im almost at half tank and i only drove it for about 110 miles...
okay my 2001 max is getting really bad mpg is there anything i can do to fix this or test it idk if its me but im almost at half tank and i only drove it for about 110 miles...
Have you searched, read all of the (about a million) MPG threads, and followed all of the suggestions?
If not, do so. This question comes up very often.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
What specifically makes you think it's the revolution sensor?
FWIW:
The first two I'd look at for this as a heat-related issue are the solenoids and the valve body. Assuming it's not a TCM problem, that is.
Does it do it just when you're in drive? What if you put the shifter in the 2nd gear position?
Have you checked for trans codes? It could very well be telling you what the problem is, you're just not looking.
Have you checked the splash shields behind the rotors?
I just had a hunch it was a sensor because this car is filled with them, there's always one to replace, and after the mechanical parts checked out fine it had to be something else. I actually got it back from the mechanic tonight, and he said he replaced the sensor. I had a bad torque converter and it burned out the sensor which caused the loss of shifting ability.
I do have another question though... My bose back speaker sounds blown. I've removed the speaker but have no clue how to repair it or if it's even possible to repair... I need some help
Have you searched, read all of the (about a million) MPG threads, and followed all of the suggestions?
If not, do so. This question comes up very often.
ill search it up but is that mpg normal? it only has 90k miles on it and ive never owned a v6 before lol
edit* i searched everything but idk if i found anything but also once and a while i get a really nasty smell whne i put it in park and it smells like rotten eggs i know its not from the exaust cause it smells normal and i just checked im on a half tankk and i drovei t for 110 miles.. thats like 11mpg i just bought the car a week ago =[ i need help bad.
Last edited by xshadow715; 06-03-2009 at 07:11 PM.
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