5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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i was just driving along and all of a sudden no jerk or bump, and i am just holding stead on the gas but not going anywhere. just revving up as if it were in neutral. so i rev higher and then around 4k it "grabs" and starts to go again but doesn't shift into next gear. i click and unclick over drive does the same thing. so i park to the side put it in "park". go back into drive and i am able to drive again but it won't shift until around 4-5k rpm. otherwise everything rides and drives fine.
Is your engine light on?IF so then have that checked first at a local parts store like autozone or Advance. Likely that your tranny is going.get your checkbook ready.You may be able to find a good used one at a salvage yard.
hello everyone i have a 03 maxima se and im about to purchase my sub and amp while using my stock non-bose radio. Now people say i have to run my wire to the rear speakers, i dont even touch the radio. this is true? and how would i run the wires to the rear doors. sorry i am new to this and maxima. thank you
it has had this problem for a while now..
i was wondering if anyone could help out on figuring out whats wrong with it..
whenever i let it just idle it idles at about 500 rpm witch is rather normal..
but it shakes like a mofo/vibrates..
like the entire car
but if i rev the engine to like 1000 rpm it settles down..
hello everyone i have a 03 maxima se and im about to purchase my sub and amp while using my stock non-bose radio. Now people say i have to run my wire to the rear speakers, i dont even touch the radio. this is true? and how would i run the wires to the rear doors. sorry i am new to this and maxima. thank you
Does the stock radio have a pre-amp output? If not, you are screwed. You cannot run a sub off the rear speakers.
You will need to determine if there is a preamp output on your radio, if not, buy an aftermarket stereo with one.
Is your engine light on?IF so then have that checked first at a local parts store like autozone or Advance. Likely that your tranny is going.get your checkbook ready.You may be able to find a good used one at a salvage yard.
A parts house prob wont have the part you need. I used to work at Orielly auto and they didnt have the part i needed. My car would jus rev outta gear and then sometimes it would go back. sometimes it was so bad i had to sit and let the car cool for half hour or so. Its the Revolution sensor on the very edge on the driver side of the tranny. I had to go to nissan and it fixed my prob,
A parts house prob wont have the part you need. I used to work at Orielly auto and they didnt have the part i needed. My car would jus rev outta gear and then sometimes it would go back. sometimes it was so bad i had to sit and let the car cool for half hour or so. Its the Revolution sensor on the very edge on the driver side of the tranny. I had to go to nissan and it fixed my prob,
He meant to go to auto part store to get the engine light checked, if it was on, so he can get the actual code and then go from there.
Does the stock radio have a pre-amp output? If not, you are screwed. You cannot run a sub off the rear speakers.
You will need to determine if there is a preamp output on your radio, if not, buy an aftermarket stereo with one.
To be honest i have no clue i just bought the car like 3 weeks ago and all i know is that the radio is non-bose. but im guessing it comes pre-amp output.
In all my wisdom i broke my glove box trying to pry it open to replace the air filter without realizing there were pins holding the two tabs below.
I could buy some superglue and hope for the best, or i can buy a new one online. Question if i buy one online: they list several things under the glove box category, do i just buy the "glove box" or do i have to buy anything else? do i have to buy a lock cylinder and keys too?
In all my wisdom i broke my glove box trying to pry it open to replace the air filter without realizing there were pins holding the two tabs below.
I could buy some superglue and hope for the best, or i can buy a new one online. Question if i buy one online: they list several things under the glove box category, do i just buy the "glove box" or do i have to buy anything else? do i have to buy a lock cylinder and keys too?
Infiniti I35, parts from infinitipartsusa.com
If you could clarify exactly what you broke it would help. Based on your description it isn't clear. It may or may not be any of the following:
There are two tabs that hold the cabin filter cover in place. Is this what you broke? In order to do this you all ready had to have the glove compartment removed.
There are also tabs for the yellow SRS connections. Are you referring to these?
Are you talking about the holes that the screws go through that attach the glove compartment?
Or did you break the latch that keeps the glove compartment closed?
To remove the glove compartment you have to remove the screws inside the top upper edge of the glove compartment (meaning you had to all ready have it open) and then remove screws on the outside bottom edge. Then detach the SRS connection from the top of the glove compartment.
In terms of fixing the problem, most likely you'd be better off just going to the junk yard. It's cheaper and you can get exactly what you need instead of an entire assembly.
Here is what I hope is a fairly straight foward question:
When replacing the ECM/ECU, with a used one, do you need to get the exact part # (i.e. A56-XXX-XXX) or will any ECM/ECU from the same model/year car do?
So, if I pulled an ECM/ECU from another 2001 Maxima w/o traction control, would it work or would I have to match the A56 # exactly?
I have seen conflicting answers on various sites, so I was hoping I could get a conclusive answer to this question.
Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.
Thanks.
Last edited by NissanNewb; 05-17-2009 at 02:06 PM.
Hi I have a 2001 Pathfinder with factory navigation. It did not have a nav cd when I bought it. I have bought 2 cd-roms off ebay, one was version 5.1 and one 5.2. When I put them in it says map cd-rom version is incorrect. I checked and my truck has the program wxc22023.
Both of these cd-roms are meant for infiniti, but they say they work for both.
Hi I have a 2001 Pathfinder with factory navigation. It did not have a nav cd when I bought it. I have bought 2 cd-roms off ebay, one was version 5.1 and one 5.2. When I put them in it says map cd-rom version is incorrect. I checked and my truck has the program wxc22023.
Both of these cd-roms are meant for infiniti, but they say they work for both.
Does anyone know what I need to do?
Have you checked a...Pathfinder forum?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
It seemed that the people on this forum were the most knowledgeable on nav systems and issues. As far as I know the nav system is the same in the maxima and pathfinder, someone correct me if I am wrong.
I just happened to glance at my rear rotors the other day and noticed that they were both rusty. The car has been used, not sitting around, and the front rotors are clean, shiny and obviously worn, so it appears the rear brakes are not functioning. I had not noticed any appreciable loss in braking, so I don't know how long this has been going on. I drove around and used the emergency brake to stop, which did work and started cleaning up the rotors, but regular braking still does not heat up the rear rotors.
It apparantly isn't a mecahnical probelm but one with the hydrualics, either a problem with the master cylinder or a rear line leak, I'm guessing. I was under the impression, however, that a brake failure would cause the brake light to come on the dash, which it has not.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to how to troubleshoot what the probelm is?
I'm getting some common SEL's lately...P0138/P0158 and P1147/P1167. I know this is BOTH 02 sensors in bank 1 and 2.
My question is two parts...
1) Why on earth would these fail at the same time? Is it more likely a faulty reading? How do I clear the codes and wait to see if it comes back?
2) What would I notice about my car if these sensors did in fact fail? I'm noticing that my acceleration and gas mileage have been worse lately, but I really don't think it could be related. But I am a noob after all.
Thanks for taking the time guys, I know there are a million posts on these codes but I can't really find much on what I would notice engine-wise.
I just happened to glance at my rear rotors the other day and noticed that they were both rusty. The car has been used, not sitting around, and the front rotors are clean, shiny and obviously worn, so it appears the rear brakes are not functioning. I had not noticed any appreciable loss in braking, so I don't know how long this has been going on. I drove around and used the emergency brake to stop, which did work and started cleaning up the rotors, but regular braking still does not heat up the rear rotors.
It apparantly isn't a mecahnical probelm but one with the hydrualics, either a problem with the master cylinder or a rear line leak, I'm guessing. I was under the impression, however, that a brake failure would cause the brake light to come on the dash, which it has not.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to how to troubleshoot what the probelm is?
Thanks!
Sounds like the rear calipers are frozen. It is common on rear disc brake systems, when the caliper pins are not frequently checked and relubed.
Suggest replacing the rotors, calipers, pads, and bleed the hydraulics with fresh fluid.
__________________
winter beater: 2003 Maxima GXE
fun toy: 2002 JR supercharged Miata
wife: Ford Fusion AWD
kids: Civic, Integra, Mazda3
Sounds like the rear calipers are frozen. It is common on rear disc brake systems, when the caliper pins are not frequently checked and relubed.
Suggest replacing the rotors, calipers, pads, and bleed the hydraulics with fresh fluid.
Wouldn't it seem kind of coincidental that both sides froze at the same time? Plus, if they were frozen, the emergency brake would not engage either, would it?
Dumb question maybe but I keep reading how everyone is finding out that their ECU is coming back with error codes....How is everyone finding this out? Are you checking your ECU because your check engine light is on or just looking at your ECU to check for codes....The reason I ask is because my 01 5spd is only getting around 285 miles to the tank...Kinda low isn't it? Should I check my ECU for codes even though my check engine light isn't on?
Once again.........
Hey guys anyone know were i can pick up the wiring harness to install the 02-03 headlights in my 00-01. I know courtesy used to sell it but i cant find it on their website thanks. You can pm me it if you want to be confidential. Thanks guys
If you could clarify exactly what you broke it would help. Based on your description it isn't clear. It may or may not be any of the following:
There are two tabs that hold the cabin filter cover in place. Is this what you broke? In order to do this you all ready had to have the glove compartment removed.
There are also tabs for the yellow SRS connections. Are you referring to these?
Are you talking about the holes that the screws go through that attach the glove compartment?
Or did you break the latch that keeps the glove compartment closed?
To remove the glove compartment you have to remove the screws inside the top upper edge of the glove compartment (meaning you had to all ready have it open) and then remove screws on the outside bottom edge. Then detach the SRS connection from the top of the glove compartment.
In terms of fixing the problem, most likely you'd be better off just going to the junk yard. It's cheaper and you can get exactly what you need instead of an entire assembly.
Let me try to clarify: everything is alright. But when i tried to remove the glovebox, i was pretty clueless and "ripped" it out. So the two bottom tabs that have holes and pins that go through them that hold the glove box in place when you open it up are broken. I superglued them back to the glove box as a temp. fix. But i found some replacement gloveboxes on ebay that are way less than the $120 the dealer is asking.
If i go that route, can i just swap out the locks? or am i stuck with a glovebox with a lock i can't use?
I'm getting some common SEL's lately...P0138/P0158 and P1147/P1167. I know this is BOTH 02 sensors in bank 1 and 2.
My question is two parts...
1) Why on earth would these fail at the same time? Is it more likely a faulty reading? How do I clear the codes and wait to see if it comes back?
2) What would I notice about my car if these sensors did in fact fail? I'm noticing that my acceleration and gas mileage have been worse lately, but I really don't think it could be related. But I am a noob after all.
Thanks for taking the time guys, I know there are a million posts on these codes but I can't really find much on what I would notice engine-wise. Well if both of yur o2 sensors are throwing codes best thing to do is find someone with a scanner that is able to monitor the o2 readings. But first use a test light to see if the fuses to the o2's are good.Which ever o2 sensor is flat lining thats that bad one or two. Most likely one has faulted causing the computer to try to adjust your fuel which explans your crappy gas mileage and bad acceleration. Throwing codes, bad acceleration and bad mpg are all signs. If you only have one bad replace all of them. if one goes the others arent far behind. Id get the Bosh o2 sensors lil more expensive but they are problem solvers.
Last edited by PatKeo6373; 05-18-2009 at 06:10 PM.
hey guys i was wondering, cause i can't find 1 or 2 original 20th ae headlights due to my accident at a decent price, can i buy one headlight on ebay that pretty new but chrome and then take it appart and heat the chrome off. will it become the same color as 20th ae? and then wax the other headlight to have it the same shine or just buy new ones and not be cheap and regret everything? help please? lol
Let me try to clarify: everything is alright. But when i tried to remove the glovebox, i was pretty clueless and "ripped" it out. So the two bottom tabs that have holes and pins that go through them that hold the glove box in place when you open it up are broken. I superglued them back to the glove box as a temp. fix. But i found some replacement gloveboxes on ebay that are way less than the $120 the dealer is asking.
If i go that route, can i just swap out the locks? or am i stuck with a glovebox with a lock i can't use?
OK, I think I have a better handle on this now. On the inside of the glove compartment door opposite the latch you pull to open the glove compartment there are two screws. Remove the two screws. This will either allow the locking mechanism or the entire front side of the door to be removed. You can then either swap out the lock or the entire door that also contains you're original lock. And yeah, eBay has glove compartments for about $50.
2001 stalls, cleaned MAF Sensor, stalls just as bad plus after driving a few miles Tach stopped working and SLIP and TCS Off lights came on (no ses.) What do I do now????
2001 stalls, cleaned MAF Sensor, stalls just as bad plus after driving a few miles Tach stopped working and SLIP and TCS Off lights came on (no ses.) What do I do now????
Replace the MAF. Many people have gotten mixed results cleaning the MAF. The film in it is very sensitive and difficult to clean effectively. Call Dave Burnette. He can give you the best price on one. Search this site for his contact information.
With a replacement of MAF and diisconnect of the battery should that take care of the tachometer stuck on zero and the SLIP and TCS Off? Strangely, no check engine light.
hey guys i was wondering, cause i can't find 1 or 2 original 20th ae headlights due to my accident at a decent price, can i buy one headlight on ebay that pretty new but chrome and then take it appart and heat the chrome off. will it become the same color as 20th ae? and then wax the other headlight to have it the same shine or just buy new ones and not be cheap and regret everything? help please? lol
try Veng auto parts they supply body parts and wheels for body shops they should be able to sell u one.
i seen that one. i dont think its has it. Im tryin to figure out if its VQ30DE-K or a VQ35DE engine
You've got a VQ35DE. Like the guy above said all Maximas since 2002 have 3.5 liter engines (VQ35DE). It's on the firewall of your car in the engine bay.
Wouldn't it seem kind of coincidental that both sides froze at the same time? Plus, if they were frozen, the emergency brake would not engage either, would it?
It will engage but barely.
__________________
winter beater: 2003 Maxima GXE
fun toy: 2002 JR supercharged Miata
wife: Ford Fusion AWD
kids: Civic, Integra, Mazda3
Hey guys was wondering if an 00-01 maf will work in an 02-03 max. I remember some doing that on here but i can find the threads. Thanks for the help i just need to know what has to be done in order for it to work without throwing a cel
Hey guys was wondering if an 00-01 maf will work in an 02-03 max. I remember some doing that on here but i can find the threads. Thanks for the help i just need to know what has to be done in order for it to work without throwing a cel
I'm not sure if im doin this rite ,,,but here's my question,my speedo on my 01 max only will go up to 40 on dry days, but when it rains it's on point,,got any clue's Thanks
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