5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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I have a 2000 Maxima. What appeared to be a burned-out headlight has been found to be a disintegrated headlight connector, or "pigtail". I have about 15 hours logged to this task so far of finding a replacement.>>>>>>.
I would be thrilled to give someone a finder's fee that can hook me up with the right part or point me to it. I'd double it if they can have it to me by 9/5/08.
Just a follow-up. I finally did find a yard that had a 2000, and I'm good to go.
I would say go with the 35% tint all around (except for the windshield). This is the same darkness as the SUV factory tint. It's dark enough at night but not too dark.
I went with 35%, and am loving it. Just got it done today! Thanks to all of y'all for your help! Here's two shots:
How hard is it to replace your own brake pads? I've read the write-ups, but I'm not sure if I'm man enough. I can change belts, replace an ignition switch, and install a car stereo. That's the extent of my experience.
On a scale of 1-10, if changing your motor oil is a 1 and rebuilding the engine is a 10, what do you think replacing brake pads is?
3 - i think it really is meant to be a DYI job. Even with 3 i'm being conservative, maybe 2.5.
Help! I was under the car the other day, and for the life of me I cannot get the power steering belt off. I replaced the alternator belt with little/no problem, but even after loosening the power steering belt tensioner all the way, the thing still won't budge. I even hit it with a hammer! Must be doing something wrong.
hey i have a maxima se 01 and i plan on modding it. i want to know if all 5th gen. maxima's have the same parts. for example can greddy cat back exhaust from a '00 maxima be used on a 01 maxima. basically are all 5th gen. mod parts compatible to eachother. sorry for the newb questions but i must know, lol. thank you.
I went with 35%, and am loving it. Just got it done today! Thanks to all of y'all for your help! Here's two shots:
Looks just like my car except mine is dark green! Looks good, you may think it is a little on the light side during the day but you'll be find that it is plenty dark at night!
New to the site, just got a 2000 Maxima and need help.
My dash illumination lights goes out when driving with the lights on after 10-15 minutes. I have to switch the headlights off and back on for a brief moment for it to work again. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be? I did a search and could not find any relevant information other then that the dash illumination is a fluorescent bulb? Could this be the source of my problems?
My rear brakes seem to be locking up at times, I can hear the drivers side rear brakes squeeling and I can smell something burning on both rears after I stop driving. It also feels sluggish when driving so its quite obvious. But the problem is it only happens once in a while, I drove it 25 miles this morning and it was BURNING like fire, then drove it 25 miles back home and the brakes worked fine. It sounds like a computer problem, I searched and found that it could be the ABS computer, I recently changed the tire specs on my car from 50 to 45 series in the rear but this problem has been happening BEFORE I changed the tires, any suggestions???
I was just looking for any opinions on the megan and obx cattback for the 2000 maxima and if the greddy was really worth the extra the money. Also just wondering what suggestions there are for a performance intake thanks.
I forgot to mention that the owners manual states that the blinking light has something to do with the seat belt tensioner. But I have no idea why it would be turning on and off intermittently.
While I still have it at top of mind....a few more questions.
1. My e-brake gets stuck at the right rear wheel. Is this common? Car was in Michigan snow and salt for 6 years....boo. I have to crawl under car and use a metal pipe or something to free the spring/brake line area. For some reason when I brake and get the pedal past a certain point, I also hear a slight popping noise or something like that. Any thoughts?
2. Is it difficult to replace the hood cable? Has anyone done it and have pics to show me how to do it?
3. The headlights are getting dim since they are getting translucent on the inside. It seems like they just need to be polished. Has anyone cleaned the inside of the headlights and do they have pics or anything to tell me how to do it?
4. When the A/C is on, the fans behind the radiator kick on. However, they are somewhat noisy and vibrate slightly. Is that normal? The car was in a front end accident years ago. I believe these are OE replacement parts.
Hey fellow owners! I've been online for a while and browse through to help fix my little issues here and there. I searched this thread and many others to try to figure out 2 things but had no luck. Can anyone help me on the following?
My car is a 2000 SE:
1. The seat belt light comes on periodically and flashes continuously, even with the belt on. It does not happen every time I start the car.
2. For some reason, while going from LA to Vegas or LA to San Fran, when going up the mountain, I think the torque convertor unlocks and leaves the car out of overdrive. This happens probably around 2000 feet in elevation. It stays in 4th, so around 80mph and 4k rpm, killing my mpg. It doesn't go back to overdrive unless I come closer to sea level and shut the car off and wait a few minutes before driving off. DOes anyone have any idea what the heck is going on? I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flush and the dealer didn't know jack.....
also i was wondering what people do with the jwt filter if it can be attached to your aftermarket intake like berk or injen if berk is still even making their intakes. thanks again
2. For some reason, while going from LA to Vegas or LA to San Fran, when going up the mountain, I think the torque convertor unlocks and leaves the car out of overdrive. This happens probably around 2000 feet in elevation. It stays in 4th, so around 80mph and 4k rpm, killing my mpg. It doesn't go back to overdrive unless I come closer to sea level and shut the car off and wait a few minutes before driving off. DOes anyone have any idea what the heck is going on? I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flush and the dealer didn't know jack.....
Your car only has 4 speeds....not 5....so, your are stuck in 3rd gear then? Could be your trans solenoids, T/Q etc. Is your O/D light flashing?
Dealer didn't know jack? I find that hard to believe........
Newb here in the process of buying an '03 SE. Great car, great website. I've been doing tons of research.
My question -- just had some pics sent to me of a potential SE. Looking them over I noticed wood trim everywhere in the car. Was it ever possible to have ordered an SE with wood trim? I'm just concerned about possible re-badging.
To Torque or Not to Torque?...that is the question.
I need to replace CV Boot but don't have a torque wrench. Is it OK to just crank the shi* out of the hub nut and go back in within a month when I get the wrench and properly torque? BTW, I'm not doing the shaft because the tear is only a couple weeks old and about 1/4". Plus the shaft is 1.5 yrs. old.
I need to replace CV Boot but don't have a torque wrench. Is it OK to just crank the shi* out of the hub nut and go back in within a month when I get the wrench and properly torque? BTW, I'm not doing the shaft because the tear is only a couple weeks old and about 1/4". Plus the shaft is 1.5 yrs. old.
Advice Please!
Autozone type stores will let you "borrow" with a small deposit a torque wrench. I suggest you do that.
Disaster at both ends. Can't get spindle out of hub; tried hammer and swinging it out but nothing. I got the three bolts out of other end but can't figure out where to separate. There is an invisible seam where bolts were taken out that has no where to pry but there is another seam about a half an inch away that could be pryed but doesn't seem to be held by bracket (is that where I pry?)
Disaster at both ends. Can't get spindle out of hub; tried hammer and swinging it out but nothing. I got the three bolts out of other end but can't figure out where to separate. There is an invisible seam where bolts were taken out that has no where to pry but there is another seam about a half an inch away that could be pryed but doesn't seem to be held by bracket (is that where I pry?)
It's gonna take some elbow grease. Go by a Autozone and rent a puller tool.
I have 2 questions, both far apart from each other. 1) How do u take the orange out of the tailights and what red do u use to put back in? 2) has anyone ever used nitrous on there max?, what brand?, how big of a shot? Someone out there has to know.
*if this is the wrong place to post this then please let me know*
I live down in las Vegas and its seem like sports cars and anything with rims or even sounding loud is bound to get pulled over. But i need something to know where and when this cops are around cause iam getting pulled over for the sound of my intake and iam only doing 30mph and cops are throwing tickets at. I was coming out of a mall parking lot one night and the first light wasnt even a 150ft away...motorcycle cop pulled me over and said i was doing 50mph in a 30 zone I told him no way he said the guy on the bus stop told him it sounded like i was going fast some bulls*** like that so please someone give me idea so i can past on to the rest off my car buddies out in las vegas cause this sucks
*if this is the wrong place to post this then please let me know*
I live down in las Vegas and its seem like sports cars and anything with rims or even sounding loud is bound to get pulled over. But i need something to know where and when this cops are around cause iam getting pulled over for the sound of my intake and iam only doing 30mph and cops are throwing tickets at. I was coming out of a mall parking lot one night and the first light wasnt even a 150ft away...motorcycle cop pulled me over and said i was doing 50mph in a 30 zone I told him no way he said the guy on the bus stop told him it sounded like i was going fast some bulls*** like that so please someone give me idea so i can past on to the rest off my car buddies out in las vegas cause this sucks
So you are asking if there is some kind of magical device that will tell you where all the cops in your area are located??
__________________ 2002 Maxima GLE
Toyo Proxes 4 Tires on Silver TSW Vortex 18x8 Wheels (Warm Weather) | Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60 Tires on GLE Wheels (Winter) | H&R 15mm Rear Spacers | Brembo Blank Rotors - Painted Black | Hawk HPS Pads | G2 Black Painted Calipers | De-pinstriped | 35% Tint | Stillen Classic Front Lip, Side Skirts & Rear Valance | GReddy EVO2 Exhaust | Injen Black CAI | Tokico Illumina Struts | Tein H-tech Springs – Front | H&R Springs - Rear | Progress RSB | Stillen FSTB & Battery Tie-down | Grounding Kit | Blacked Out Headlights & Cleared Turn Signals | Blacked Out Clear Side Markers w/ Amber & Red 5-LED Bulbs | PIAA Xtreme White Bulbs in Fogs, Dome, Doors & License Plate | Fujita Oil Cap | AE Door Sills | AE Pedals | Momo Raptor Black Leather Shift Knob | Maglite Mount | Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD 7” Touch-screen Head Unit | Rainbow SLC 265 6.5” Component Front Speakers | Alpine Type-R 5.25” Coaxial Rear Speakers | 2 JL 10W3V3 Subs | JL Audio Slash v2 500/1v2 Subwoofer Amp | JL Audio RBC-1 Bass Remote | Alpine PDX-4.100 Speaker Amp | PAC Steering Wheel Control Adapter | Damplifier on Rear Deck | Dynamat Xtreme Trunk Kit
2001 Maxima. Woke up one morning, car wouldn't start. Took the battery to Pep Boys, they gave me a new one, put it in and the car started right up. This morning, same thing, car wouldn't even turn over. I played with the cables a bit, the alarm light came on, tried to start it and nothing, even the alarm light went off again. It couldn't be the battery, maybe the connection cables or the alternator? I still owe 3k on it and the rack and pinion is leaking. Should i just pay it off and sell it, or try to fix these things? thanks, this is my first post.
2001 Maxima. Woke up one morning, car wouldn't start. Took the battery to Pep Boys, they gave me a new one, put it in and the car started right up. This morning, same thing, car wouldn't even turn over. I played with the cables a bit, the alarm light came on, tried to start it and nothing, even the alarm light went off again. It couldn't be the battery, maybe the connection cables or the alternator? I still owe 3k on it and the rack and pinion is leaking. Should i just pay it off and sell it, or try to fix these things? thanks, this is my first post.
When you turn the key, do you hear any sound at all?
Start by making sure all the connections at the positive and negative battery terminals are clean and tight. (garsh, that sounds like good advice regarding dealing with women as well...)
Ok, I really would like to get a greddy SP2 catback, but they don't make one for 5.5th gens apparently. What is the difference between 4th gen and 5.5th gen catback exhausts? Are there any minor modifications that an exhaust shop would be able to make in order for a 4th gen exhaust to fit on a 5.5th gen?
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2003 6 speed TE
Looks: Superwhite LEDs Inside Smoked Side Markers
Performance: Stillen Intake with Custom MAF-TB Pipe, NWP Phenolic Intake Spacers, NWP Block Off Plate, Cattman Gen 3 Headers, Custom 3" Magnaflow Cat-back Exhaust
Suspension: Tokico Illumina Struts, Ebay FSTB, Progress RSB
I have a 2000 maxima that doesnt seem to accelerate evenly and may be misfiring. I know this is a bad way to describe something, but it just sounds bad. It seems to not be an issue when I accelerate slowly, but if I put a bit more pressure on the gas pedal, everything sounds out of shape. My mechanic(who seems to be an honest guy who doesnt milk me for every ounce of money) has told me that overall the car is alright. I have that infamous code for the ignition coil(#5 specifically), but I refuse to get that replaced just yet because it seems like from others' experiences, that even if you get a new one, within a month the Engine light comes on again. My mechanic told me that the code might be from my fuel injectors being clogged. Ive ran several tanks of fuel injector cleaner/seafoam through it but it doesnt seem to help much. He never mentioned the possibility of spark plugs being the problem. Any advice is appreciated!!! Im not too knowledgable with cars so go easy on me!
2001 Maxima. Woke up one morning, car wouldn't start. Took the battery to Pep Boys, they gave me a new one, put it in and the car started right up. This morning, same thing, car wouldn't even turn over. I played with the cables a bit, the alarm light came on, tried to start it and nothing, even the alarm light went off again. It couldn't be the battery, maybe the connection cables or the alternator? I still owe 3k on it and the rack and pinion is leaking. Should i just pay it off and sell it, or try to fix these things? thanks, this is my first post.
You might have something staying on and draining the battery. Jump start the car to charge it up and drive down to Autozone and have them check the charging system. They can tell if there is excessive draw on the battery when the car is off. Another way is to jump the car, run it long enough to charge the battery back up, then remove the negative cable from the battery over night. If it then starts up, you probably have something drawing excessive current when your car is off.
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2002 Maxima SE, NWP block plate, GAB, K&N panel filter, Vibrant FSTB, grounding kit.
hey guys, need some advice, i have my as light lit and i have a computer report for it saying that the speed sensor in my rear right tire is out.
the thing is the mechanic says itll be about 300 to buy a new sensor and install.
Is this something i should really replace asap or what could i do about it?
also there seams to be a heavy almost deep breathing sound coming out of the front end of my car, i have a stillen intake but I almost want to say its an exhaust issue, car is running just fine, it just makes that sound when i startup and turn the car off, it may be running alittle louder too. any advice?
thanks!!
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UCONN - ΣΧ
01 Max SE - Dark Red | Yokohama AVID | Stillen High Flow Shortram | More to come...
I have a 2000 Maxima that overheats after I have been driving for 4 - 4.5 hours at 75-77 mph. I can reduce my speed to 70 and the temp will drop a little, but I can turn the heat on and the temperature will go back down to normal. The last trip I took, I set the cruise at 70 and it still overheated about 4.5 hours into the trip.
I have 110K miles on it. Over the past year, the following has been done:
New thermostat
New starter
New front axels (needed CV boots, but it wasn't much more $ to replace the whole axels).
Any ideas on what might be causing the car to overheat after an extended period of time on the road. It has never overheated on trips shorter than 3 hours.
I have a 2000 maxima that doesnt seem to accelerate evenly and may be misfiring. I know this is a bad way to describe something, but it just sounds bad. It seems to not be an issue when I accelerate slowly, but if I put a bit more pressure on the gas pedal, everything sounds out of shape. My mechanic(who seems to be an honest guy who doesnt milk me for every ounce of money) has told me that overall the car is alright. I have that infamous code for the ignition coil(#5 specifically), but I refuse to get that replaced just yet because it seems like from others' experiences, that even if you get a new one, within a month the Engine light comes on again. My mechanic told me that the code might be from my fuel injectors being clogged. Ive ran several tanks of fuel injector cleaner/seafoam through it but it doesnt seem to help much. He never mentioned the possibility of spark plugs being the problem. Any advice is appreciated!!! Im not too knowledgable with cars so go easy on me!
Just bite the bullet and replace that #5 coilpack. Cheapest place I've found so far is Advance Auto Parts. It takes only a ratchet, an extension, and a 10mm socket to replace it yourself. The part costs less than $70. No amount of fuel injector cleaner in the world is going to fix your problem. If the SES light is flashing and the code shows misfire on #5, then it's 99.9% bad coilpack.
Hi guys I have a suspension question. Does anyone have a full coilover suspension and is it more cost beneficial than just getting springs and and some new shocks/struts. What I mean is if it's worth the money or can i get a similar responce from something cheaper?
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