5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
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Depending on your timeline / schedule, you might want to run her down to the local Auto Parts store and have them check it for free. I'm 99% sure that's what it is, but you never know.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
its not that $600 is a lot for a utec, or a good tuning devide like a utec, its more that i already got the full spec TS ecu and a vafc2 that i tuned with it, so i doubt i would pick up much with a utec. im just a control freak and want to have the tune control in my hands. the only reason i went TS before was to get the cvtc curves. now i wish i had just gone utec and gotten the v-manage later. o well. still nice to make 240+ w/o headers. i guess i should redyno now that my precats are gone huh? maybe later
Depending on your timeline / schedule, you might want to run her down to the local Auto Parts store and have them check it for free. I'm 99% sure that's what it is, but you never know.
The shop can't take it until Monday so, it will be a bad weekend with one car. Afraid to drive it now. Don't want to be stopped somewhere I don't want to be.
Thanks for all help. If any other ideas please let me know.
What's up guys?
So I have been dealing with this problem for over a year now. I have a 2003 Maxima, a few slight mods, nothing major, just stuff I have learned on these forums. I have a problem with my interior, I think..
No matter how many times or how well I clean it, the next day the inside is covered in dirt, it almost looks like some kind of dark engine dust. It gets all over the doors, sills and headliners. I have tried replacing the cabin filter, always closing the heating vents and keeping the windows rolled up most of the time. My only thought is that its coming from the engine through the vents on the dash. It drives me nuts, cuz it's a think black dirt all over the doors. Has anyone else had this problem, or maybe know what may cause this and what I can do to fix it?
Thanks ahead..
Are 4th gens lighter then 5th gens 2000-2001? If they have the same motor is it possible to bring a 4th gen to the de-k power levels? Are 5th gens really that much slower then a 5.5gen. God I don't want to be slow.
Thank you very much maxximaa. I peruse both threads, they are very informative and gives a good starting point for the average person.
I found and fixed this annoying problem, at least for now. I think it was a design problem, it only required some electrical tape being wrapped around the latch on the hood. Before doing this I noticed that my hood had a slight shake while locked, after applying the tape the shake is gone.
I actually had this problem in the past. I took it to the dealership and was charge a lot of money for a repair that only cost the price of electrical tape. I feel as if I was cheated out of my money and a way for them to get me back into their doors for such a minor problem. Technically the hood was never tighten at the dealership they just apply the same method of using black electrical tape to hide the real problem.
Thanks again
its not that $600 is a lot for a utec, or a good tuning devide like a utec, its more that i already got the full spec TS ecu and a vafc2 that i tuned with it, so i doubt i would pick up much with a utec. im just a control freak and want to have the tune control in my hands. the only reason i went TS before was to get the cvtc curves. now i wish i had just gone utec and gotten the v-manage later. o well. still nice to make 240+ w/o headers. i guess i should redyno now that my precats are gone huh? maybe later
You and I are a couple of the only 's that went AFC + F-Spec
But those numbers are not bad at all, and I think your car has a lot of potential, but... get some headers already
Quote:
Originally Posted by ultraviolet
Thanks for all help. If any other ideas please let me know.
If you've got the time and space, it;s not that bad of a job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ Linger
What's up guys?
So I have been dealing with this problem for over a year now. I have a 2003 Maxima, a few slight mods, nothing major, just stuff I have learned on these forums. I have a problem with my interior, I think..
No matter how many times or how well I clean it, the next day the inside is covered in dirt, it almost looks like some kind of dark engine dust. It gets all over the doors, sills and headliners. I have tried replacing the cabin filter, always closing the heating vents and keeping the windows rolled up most of the time. My only thought is that its coming from the engine through the vents on the dash. It drives me nuts, cuz it's a think black dirt all over the doors. Has anyone else had this problem, or maybe know what may cause this and what I can do to fix it?
Thanks ahead..
Interesting.. Before & after pics would help. First thing that comes to my mind is In Cabin Air Filter....& oil burner
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoonerFan
yes (ive owned both)
Apples to otranges. 4AT +3.0L & 6MT +3.5L
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRZ251
God I don't want to be slow.
It depends on what your definition of slow is.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
Anyone know if you can clean the MAF with some MAF cleaner from Autozone? They carry some Valvoline MAF cleaner. I've quoted three diff prices on MAFs today, one as high as $651 and one as low as $113. Also, anyone got a good how-to to replace it on an 01 Max. It looks fairly unbolt/rebolt but there's usually more to it. Thanks.
You might want to check out Dave B I believe he sells the MAFs for the 5th at 100 or so .
Replacing is a piece a cake. Just unplug harness unbolt from intake and their you go direct replacement.
Hope that helps
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Last edited by ae01maxine; 08-07-2008 at 12:16 PM.
Anyone know if you can clean the MAF with some MAF cleaner from Autozone? They carry some Valvoline MAF cleaner. I've quoted three diff prices on MAFs today, one as high as $651 and one as low as $113. Also, anyone got a good how-to to replace it on an 01 Max. It looks fairly unbolt/rebolt but there's usually more to it. Thanks.
MAF cleaner is often a very temporary solution. After you clean it drive for a day and if performance is dramatically improved you probably need a new MAF and just haven't tripped the code yet. Here's how you can tell: after you have enjoyed your day of thinking you are back to normalcy because it feels like your car is new again then take the next step; while engine is off unplug the MAF at the wiring harness connector and then start it up. Let it run for 1 minute and then shut it off, this will reset your air/fuel mixture adjustment in the ECU. After you start driving again if your ****ting performance symptoms come back and continue then call Dave B for a new MAF because it is still sending faulty info to the ECU and only drove great before because your Air/Fuel ratio was so freakin' tweaked. Around $105 out the door with 2nd day arrival (Your cost should be less because you are much closer to Texas than i am).
MAF cleaner is often a very temporary solution. After you clean it drive for a day and if performance is dramatically improved you probably need a new MAF and just haven't tripped the code yet. Here's how you can tell: after you have enjoyed your day of thinking you are back to normalcy because it feels like your car is new again then take the next step; while engine is off unplug the MAF at the wiring harness connector and then start it up. Let it run for 1 minute and then shut it off, this will reset your air/fuel mixture adjustment in the ECU. After you start driving again if your ****ting performance symptoms come back and continue then call Dave B for a new MAF because it is still sending faulty info to the ECU and only drove great before because your Air/Fuel ratio was so freakin' tweaked. Around $105 out the door with 2nd day arrival (Your cost should be less because you are much closer to Texas than i am).
yea I'd rather not do that.....
__________________
Megan Racing exhaust | Tokico Illumina's 4F/5R | H&R Springs | ebay FSTB | | ES Bushings | Goodridge SS Lines | Berk Air Intake | Cleared 2K2 Headlights | 8k D2R & 50W H3 Fogs upgrade | Cleared Sidemarkers | White LED's all around (Interior & Exterior) | Chrome Gauge Rings | 15% Tint (all around) | RTP Zinc plated Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS pads | RPM R-505 19x8.5 wrapped in General Exclaim UHP 245-35-R19 | Optima Yellow Top | Hella Supertones | (2) 12" Alpine Type R's
Anyone know if you can clean the MAF with some MAF cleaner from Autozone? They carry some Valvoline MAF cleaner. I've quoted three diff prices on MAFs today, one as high as $651 and one as low as $113. Also, anyone got a good how-to to replace it on an 01 Max. It looks fairly unbolt/rebolt but there's usually more to it. Thanks.
if its an 01...your MAF shouldnt cost any more than 100-150 bucks.....
as far as cleaner, like the thread with the link has...get CRC
__________________
Megan Racing exhaust | Tokico Illumina's 4F/5R | H&R Springs | ebay FSTB | | ES Bushings | Goodridge SS Lines | Berk Air Intake | Cleared 2K2 Headlights | 8k D2R & 50W H3 Fogs upgrade | Cleared Sidemarkers | White LED's all around (Interior & Exterior) | Chrome Gauge Rings | 15% Tint (all around) | RTP Zinc plated Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS pads | RPM R-505 19x8.5 wrapped in General Exclaim UHP 245-35-R19 | Optima Yellow Top | Hella Supertones | (2) 12" Alpine Type R's
If my MAF voltage readings are correct, could the MAF still be bad. I back probed it today and found all the voltage readings were right. Car still hesitates when accelerating and cuts in and out around 3000rpms. Couldnt be the O2 sensor could it? Thanks guys.
My inspection is overdue and it failed because the CEL does not come on when you turn the key. I've had the car for a little over a year so it looks like either the bulb is burnt out or the previous owner somehow disabled the CEL because it had problems with the coil packs going out. I've gotten the coil packs replaced but a mechanic who works specifically on Nissans told me he would need to take the dash board off to replace the bulb. I was quoted about $200 for the job but with my current limited income I'd like to find a way to do it on my own. Taking the dash board off and putting it back together looks like serious work so I'm not sure where to start if that's the case or if this is a simple job.
This is a 2000 SE model and everything else seems to be fine except for this. Does anyone know how to replace the CEL bulb or how to enable it if it has been disabled? I did a search on the forums and could not find a thread with the same problem. Thanks.
MAF cleaner is often a very temporary solution. After you clean it drive for a day and if performance is dramatically improved you probably need a new MAF and just haven't tripped the code yet. Here's how you can tell: after you have enjoyed your day of thinking you are back to normalcy because it feels like your car is new again then take the next step; while engine is off unplug the MAF at the wiring harness connector and then start it up. Let it run for 1 minute and then shut it off, this will reset your air/fuel mixture adjustment in the ECU. After you start driving again if your ****ting performance symptoms come back and continue then call Dave B for a new MAF because it is still sending faulty info to the ECU and only drove great before because your Air/Fuel ratio was so freakin' tweaked. Around $105 out the door with 2nd day arrival (Your cost should be less because you are much closer to Texas than i am).
There have been many members that have cleaned their MAF and been successful. Also, there have been many members that have changed their MAF and have not been successful UNTIL they got reflash. Just give the advice of a new MAF and stop 'ing.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
My inspection is overdue and it failed because the CEL does not come on when you turn the key. I've had the car for a little over a year so it looks like either the bulb is burnt out or the previous owner somehow disabled the CEL because it had problems with the coil packs going out. I've gotten the coil packs replaced but a mechanic who works specifically on Nissans told me he would need to take the dash board off to replace the bulb. I was quoted about $200 for the job but with my current limited income I'd like to find a way to do it on my own. Taking the dash board off and putting it back together looks like serious work so I'm not sure where to start if that's the case or if this is a simple job.
This is a 2000 SE model and everything else seems to be fine except for this. Does anyone know how to replace the CEL bulb or how to enable it if it has been disabled? I did a search on the forums and could not find a thread with the same problem. Thanks.
Go to the dealer and see what codes pop up. If any codes pop up ... then that means your SES light is . If that is the case, get a new dash from www.car-part.com, and transplant the bulb.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
It could be either the alignment, the tires (out of round) or wheel balancing.
thx a lot, gonna take it to aliment shop and have them to look at, 2 of my tires are actually already been poked by nails..i just put in those black rubber thing that wal mart sells to make them whole again lol..
it doesn't have an answer to the question about how the car shakes over 60mph, are u impling it's my suspension?
I didn't know it was the whole car shaking. I've got the problem housecor has about the seatbelt housing rattling. Are your tires balanced and front end aligned. It may just be more noticeable once you get going on the interstate. Wish I had more for you but suspension isn't really my thing.
How would I go about changing the plastic "guard" thats in front of the speedometer and stuff...someone cleaned it with wrong cleaners and its foggy and nasty now.
Hey everyone, I'm kind of in a bind and need advice from the technically inclined.
I have a 2000 gle w/ 118k. I took it to the dealer for a 60000 mile service and spent a pretty penny on replacing the ignition coils, spark plugs, and service. As they were replacing my burned out reverse lights they said the bulbs exploded when they put in in reverse and started checking out the wiring, said there was a short in the system and is something w/ the wiring harness. I got the car back and power locks and remote keyless stopped working. I took it back and they fixed both problems by reseting the ECU but said I probalby have a short somewhere and they need to check where the problem is (at 190 an hour to find the wire), said they need to rip up the floor and it should take 2 hours max but potentially up to 2 days! Then it could be a simple as putting wiring together or replacing the whole damn wiring harness.
Oh did I mention that my engine has been making a nice metalic ratling noise lately related to the air conditoning? The dealer says my compressor is going and they need to replace the compressor, blower dryer, let out the freon and put it back in ETC. They want about 3200 just for the AC.
So i need to figure out in short order wether I want to dump more money into this car.
Is the AC quote realistic? Does the whole system need to be replaced? Thoughts on the electical? Apparently I can't pass my VA state inspection w/ out reverse lights so that gives me till January.
Hey guys quick question about a 4th Gen max, I decided to post it here because I didn't wanna start a whole new thread about it....
'97 Maxima for $1900 (2100 with A/C Fixed)
it has 215,000 miles on it.... 5 speed
Lets just pretend for a moment... say that after I give the owner hell about every detail on the car (I read the thread in the 4th gen section on what to check on 4th gens), and everything seems to check out, hell lets say even the carfax checks out (even tho CF's aren't 100% accurate all the time).... Question is, should I still buy it? Even though I worship the ground that VQ's drive on, will this one hold up for another 10-20k? (Till I can get money to take apart the engine and do that 00VI or w/e it is I'm really interested in and other things while it's in pieces). Question is, will it be worth it? Or just keep waiting till another max becomes availiable?
Summary, HIGH mileage max, will test it out tomorrow morning to see if it's on the up and up, just wondering if I should buy or not even if everything seems to be fine.
Go to the dealer and see what codes pop up. If any codes pop up ... then that means your SES light is . If that is the case, get a new dash from www.car-part.com, and transplant the bulb.
So how do I go about actually replacing the bulb? I have no idea how to get to it in order to replace it.
i have a 97 maxima and i was just wondering how hard it would be to install the 3.5 6speed tranny in it? does it even mount up at all? i cant find anywhere that says anything about it. if not how hard is the 3.5 swap to do?
Hi guys i just got a maxima. its a 2000 and its stick. it has a starting problem, and i think its something minor. car only has 65k miles on it. There is a hose that was diconnected completely. i figured out where one end of it goes, but i cant figure out where the other end goes. here are two pics of the open end and connected end of the hose. where does this connect to? and could it be the reason why my car wont start right?
also, i attached links of videos of my car starting. it never actuaoly starts right. sometimes it cranks and cranks but nothing happens, and sometimes it knocks really bad till it starts. but when it starts it runs beautifully. what can the problem be! its really embarrasing havign to start my car infront of people. lol
my car has the same problem and it pops sometimes too but i do know my car needs all the o2 sensors replaced but i'm not sure what else it could be either.
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1997 GXE 5sp with Black leather, all power, lowered, 18's, intake, clear/black corners ~WORK IN PROGRESS~
Last edited by Frazee_97max; 08-10-2008 at 12:47 AM.
Well to make a long story short, i few weeks ago the wifes car was missing when cold and had no power. Turned out to be the MAF sensor. Replaced it with a NAPA peice and it rand great. The other day the SES light came on and Auto Zone said it was EGR. Well i read up on this great site here about how to clean the tube. I took the TB off and the tube was clogged so i took the EGR tube off and cleaned it. Replaced everything and started it back up and the SES light went off. BUT it now is missing at idle and if you put it in gear it misses really bad. You can rev the engine but it hesitates before it responds but revs good. I took it down the road and it will fly but it is missing like crazy at idle. Almost jerking while in gear. It is idleing around 600rpms. ANy help would be so great. I am so tired of this. I have torn it back down twice. It acts like a vacum leak but i didnt have any vacumn lines off.
Hi guys i just got a maxima. its a 2000 and its stick. it has a starting problem, and i think its something minor. car only has 65k miles on it. There is a hose that was diconnected completely. i figured out where one end of it goes, but i cant figure out where the other end goes. here are two pics of the open end and connected end of the hose. where does this connect to? and could it be the reason why my car wont start right?
also, i attached links of videos of my car starting. it never actuaoly starts right. sometimes it cranks and cranks but nothing happens, and sometimes it knocks really bad till it starts. but when it starts it runs beautifully. what can the problem be! its really embarrasing havign to start my car infront of people. lol
thanks guys!
I believe thats your tranny breather hose, and it stays disconnected. I remember seeing it disconnected in my engine ba as well.
so, it will be a bad weekend with one car. Afraid to drive it now. Don't want to be stopped somewhere I don't want to be.
's that went AFC + F-Spec 
'ing.
. If that is the case, get a new dash from 
Linear Mode
