5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
I doubt it would be legal to turn your turn signals blue, but I guess it depends on the area... If I was to do that, I'd be prepared to pay some tickets.
Besides, blue turn signals would look pretty gay.
__________________
-----------'02 Nissan Maxima SE----------------'96 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL------
sorry to revive a old thread but im actually trying to replace the orange bulb on my head lights with a blue one.. is this legal? is this possible? any bulb number guys?
i woulod honest and truely appreciate all your help as i am a newbie!
also im usually in the FL/Miami-Tampa and NY/New York City-Bronx-Queens Areas.. are they legal in these areas?
i know not the best question im just worried about tickets
<3
WELL what year is your car
00-01 use 1157 for the corner bulbs up the front
02-03 use 194 for the corner lamps
the sidemarker bulbs are all 194 for 00-03
Blue is illegal, i live in Baltimore....and i had blue sidemarkers and blue corners in my 01 headlights....I got pulled over constantly....i said to hell with it...now ive got all white LED's all the way around and no problems yet....drop me a PM and ill link you to my cardomain page so you can check it out....ive got some on there of the blue and with the white LEDs
IMO, the blue looks very ricey UNLESS you have a blue car....
autolumination.com would have sufficient LED's...just note that some of them go bad fast and start to flicker....if you have a system in your trunk it can cause the LED's to go bad faster in the rear corners and in the licence plates......
__________________
Megan Racing exhaust | Tokico Illumina's 4F/5R | H&R Springs | ebay FSTB | | ES Bushings | Goodridge SS Lines | Berk Air Intake | Cleared 2K2 Headlights | 8k D2R & 50W H3 Fogs upgrade | Cleared Sidemarkers | White LED's all around (Interior & Exterior) | Chrome Gauge Rings | 15% Tint (all around) | RTP Zinc plated Slotted Rotors | Hawk HPS pads | RPM R-505 19x8.5 wrapped in General Exclaim UHP 245-35-R19 | Optima Yellow Top | Hella Supertones | (2) 12" Alpine Type R's
Could use a quick answer to Caliper question please.
I have a 2000 I30 and I just replaced the pads and rotors but one of the calipers is sticking and i want to take it apart to lube the slides before the rotors and/or pads get f'ed up. Do I just need to loosen the bolts where the slides are located and then pull it apart?
I have a 2000 I30 and I just replaced the pads and rotors but one of the calipers is sticking and i want to take it apart to lube the slides before the rotors and/or pads get f'ed up. Do I just need to loosen the bolts where the slides are located and then pull it apart?
Yes...basically take the caliper and bracket off. Pull the slides and boots and clean everything. I would use brake cleaner to get everything clean. Check the boots for cracks or holes and replace as needed.
When you installed the new pads and rotors did you install new hardware as well? Re-using old hardware can cause the pads to drag.
Yes...basically take the caliper and bracket off. Pull the slides and boots and clean everything. I would use brake cleaner to get everything clean. Check the boots for cracks or holes and replace as needed.
When you installed the new pads and rotors did you install new hardware as well? Re-using old hardware can cause the pads to drag.
Holy crap. Hardware? What hardware should be replaced?
Im pretty sure it is not the VIAS. the car now can barely pull over 3k rpms unless it is going downhill (lol). dont worry, the car is now parked until it is fixed. new observations
the car is making that hissing noise much more obvious now. i can hear it at an idle and during normal driving. it seems to be loudest coming from underneath the car! this is weird to me.
and power is almost all gone. she barely does 65mph down the highway (and thats horrible considering it only weighs 2700lbs)
any more ideas? im tearing this thing apart tonight and it woudl be nice to have a few ideas of where to look first.
the bulbs are H4 at 8500K, i baught them off ebay, and went to PIAA to see if they were the right ones. Are they easy to install, and do you think they'll fit?
Im pretty sure it is not the VIAS. the car now can barely pull over 3k rpms unless it is going downhill (lol). dont worry, the car is now parked until it is fixed. new observations
the car is making that hissing noise much more obvious now. i can hear it at an idle and during normal driving. it seems to be loudest coming from underneath the car! this is weird to me.
and power is almost all gone. she barely does 65mph down the highway (and thats horrible considering it only weighs 2700lbs)
any more ideas? im tearing this thing apart tonight and it woudl be nice to have a few ideas of where to look first.
Well it makes sense to me that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. And a pretty bad one at that. Usually you don't hear them over normal engine noise. Check your vacuum lines first.
Well it makes sense to me that you have a vacuum leak somewhere. And a pretty bad one at that. Usually you don't hear them over normal engine noise. Check your vacuum lines first.
sounds sensible to check them first but if it was a vacuum line wouldnt the car start acting like this all at once? instead of slowly? and getting worse and worse?
new observation: very strange. when i hold the car around 1750 rpms (more or less) it hits some sort of fuel cut off with drops it about a hundred rpms before letting it climb up and drop it again. if i give it more gas it easily passes over this and runs smooth. its only when i give it that exact amount of fuel that it does that. AND when it does cut it off and drop the rpms, i can hear the hissing/sucking noise kick in for that small amount of time.
Ive decided to go with white lights instead of Blue thanks to Mr.HiTek
But now im just trying to figure out where i could get black/smoked sidemarker lenses for a 2000 maxi, front and rear?
hmm redrun that guide is interesting..
it seems while watching my mechanic replace my spark plugs he did not go through all that hassle at all.
he simply popped my hood did some unscrewing of the coild and reached back there and got the 3 sparkplugs out. without removing the extra stuff.. hmm
it was so easy i believe i can do it myself.
it was so easy he did it in about 20 minutes. (all 6)
it was so easy i gave him 40 bux not for the job but for wasting his time.
there surely must be an easier way (easier guide)
he did it in 20 minutes told me to start up the car. i did that and drove around and everything seemed awesome. i came back (stupid jk) and paid him.
sounds sensible to check them first but if it was a vacuum line wouldnt the car start acting like this all at once? instead of slowly? and getting worse and worse?
Depends on if a hole in the line is getting larger and larger. You won't know until you start checking it out.
Quote:
new observation: very strange. when i hold the car around 1750 rpms (more or less) it hits some sort of fuel cut off with drops it about a hundred rpms before letting it climb up and drop it again. if i give it more gas it easily passes over this and runs smooth. its only when i give it that exact amount of fuel that it does that. AND when it does cut it off and drop the rpms, i can hear the hissing/sucking noise kick in for that small amount of time.
This says bad MAF all over it. So when are you going to start doing something to the car? Lots of questions and not a lot of doing...
and does anyone reccoment any sparkplugs? i figure i might as well while im in there lol.
Somewhat applicable to the VQ30. The only difference is on the VQ35 you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the spark plugs. On the VQ30 you don't.
As far as spark plugs just go with OEM NGK platinums. Iridiums are a waste unless you have forced induction.
Hey all, was just reading up on switching the bose stereo with my aftermarket one. Can I start by putting in an aftermarket HU and subs/amp, and keep the bose speakers for now?
Also, I have an 01 maxima AE, what size of speakers are in it?
alright,so i bought an 01 SE with a DOHC 24 valve 3000 engine yesterday.its an automatic.i really dont know too much about cars.i know that i love maximas and i know that i want this car to go really fast.ive been looking at turbo kits but cant find a manifold to fit it.im open to learn about any upgrades i can get to boost this cars horsepower.any help would be much appreciated.any suggestions
This says bad MAF all over it. So when are you going to start doing something to the car? Lots of questions and not a lot of doing...
lol im working slowly here so i dont miss something
do you think at this point it would be wise to replace the MAFS and see what that does? I just put this one in a month ago but it was rebuilt and it does have a warrantee so it would not cost to replace it.
lol im working slowly here so i dont miss something
do you think at this point it would be wise to replace the MAFS and see what that does? I just put this one in a month ago but it was rebuilt and it does have a warrantee so it would not cost to replace it.
A rebuilt MAF with a warranty? That sounds very suspicious. Usually those do not come with any warranty at all on an OEM part. You can replace the part for about $75 I believe...it's been a while since I replaced mine.
Do a search for Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan. Tell him you are with Max.org and he will cut you a discount. Right now he is doing free shipping if the purchase is over $100. Tell him you need a new MAF, but not the whole assembly, just the sensor part. It will cut the cost considerably, versus going to the dealer to buy a new MAF.
alright,so i bought an 01 SE with a DOHC 24 valve 3000 engine yesterday.its an automatic.i really dont know too much about cars.i know that i love maximas and i know that i want this car to go really fast.ive been looking at turbo kits but cant find a manifold to fit it.im open to learn about any upgrades i can get to boost this cars horsepower.any help would be much appreciated.any suggestions
Search is your friend....but before you do forced induction, or even nitrous beef up that tranny. That can be done with a valvebody upgrade.
Yes...basically take the caliper and bracket off. Pull the slides and boots and clean everything. I would use brake cleaner to get everything clean. Check the boots for cracks or holes and replace as needed.
When you installed the new pads and rotors did you install new hardware as well? Re-using old hardware can cause the pads to drag.
Clean & regrease the old pins, reuse, not difficult to do. I would try that before buying new hardware.
Quote:
Originally Posted by on-the-rise
alright,so i bought an 01 SE with a DOHC 24 valve 3000 engine yesterday.its an automatic.i really dont know too much about cars.i know that i love maximas and i know that i want this car to go really fast.ive been looking at turbo kits but cant find a manifold to fit it.im open to learn about any upgrades i can get to boost this cars horsepower.any help would be much appreciated.any suggestions
Do a search for Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan. Tell him you are with Max.org and he will cut you a discount. Right now he is doing free shipping if the purchase is over $100. Tell him you need a new MAF, but not the whole assembly, just the sensor part. It will cut the cost considerably, versus going to the dealer to buy a new MAF.
The price depends on the year of the car in question, most namely if it is an 02-03. If you do in fact own an 02-03, this is good reading: Upgrading to stronger 2k1 MAF?
Pics are dead, but once you see your own parts, it's very straight forward, albeit a touch delicate.
If you have an 00-01 disregard the last link and a direct replacement. Keep in mind, you might need an ECU reflash, but don't worry about that until after the new pace is installed.
Either way, get a hold of Dave, and he will get you the best price.
Quote:
Originally Posted by foodmanry
Somewhat applicable to the VQ30. The only difference is on the VQ35 you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the spark plugs. On the VQ30 you don't.
As far as spark plugs just go with OEM NGK platinums. Iridiums are a waste unless you have forced induction.
On the VQ35, the difference in money is 1 or 2 dollars / plug. So if you had a 3.5L, I would go w/ Ir's.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
The metal clips that attach to the pads and the pad bracket.
Thanks Foodmanry, that makes sense. I couldn't think of anything that was hardware except for bolts and the slides. Do stores like autozone sell the clips (I'm going to replace boots as well) or do I need to order online?
[quote=NmexMAX;6543574]Clean & regrease the old pins, reuse, not difficult to do. I would try that before buying new hardware.
Thanks NmexMAX. Pulled the pins and cleaned them last night and caliper works perfect now although I still plan on replacing clips and boots. As far as not difficult, that's another story - took 2.5 hours. I don't think the pins have ever been pulled and greased EVER. Used a lot of PB and elbow grease and almost broke out the propane torch but fortunately it didn't come to that!
Thanks Foodmanry, that makes sense. I couldn't think of anything that was hardware except for bolts and the slides. Do stores like autozone sell the clips (I'm going to replace boots as well) or do I need to order online?
They might have them...but if you are going to order the boots, then just go to the dealer. Or give Dave Burnette a call. His number can be found with a search...
But the iridiums are really only good for 30,000 miles. You can get more out of platinums.
I believe you have Ir's and Cu's confused. If anything, the Ir's last longer than Pt's.
In the case of the 00-01, I would go w/ Coppers since they're easier to change than an 02+, and they're far cheaper (less than 2$/plug). So, even though you have to change them more often(30k), they're not as difficult.
However, in the case of an 02-03, Ir's might be the choice of some. Since all 3 grades cost very close to each other, and they aren't as easy to change, it would make sense to go w/ Ir's, longer lasting, same price.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
Just wanted to introduce myself and say hi. I'm just getting started with my fiance's max, '00 SE in green, so far I only put on Tein S-tech's. This will be our cruising car. I know the struts are blown, looking at Tokico Illumina's based on past reading (not looking at anything too harsh), but I've been unable to find any kind of DIY write-up converting the headlights to the '01's (I think that's the right year). I've tried searching, can someone point me in the right direction. thx and glad to be aboard
Josh
__________________
'00 SE - K&N, shaved, Tein-Htechs, spacers
'06 SE - K&N, shaved, C-mod grille
My other none Nissan ride:
A rebuilt MAF with a warranty? That sounds very suspicious. Usually those do not come with any warranty at all on an OEM part. You can replace the part for about $75 I believe...it's been a while since I replaced mine.
Do a search for Dave Burnette at South Point Nissan. Tell him you are with Max.org and he will cut you a discount. Right now he is doing free shipping if the purchase is over $100. Tell him you need a new MAF, but not the whole assembly, just the sensor part. It will cut the cost considerably, versus going to the dealer to buy a new MAF.
Tell them to go poop on themselves. You can get an OEM Nissan unit for less than 100$ as foodmanry stated.
oh wow. just to clear things up, we are talking about the same part here right? the MAFS? the little piece that connects into your intake and measures the airflow into the engine?
cause i already bought the part. and if does have a warrantee. so i might as well use it.
I am having a couple problems with my 00 Maxima SE.
I have read and search through the threads and have not quite found what I am looking for. I have found things that sound similar, but I am not sure if they are my problem or not.
The biggest concern I have right now is that on this past saturday I took it out and had absolutely no power when I stepped on the gas. I could drive it, but there was no pickup at all. It felt like I was driving a car with 40-50hp. It would just slowly pick up speed. At this time I was driving on the highway, and was able to just barely get it up to highway speeds and that was with some help from a downward slope. When I hit a hill it would loose speed, then feel like it downshifted (its a manual not an auto) and would loose even more power.
I did have it in at a mechanic to replace my starter (was under mechanics warranty), and he looked at the problem and said he suspected that it was the fuel pump/filter (he quoted roughly $550). In reading these forums, I thought that it might be the MAF or the fuel pump myself, so I am looking for help figuring this out.
Also, if it is the fuel pump, is there an aftermarket (found a bosch at Advanced Auto for $105- they say its OEM) pump to use or is it best to go with the OEM ($227 from local nissan dealer)?
I have read the how-to on replacing the fuel-pump and foundit pretty straight forward, however my mechanic says to pull it out you have to drop the fuel tank as it will not clear? Any truth to that (2000 SE)
Thanks
__________________
----------------------------------------------------
2000 Maxima SE
5sp
92k
I am having a couple problems with my 00 Maxima SE.
I have read and search through the threads and have not quite found what I am looking for. I have found things that sound similar, but I am not sure if they are my problem or not.
The biggest concern I have right now is that on this past saturday I took it out and had absolutely no power when I stepped on the gas. I could drive it, but there was no pickup at all. It felt like I was driving a car with 40-50hp. It would just slowly pick up speed. At this time I was driving on the highway, and was able to just barely get it up to highway speeds and that was with some help from a downward slope. When I hit a hill it would loose speed, then feel like it downshifted (its a manual not an auto) and would loose even more power.
I did have it in at a mechanic to replace my starter (was under mechanics warranty), and he looked at the problem and said he suspected that it was the fuel pump/filter (he quoted roughly $550). In reading these forums, I thought that it might be the MAF or the fuel pump myself, so I am looking for help figuring this out.
Also, if it is the fuel pump, is there an aftermarket (found a bosch at Advanced Auto for $105- they say its OEM) pump to use or is it best to go with the OEM ($227 from local nissan dealer)?
I have read the how-to on replacing the fuel-pump and foundit pretty straight forward, however my mechanic says to pull it out you have to drop the fuel tank as it will not clear? Any truth to that (2000 SE)
Thanks
My vote is MAF, get some SES codes, report back.
I do not think it is your FP. Before thinking about replacing your FP, perform a fuel pressure test. But, FIRST check MAF and codes you might have.
The fuel pump is in the tank so ... yeah.
Quote:
Originally Posted by on-the-rise
what is the needed work to put 22 inch rims on an 01? ive been told it can be done but ive heard so many different stories.
What stories have you heard?
Modifications depend on how low your suspension is. In your case, the items to pay attention to when purchasing ANY wheel/tire combo are theses:
What size wheel (diameter & width)
What size tire are you going with
And finally, and very importantly, what offset are the wheels.
After you have all of those, visit the wheel/tire forum and use the offset calculator and tire size calculator. http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheels-53/
Compare it to what you have on your car now. From there, take measurements and determine where you stand with respect to your new sizes.
Either way, w/ 22's, your speedometer will be off slightly, and you may have some rubbing issues depending on your suspensions et-up, width, and offset.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRun
oh wow. just to clear things up, we are talking about the same part here right? the MAFS? the little piece that connects into your intake and measures the airflow into the engine?
cause i already bought the part. and if does have a warrantee. so i might as well use it.
And yes, it is the same part. MAFS = Mass Air Flow Sensor, commonly referred to as a MAF around here. Measures air volume, tells the ECU how much to compensate AFR. Heated wire in our case.
I would return it and still get one from DAVEB, that price is
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
95 SE 4AT 235k Miles
quick question. (old time reader new poster) I was trying to find out the person I helped change their auto to manual it was a 4th gen, he is a moderator here I beleive. It was done In tallahassee Fl. at R and R truck and auto. His set up was nice and he knew everything about everything on maximas. He had z32 break setup. Just trying to throw a shout out.
__________________
Whered that VQ go??
1. 2003 titanium edit blacked out,Hks Exhaust, Jim wolf Pop Charger, 17Deg advance, Nex Coilovers, staggered 20" (yaya i know)
2. 2000 pearl white 5 spd all basic bolt ons g35 whls, it was good while it lasted.
3 87 stang Project 306ci built motor full susp. (in garage) its sloow .....
Linear Mode
