CraigSE

I'm at about just over 2,000K into my oil change and If the sump with filter holds about 4.25, I've added about a litre in 2000K. That's if that figure is correct.

Last time I did oil, I just added four quarts, and drove it for a day. it was a little low the next day from not being quite full. I topped it off then, and have added around a litre since.

So, its around 2.5 quarts on 5,000K kms.

prizmeye

I've always used standard oil (5w-30, 20w-50). Suddenly, it's "eating" oil (~2 qts discovered gone the ONE TIME in my life I allowed ~6,200 miles between changes!). I'm aware others may see this as "normal," per my research, but my cars are BABIED, I sell them @ ~145k, and they use NO OIL! I have 108k on this one (2002 SE). Just passed smog in CA easily, runs great, no leaks, etc. Two mechanic friends of mine inspected it and said it's ~normal, but get away from 5w-30 (no flaming, I'm aware it was dumb & I stayed w/ it too long). Thus suggested synthetic, but I've heard the same "leak inducement" downside from them, so I'm just going to go to standard 20w-50 and keep my eye on it....

prizmeye

I was told this esoteric theory about how a cheap oil filter blocks critical "binder molecules" that supposedly cling to the cylinder walls, "preventing the oil from getting past the rings," so one must buy a Fram or other name brand filter in a bid to reduce/eliminate oil consumption (assuming a healthy engine).

I'm an engineer, and I say that's just plain bunk! Am I wrong? Does anyone else have any insight into this one? I've used discount Dan filters my whole life, and sell my wheels @ ~145k w/ NO PROBLEMS normally.

prizmeye

The plug tube seal on that plug allowed some oil to get into the tube, but I've got no external leaks, per myself and 2 mechanics. Oil loss is significant, as I've previously stated.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

sure sounds like the typical bad rings to me

prizmeye

No. Issues like pre-ignition/pinging would occur earlier and would alert you first.

In the old days, people fiddled w/ timing routinely. Now, computers think for us. Remember, the computer determines the ACTUAL timing DYNAMICALLY; the 17 U used is only a static figure you set.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

yeah i know that now...that was years ago when i was trying to solve the problem

prizmeye

It's unfortunate nobody ever directed you to what California calls the "Bureau of Automotive Repair." (I realize the thread's old, but it may help future readers). Believe it or not, the BAR has MUCH weight in the industry, for reasons I've never totally understood; your state may have something similar. It's another way to put pressure on Nissan to do the right thing.

Nissan counted on your coming to the conclusion you did. That's really a shame for you and ROTTEN of them!

prizmeye

(I'm aware your problem was/is(???) "old news," but I'm hoping future readers...as I have been on this thread...will benefit from this newer activity, just as I benefited from your story).

Having worked on cars for years, I knew to do what it appears you were not advised to do early enough: I pulled the plugs. The 4 of the 6 I've been able to pull (incl the one w/ oil in the tube) are TEXTBOOK BEAUTIFUL. No evidence of oil burning whatsoever, it runs great, and it just passed smog. After I'd crawled around underneath, shined a light everywhere and couldn't find ANY oil, the two mechanics had a look (father/son) and were shocked @ how "new" my car looks underneath (CA weather is to credit, NOT ME!! HA!). Can it be that the 2 plugs that I cannot access until I pull the intake manifold just happen to be problematic? If so, it'll be like winning the lottery in reverse! Awaiting the gasket shipment prior to disassembly. The mystery still: WHERE is all the oil going???? (I've checked the coolant for contamination that would indicate a blown head gasket; looks "new.") No smoke, etc. Cannot figure it out!

I'm still reading the lengthy thread...how did you come out @ the end?

prizmeye

I've used that filter FOR YEARS and NEVER had a leak yet! The gaskets on oil filters are all the same. Some have a flat one, others an O-ring, but never have I had an issue; save your $$$ and go back!

prizmeye

I come from the contract world. I know that courts place MUCH WEIGHT on handwritten (or computer-generated) records kept by a (construction) contract administrator. I strongly believe (but cannot 100% prove, and it may vary by state) that my hand-written little notebook that gives the date, mileage, oil brand/weight and filter brand of each change WILL WORK in a claims situation. Though a dishonest person could forge them, the courts usually favor the consumer on such disputes. Again, I know the thread's old, but I hope to benefit future readers, as I have been.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

i (and many others) will disagree with this

prizmeye

Your trench was (is still?) so deep, I wish someone had told you about relatively economical, used engines from Japan that vendors install for replacements in the U.S. (My dad did it for his Toyota, and had a great deal on his hands). The Japanese emission standards are tougher, so they say, so they have engines available. OF COURSE, you'd have to verify the cylinder condition and DOCUMENT the warranty, maintenance, etc. to avoid a repeat!!!

prizmeye

My read says that their (NOT MINE) definition of "normal" is 1 qt per 3,000 miles. Mechanic (private, non-Nissan) tells me that's normal these days. I'm not buying it based on my experience, but I've got 108k miles, so I'll live w/ it.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE:

since this is starting to get more attention

continued to get the P0420 and cylinder misfire. replaced the plugs again and it was a little better. SES would come on every couple weeks for a year. removed the main cat and replaced it with a test pipe...the inside of the cat fell apart when i dropped it, small particles everyone from it being burned...still got the SES (precats were bad)

gave up on the car and sold it in march

the last time i saw the car

Rydicule

This worked well for my oil-burning problem as well.


I know most people complain about the reliability aspect of german cars, but I can fondly say that my car now burns a quart of oil in 15,000 miles. My maxima was burning a quart every 350 miles.

CraigSE

Do you really consider oil burning a reliability problem? I can't remember the last time I had a car that didn't burn oil and none of them were/are unreliable.

I don't necessarily love the fact my Max burns oil, but it also doesn't really hurt anything... I top off as needed with conventional oil and all is fine and dandy. She runs good and pulls strong (since VIAS delete especially)

If I wanted less power and NO oil burning though, I could whole heartedly recommend a DE-K powered Max. My dads burns absolutely zero no matter how far you go.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

it is a problem if it causes all the problems I had...an engine should not burn a quart of oil every 1,000 miles, and NNA agrees with that and admits that it is due to bad rings

CraigSE

Of course it shouldn't, I just don't think its a reliability issue. Maybe I'm just used to oil burning cars.

My Saturn is even worse... But it still runs like a champ.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Yes, 1 quart per 3000 miles is considered normal. The only thing I know Nissan claims is if more than a quart is burned in 1000 miles, that is excessive.

I know my car is using oil (a quart every 1200-1500 miles now) but some of that is definitely leakage, I can smell it occasionally on left turns when it drips down onto the exhaust. Both valve covers are leaking and spark plug change is due at the rate I drive by the end of the year so I am debating whether or not to spend the money on plugs and valve covers on an engine that by then will have 190,000+ miles on it, or just replace my engine with a low mileage used one.