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My stock sub has a really annoying problem of cutting in and out no matter how high the bass is turned up. I searched through some threads and found this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzyjay
Ok here it is down and dirty. There are three wires(black, orange and blue) going into the switch beside the sub and two wires(orange and black) leading out. On the side with the two wires, splice into the Orange wire and connect it to a + power source. I hooked mine to the red wire powering the trunk light bulb. Maybe one day I will do a nice write up.
My wiring doesn't seem to be the same as the description. Can anyone make sense of this? Do the colors change from certain years?
no idea, but i hooked my aftermarket amps line level inputs up to the output of the circuit board inside that black plastic peice around the sub, works ****ing great, what you should do is try putting a DC voltmeter on the output from the mini amp/crossover in the sub in that picture above and try and determine if it is the sub or the circuit board, then go from there
I had the same problem, but ignored it until I put my MTX 12's in. But, I was reading on here recently that the little black box that plugs into the sub has solder joints that can come lose. You may want to look into that, too.
__________________
Old: 2000 Maxima GLE, Sold
New: 2007 Subaru STI Limited, "The Gentleman's STI"
i'll give you the solution in very unclear terms, what you do is up to you... you can of course always replace it with a 33330" aftermarket sub
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
Buy an open air 8" sub and a small amp to power it. Thats what I am going to do very soon. The bose sub sucks, I just bought my car and its rattling like crazy (its blown)
I removed the "black box"... which wires are the positive and negative used to directly hook up the sub to the harness wires?
Quote:
Originally Posted by † ErV †
i'll give you the solution in very unclear terms, what you do is up to you... you can of course always replace it with a 33330" aftermarket sub
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
__________________ Cattman Headers, Cattman Y-pipe, Cattman High Flow Cat, Frankencar Cat-Back and Intake with JWT Pop Charger, JWT Lightened Flywheel, JWT Clutch, Unorthodox Undersized Crank Pulley, Throttle Body Restrictor Removed, Energy Suspension Urethane Engine Mounts, 17 deg Total Timing Advance, Eibach Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks, ADDCO Rear Sway Bar, Front Strut Tower Brace, Centerline Forged Aluminum Black Pearl 18" Wheels, 245/40 Toyo Proxes-4 Tires, 130 dB Fiamm Horns
I purchased a 2001 SE and the stock sub was missing. Nissan wanted almost $700 for a replacement sub. I just replaced the head unit(XM ready), ran new wiring, and aftermarket sub and amp for under $700. I got tired of trying to figure out the stupid stock amp. Just my opinion.
I purchased a 2001 SE and the stock sub was missing. Nissan wanted almost $700 for a replacement sub. I just replaced the head unit(XM ready), ran new wiring, and aftermarket sub and amp for under $700. I got tired of trying to figure out the stupid stock amp. Just my opinion.
__________________ Cattman Headers, Cattman Y-pipe, Cattman High Flow Cat, Frankencar Cat-Back and Intake with JWT Pop Charger, JWT Lightened Flywheel, JWT Clutch, Unorthodox Undersized Crank Pulley, Throttle Body Restrictor Removed, Energy Suspension Urethane Engine Mounts, 17 deg Total Timing Advance, Eibach Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks, ADDCO Rear Sway Bar, Front Strut Tower Brace, Centerline Forged Aluminum Black Pearl 18" Wheels, 245/40 Toyo Proxes-4 Tires, 130 dB Fiamm Horns
i'll give you the solution in very unclear terms, what you do is up to you... you can of course always replace it with a 33330" aftermarket sub
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
__________________ Cattman Headers, Cattman Y-pipe, Cattman High Flow Cat, Frankencar Cat-Back and Intake with JWT Pop Charger, JWT Lightened Flywheel, JWT Clutch, Unorthodox Undersized Crank Pulley, Throttle Body Restrictor Removed, Energy Suspension Urethane Engine Mounts, 17 deg Total Timing Advance, Eibach Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks, ADDCO Rear Sway Bar, Front Strut Tower Brace, Centerline Forged Aluminum Black Pearl 18" Wheels, 245/40 Toyo Proxes-4 Tires, 130 dB Fiamm Horns
If anyone is interested in putting in a new free air 8 inch sub..I just did so...The ID sub is great..will take some time to get the bass eq and gains set right...just look in the audio forums for a thread called proud new owner of ID v8 sub.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car.if you look, can't miss it
I am not tring to argue here...
how is that possible.... seems like a waste AND it doen't work...
i have this black box plugged into an amp and it pops everytime i start the car....maybe cause it is amplified but still seems like a waste i will look at it again tonight and see what it might be for my own curiosity.
here is how mine is plugged in after the black box (whatever it does - i am not going to argue, do not care what it does, do not care why it is there) died on me and caused the sub to cut out intermittently:
the cable from the car plugs in straight into the sub after you take the cable in between them out.
like so
fits right in...
i've had it this way for over 2 years now. i had to do some wire untangling to get to it i think but it's not that bad. you don't have to take the rear deck out. i think i just popped the bose (take the cover off, unscrew the sub and lift it from inside the car) sub out and put it back in from inside the car. easier imo than taking everything out from the trunk.
mine does the same cutting in and out. your talking about this black box???? I have no black box beside my subwoofer or anywhere around my subwoofer. does it matter that I have a AE??? or do you have pictures of this black box. b/c in the pictures above i don't see any black box.
look at the plugs. in stock setup there are two wrapped around in black rubber and some other stuff.
i am not aware of any changes to the sub design so i dont know what to tell you. the black box is maybe 2x1 inches and it was pretty well shoved somewhere in there. you will probably never see it unless you pop the sub out and look.
I must be the only person here with a fully working Bose system in my 5th gen.I get great play back from homemade cds.Maybe I just got lucky.I get fair thump and no trunk rattle.
Yeah the bass doesnt shake windows down the block, but I'm adding a pioneer 12" sub and 380watt amp.
That should add a little low end.
^ Yeah, screw the Bose sub... Mine has never worked, except for a few (<5) times for a few seconds. Here's a pic of the "black box," only one I could find conveniently. It's underneath the black form.
__________________
Old: 2000 Maxima GLE, Sold
New: 2007 Subaru STI Limited, "The Gentleman's STI"
Hahaha^ Nope, definitely don't have that on my unit. Must have been fazed out for 2001. I took my sub appart and soddered the power and ground connections which seems to have made a little difference (bass stays on longer before cutting out). What's funny is that if I beat on the sub with my hand after it's cut out it works again...
here is how mine is plugged in after the black box (whatever it does - i am not going to argue, do not care what it does, do not care why it is there) died on me and caused the sub to cut out intermittently:
the cable from the car plugs in straight into the sub after you take the cable in between them out.
like so
fits right in...
i've had it this way for over 2 years now. i had to do some wire untangling to get to it i think but it's not that bad. you don't have to take the rear deck out. i think i just popped the bose (take the cover off, unscrew the sub and lift it from inside the car) sub out and put it back in from inside the car. easier imo than taking everything out from the trunk.
when you said 'black box', i took that to mean the black enclosure on the bottom of the speaker! i tried to bypass that and it does not work (for anyone else that thought like i did). i've given up and will fork out the money for replacing the entire bose system (crap).
__________________ Cattman Headers, Cattman Y-pipe, Cattman High Flow Cat, Frankencar Cat-Back and Intake with JWT Pop Charger, JWT Lightened Flywheel, JWT Clutch, Unorthodox Undersized Crank Pulley, Throttle Body Restrictor Removed, Energy Suspension Urethane Engine Mounts, 17 deg Total Timing Advance, Eibach Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks, ADDCO Rear Sway Bar, Front Strut Tower Brace, Centerline Forged Aluminum Black Pearl 18" Wheels, 245/40 Toyo Proxes-4 Tires, 130 dB Fiamm Horns
^ The black enclosure on the bottom of the sub is actually the sub amp. You don't really need to replace everything Bose; just the headunit and sub.
Yeah, I realized what the device was once I had torn it apart!
What is the other electrical device that looks like an amp that resides under the parcel shelf (passenger side)? I thought that was the subwoofer amp...
Thanks for the info!
__________________ Cattman Headers, Cattman Y-pipe, Cattman High Flow Cat, Frankencar Cat-Back and Intake with JWT Pop Charger, JWT Lightened Flywheel, JWT Clutch, Unorthodox Undersized Crank Pulley, Throttle Body Restrictor Removed, Energy Suspension Urethane Engine Mounts, 17 deg Total Timing Advance, Eibach Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks, ADDCO Rear Sway Bar, Front Strut Tower Brace, Centerline Forged Aluminum Black Pearl 18" Wheels, 245/40 Toyo Proxes-4 Tires, 130 dB Fiamm Horns
What is the other electrical device that looks like an amp that resides under the parcel shelf (passenger side)? I thought that was the subwoofer amp...
From what I've read, that's the amp for the rear speakers.
__________________
Old: 2000 Maxima GLE, Sold
New: 2007 Subaru STI Limited, "The Gentleman's STI"
wow, I thought the box under the passenger side was the sub amp also, thanks for the info.
Hooper, what size sub did you replace the bose one with? that looks nice, and how does it sound, I have a 10" sub that's in a box right now, I might have to try that out if it fits.
wow, I thought the box under the passenger side was the sub amp also, thanks for the info.
Hooper, what size sub did you replace the bose one with? that looks nice, and how does it sound, I have a 10" sub that's in a box right now, I might have to try that out if it fits.
i used an 8", but its supposedly a 900watt sub so it actually sounds pretty good. i have it tuned just right so if i want bass i can have it and can turn it way down if i dont want it just by using the stock radio. you probly wouldnt be able to get a 10 in there as the 8 is just barely small enough
i used an 8", but its supposedly a 900watt sub so it actually sounds pretty good. i have it tuned just right so if i want bass i can have it and can turn it way down if i dont want it just by using the stock radio. you probly wouldnt be able to get a 10 in there as the 8 is just barely small enough
Were you still able to have the Bose woofer speaker cover installed?
__________________ Cattman Headers, Cattman Y-pipe, Cattman High Flow Cat, Frankencar Cat-Back and Intake with JWT Pop Charger, JWT Lightened Flywheel, JWT Clutch, Unorthodox Undersized Crank Pulley, Throttle Body Restrictor Removed, Energy Suspension Urethane Engine Mounts, 17 deg Total Timing Advance, Eibach Springs, Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks, ADDCO Rear Sway Bar, Front Strut Tower Brace, Centerline Forged Aluminum Black Pearl 18" Wheels, 245/40 Toyo Proxes-4 Tires, 130 dB Fiamm Horns
Sound deadening did WONDERS to my OEM Bose sub. The bass is incredible. I've totally eliminated my plans of redoing the system.
+1, Second Skin Audio FTW!!!! The bass now in my car sounds "contained" and "tighter" (non-tech adjective coming from a non-audio person), but also much louder somehow.
But, I was reading on here recently that the little black box that plugs into the sub has solder joints that can come lose. You may want to look into that, too.
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