Hoooper

yeah, if you sat inside the only way you know its there is to hear it, most people cant believe how good the stock sub is...lol

yeah, sound deadening was really good for both the BOSE and my aftermarket

jenk01SE

I thought all the Bose 'amps' were located on/near the speakers...

Hoooper

nope, guess not

jenk01SE

OK,well...Explain this...Why would the woofer and front speakers have the 'amps' on/near the speakers but not the rear speakers? BTW, if the rear speakers had a dedicated amp, why do they hardly put out any sound?

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

BOSE does not do "high-output" as many audio enthusiasts know. They have their own secret lab to design crazy little passages so they can charge you as much as possible for the smallest speakers by making it sound like a bigger, more powerful system. You can tell i must love them because of the seething sarcasm contained herein. Another primary reason why the output of the rears seems skewed is because the open-air design of the sub in the back is using your entire truck like a speaker enclosure, while the rear speakers have to make due being shoved down where i guess some engineer thought that your feet has ears. If you look at alot of automotive designs, 2 observations i've made usually stick out.

1) the most balanced sounding systems (to the driver) have larger speakers in back. (usually your backseat passengers will complain of the system being too loud, but who cares about them anyway? :P )
and
2) the best soundstage setup is to have the speakers up in the front of the dash right near the window, and all the way back along the rear deck. Sucks for backseat riders, but I had a Chevy Lumina that had a setup like that and aftermarket speakers all around with and eclipse headunit, and the soundstage was astounding. it literally sounded like there was tons more space in that car and the speakers were off where the wheels should be. Very enveloping, and usually got comments like "this is the best setup i've ever heard" and mind you, i had pioneer 4x6s i got for free in the front and no external amp for the deck speakers.

Hoooper

does it really matter? it is how it is and theres nothing you can do about it. if you dont like it replace it all with aftermarket. they put out the same amount of sound, its just hard to tell because your head is in the front. stick your ear in the front speaker, then the back one. theyre the same. if not you have the sound faded to the front.

asianstyle

iTrader: (1)

hooper, I just got my 10" sub to fit in the rear deck. I was wondering since you have that 8" 900 watt sub in the rear deck, if it rattles the rear deck? I have alot of rattle that I can't get rid of. it's just the rear deck part that rattles. would dynamat solve the problem?

MESHUGGAH

I recenty bought a used 2001 Maxima SE 20AE. The stock bose sub and speakers work fine. Although before I bought this car I was in the process of buyin' a nicer sound system (which sadly it is incomplete...) consist of a Pioneer GM-7200M Amplifier (800W/max - 400W/nominal at 2ohms), two 12" Pioneer TS-W306C/DVC (1000W max) subs, and two Pioneer TS-G950M (220W max) 6" x 9" speakers ( I dont think these fit in the Maxima..). I'm missing tweeters, front speakers, a cd deck and some wires.

Anyways I'd like to install my sexier sound system but I know NOTHING about the Bose system that's already in my car. All I know is that the entire thing is 200W max. And that Bose speakers run at 1 ohm?! (according to what I read somewhere on this site...) Can anybody help with the specifications of the bose system? And is there any way to re-wire so that my steering wheel (volume/track/mode) controls so they work with my new sound system? thanks

mattj10

wow..ok I am officially confused with the whole bose thing. I have a 2k max with bose and i'm not too happy with the sub in it so..

how does the system work? I was thinking about replacing the stock sub with a 8" after market and amp like hooper did, but how does the wiring work on that? can you just use the wires that were already going back to the stock sub from the head unitand plug them to the amp somehow? what adapters would be needed?

my other option (i thought anyway, but i'm not so sure about it now) was to just leave the 8" bose and add an amplified sub like the bazooka tubes or something comparable for a simple, clean look with some added bass. in that case... how would you do that? where would the stereo output to the amp from the head unit come from? and what kind of wires would i need (besides the power wires). basically, how would i do it?

oh, and sorry to get off topic, but is there an easy way to connect an ipod interface to the stock bose head unit? i have been looking around both on this site and pac-audio but could not find anything that seemed to be nissan compatable, let alone nissan bose (and is there a difference in connectors and stuff?)

thanks,
Matt

Hoooper

for the wiring, they way i did it using the stock bose head unit, you have to get an RCA adapter and a remote antennae adapter. not for the actual antennae cause there isnt one, thats just what amps use for the power switch. then there are the typical ground and power wires from the battery and to the chassis. i would get it done by a well known shop as i wouldnt want to approach it on my own.

to asianstyle: my rear deck did rattle a lot, but you can stuff peices of paper between the rear window and the deck to make it stop.

HotshotVQ35

iTrader: (5)

i took out the blose sub and put in an infinity Basslink. sounds great!

darrelfsu

My subwoofer stopped playing after cutting out excessively. Under the hood, there is a fuse labeled "SPEAKER"; I replaced the fuse and the subwoofer worked like a charm ever since.

monty31

iTrader: (1)

I really hope you're right...

choopster

I have a gxe and i was wondering if i can put stock subwoofer. Also can anyone tell me whats the third clip for (it has three wires connected to it).

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

yea u got a point there........a little dynamat helped that out alot....if any one is intrested, this site is VERY LEGIT AND SELLES IT FOR CHEAP

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...0046/set_num/2

Patrick.R

I just tried this and my sub didn't work.

So all you did was take the black box out and the two clips that redirect the wires? then go staight to the clip?

K, I know my proablem is in the little block box with the circuit board inside because when I played with the wires leading into the black box my sub would come back on,but now that its been colder the sub has been out for awhile.(might not be because of the cold though ,might of just been time for it to crap out)

When I opened up the case on the circuit board all the sauder spots looked fine, none of the wires were loose.

Has anyone tried to replace that circuit board with any sucsess? or change the the black box on the circuit board ?

I just want the sub back without having to replace the hole system.

Patrick.R

anyone................?

aahmad23

Has anyone figured out what solution is to the subwoofer cutting out? I have an 03 135 that has started doing this and it is getting extremely annoying. I will try replacing the fuse and see if that works.. but I was hoping someone here would know the answer!

coooter_13

I have the same problem. 2001 I30 with a sub that cuts in and out.

I took the black enclosure off the sub and looked at the inside. The relay inside the metal enclosure appears to be the culprit. The reason I suggest this is because if you tap on it (lightly) with a plastic tool (screwdriver handle) the sub turns on.

It definitely sounds like we're all experiencing the same or very similar problem. Anyone have any luck getting a replacement?

zhuleek

iTrader: (1)

funny

TechFanatic2050

If your problem is the Relay, I have 3 left... only $15 each; Replace it and done... Here is a link with the specs of the Relay
http://datasheets.ru/datasheets/4680...a-CQ1-12V.html

Here is how to get it:

email me @ erabc123@gmail.com

First come first served, send me a private message if you don't wanna wait on ebay. Good luck.

nycibbyryder

Sounds to me like this Bose system just sucks. No offense to anyone that likes it. In my last altima I had (97), I built a custom 6.5" enclosure for the front doorS and dremeled out larger 6x9 holes in the rear. Used a pioneer head w/ infinity kappa 3 way 6.5" rounds in the front and 3 way 6x9's in the rear deck. this Bose system in the max just sounds unbalanced to me... Think I'm gonna have to start Chopping at the rear deck again... Before I do that though does anyone have a setup that sounds better than what I just mentioned? I mean stock speaker sizes don't mean much to me as long as there's depth clearance but I really like infinitys 6.5 rounds so I'll leave the fronts, just the rears I'm interested in really. I plan on putting in the avic-z130bt nav unit also.

Btw dynamat around that bose sub REALLY helps. Makes it sound half decent. Didn't have a problem w/ it cutting out though

Roymg

Relay? I thought that was a frequency crossover network circuit board located in the lower part of the speaker.

Roymg

That amp may drive the sub and the two rear speakers located in the doors. I have an 03. I tried disconnection of the plug and sprayed it with TV tuner cleaner. No go first time . Did it again later on and now working.

Roymg

What keeps the outside plastic speaker grill cover in-place? Does it just snap in? I can't beleive that you have to remove seats to take that speaker out even though I have seen references made both ways in this forum.

PlainwhiteGLE

THIS IS THE FIX. I knew if I kept sifting through all the "junk the stock system and replace it with aftermarket stuff" posts, I would find the answer. Just find the relay at your local electronics store or buy it on ebay (Panasonic p/n CQ1-12V $10+S/H). You will need to remove the amp from underneath the speaker and take it apart. The grey box-like component is the relay. You will need to de-solder the old one and re-solder the new one. A solder-sucker is a real lifesaver here. I will try to post pictures of mine later.

pariiah

I have to thank you for the suggestion of bypassing the "little black box." My Bose sub hasn't worked in 3 years. I checked everything humanly possible to try to figure out the problem and could never figure it out for all this time. 2K max by the way.

The "box" we are referring to is connected to the same plate as the sub. It is located to the left of the sub as you look at it from the trunk. It is covered in foam so you cant really tell what it is. All I did was disconnect the wire that comes from the head unit to the base of the sub. Next I disconnected the wires that led to the "box", then I connected the wires coming from the head unit to the spot where the "box" was connected to the sub.

Thanks once again I had forgotten just how good the sub actually sounds. The lifespan of mine is limited since I have 2 Alpine Type R 12's waiting to take over their job. I will enjoy them though while I spend the next couple of weekends sound deadening the car in preparation for the drastically Improved system going in.

Been reading the site for years but had no reason to post until now. I'm glad that my first post was a thanks instead of a Oh God Help Me Please post.

chopstic

Nice, I just replaced that relay and now my sub works perfect. Thank you, thank you , thank you. By the way, iy was only $4.50 at digikey.com

Darkness

Do you have any pics?

Darkness

Do you have any pics of your setup?

Darkness

Do you get a pop sound on startup and shutdown?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Amplifiers like what is built into the sub will pop like that because they have power to them when the audio source (i.e. radio) is turned on or off. Check and see if the sub power is being turned off when the radio is turned off.