DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Well, that's an interesting question. Maybe manufacturers looked at the ground clearance of a brand new car where springs have not sagged yet.

To get a more accurate estimate on how your car will look check out these cardomain websites (all these guy got Maxspeeds)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/417747/1 - SEmy2K2go's car

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/734886 -GBAUER's car

http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/335521 - Lontar1's car

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/442543 - irish44j's car

jafo2com

Thank you for the response DrKlop. It's no big deal really, I was just curious. For all I know it could be something as simple as a typo.

soundmike

iTrader: (24)

There could be another explanation for that - worn struts.

When i initially had my Maxspeeds on oem struts, the drop was actually lower and for a while it seemed like it wouldn't stop going down.

Then after about 10k miles it ocurred to me that my struts may already be worn. After i swapped them out for GR2's the drop was actually noticeably higher than when i had the oem struts. I've had the GR2's for about 15k now and the drop has stayed even since i first had them on.

Maxz Max

Guys,

I'm looking to drop my car and not to sure of what to do, every person I speak to tells me something different.

I was going to get the Eiback Pro Kits & Tokico HP Series (Shocks and Stuts). Til someone told me to get a DAMPENING Kits ( K Sport Kontrol Coilover Dampening kit)

Would anybody have any insight on this lil issue that I have???????

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

I have listed all advantages and disadvantages of coilovers in post # 74.

If you plan to use spring/shock combo instead of coilovers it's better to get adjustable shocks so you can match damping force with your spring rate.

Also check out this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=461186 Boss Chen coilovers seem to have all the advantages other coilover systems have and at the same time the are relatively soft and reliable.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I have started lookin at the chens too. If company could make a coilover thats as reliable as a spring/strut combo with a decent ride I would probably go for it. But Klop your always thinkin the same as me. Did you decide on what setup your gonna go with yet?

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Nah man, I have to find out how much it is to professionally corner balance the car with coilovers. If I can afford that I will probably go with boss chans, if not it'll be either h-tech will illumins or Eibachs with Konis. h-tech/illumin combo got many positive reviews in my other thread.(link's in my sig)

I will be asking local guys to drive me around as I'll get closer to the point of lowering. If everything goes the way I planned I should get done with suspension before June.

rtruchardson

My 2000 has a 100,000+ Miles and I know it is time to replace the Shocks. What is a good brand to go with? The ride is still rather good;no bouncing or bottoming out when I go over bumps. Thanks

friedbacon

is there a thread on eibach vs h&r? i can't seem to find the link to it. Can someone please post the link?
thanks.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=Puppetmaster]Progress springs are soft and can be bouncy. I used to think that it was my HP struts that were the issue, but I realize now after playing around with the Illumina settings that the springs are indeed soft. I was under the impression that I need higher Illumina settings for them because of the drop, and used various combinations of settings 3-4. Loved the handling, but the ride was a tad harsh, obviously. I tried 2F 3R and it rides awesome now. Despite what I've said in the past, setting 2-3 dampers these springs sufficiently and provides a really nice ride. And yes, you will bottom out if you hit any large bumps because these springs are soft and low.

{QUOTE]

I'm still scratching my head on my own progress/illumina setup. I've tried multiple settings, and although i agree different settings on the struts make DRAMATIC changes in susp. perf -- mine is still bottoming-out on every damn thing in the road.
I REALLY don't think my struts are blown, as there is no obvious leaking fluid or anything like that. However - the two things that people neglect to mention when comparing susp. setups are 1) TIRES 2) Bumpstops.

I SUSPECT that my worn-out Kumho 712's are to blame for some of my issues. I'm going to get some new ToyoProxes4's soon, and hopefully that might help. However, I DID trim my bumpstops substantially, and I'm wondering if that has effected my overall "happiness" as well.
I DO know that my setup bottomed WORSE before the bumpstops were trimmed, so I think I can isolate it to the tires or springs.

Guys: when reporting susp. setup impressions, please mention tires and bumstop trim status -- I think it will help to get a more unified subjective opinion of overall susp. performance.

TWO years later, and I STILL don't know what to put on my car to make it PERFECT for my driving style.

gr

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

Klop....add:

Canuck Motorsports Springs (00-03 Maxima)
Drop 1.8" front, 1.6" rear
Progressive rate
front initial rate 125 (high rate not supplied), rear (probably linear) rate 320

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

done, thanks

Stereodude

This thread seems very devoid of information on the differences between the different struts for Maximas. Like which ones are the closest to stock, and that kinda stuff.

I'm getting near the point where I need to replace my struts, and I'd like some guidance on which struts to buy.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Spring rates:

Eibach Pro: Front: 139-188 lbs/in Rear: 194-295-346 lbs/in

Vogtland: Front: 134 - 194 lb/in (working range 170 - 194 lb/in) Rear: 205 – 377 lb/in (working range 220 - 270 lb/in) [source: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=13]

Tein H-tech: Front: 180 lbs/in Rear: 290 lbs/in

Tein S-tech: Front: 200 lbs/in Rear: 270 lbs/in

Progress Technology: Front : 165 lbs/in Rear : 250 lbs/in
(according to a different, unconfirmed source the rates could be 165-250 lbs/in in the front and 179-285 lbs/in in the rear.)

Canuck Motorsports: Drop 1.8" front, 1.6" rear
Progressive rate
front initial rate 125 (high rate not supplied), rear (probably linear) rate 320
[source: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...5&postcount=9]



H&R and Sprint refused to provide their spring rates.

Maxspeed Performance does not respond to my e-mails.

Note: Tein and Progress provided only one spring rate for their progressive springs.

Some useful shock info:

Tokico Illumina are designed for springs softer than 230 lbs/in in the frond and 315 lbs/in in the rear. (The technician also mentioned that these rates are approximate)

4th gen Tokico HP are designed for springs with 205 lbs/in front and 293 lbs/in rear spring rate. Information for 5th gen HPs in not available.
This is the graph of compression and rebound for VW Golf's OEM shocks and HPs designed for the same vehicle:

(IMO: since HPs give similar improvements for different vehicles, the difference between Maxima OEM and HP shocks should be similar as well.)

KYB compression/rebound settings: http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?...KybAgxSettings


Note: All information was provided directly by manufactures and I did not change it in any way.

Weight data: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...6&postcount=64

Stereodude

I found another thread on here that said the Tokico Blue's are the closest to the stock struts and that the KYB's are stiffer and give a harsher ride.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Stereodude, I personally would recommend getting Illuminas because they are designed to match our stock springs at their softest setting. Non adjustable shocks are stiffer and IMO should not be used with stock springs.

I do not believe that Blues can be used as OEM replacement shocks even though that was the first thing I was told when I called Tokico.

Stereodude

Is it possible to buy the OEM struts? If so, how much are they?

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Ya you can buy them. The best place is probably Dave B (888-254-6060) Not sure about the price though.

Stereodude

Hmm... If I have to buy 'em from a stealership, I'm sure they're not cheap. I'll have to call and check though.

I don't really want to put Monroe Sensa-Trac's on my Maxima, but from what you're saying it seems that none of the aftermarket struts are a good match except the Tokico Illuminas, and they're pretty pricey.

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

Klop, you could add Sprint springs to the list as well. They're website has no info on spring rates, but I know they make em for 4th and 5th Gens, as well as I30/35s.

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

How about buying some used, low miles, OEM struts from the 5th Gen Classifieds? I feel like I see OEM suspension for sale all the time there.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

good idea... they aren't as popular as say H&R, but they still exist. I'm ganna try to find out spring rates as well.

BTW, I think I'll also add the drop provided by spring manufacturers to make it more complete.

jasoner

I finally paid my 00 Maxima and decided to get rid of a persistant clunking noise from front end when going over bumps. This occurs at all speeds and mainly over abrupt smaller bumos. We of course changed the struts and mounts woth oem parts. This did not fix the problem. We then changed the inner and outer tie rod ends and the problem still persisted. Next we changed the passenger ball joint. What else could it be?!! This problem really sucks. I can't spend much more cash on this thing.
The sound os a light to heavy pinging or knocking noise from the passenger side. Seems to be from front end for sure..

Thanks for any suggestions. I am about to sell it if I can't fix it. I really love the car if not for this seemingly unsovable problem.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Check all your bushings for wear especially sway bar endlinks because they are known to go bad on our cars. If it's a "clicking" sound and you can hear it on smooth roads than it's probably your CV joint.

BTW, have you thought, of taking the car to a good mechanic?

jasoner

Thanks for your response. Sway bar end links are new to me. I have already replaced about everything else. I have had the Nissan dealer look at it. I also had the struts and tie rod ends replaced by someone who is a mechanic at a Nissan Dealer. Sway bar endlinks is a new idea to me. How do I test for those? Or can you?

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

Nissan dealer/mechanics aren't always "good mechanics".

naxray

I went through the same ordeal trying to find the noise in the front end of my 2K. Turned out to be the strut bearing and the rubber seats.

jasoner

After MANY OPINIONS FROM MANY mechanics, I finally found a Master Mechanic at a Nissan Dealership that figured out the problem. It was strangely enough the motor mount on top of the motor. The mount attatched on the fender well right next to the strut housing. Weird Weird weird. Sounded just like a strut problem or a loose part. After changing everything I jut had to come across the right experienced tech. Thanks for the input guys. I may not have recieved the diagnosis on this board but the kharma worked out well!!

cpsmaxima

iTrader: (3)

Thanks to all that put their input about their set ups. All the responces helped me decide what I wanted for my new suspension set up. Last week I ordered the following parts...

Tokico Illuminas Shocks
Tein H-Techs Springs
Stillen FSTB
Stillen RSB
Stillen Anti-Sway Bar
Brembo X-Drilled Rotors
Hawk Brake Pads

I should have all the parts by this Friday! I can't wait to see and feel the difference!

Thanks again to all of you
Chris

pedxing

I've had H&Rs and Illuminas on for a while now and they've been great. I put spacers on the rear (20mm H&R) to widen out the track and now get the occasional scraping when going over a large bump or a medium bump at 85+ mph. So this doesn't happen all the time, just 2 times a week. The culprit seems to be the bracket in the rear that attaches the bumper to the quarter panel. It sticks out into the wheel well about an inch.

Question: Has anyone experienced this rubbing, and what did you do?

I figure I can file off a good portion of the bracket without ill effects...or maybe bend it up. Would that be more dangerous than leaving it as is? Right now it just hits the tread. I'd hate for it to hit and possibly slice the sidewall causing a blowout at highway speeds. Going to a smaller spacer (say 15mm or 10mm) would have the same risk, it seems like. Stupid bracket.

Any ideas?

maximadriver198

Nice looking max. Did the cattman exhaust make it loud?

maximadriver198

I having some problems with the my 2000 max. I'm thinking that there could possibly be a problem related to the stage 1 nismo clutch that I put in 3 months ago. From time to time, I will have problems putting the car from neutral into first gear or from neutral to anygear for that matter. It just started a couple of days ago. It only happens after I first start it up. When it does happen, I have to turn the car off and move the shifter into first and then start the car. Any ideas from anyone? Or can anyone tell me if a worn clutch could be the cause of my problems?

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

maximadriver198, please delete both of your posts. They are not in any way related to this thread.

reliningmaxima

Good question , I have s tech's blues 19's 8.5 on mines and I'm thinking in adding spacers to eliminate the wheel gap for that flush look but I'm not sure what size spacers do I use in this case..... Dont want the same thing to happen to me(plus what size rims are you running)

Elfzors

Ok, I've read these posts forwards, backwards and sideways. I can't find anyone posting anything about certain springs being worse then others in terms of bottoming out. I have a '02 SE, and I wanna do a drop. Where I'm at a loss is I wanna have a system in the trunk (2 12's) and at times i may have back seat passengers. All that extra weight I'm afraid may bottom out on bumps or dips. Question is which springs are better for this not to happen? Also I wanna keep the stock ride quality as much as possible. Anyone have any suggestions? Much appreciated.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Eibach Pro would probably be your best bet. The drop is very mild (only 1" IIRC,) and the final spring rate in the rear is very high. So if you cut your bump stops you should not bottom out any more often than with your stock suspension.

Most people who have Eibach will also tell you that they like the ride quality.

BTW, did you see these threads?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=459517
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=471572
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=477358

emte

It sounds like what you want is image and adaptability, your more likly to get this with a set of adjustible shocks like the Illuminas in conjunction with TIEN's EDFC system ( http://www.tein.com/edfc.html ) over any set of springs you may choose.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Wow...Just wow...please do a little more research before further posting.

Elfzors

Thanks for the info and links. I really do appreciate it.

DFRMAX02SE

Need some help from all the experts out there...My rear suspension is bottoming out. I bought my 02 Max in Feb. of this year, it didn't take long to realize that the stock suspension was not up to par with my driving style. IT bottomed out over bumps and the body roll was almost dangerous. So I installed a RSB abd FSTB along with some Tokico Blues. This firmed things up, however the rear suspension stilled bottomed out. I read a TSB from Nissan on the problem and it stated to replace the rear springs. So instead of replacing just the rear springs with stockers I went with a set of H & Rs. Installed them yesterday, and have noticed that the problem is worses. Don't get me wrong the cars handling has been greatly improved and ride is, in my opinion better than stock, this problem is just annoying. Also I am afraid I will blow a strut. Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.