2000 max SE - running very rough and ALL warning lights on??
#1
2000 max SE - running very rough and ALL warning lights on??
2000 Maxima SE w. 83k miles..
Today I drove it to work without any problems, then when I get in it to go to lunch it starts very rough, and idles like a bucking horse, and I notice that all three yellow light are on the dash and they don't go away..
The lights are 'Check Engine' 'SLP On' and 'TCS Off' if I remember right.. and they DONT go away. First off the TCS feels like its on (rainy day and did a tire slip test which it seemed to pass) but occasionally the Check Engine light flashed and then went back to being solid...
It runs fairly smooth but with a weird noise when applying gas, and of course at any red light or stop it starts bucking like crazy. The idle stays up around 1k or more though so it's probably not about to clonk out, it just feels like it
Only problems or issues are that it just hit 3k for the oil change which I don't imagine could be the problem since it's always changed within 3500 miles and this would not be any acception, and since winter started I noticed a sound like a belt slipping when it's warming up.. its that loud SCREECHSCREECH that goes away after a few seconds. Somewhat worryingly I havent heard that sound in the past week, I figured it was a loose belt that I could replace on the weekend since it ran fine. Might be related??
Any advise appreciated. I have a service appt. for Thursday but would like some ideas about what it could be in the mean time.. thanks!
Today I drove it to work without any problems, then when I get in it to go to lunch it starts very rough, and idles like a bucking horse, and I notice that all three yellow light are on the dash and they don't go away..
The lights are 'Check Engine' 'SLP On' and 'TCS Off' if I remember right.. and they DONT go away. First off the TCS feels like its on (rainy day and did a tire slip test which it seemed to pass) but occasionally the Check Engine light flashed and then went back to being solid...
It runs fairly smooth but with a weird noise when applying gas, and of course at any red light or stop it starts bucking like crazy. The idle stays up around 1k or more though so it's probably not about to clonk out, it just feels like it
Only problems or issues are that it just hit 3k for the oil change which I don't imagine could be the problem since it's always changed within 3500 miles and this would not be any acception, and since winter started I noticed a sound like a belt slipping when it's warming up.. its that loud SCREECHSCREECH that goes away after a few seconds. Somewhat worryingly I havent heard that sound in the past week, I figured it was a loose belt that I could replace on the weekend since it ran fine. Might be related??
Any advise appreciated. I have a service appt. for Thursday but would like some ideas about what it could be in the mean time.. thanks!
#4
i had the same problem just a week ago wit my 2000 SE. It didnt run too rough though, but all three lights came on. At next start up, slip+TCS went away but CEL stayed on. I used a friends OBD II and got 1320(indicating coils). I cleared the code, and havent had a prob since. My mechanic told me its either the coils which is highly likely considering the complaints that are out there, or the crankshaft position sensor, so I'm, waiting till i get another code to pinpoint the problem, so I would also like a little light shed on this subject if poss. Thanks
#6
Originally Posted by jballa2KSE
i had the same problem just a week ago wit my 2000 SE. It didnt run too rough though, but all three lights came on. At next start up, slip+TCS went away but CEL stayed on. I used a friends OBD II and got 1320(indicating coils). I cleared the code, and havent had a prob since. My mechanic told me its either the coils which is highly likely considering the complaints that are out there, or the crankshaft position sensor, so I'm, waiting till i get another code to pinpoint the problem, so I would also like a little light shed on this subject if poss. Thanks
#11
Originally Posted by MaxBoost925
that'd be potentially harming the engine right?
Typically around here flashing SES light = Misfire.
But I'm sure you already knew that.
#13
Originally Posted by MaxBoost925
Oops , my point is flashing CEL is major dookey, means potential engine damage can occur.
As far as damage goes, get the code(s) checked ASAP.
#14
Forgot to mention, I replaced the coils recently, if it is misfire, should I be looking at replacing the plugs? No other lights come on... Anyone ever experienced problems with just plugs?
#15
Originally Posted by igzy
Forgot to mention, I replaced the coils recently, if it is misfire, should I be looking at replacing the plugs? No other lights come on... Anyone ever experienced problems with just plugs?
#16
Originally Posted by MaxBoost925
You know, IMO if you took the intake manifold off to replace the coils, you might as well change the plugs too.
I know, I tipicaly do that at the same time too, but the plugs only had 40K on them and are Iridium, so thought would be OK if I wait to replace them later on...
BTW, I have 2K so no manifold removal required
#20
Pay attnetion to details, me and the mdoerator the only ones who have posted in this thread that have a 5.5g and the first line as well as title of the original post clearly states 2000 ...
#21
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Pay attnetion to details, me and the mdoerator the only ones who have posted in this thread that have a 5.5g and the first line as well as title of the original post clearly states 2000 ...
Would you know if a bad plug would set SES light on? I know that coils would as P132X, or through SLIP and TCS on...
#23
A-ha, I think you helped me get on top of it! I had P0140 on for some time now that I tried to get rid of, even after putting in 2 new O2's so far and what not else replaced... Cool, so it is likely a plug in the rear as the sensor in the back is reporting it. I'll just replace them all now. Nice... THANK YOU!!! You da man
#26
Judging from your stats, your problem seems to be more complicated... but always start with teh cheapest fix first.
In this case, in order to rule out the plugs, get some cheap Cu's for less than 2$ a pop, replace them, and see if the problem persists...If you want to be extra cheap, only replace the ones in the engine bank in question.
In this case, in order to rule out the plugs, get some cheap Cu's for less than 2$ a pop, replace them, and see if the problem persists...If you want to be extra cheap, only replace the ones in the engine bank in question.
#27
Hey! Don't say that I was hoping to solve the problem and keep the Max as I really like the car. If I don't, I will need to say bye-bye to it as this has been driving me nuts for some time now...
I have a set of new in box Iridiums in the garage already. Will put those in and see how it goes...
I have a set of new in box Iridiums in the garage already. Will put those in and see how it goes...
#28
Thanks for the help fellas but I think I found a TSB that fits this prob..
http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/nissa..._III/15802.asp
Sounds exactly like what's going on except doesn't mention performance issues..
I just printed out a copy of the TSB page and will leave it w. the car when I drop it off tonight at the dealer.. then call them in the morning to see if they worked it out
http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/nissa..._III/15802.asp
Sounds exactly like what's going on except doesn't mention performance issues..
I just printed out a copy of the TSB page and will leave it w. the car when I drop it off tonight at the dealer.. then call them in the morning to see if they worked it out
#29
AHHH ok so the TSB thingy was already reset on a previous visit.. this thing is a misfire code so me and the tech both go at the same time "ignition coil."
Now I'm ordering ignition coils from Dave B and since the dealer would charge me 90 for the diagnostic anyway, I figure I'll have them replace them for me and just pay the extra 60 or so on top of that for labor and make sure it's done right. Then I can try to recoup some loss by keeping the old coils and doing Ebay (with full disclosures obviously!)
So uh. WHy am I posting all this. I dunno. another 500 bux down the drain. Mother Effing Ess.
Now I'm ordering ignition coils from Dave B and since the dealer would charge me 90 for the diagnostic anyway, I figure I'll have them replace them for me and just pay the extra 60 or so on top of that for labor and make sure it's done right. Then I can try to recoup some loss by keeping the old coils and doing Ebay (with full disclosures obviously!)
So uh. WHy am I posting all this. I dunno. another 500 bux down the drain. Mother Effing Ess.
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