5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
Im putting e.s. bushings for my front sway and end links this weekend. I just needed to know if anyone knows what the size of the stock front sway bar on a 5.5gen or what universal e.s. bushings to use. Also on the end links i'm going to replace the endlink bushings with e.s. ones. has anyone done this yet and if so which ones did you use. I just thought i'd ask so i can just go to the store and buy them without having to match up sizes through trial and error. Anyones help would greatly be appreciated.
thank you
__________________
"happiness is not around the corner it is the corner"
I can tell you for a fact that the FSB bushings are NOT universal...they have a specific ridge on them to fit the clasp on the maxima....they are not, for example, the same shape as the ones for my wife's Mazda...
__________________ 2000 Maxima SE (sold) - 2009 Subaru WRX Sedan - 1970 Triumph GT6+ - 2008 4Runner SportEdition
The final "mod list" for the maxima (or at least most of it) LINK
The current mod list for the WRXLINK
I've installed these recently, only ones so far besides the subframe bushings. I must say, for a car that doesn't have many suspension mods yet, these are GREAT. They definitely give the car a firmer "feel" when cornering, especially when doing crazy sh*t like swinging into a parking lot really fast
I got them from Cattman when they first came out. I think they're more expensive than the stockers, but not more than $20-30 I think for the set. However they are REALLY worth it.
They're pretty easy to install. You jack up the front, take off the front wheels, turn the steering wheel completely to the direction you're doing (that moves the inner tie-rod boot out of the way) and then unbolt the metal strap securing the swaybar to the subframe. It's easier if you then undo the other side before removing them. Once they're both unbolted, the sway bar can lift easily, and you can remove them.
Grease up the inside of the new bushings (use ALL the grease) and slide them on, the split part facing forward I think. There's a stop built into the swaybar to prevent you from pushing it too far inward. Make sure the part of the bushing that sticks out goes downward (it fits into a slot in the subframe I think). After they're both on, press it down and reinstall the mounting straps. The strap will sit a good centimeter or so up above the subframe so you'll have to squish it back down by tightening the bolts back and forth evenly until it's sitting level and you can torque them down. (I don't think I torqued mine, I just tightened it pretty firmly with a 1/2"-drive ratchet)
I think I noticed a mild amount of extra 'harshness' in bumps after the install but I've either become used to it, or it's gone away. Either way, the confident and "immediate" steering response (think the car has less side-to-side tilt/play when you make a steering manuever) you get out of these make it totally worth all the money and effort.
i've had the Lower Control Arm and Rear Trailin Arm bushings just sitting here for the past year. i need to grow the cojones to do the job.
FSB replacement is a joke. i did it for someone a few months back. did the motor mount and FSB bushings in 2 hours. that included the trip to the machine shop to press the old motor mount bushings out.
as spirillis said, it's noticable when taking sharp turns. a combination of all the bushings would be extremely noticable when you're turning and you hit a small bump. under normal circumstances, your car would skip around a bit. in this case, they hold onto their path. good luck!
edit: suspension.com seems to have an up to date list with some good prices.
Cool. I need to do the LCA/RTA bushings too. I also need to do the motor mounts, although I'm almost ready with those (just too lazy to go in the garage and work on it after all the clutch work I did the other week).
I'd imagine the "solid" feel you get with the motor mounts is somewhat analogous to the "solid" feel you get with the FSB bushings--I recall before, when taking a quick turn, the car would move, but then soon after I'd feel a mild side-to-side "play" in the suspension which made fast turns feel somewhat sloppy. This eliminates that and makes the car follow its track without excess feedback.
i'll be honest. i prolly never felt the real difference as i've been through 3-4 diff. suspension setups that i never got a feel for what the FSB/MM did. i do know that on takeoff's, the car would lag for a split millisecond and go. with the MM inserts, it seems to pick up immediately. the other good thing which not many have noticed is that the inserts are centered, where as the OEM are a bit lower, thus lowering the motor about 1/2". this is good for guys with FSTB's that bang the manifold. totally clears it.
Im doing mine as soon as I get back from Australia.
Polo, did not know you could get bushings for the crossbrace... is it worth getting these?
i really have no clue...i put everything together in 1 sitting, so i dont' know which affected which. plus, all my bushings were free, so i didn't care.
which bushings would i notice a dramatic differences? i want to replace all my bushings on the car. im at 150,000km. does es suspension make the best bushings for our cars?
Linear Mode
