02-03 Bose 6CD changer Audio cutout fix!!
#44
After Market Replacement for Bose HU?
Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket unit for a 2002 Max SE? It does not have the climate control system, just the crappy HU from Clarion/Bose. I've had to replace it three times and am sick of it cutting out on CDs.
Thanks
Thanks
#45
Ok, this make me sound pretty bad, but when it comes to electronics and working with my hand on small parts, umm, I am really really bad.
In short, Is anyone willing to let me pay them to fix my HU? ('02 max bose gle)
Im in the allentown/bethlehem PA area. Will ship or drop off/meet if needed.
I replaced my hu with a aftermarket and had my car broken into for it....so back to the blose which cuts out.
PM or reply if interested.
Thanks
In short, Is anyone willing to let me pay them to fix my HU? ('02 max bose gle)
Im in the allentown/bethlehem PA area. Will ship or drop off/meet if needed.
I replaced my hu with a aftermarket and had my car broken into for it....so back to the blose which cuts out.
PM or reply if interested.
Thanks
#46
For those of you who have done this, about how long did it take you? I'm trying to determine how much time I need to block off in order to get this done.
By the way, thanks for the amazing write up. My local Nissan dealer wanted several hundred dollars to fix this problem.
By the way, thanks for the amazing write up. My local Nissan dealer wanted several hundred dollars to fix this problem.
#49
Cable part#
I just talked to a techsupport guy today at Clarion and I have ordered the cable.
This is the part#816256310
He said that it replace an old #816256300 (must be our famous flakey cable)
You can go to Clarion's site which will just take you to (http://www.pacparts.com for the west US or http://www.hermanelectronics.com/OemSearch.asp for the east US)
My model is CR070 (on casette door) or PN2432DA (on sticker) on a Nov02 Max.
I will post to let you guys know, "hopefully" this is the right cable.
btw Thanks to Chris.s, without his guide I would be sending my unit to Nissan or some online place to get robbed.
I have taken Chris.s' work a step further with a Dremel in preperation for the new cable that is coming... I think all the pressure on the cable from being rolled up in the tight cage of the unit has alot to do with the premature failures.
Here are the pics of the mod http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/Index.html
I agree with Wade, Chris.s' guide should be stickied.
Chris, if you want to udate your guide with the part # I think that would round it out as a complete DIY.
This is the part#816256310
He said that it replace an old #816256300 (must be our famous flakey cable)
You can go to Clarion's site which will just take you to (http://www.pacparts.com for the west US or http://www.hermanelectronics.com/OemSearch.asp for the east US)
My model is CR070 (on casette door) or PN2432DA (on sticker) on a Nov02 Max.
I will post to let you guys know, "hopefully" this is the right cable.
btw Thanks to Chris.s, without his guide I would be sending my unit to Nissan or some online place to get robbed.
I have taken Chris.s' work a step further with a Dremel in preperation for the new cable that is coming... I think all the pressure on the cable from being rolled up in the tight cage of the unit has alot to do with the premature failures.
Here are the pics of the mod http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/Index.html
I agree with Wade, Chris.s' guide should be stickied.
Chris, if you want to udate your guide with the part # I think that would round it out as a complete DIY.
#51
Grrreat! I just check with the link with your part number, but the part is not available now...
Did you call clarion at 800-347-8667 and they were willing to talk to you about OEM model parts?
Can you feel/tell the significant difference between the old cable and the new one?
Thanks for your great info.
Did you call clarion at 800-347-8667 and they were willing to talk to you about OEM model parts?
Can you feel/tell the significant difference between the old cable and the new one?
Thanks for your great info.
#52
Originally Posted by mightima
Grrreat! I just check with the link with your part number, but the part is not available now...
Did you call clarion at 800-347-8667 and they were willing to talk to you about OEM model parts?
Thanks for your great info.
Did you call clarion at 800-347-8667 and they were willing to talk to you about OEM model parts?
Thanks for your great info.
Herman has it for 1.58, order it from there...
#53
vastmax: No I didn't ask about the sub fix.
mightima: Yes I did call the 800-347-8667 and press 1 (factory repair status).
I just told them I was looking for a part for an OEM Head Unit, gave him my info and in no time we were talking through parts locations and stuff.
I haven't received the cable yet, but I doubt it will be a noticable difference.
You guys should let me be the guinea pig and make sure it is the right cable and it works before you order one.
I will post as soon as I get it and install it (should be this weekend)
mightima: Yes I did call the 800-347-8667 and press 1 (factory repair status).
I just told them I was looking for a part for an OEM Head Unit, gave him my info and in no time we were talking through parts locations and stuff.
I haven't received the cable yet, but I doubt it will be a noticable difference.
You guys should let me be the guinea pig and make sure it is the right cable and it works before you order one.
I will post as soon as I get it and install it (should be this weekend)
#56
Originally Posted by 02SilverMax
I just talked to a techsupport guy today at Clarion and I have ordered the cable.
This is the part#816256310
He said that it replace an old #816256300 (must be our famous flakey cable)
You can go to Clarion's site which will just take you to (http://www.pacparts.com for the west US or http://www.hermanelectronics.com/OemSearch.asp for the east US)
My model is CR070 (on casette door) or PN2432DA (on sticker) on a Nov02 Max.
I will post to let you guys know, "hopefully" this is the right cable.
btw Thanks to Chris.s, without his guide I would be sending my unit to Nissan or some online place to get robbed.
I have taken Chris.s' work a step further with a Dremel in preperation for the new cable that is coming... I think all the pressure on the cable from being rolled up in the tight cage of the unit has alot to do with the premature failures.
Here are the pics of the mod http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/Index.html
I agree with Wade, Chris.s' guide should be stickied.
Chris, if you want to udate your guide with the part # I think that would round it out as a complete DIY.
This is the part#816256310
He said that it replace an old #816256300 (must be our famous flakey cable)
You can go to Clarion's site which will just take you to (http://www.pacparts.com for the west US or http://www.hermanelectronics.com/OemSearch.asp for the east US)
My model is CR070 (on casette door) or PN2432DA (on sticker) on a Nov02 Max.
I will post to let you guys know, "hopefully" this is the right cable.
btw Thanks to Chris.s, without his guide I would be sending my unit to Nissan or some online place to get robbed.
I have taken Chris.s' work a step further with a Dremel in preperation for the new cable that is coming... I think all the pressure on the cable from being rolled up in the tight cage of the unit has alot to do with the premature failures.
Here are the pics of the mod http://home.comcast.net/~earevalos/Index.html
I agree with Wade, Chris.s' guide should be stickied.
Chris, if you want to udate your guide with the part # I think that would round it out as a complete DIY.
Any updates? Wondering if the replacement cable was the correct one.
#59
Originally Posted by vastmax
^^this is great news!! Did you by any chance ask him about a bose sub fix?
#61
What's the difference?
I think it is more important to know if the replacement part has been strengthen in any aspect. I believe once we put on this replacement part, it'll surely work. But will it be just like re-seating the original part or it's a permanent solution...?
I tried to call in, but either no one pick up the phone, or they have no access to both new and old parts to compare. If any of you guys can provide such info, that would be great help.
Thanks in advance.
I tried to call in, but either no one pick up the phone, or they have no access to both new and old parts to compare. If any of you guys can provide such info, that would be great help.
Thanks in advance.
#62
Originally Posted by 02SilverMax
vastmax: No I didn't ask about the sub fix.
mightima: Yes I did call the 800-347-8667 and press 1 (factory repair status).
I just told them I was looking for a part for an OEM Head Unit, gave him my info and in no time we were talking through parts locations and stuff.
I haven't received the cable yet, but I doubt it will be a noticable difference.
You guys should let me be the guinea pig and make sure it is the right cable and it works before you order one.
I will post as soon as I get it and install it (should be this weekend)
mightima: Yes I did call the 800-347-8667 and press 1 (factory repair status).
I just told them I was looking for a part for an OEM Head Unit, gave him my info and in no time we were talking through parts locations and stuff.
I haven't received the cable yet, but I doubt it will be a noticable difference.
You guys should let me be the guinea pig and make sure it is the right cable and it works before you order one.
I will post as soon as I get it and install it (should be this weekend)
Thanx in advance.
I find that whenever it cuts out switching CD and then back to orig one i was playing fixes it for a few days haha
#65
I just did this fix and it worked great. I've had the fading in and out since just after I bought the car 2 years ago. I finaly quit using it because both sides started fading and eventualy quit all together. Now it works great. At least we'll see if it lasts but it should.
It wasn't that hard of a job. Just make sure you have a quality screwdriver set with different sizes including small ones. There are a lot of very small screws thar are very tight. It's easy to strip the heads unless you have the right size and shape philips head.
Thanks for posting this.
It wasn't that hard of a job. Just make sure you have a quality screwdriver set with different sizes including small ones. There are a lot of very small screws thar are very tight. It's easy to strip the heads unless you have the right size and shape philips head.
Thanks for posting this.
#68
Just curious to know if anyone's speakers would cut out when using the radio? I have also noticed that its usually the drivers side of the car that cuts out on most. Both me and my fathers max's would cut out on the left side. I was also told not to used burnt cd's that had those thin paper covers on them, cause it would make the cds thicker and might mess up the laser or something like that.
#69
For those not interested in tackling this fix, I perform the left side speaker cut-out fix for '02-'03 Bose 6CD for $179 with a guaranteed turnaround of 2 days. I offer free return shipping via USPS, insurance and delivery confirmation included. For an extra $15, I install a new ribbon cable rather than reseating the existing cable. For comparison, Nissan charges around $450 for the same service with guaranteed turnaround time of 8 weeks. Car Stereo Help offers the service for $295 with a turnaround time of 2-8 working days, sometimes longer depending on part availability. Feel free to PM me for details.
For those who want to tackle this on their own, this is a great writeup - Great work Chris.s! Be forewarned that a few screws that need to be removed aren't outlined and you need a good toolkit to do this right:
- A wide variety of small screwdrivers - I have a huge assortment and still didn't have all I needed. Many different screw sizes, all smaller than the drivers many typically have.
- A good soldering iron and some basic skills in soldering
- Needle nose pliers
- Good organization - when completely disassembled you have a pile of around 50 screws, 4 springs, 4 liquid filled shock absorbers, and your Radio/HVAC is in about 10 separate pieces. I suggest sitting screws in separate piles to keep track of which step they're associated with. If you lump them all together in one cup it'll be a mess figuring out what screw to use.
- Be very careful removing the vents - if you use the pry method you can mar your dash/vents if you're not careful. Use a good towel, or if you're strong enough, just grab the vents at the top and pull up until the clips brake loose.
- Slot out a good 4 hours to complete the work. This assumes a moderate pace with no big hangups along the way (stripped screws for instance).
- If your screwdriver doesn't quite fit, don't try to make it work. You'll end up stripping the screw, drilling it out, and hunting at Home Depot for some decent replacement. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on a wide array of screwdrivers/bits.
- Carefully reassemble in the exact reverse order. Don't wing it or you'll end up having to backtrack when you realize you have an extra part or two.
For those who want to tackle this on their own, this is a great writeup - Great work Chris.s! Be forewarned that a few screws that need to be removed aren't outlined and you need a good toolkit to do this right:
- A wide variety of small screwdrivers - I have a huge assortment and still didn't have all I needed. Many different screw sizes, all smaller than the drivers many typically have.
- A good soldering iron and some basic skills in soldering
- Needle nose pliers
- Good organization - when completely disassembled you have a pile of around 50 screws, 4 springs, 4 liquid filled shock absorbers, and your Radio/HVAC is in about 10 separate pieces. I suggest sitting screws in separate piles to keep track of which step they're associated with. If you lump them all together in one cup it'll be a mess figuring out what screw to use.
- Be very careful removing the vents - if you use the pry method you can mar your dash/vents if you're not careful. Use a good towel, or if you're strong enough, just grab the vents at the top and pull up until the clips brake loose.
- Slot out a good 4 hours to complete the work. This assumes a moderate pace with no big hangups along the way (stripped screws for instance).
- If your screwdriver doesn't quite fit, don't try to make it work. You'll end up stripping the screw, drilling it out, and hunting at Home Depot for some decent replacement. Do yourself a favor and spend the money on a wide array of screwdrivers/bits.
- Carefully reassemble in the exact reverse order. Don't wing it or you'll end up having to backtrack when you realize you have an extra part or two.
#73
Thanks to Chris.s for the useful instructions. I did this to my car last night. I do lots of exploratory disassemblies but I would never have completed this without your guide! I hope you won't mind if I add the following alternative suggestions...
When you get down to the last circuit board, the one on the left of the CD changer that has two soldered stakes, you do not need to unsolder the stakes and remove the springs from that side. The steel sub-frame is mounted by two screws at the bottom and one on the rear. Remove those and the whole assembly lifts out, springs and dampers attached - you will have unobstructed access to both connectors. To re-insert the screws at the bottom of the frame, put the screws upside-down on the head of a small Philips screwdriver and guide them in while holding the unit upside-down, or use a magnetic screwdriver. It is not the easiest in the world but it is faster and less hassle than the unsoldering and fooling with the springs and the rubber dampers.
The dampers on the right side are easiest to handle if you remove the thin steel clamps and then push the damper through the large hole in the frame. If you remove the small support post from the inside of the damper, it is a pain to get back in.
Also I put a piece of Scotch frosted tape on the plastic side of the cable ends, using a razor blade to trim it exactly to the dimensions of the plastic stiffener. Hopefully this will add a little bit of thickness and prolong the fix. I hadn't read to the end of this thread about the new cable that is available but maybe I'll order one of those just to be ready.
My car is an early-production 2003. I bought it in August of 2002; the left channel of the CD player went out when it was 2 years old, in summer of 2004. They replaced it with another CR070-model - with a "remanufactured" sticker, as I discovered last night. So that one lasted 2 1/2 years, but the car isn't under warranty any more! It worked when I put it back in the dashboard last night.
When you get down to the last circuit board, the one on the left of the CD changer that has two soldered stakes, you do not need to unsolder the stakes and remove the springs from that side. The steel sub-frame is mounted by two screws at the bottom and one on the rear. Remove those and the whole assembly lifts out, springs and dampers attached - you will have unobstructed access to both connectors. To re-insert the screws at the bottom of the frame, put the screws upside-down on the head of a small Philips screwdriver and guide them in while holding the unit upside-down, or use a magnetic screwdriver. It is not the easiest in the world but it is faster and less hassle than the unsoldering and fooling with the springs and the rubber dampers.
The dampers on the right side are easiest to handle if you remove the thin steel clamps and then push the damper through the large hole in the frame. If you remove the small support post from the inside of the damper, it is a pain to get back in.
Also I put a piece of Scotch frosted tape on the plastic side of the cable ends, using a razor blade to trim it exactly to the dimensions of the plastic stiffener. Hopefully this will add a little bit of thickness and prolong the fix. I hadn't read to the end of this thread about the new cable that is available but maybe I'll order one of those just to be ready.
My car is an early-production 2003. I bought it in August of 2002; the left channel of the CD player went out when it was 2 years old, in summer of 2004. They replaced it with another CR070-model - with a "remanufactured" sticker, as I discovered last night. So that one lasted 2 1/2 years, but the car isn't under warranty any more! It worked when I put it back in the dashboard last night.
#74
Originally Posted by mightima
Housecor, are you using new part listing by chris.s? Is the quality of the cable really make a difference? Thanks.
#75
I have a BOSE 6 CD changer and the number 1 button does not work [out of six numbered buttons]. Is there a fix for a nonfunctional button? Also my front and rear driver side speakers stopped working totally, do you think that is head unit related? They both used to work and seemed to cut off at the same time. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
#76
Originally Posted by gfxhil
I have a BOSE 6 CD changer and the number 1 button does not work [out of six numbered buttons]. Is there a fix for a nonfunctional button? Also my front and rear driver side speakers stopped working totally, do you think that is head unit related? They both used to work and seemed to cut off at the same time. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
The drivers side speakers cutting out is what this fix is for. While it's apart you could look at the button.
#78
Originally Posted by gfxhil
I have a BOSE 6 CD changer and the number 1 button does not work [out of six numbered buttons]. Is there a fix for a nonfunctional button? Also my front and rear driver side speakers stopped working totally, do you think that is head unit related? They both used to work and seemed to cut off at the same time. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
#79
Originally Posted by gfxhil
cutting out totally? or just for a short period?
I guess it could just cut out totaly and not come back too. What happened to mine is typical though.
#80
Originally Posted by housecor
Personally, I'd just leave button 1 as is to avoid the risk - you can still access all CD's/presets using the steering wheel controls.